2 replies to this topic

[Djurre]

Hi there,

Since it is my first post here: hi everybody, been lurking and drewling over other peeps' cabs here, and after a
bargain deal on 10 siemens contactors, I decided to build my own cab.

I have an IT background, but only in software, so I only know the very basic of electronics setup.
I've read quitte a bit of posts here and on the Hyperspin forum and information and the Pinball Electrical 101 guide and I still have a few questions i hope someone can answer. (terrified that I will smell the Magic Smoke)

 

I think I go with the LedWiz32 & Ipac2 route, since this looks like the proven way with configuration of the tables so it seems. LedWiz's are more expensive then gold in Europe so it seems so I try to go the safe way and use fuses and relays where and when required.

 

I'm not associated with the stores mentioned in the links, but I post the links to make things more clear. A lot of questions here so I'll try to break it up in sections:

RELAY

I've seen builds where a relay board is used instead of the "finder" relays. This seems to be an attractive

option, considering the price difference. I found this board at an Chinese webstore:

http://www.dx.com/nl...46#.VMUhTi4kfzJ

- Input voltage: 24V
- High level trigger, trigger voltage 24V, trigger current need more than 5mA
- VCC: Positive pole input
- GND: Negative pole input
- IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4, IN5, IN6, IN7, IN8 Control ports, high level relay pull-in, low level relay release
- COM: Control circuit grounding, shortly connected with GND

Would this be suited to use with my Siemens 3RT10151BB41 24v contactors? If yes, anyone knows how to wire this?

Would the control ports be needed / wired?

LED

I understand that resistors are necessary to prevent damage to the LedWiz.

The RGB Leds I want to purchase is a 3x1W, 350 mA led with a forward voltage of 2.5v ® and 3.8v (g&b).

If I connect this to a 12v power source the resistor, according to the led calculator should be (33Ohm, 4W)

( http://led.linear1.o...2;VF=2.5;ID=350 ) Did I calculate this correct and would a 33k 4W resistor do
the job?

Link to the RGB Led:

http://www.leds-buy....-led-star.html#

FUSE

Finally, there are a lot of types of fuses. From what I can see from other peoples cabs, most of you use those
tube fuses. Are they glass or ceramic? And does size matter? (in this case   ) there are 20, 25, 30 and 32mm
fuses.

Sorry in advance for stupid questions but my knowledge of electronics is limited to common sense, and I just want
to be sure.

 

Thanks in advance,

Djurre





 

[gamefixer]

Relay boards - You dont need them in front of the LED's. While its a good idea to use them in front of the contactors and and other high current devices to isolate the LEDWiz I use Zeb's booster boards instead.

 

http://www.zebsboard...-booster-detail

 

The relays are just controlled switches. The side with all the screw terminals would be your "output" and the side with the pins would be your "input." Typical way to wire them is to tie the common on the output side to ground and the normally open to the dhardware you want to drive (your contactors). I removed the relay boards from my cabinet after I started getting relay chatter on my shaker motors drive relay. Even though the relay claimed to have a 10AMP rating it couldn't handle the 2AMP current draw from my shaker and the contacts within the relay pitted. After some discussion with Zeb he recommended that I get rid of the relay boards and drive the devices directly from his booster board. 

 

LEDs - Your resistor calculations sound right. Remember to use 330 ohm not 330k ohm, theres a HUGE difference there. You might even consider going higher at maybe 560 ohms or 470 ohms. Those LED's are pretty bright and at 330 ohms they would probably be REALLY bright. Test the different resistances to see what you like. I went higher on mine.

 

Fuses - Whatever type and physical size fuse that works for you is best. Here in the states the glass tube fuses are abundant so thats what we use for the most part. You probably dont need to fuse the LED drives but if you want to fuse them at 500ma fast acting. FYI, the max output from the LEDwiz is 500ma. A contactor would probably be good with a 1amp slo blo.

 

Diodes - DONT forget to add diodes to the hardware toys on the outputs of whatever you decide to use (booster board or relay board). I was getting random VP crashes when I wired my contactors up with no diodes. Use a 1N4007 or equivalent diode and put the banded side of the diode on the SUPPLY VOLTAGE side of your device. If you hook the diode up backwards it will short upon first use and you may see the magic smoke you dread.

 

Have fun with the cab!

[Djurre]

Relay boards - You dont need them in front of the LED's. While its a good idea to use them in front of the contactors and and other high current devices to isolate the LEDWiz I use Zeb's booster boards instead.

 

http://www.zebsboard...-booster-detail

 

The relays are just controlled switches. The side with all the screw terminals would be your "output" and the side with the pins would be your "input." Typical way to wire them is to tie the common on the output side to ground and the normally open to the dhardware you want to drive (your contactors). I removed the relay boards from my cabinet after I started getting relay chatter on my shaker motors drive relay. Even though the relay claimed to have a 10AMP rating it couldn't handle the 2AMP current draw from my shaker and the contacts within the relay pitted. After some discussion with Zeb he recommended that I get rid of the relay boards and drive the devices directly from his booster board. 

 

LEDs - Your resistor calculations sound right. Remember to use 330 ohm not 330k ohm, theres a HUGE difference there. You might even consider going higher at maybe 560 ohms or 470 ohms. Those LED's are pretty bright and at 330 ohms they would probably be REALLY bright. Test the different resistances to see what you like. I went higher on mine.

 

Fuses - Whatever type and physical size fuse that works for you is best. Here in the states the glass tube fuses are abundant so thats what we use for the most part. You probably dont need to fuse the LED drives but if you want to fuse them at 500ma fast acting. FYI, the max output from the LEDwiz is 500ma. A contactor would probably be good with a 1amp slo blo.

 

Diodes - DONT forget to add diodes to the hardware toys on the outputs of whatever you decide to use (booster board or relay board). I was getting random VP crashes when I wired my contactors up with no diodes. Use a 1N4007 or equivalent diode and put the banded side of the diode on the SUPPLY VOLTAGE side of your device. If you hook the diode up backwards it will short upon first use and you may see the magic smoke you dread.

 

Have fun with the cab!

 

Thanks for the swift reply. The calculation I did gave me 33 (thirty three) Ohm, not 330 (threehundred and thirty) Ohm. I think no space between the number and the Ohm must have confused you, but just checking to be sure. I think the k in 22k for example stands for 'kilo'? Like 22k Ohm stands for 22000 omhs?

 

For now I won't be using knockers / shakers / solenoids, but just 8 contactors and 10 LED's. So I hope with just the contactors I won't run into problems with relay chatter etc.

 

To keep the price down I think I won't go with the Zeb solutions (altho it's very tempting) since shipping, customs and the boards themselfs aren't cheap. This is going to be a 'test' project to learn (going for a mini-ish pin). If there is going to be a next build, I might go all-out.