71 replies to this topic

[rasm]

As intro and to allow a fast navigation I'll provide some pics of my current status and a list of contents here within the opening post.
 
Current status
 

 

 

 
List of chapters

• Dreaming
• How to get inexpensive progress?
• Wood working
• Screws and glue
• A really small power supply
• Case top
• Start painting
• Service buttons
• Nudging
• My buttons arrived
• A black box
• Some wires and a first game
• Making an order and playing around
• LEDWiz
• Resistors and some heat sinks
• Crocheting
• Flasher
• First force feedback
• Plunger
• A disappointing bulb replacement
• Next level
• A clean up
• New parts arrived, an important cab builder tool
• Some cabinet makeup
• A shaker - "let's get ready to rumble"
• A relay board for more fancy toys
• A gear motor and a bumper surprise

---
 
Soooo, while I'am waiting for a package with some new toys it's time to start my build thread. I hope to support you with my experiences as a complete newbie in virtual pinball, electronics and wood working ;-). Please learn from my faults.
 
Chapter I - Dreaming
For many years I was passionate interssted in virtual reality, big screen multitouch devices and interactive art installations. On the other hand I really love to play pinball, but unfortunately it is hard to find some pins in my city. To get an millionair to be able to buy a couple of nice pins is in a status like "work in progress", but currently I have to spend my money for living, food, a wife and my daughter instead of spending thousands of euros in pinball hardware.
On a evening after some beer I got an really good idea - what is about a virtual pinball simulation? A digital one, a big screen, force feedback and a lot of tables that would be playable. After a few minutes I found these community :-) firstly I was disapointed that somebody else had this great idea before myself, but than I got stuck in reading posts of all you guys and start dreaming in building my own virtual pinball table...
 
Ahhhh... hmmmm...
 
On the next days I created several shopping lists and it really hurts to realize that a virtual pin isn't cheaper than a real one :-(. For everybody that is falling in a idea like that: The costs can be splitted in the following categories:

•  
• You need a cabinet. Yea, it's a possible option to get some wood in a local store, but than you would need collect a wide range of real pinball parts to round up your build like pinball legs, an unbelievable expensive lockdown bar, a coin door, plunger, buttons, glas, rails, and and and... In the end you would end up with something about 800 euros. Alternatively you could try to find an empty cabinet, but if you want to find one as a widebody variant than you will notice soon that there isn't a big amount of offers. To buy a pinball that is alive isn't an option for me, because a working one (or almost working one) has to keep alive.
• You need a set of gamers hardware (pc). That means a fast processor, a related mainboard, RAM, an SSD, power supply and the most expensive part: a set of modern graphic cards to keep everything running smoothly on three screens. Alternatively you could work with one fat Geforce card, but than you would have to order a real DMD (means dot matrix display) and related controls and this is definetly not a cheaper (but probably nicer) option.
• You need a set of electronics. Boards like IPac or LEDWiz that are not easy to order or really expensive if you live outside the united states (shipping, tax). Contactors, LEDs, pinball buttons (leaf switches), a tilt/nudge solution, a digital (better analog) plunger solution, etc.
• You need a set of displays. What I found is that 46" displays is the biggest option suitable for widebody cabinet playfields. You need another TV for your backglass and a third one for a DMD replacement.

Hoooo f***! How to explain my wife that I want to spend several thousand bucks for a great thing that she call toy. Furthermore I am not sure if I own enough skillz to build something like Chris, Maxsinner, Zeb or all other great community members in this forum. There is a risk to end up in a mountain of expensive hardware, wood and pinball parts without a running result.
 
I am a fan of getting things running step-by-step - iteratively - reaching a milestone that makes fun before working on a next one. So I thought about an option to try this hobby before borrow money ;-).
 
After thinking, dreaming, thinking, crying, dreaming, thinking, it was time to do something!
 
So I installed vp and downloaded my first table. After some error messages that ROMs are missing I downloaded every ROM that I could find related to the table and my first virtual pinball setup was up and running:

 
I used only hardware that already exist. An outdated thick LCD from our guest room, a small cheap LCD that my wife bought used for 20 euros (I had no idea what to do with the screen until this evening), my working notebook, a logitech 2.1 PC speaker/subwoofer set.
 
Coming soon: Chapter 2 - How to get inexpensive progress?

Edited by rasm, 15 December 2015 - 10:22 PM.

[JMG]

hey hey,

greetings fellow german.

inexpensive progress? haha. i spent almost 2000eur on my cab, but it is sooooooooo worth it.

 

to get you started, i have a couple of places where i bought the stuff for my own widebody cabinet build:

http://www.arcadeshop.de/index.php for buttons, ipac and stuff

http://www.pinballce...language=german for legs, lockdown bar etc.

 

if you want to save yourself a lot of work if you dont have a router, you can easily fit a 42'' tv into a widebody cab. that's what i did...

also: consider using mdf or plywood. i made my cabinet out of mdf which is very nice to work with but also much heavier...

 

also very important: be sure to hook your girlfriend/wife on playing pinball. if she has fun with it - like mine - then you're good to spend as much money/time as you need.

Edited by JMG, 15 May 2014 - 10:18 AM.

[mkl66]

Hi there,

 

nice to see another german building his own cabinet.

I'am also in the process of building. The woodworking is almost done ( just need to build the backbox).

Now the thrilling part of building has come: Wire all things together and get it to work.

As an addition I can recomend you another shop where I bought my Pinball legs and siderails: www.bestofpinball.de

 

best regards

Martin

[rasm]

Hey, great to meet some German guys here :-)... and thx for ya hints...

 

Chapter 2 - How to get inexpensive progress?

 

After a lot of disapointing calculations and a review of my bank account I thought that it is important to verify that I keep this great hobby alive before spending too much money. How to do that?

I decided to follow a list of milestones to come closer to my dream step by step:

• Milestone I: An IPac, a set of buttons and some wood around this stuff. :-)
• Milestone II: Simply get button light on by adding a power supply.
• Milestone III: If I really reach it, it should be okay to spend some money in a LEDWiz as next key komponent to get blinking buttons.
• Milestone IV: It's time for force feedback by ordering first contactors.
• Milestone V: Intergation of a flasher lightshow.
• Milestone VI: More contactors.
• Milestone VII: A Knocker.
• Milestone VIII: A shaker.
• Milestone IX: A gear motor.
• Milestone X: Maybe a plunger and/or nudging toys.
• Than it's time to switch my wooden draft to a real cabinet, rewire everything and create mor emilestones to get fitting screens and hardware :-).

Okay... rock on. I ordered my button set at virtuapin (because I really want their kind of leaf buttons that I saw in so many cabinets) and an IPac from arcadeshop. My next tasks was to plan a wooden case. I decided to build something similar to the nanotech pinball wizard - I also checked to buy one, but I don't found a used one for an adequate price.

 

So my first prototype will be a wooden case that I can put in front of a lying LCD TV as play field. I planned a width of a widebody cabinet, less height, but hopefully big enough to store at least all important toys. In case of the less height a coin door doesn't make sense, but anyway I want to open the box to use service buttons (like in a real pinball... again dreaming) and sure I have to mount my stuff inside step by step. So I planned to open the top that shall be arranged in an agel of 6° ;-).

 

Here a list of parts to go shopping in my local hardware store. I chose 19mm MDF, because shall be easier to work with it as with Plywood and I am not a well skilled wood-worker (unfortunately MDF weight a lot).

 

 

And this is the result of my shopping tour.

 

 

And a first try how it could look like after adding glue and screws.

 

 

 

Coming soon: Chapter 3 - Wood working

Edited by rasm, 15 May 2014 - 11:09 PM.

[Jaggy]

Cool, this seems to be the German Builders Topic.

 

I am almost finished with my build. Just have to add some last bits and pieces before cleaning up the cables etc.

I got some parts from

and of course Conrad for relays, knocker, nudge/tilt sensors and some other small stuff.

 

Enjoy the planning and building

[rasm]

Hi Jaggy, nice to meet you.

 

Cool, this seems to be the German Builders Topic.

 

I am almost finished with my build. Just have to add some last bits and pieces before cleaning up the cables etc.

I got some parts from

 

and of course Conrad for relays, knocker, nudge/tilt sensors and some other small stuff.

 

Enjoy the planning and building

 

Yea it looks like the potato thread ;-). I also ordered some smaller parts from Conrad.

 

 

Chapter 3: Wood working

 

While I am waiting for my button shipping from US I had enough time to start wood working. Firtsly I drilled two holes to get air inside my build. Because I read so much stories about heat, I will ensure an air flow from front bottom to the backside.

 

 

Ohhh, I was so proud about my first two holes and couldn't wait to mount first parts: air filters and case feeds.

 

 

Hmmm, one more dificult part would be the first sanding job. Let's do some other stuff first like the connection panel.

 

 

I only have a small hole saw that I used to make rounded corners and an approximation to the 12cm fan hole. Oh sh**, I didn't know that it takes some time to make a single hole with cheap tools. Don't underestimate a task like this. I used my jig saw to cut the rest. Yet my experience on doing such stuff is:

1. Stop drilling from time to time and reject cut wood manually with a screwdriver, so that you don't have to shell it completly from inside ya saw extension.
2. Use moderate RPM and less pressure. Otherwise your wood will start to smell like a curled strip of smoked dogfish (in case of burned wood).
3. You can create acceptable results with a jig saw if you have low expectations and if you're able to stay cool and relaxed while a half of your body is under heavy vibrations and you start sweating. Lessons learned: a cheap jig saw could be used as cheap alternative to a real shaker motor kit.
4. If you follow my ambitious approach you will get interesting trash pieces that looks like you're a wood working pro.

 

 

 

 

I don't have a nice set of tools (only some cheap stuff to ensure being a real husband - or at least to look like). So I decided again to sand the top edges later. So I started to adjust the side parts first. I want the sides cut in an angel of 6 degrees. Unfortunately I don't own a buzz saw, but it was time to be brave and making progress. So I chose my jig saw again for this job and the result is quite okay.

 

 

 

After mounting some parts it looks like I want to build a PC case.

 

 

 

I chose to setup the following connections/switches:

• connection for main power
• main switch (for power supply)
• a second switch for a less noisy night mode (yet I know that something like this isn't needed - you play with all toys enabled or you don't play)
• a USB connection as interface to an external PC (IPac, LEDWiz)
• enough space for more connections (e.g. for an optional external flasher panel)

 

Coming soon: Chapter 4 - Screws and glue

Edited by rasm, 17 May 2014 - 07:32 PM.

[rasm]

Chapter 4 - Screws and glue

 

In the last chapter I prepared all essential wooden parts (except the sanding job for the top plate) :-). Now it's time to connect all parts to a well formed case.

If you want to make a good job, than cut your edges by 45° to get a nice result (without overlapping parts). I am missing related tools and know that I am not able to cut or sand such things clean enough.

 

 

 

To avoid ugly screw heads I used my drill to hide heads within the wood by using a layer so called wood kit from my hardware store.

 

 

 

 

Yes, I used too much screws for a small case :-). In the end I got something like a tank case that isn't able to break... and that weight tons. A lot of screws isn't enough for a real overengineering, so additionally I applied wood glue between my parts.

 

 

If you also try your luck in wood working, than please choose short screws. If you use long screws (like me) you will get ugly splitted parts.

 

 

Hmmm... It is as I expected... at least I earned experience for building my final cabinet later. Step by step I built up my case.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puh - okay. F***, yet it is time to thing about the hard sanding task. Hopefully I will find something to do before ;-).

 

Coming soon: Chapter 5 - A really small power supply

Edited by rasm, 16 May 2014 - 09:33 PM.

[rasm]

Chapter 5 - A really small power supply

 

It's time to collect some first wiring experience.

 

 

I connected the main switch...

 

 

...and ahhh yea - success - the button light is working!

 

 

To keep things inexpensive I ordered a very simple 5V power supply for office use only (whatever this means). This part is very small and don't have much power, but it's enough to make a first test.

 

 

And yes, my 12V fan is running with 5V. Unfortunately it sucks air inside the case, but I planned to blow it out on the backside. This can be easily fixed by turning the fan around. I will do this later, because I have to demount the fan anyways to paint the case.

 

 

 

What to do now? I was seeking some variety in tasks and I definetly don't want sanding my case top ;-).

 

 

I chose to make my first IPac experiment with a microswitch and I was really happy to see the IPac working fine. Firstly I wanted to play with my brand new service buttons, but I ordered wrong buttons (the snap-in option means that buttons snap in after pressing it - I thought that snap-in is the way of mounting the button block). So I ordered a second set of service buttons without snap-in (maybe I found some use for the snap-in varient later). Because I had to pay shipping costs I also ordered a tilt bob, so that I have something to play with around while I am waiting for my buttons from US.

 

 

I plan to use the small microswitch as coin door switch, so that it is pressed when opening/closing the case. This isn't an easy task because opening and pressing needs a complete button event (some other solutions were discussed here in the forum, but my approach is to make it simple first). Furthermore I tried to wire my first terminal block like I saw it on so many pics.

 

 

 

Coming soon: Chapter 6 - Case top

Edited by rasm, 17 May 2014 - 07:31 PM.

[rasm]

Chapter 6 - Case top

 

I was still waiting for my buttons, but the case was also not finished. So I started sanding the top of my case. OMG I don't have a sanding machine and doing this job by hand is a hard job. It takes so much time to remove a thin layer MDF by manual sanding, that's unbelievable. But my dream boosted up my motivation and I did my best. So after endless hours of sanding the top plate fits to the case, except on the front. But I thought it is a good idea to adjust the front after mounting the top, so that I can achieve a flatten surface as best as possible.

 

 

I spent one or two weeks in seeking a hinge that matches my expectations. I started with my as simple and cheap as possible approach and bought some standard hinges, but...

1. ...they look ugly, because I have to mount them on top of the case, because of the door angel.
2. ...the gab between door and case would be looking ugly in case of breaks through the hinges.

I was disapointed that my f***ing 6° angel of the top plate makes things so difficult (for me). After researching a lot of nights I learned that knowing different types of hinges is a science. So many different types exist and you have to learn a new vocabulary to understand what a hinge can be used for... and high quality hinges especially if you need it for a special case can cost a lot of money. I decided to buy hinges of bad quality but for a moderate price via ebay and the result was a perfect compromise. Now I can open and close the case easily to build in new toys or to check things while playing a game. And the best thing is that the door will be kept open/closed automatically by the hinges. Because I have a door I cannot avoid gaps between parts completely. My gap on top looks nice from my point of view, so I am happy about the result.

 

The small gap on top.

 

 

My chosen type of hinges.

 

 

Half opened case.

 

 

Open case.

 

 

More sanding needed on front panel :-(.

 

 

The front panel sanding job was awful and I spent a lot of hours to adjust my heavy weight MDF case, but the result looks nice.

 

 

 

So, now I need my package from US. While waiting I can play around with my service buttons and the tilt bob for nudging. But I will show you such stuff later, firstly let's start to paint the case.

 

Coming soon: Chapter 7 - Start painting

Edited by rasm, 17 May 2014 - 08:49 PM.

[rasm]

Chapter 7 - Start painting

 

Originally I planned to finish all obvious wood working tasks before painting the case. Unfortunately I am still waiting for my buttons and I don't want to drill related holes before I can ensure that buttons fit to their locations. While reading a lot of stuff about MDF paiting I realized that this is also a separate science and a well applied varnish creates a lot of effort. Especially it cost time, because you have to wait a drying period (in my case of 24h) after each layer. It's recommended to work with multiple thin layers and I planned to apply three primer layers before adding the eventual color in additional three layers. That means I have to wait at least a week that all layers are dry enough  .

 

MDF typically has a primer layer on the surface sides, but not on the edges and if you start to to sand something it is a good idea to refresh the primer layer. Otherwise the wood will suck your color liquids and you have to apply some more layers (but this is a valid option - I saw a guy on youtube who create nice results without using a primer). But I want to collect my own experience and bought the one and only MDF primer that was available at my local hardware store (called "Hagebau").

 

Pros would apply their painting layers via air brushing it in really nice thin layers. After researching about needed equipment I decided to use a roller instead. If you try the same, than try to keep layers thin. And after you rolled a complete surface, roll it again softly without any pressure to lift some bubbles (that could occur if you rolled to often about a single part of ya case).

 

 

 

 

The backside didn't looking very well, but it is only the backside and I am tired in sanding the case  .

 

 

After the first layer I was okay with the result. A nice tip is to to put your equipment (roller and brush) in foil, so that you can use it again on the next night.

When you applied a layer primer you have...

1. ...to wait until it's dry enough to work on it. In my primer specs I read something about 4h up to 24h. In my basement it took 24h to reach a related surface.
2. ...to sand your surface before painting the next layer with different types of sanding paper (from rough to fine).
3. ...to clean it from your sanding powder.
4. ...to clean it from every little piece of fat (that you put on your case by touching it). I used regular ethyl alcohol from my drugstore. Clean your complete case and I recommend to shortly clean every surface shortly again directly before you roll on the next layer, so that you ensure that their is no piece of dust on it. Every small hair in your paint will look ugly.
5. ...to go back to point 1. to repeat the whole process several times until you're happy with the result.

I applied three layers of primer before my buttons arrieved (I planned to add another layer after I drilled button holes).

 

 

 

In the mean time I got ugly some noses on the backside - you strctly have to avoid such noses. They need much more time to dry and it cost you time to sand it away. Because you're not able to sand exactly the nose, it could be that you remove well applied primer around the nose as well. Noses sucks!

 

 

And this is my intermediate result - okay for now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coming soon: Chapter 8 - Service buttons

[rasm]

Chapter 8 - Service buttons

 

Now it would be great to get my button package to drill all the holes before applying my color finish. But unfortunately I have to wait longer and longer... Next time that I order parts from US I will choose a more expensive shipping option to ensure to get needed parts in an adequate time. Btw. shipping costs is a cost factor that you should not forget when planning your build. Luckily I have some more parts with that I can play around while waiting for my buttons. I decided to wire my service buttons...

 

First of all I shortly want to explain service buttons if you don't know what it is. The service buttons of a pinball machine are used to adjust settings like the volume or the ball saver time (this setting is helpful if you want to convince your girlfriend/wife that pinball is great), start tests or access stats. Normaly you can access this buttons by opening the coin door. A open coin door is the signal to enter the menu mode of your machine. Because a set of service buttons is relatively cheap I also want a gadget like this in my build.

 

Be careful when ordering service buttons and do not choose the snap-in option if you're not definetly want this. I made the mistake and ordered things without enough research  .

 

But I got another set of service buttons without the snap-in option and now I can start to prepare it. Firstly you simply add button caps to your buttons.

 

 

 

I build a small case of thin plywood for an easier mounting and to create space for my button labels.

 

 

 

It's simple to destroy such a case by using screws, so I glued some parts.

 

 

Ah yea, I got the cheapest soldering iron I found and can't wait to try it. Firstly I prepared needed wires.

 

 

Than I connected a set of ground wires as daisy chain. Oh man, can't wait to try the soldering iron.

 

 

Ahhhh yea, my first soldering in this project. I was proud!

 

 

It makes fun and I liked the result. So I fasten put a couple of caples on the other side of pins.

 

 

Ahhhh yea, now I will add a terminal block and I can test my work (experienced cab builders know what will happen when analysing the last pic).

 

 

 

Nothing happend! The service buttons didn't work. Why? S**t, surprised I played around with some wires and noticed that I wired wrong pins. I you're an beginner it's a good idea to read the full pinball-electrics guide (incl. appendix), so that you can get more success on such parts than me. I thought that each service button is a simple switch with a connection on the left hand, another on the right hand and both will be connected when pressing the button. The buttons are wired more complicated in the inside and I had to rewire the pins and train my soldering skills.

 

 

I tested it again and everything works as expected.

 

 

I married my buttons with the small case to finish the work on my service buttons for now.

 

 

 

 

Coming soon: Chapter 9 - Nudging

Edited by rasm, 18 May 2014 - 12:30 PM.

[rasm]

Chapter 9 - Nudging

 

Several approaches are well described here in the forum to provide a nudging functionality. A couple of digital nudging what means exactly the same as pushing a button or impressive analog nudging methods which translate the strength of your force to your simulation. Digital methods looks a bit simpler and cheaper and I will start with one of them. Later I definetly want to have an analog nudging sensor, if I really use it. I know that nudging is an important technique for real pinball pros, but personally for me it feels a bit strange. If I am playing with a real pinball located anywhere and with so,me background knowledge about the money and passion that is needed to keep these great machines alive, than it's hard for me to dirty nudge the cab. On the other hand I really often use nudging in virtual simulations when playing with a keyboard and I don't get the feeling of shaking anything physically (just pressing a button).

 

I got a plumb bob for a moderate price that is usually used in real pinball for tilt detection. From this great community I learned how to adjust it to get a digital nudge sensor.

 

 

The plumb bob is a conducting pendelum that is mounted in a circular plate without a connection. If a cab is nudged the force is given to the pendelum that touches a contact and closes an electric circuit. So it works like a button (without detection the strength of the fource). Okay, implicitly the force will be detected, because the pendelum swings harder on a strong nudge. So you'll get more signals from the plumb bob what usually result in a tilt. Because it's like a button we can easily connect it to an IPac to get the signal for our simulation.

 

Because this plumb is originally used to only detect a tilt, the force direction isn't important. But I want to know the direction of a nudge, so that I am able to translate the nudge (more) correctly.

To separate different nudge directions I've to cut the circular mounting plate, so that I get 3 buttons instead of one (connection of the plumb on the left, front or right side). To keep all parts together I need an isolating mounting helper and I decided to use a piece of plywood.

 

 

 

I used a regular iron saw to split the contact plate in three parts.

 

 

Than I glued all segments on my prepared wooden isolator. I used hot glue for fast results.

 

 

 

Now it's time to solder some wires to the connector segments and the top. It's funny to put a soldering iron on something that was attached with hot glue  .

 

 

 

A last task for the preparation of my nudge sensor is needed. If I perform a nudge in front direction, than the pendelum could swing back and connect one of the side contacts. Sure, I want to avoid such effects and simply put some tape on the sensor part that would be responsible for a back nudge.

 

 

The tape isolates the contact, so that no nudge will be reported when the plumb touches the back area.

 

Coming soon: Chapter 10 - My buttons arrived

Edited by rasm, 18 May 2014 - 09:11 PM.

[rasm]

Chapter 10 - My buttons arrived

 

Jepp, it's true - my buttons arrived after something about four weeks waiting, because I am stupid enough to choose the cheapest shipping option. Some lessons learned:

• If you choose the cheapest shipping option your package will only be handled when the postal service has fee capacity.
• You will get a tracking number, but your tracking will get stuck on the status when your package is handled on a big postal center on the sender side. (That doesn't mean that your package get stuck there - you simply won't get any tracking updates with the cheapest option.)
• Don't choose the cheapest shipping option - do this only if you can wait a long time.
• German postal offices will open while I sleep and will close while I am at work, so I've to wake up early to visit them.
• If you went to your postal office don't be surprised if it is closed in case of technical issues. And please accept that it isn't possible to call directly an office - also the general hotline don't have a possibility to talk to your local office.
• If you went to your postal office don't be surprised if it is closed due to a general employee meeting.
• A national package will be kept for one week (7 days) at your local office before they sending it back to the sender. Luckily the hotline explains that international packages will be kept for 14 days. Unfortunately not every postal officer knows this and send you back home with the bad message that your package is sent back. (After some research: you must be careful - if your package was sent as a letter than they will keep it only for 7 days - also international letters.)
• It's really embarassing situation to think about a message text why you don't grap your package on time and why it is on the way back to the sender.
• It's really disappointing when you waited several weeks for your package and a postal officer explain that he sent it back.
• It's a feeling of absolutely great happiness if a post man brings the package, instead of all bad news! I got it! Jipy-Yea! 

After I got finaly my button package I was really happy and couldn't wait to start mounting my buttons. It's the key component (next to the IPac) to reach my first milestone. I chose the Ultimate Cab-Builder's Button Kit from VirtuaPin.

 

It wasn't an easy task to choose where to place the buttons. Here you find a thread about this topic. I adjusted the default location a bit to 60mm/90mm and am fine with it.

 

 

I planned all button positions accurate incl. a drawed circle to get a feeling if the position machtes my expectation, before drilling holes in my case that I started to love, because of all the hard working hours.

 

 

Now I made a mistake. I learned that it is an good idea to drill a small center hole, before drilling a big one to get accurate results. I scaled this aproach a bit like: if I need a big hole than I will pre-drill a bigger hole - that's bullshit - a small center hole would be okay, but a big one is abolutely not useful!

 

 

Btw. I used my biggest regular drill  .

 

 

I switched my drill extension to something called "Forstner-Bohrer" in German that is used to drill holes for furniture hinges. And it tooks only a second to understand that the center hole so big that I have no chance to follow it accurately. After a moment of crying I got an idea and mounted a thin plate of plywood on top and drilled small center holes from the inside that are able to follow.

 

 

The result looked not very accurate!

 

 

So, I used the other drill again to screw it around and to form egg like middle holes so that my buttons fit.   It felt like really professional work,

 

 

Here's the result of drilling my flipper button holes. On both sides I mounted a flipper and a magnasafe button. As a side note: Until now I didn't played any table with a Magnasafe option, so that I am not sure if I will really need it when switching to a real cab.

 

 

 

Unfortunately my 19mm MDF is so thick that the button is far way of the contact leafs. It could work as it is, but I would have to press the buttons relatively deep/strong. (In the picture the red button is pressed, the white one is released.)

 

 

I saw a lot of professional work here in the community and button holes that are drilled again a bit wider to put buttons deeper in the case from the outside. Because of my egg-like-looking holes I wasn't convinced if I am able to produce such great results and I decided to deepen the case from the inside.

 

 

 

The result works well and is quite nice (for me).

 

 

For a fast reaction...

 

 

As next task I worked on the front panel. I planned to mount the following buttons:

• Start game
• Extra ball. (Now I know, that I personally don't need a button like this.)
• Coin 1
• Coin 2 (Yes, I like it to have to coin buttons. I would love it to have a real coin door, but it would not fit in this box.)
• Launch ball

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I drilled to more holes for special buttons on the case top to control Hyperpin:

• Exit
• Favorites

 

 

And here's the result of mounting my button kit.

 

 

Yes - now it's visible what this box should be used for and I am really close to my first milestone. Unfortunately it makes no sense to start wiring now, firstly I have to demount everything and finishing my painting job.

 

Coming soon: Chapter 11 - A black box (painting)

[rasm]

Chapter 11 - A black box

 

A white box is looking okay, but my plan was a high glossy black case. So I went to my local hardware store and bought a ready to use glossy varnish that matches the system of my primer. Yet I get an idea why 2K varnish could be a better choice. I don't like the final surface  After weeks of drying it still feels a bit mellow and I thought that I would get a smooth hard cold flatten surface that feels like a lockbar. It is as it is...

 

But let's start with the preparation. Firstly I had to demount all fresh buttons.

 

 

This was my equipment.

 

 

Than I masked the case and cleaned it as best as possible.

 

 

Aaaaaaaaand this is the first layer black.

 

 

 

Ohhhhh no! I heavily damaged the carpet, because my cheap roller was broken inside and slipping away. Damn!!! I tried every cleaning agent, alcohol and nail polish remover of my wife. Why must this happen with the black color - to work with the white primer went really well. No, no, no!

 

 

Eventually I fixed this issue two or three weeks later.

 

 

But let's focus the topic. I also painted the service button case.

 

 

A second layer...

 

 

And here I had to follow the same rules as while painting the primer. Between every layer I had to wait 24h, I had to sand the last layer (rough to fine) and to clean everything very well. Here some pics after sanding the case.

 

 

 

 

Before the last layer usually only a short fine sanding is used. And than you're ready to finish this aweful task. It makes no fun to paint every night a new layer, I want to get things running and to play pinball instead of painting layer by layer. So after a while I decided to get the result as it is and it looks okay (not perfect, but okay).

 

 

Now my case is black. I don't like the result, because of the mellow and butt feeling. Maybe I can polish the case with glaze or wax. Ideas are very welcome. After the last drying period I am happy to finally attach my buttons and start wiring.

 

Coming soon: Chapter 12 - Some wires and a first game

Edited by rasm, 20 May 2014 - 10:02 PM.

[freneticamnesic]

Mellow and butt? Lol, you mean orange peeling

 

You could wet sand after it's 100% dry and clear coat...you're using a roller so you'd need a spray can or two to get a nice shine on there.

[rasm]

Mellow and butt? Lol, you mean orange peeling

 

You could wet sand after it's 100% dry and clear coat...you're using a roller so you'd need a spray can or two to get a nice shine on there.

 

Yea orange peeling  . And the surface feels a bit strange, I cannot stripe my hand easily across it, it's a bit like rubber.

It's a good idea to wet sand the case and use a spray can (this time will take a look at a car parts dealer). Uhhh, unfortunately I hate sanding and painting, because it takes so much time and I've to demount a lot of parts and mask it.

 

But it's a good idea. Thx.

[rasm]

Chapter 12 - Some wires and a first game

 

My case is black and I really wanted to stop all the painting tasks, because it made no fun to get stuck in doing the every night. Now it's wiring time!

 

 

My IPac was still waiting. I was planning to get it running in this session, so I was a bit excited.

 

 

I started with soldering some wires to the leaf switches, so that I am able to eventually connect them via a terminal block.

 

 

Than I daisy-chained the ground (0V) connection for all buttons.

 

 

A daisy-chain is a connection from button to a next button, so that you save wire and keep some optical simplicity. By this method you connect a couple of components in parallel to something (in this case ground). This is possible, because we don't need to connect the ground side to single dedicated ports on the IPac. This is a picture of a daisy chain before I attached it. 

 

 

This wire will be used to daisy chain the ground side for my button lights. Yes, I will connect the lights first, because I can get a fast result.

 

 

Because I don't switch any lights separately (I have no LEDWiz yet), I can also daisy-chain the power side for the lights.

 

 

Than I added my simple cheap 5V power supply. Please note that I used two completly isolated circuits - one for the IPac/button input and another one for the button lights.

 

 

Aaaaaand yes! It works - the lights are on and the fan is running. It's a bit strange that the yellow start button lights more brighter than the other buttons. Probably it uses another kind of bulb, but I am not sure about this. Maybe later I could switch to LEDs, but firstly I want to burn my first bulb,

 

 

 

Before connecting all buttons to the IPac I will shortly mount the already prepared service buttons.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I screwed down the IPac in the middle of the case and connected the ground side.

 

 

Wire per wire I connected all components to the board.

 

 

 

I tested the board with the config/test tool WinIPAC and adjusted the configuration. I had some truble by assigning special keys like a backslash, but in the end I got everything running (with a bit of luck and magic by flashing the board several times with different results). But in the end I got a working IPac and a matching button layout in WinIPAC.

 

 

 

And ohhh yea - it worked - I was happy. I achieved milestone I by playing a first game with my box and I also reached milestone II by the button lights (unfortunately they are turned off on this picture, because I tested them already before and I wanted to play).

 

 

With boosted motivation by my personal success I couldn't stop and also mounted the prepared nudging sensor.

 

 

 

 

Oh yea, it also worked and I reached a part of milestone X. Sure, the force could be adjusted a bit in VP, but I would play later with such details. After this session I was really satisfied and convinced that I got enough skillz and passion to spend more money on this hobby.

 

Next chapter: Chapter 13 - Making an order and playing around

[vampirolatino2]

You are almost done!

[rasm]

You are almost done!

 

Yes, now I am able to play, but it feels not real. It's just like a modified keyboard to play. In the next chapters I will share my experience on integrating force feedback components. 

[rasm]

Chapter 13 - Making an order and playing around

 

I achieved my first important milestone(s). But I want more and now as I know that I am able to swing a soldering iron, wiring buttons and getting working results I am ready to spend more money on an expensive key component: a LEDWiz.

 

After some discussions with my wife I planned to import it from US (looks much cheaper, than to take it from a local supplier). If I import something I know that I've to wait and spend some money on shipping, so I decided to combine the order with as much useful small stuff that I could need. After a while I end up with a shopping cart of about 60-70 bucks in total and while the checkout further 40 bucks go on top for shipping. So I canceled my order and went back to a local store to buy it for 70 EUR, a really fast shipping and as a Bonus with a pre-soldered wire for a shaker (I am sure you know the supplier ;-)).

But it made sense for me and I am really happy that I don't have to put my big cheap iron on the pins of a microship.

 

I know that a LEDWiz alone isn't enough to wire things up, so I searched at ebay inexpensive possibilities to get some terminal stuff, fuses, fuse-holders and a blank board to mount 32 fuses. It takes a while, but I found cheap options for all components.

 

Okay, my LEDWiz order plus accessories was placed! Cool. What to do now?

 

I started on thinking about, how I could integrate a (coin) door switch. It's not easy, because the switch has to be fully pressed and released when opening the case and also when closing it. My idea was to put a microswitch near to the hinges. To do this I tried to find the right place for a switch, but unfortunately I cannot really check it in case of no access to the case while the top is closed. So lessons learned: if you plan something similar keep a second possibility to work inside the case as fallback (e.g. a screwed back plate). Heres my progress on the switch:

 

 

 

 

Hmm, I don't got it working until now. Another idea could be to have a nail on the front side, but at the moment this topic bore me.

Another bad message arrived: it was spring time and so I had to bring back the garden furniture from my basement to the garden. Generally a good news, because my case looks good in sunshine. But on the other hand I am missing a table in my basement to keep a 46" TV setup, yet. Damn. This is another reason to build a real cab!!! If I want to play on a big screen I have to make an adhoc setup by getting all parts from the basement to my living room and sure bring it back after my session. That's not funny.

 

From an optimistic perspective I got new arguments for a real cab as soon as I finished my milestones.

 

Here're some sunshine pics:

 

 

 

 

Coming soon: Chapter 14 - LEDWiz