I want to stress that these are the results that I have found work for my cabinet. Your setup may be different and these numbers may not work as well for you. Keep a copy of the original file or write down the settings so you don't have to get the file again if you're not happy with the updates. This saves Noah's bandwidth ($$) and helps him keep it going!
I'm also going to list here what I believe to be what the settings mean, and how they affect the physics performance of the table. I am probably wrong, so I am open to corrections. I'll start the list off, and add as I have time.
Oblique Correction abbreviated as OC - This setting seems to pull the ball more towards the flipper when the number is higher - high numbers will actually make shots that normally would go across the table, backward like a backhand shot.
Speed & Strength - These settings tells how strongly the flipper flips, and the speed determines how quickly the flipper will flip. Very slow speed settings will result in very weak shots. They seem to be tied together, and if you have either speed or strength closer to 1, then the other setting should be closer to 0. Often it seems to me that strength should be the higher number, with speed around 0.2
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Tested Tables That Play Well Without Changes
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Back to the Future (JP)
Cirqus Voltaire (JP)
Lord of the Rings (JP)
Bram Stoker's Dracula by JP and also modded by Jimmy Fingers
Twilight Zone Megapin V1.0FS
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All settings not listed, table default
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Alien Star FS - Improvements by Chas
Align the flippers and rails similar to the IPDb.org screen shot (note: move them down to the darker yellow stripe that comes off the special lights)
Scale the flippers to the correct size and length according to the picture
Left & Right Flippers: Strength on 5, speed 0.075, elasticity 0.45, power law 2, OC 0, Start angle -240/240 the flippers, End angle -295/295.
Notes: After you move the flippers and rails, you'll need to change the apron in order to keep the ball from getting stuck. Reduce the apron OuterWall and Wall7 to below the apron image's yellow and red lines. It will affect the look of the table, but at least it will play better.
Demolition Man v1.06b
Right Flipper: Speed 0.2, Strength 1, End Angle 295
Left Flipper: Speed 0.2, Strength 1, End Angle 65
Diamond Lady 1.0FS
Left Flipper: OC 4.5
Right Flipper: OC 4.5
Gilligan's Island v1.1
Table Settings: Slope Min & Max 6
Right Flipper: Speed 0.2, Strength 0.66, OC 4.5
Left Flipper: Speed 0.2, Strength 0.66, OC 4.5
No Fear 91_x 1.0FS
Right Flipper: Speed 0.2, Strength 0.7, OC 4.5
Left Flipper: Speed 0.2, Strength 0.7, OC 4.5
Star Trek 25th Anniversary v1.05FS & B2S Version
Table Settings: Default
Right Flipper: Speed 0.2 Strength 1 OC 4.5, Start Angle 239, End Angle 300
Left Flipper: Speed 0.2 Strength 1 OC 4.5, Start Angle 121, End Angle 60
Script change: On my friend's real game, right kicker sw40 should kick out softer, search script for sw40 and change the 24 value to 8
Notes: This allows you to make some backhand shots at the center targets. Ideally, you should be able to backhand left ramp & transporter with left flipper, and backhand right ramp with right flipper
Tales of the Arabian Nights TOTAN v3.2FS
Right Flipper: OC 4.5
Left Flipper: OC 4.5
Notes: This makes it much easier to hit the outer shots, specifically the right captive ball, the right orbit and the left yellow target. You'll find it slightly more difficult to hit the main ramp, but this is more how the game plays in real life - it shouldn't be that easy.
Whitewater 1.0FS
Table: 6.5 degree min and max slope, see notes
Left Flipper: End Angle 66, 0.2 Speed, 0.66 Strength, OC 4.5
Right Flipper: End Angle 294, 0.2 Speed, 0.66 Strength, OC 4.5
Upper Flipper: End Angle 265, 0.25 Speed, 0.75 Strength
Table Change: If you want the ball to not bounce off the back of the flippers, move them down exactly 4 points. Shift-Click both flippers, right-click to unlock them, then arrow down 4 times, and re-lock. [maceman]
Notes: I'm still not totally happy with the way this plays, but it is an improvement over the original, for example, it lets you backhand Disaster Drop from the right flipper. There is a little weirdness when the ball is moving, but not terrible. The upper flipper still needs a little work to make it easier to hit the whirpool - this shot feels weird as it is, the ramp is a little klugy compared to real life. The slope settings makes the skill plunge easier, but messes up the bigfoot hideout ramp, so use setting at your own risk. I think a higher slope would be okay if the shooter ramp could be fixed - once you're over the apex, the ball should fall into the upper flipper feed, not back toward the shooter. Also, another glaring problem is that an extremely hard plunge sends the ball SDTM, where it should be hitting the left flipper - at least this happens on my game. Noah says he's played 3 wh20's where SDTM is standard. Another note is that there is a rubber between the bottom and right pop bumpers on my game, I don't know if this is standard or not.
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To Do List
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South Park - Very difficult to make the right ramp shot. It's kind of hard on the real pin, but not that hard. Both flippers feel off to me, but not too terrible.
DE Star Wars - The v9.1 JP game feels like the left flipper pulls the shots to the left a bit, making the death star shot a little harder than it should be. Also it is easier to trap the ball in real life.
Whitewater - As noted above
Edited by analog999, 09 February 2012 - 08:04 AM.
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