1103 replies to this topic

[mjr]

I'm afraid that the KL02Z and KL26Z are incompatible.  The KL26Z does have similar pinouts, but its internals are different.

 

There was a post on here recently about a potential source of KL25Z boards that you might check out before buying from an Amazon scalper:

 

https://www.vpforums...showtopic=50672

[Suikazz]

I'm afraid that the KL02Z and KL26Z are incompatible.  The KL26Z does have similar pinouts, but its internals are different.

 

There was a post on here recently about a potential source of KL25Z boards that you might check out before buying from an Amazon scalper:

 

https://www.vpforums...showtopic=50672

i'm sorry but that source dried up.

[mrwakuhn]

I had a problem with no outputs from TLC5940's; the root cause turned out to be that the EEPROM dot correction came initialized to all 0's, instead of all 1's as required by Pinscape.  I discovered the problem (using a breadboard test) by setting pin 19 (DCPRG) high instead of low, to select the DC register rather than the EEPROM values, and then the chip worked correctly.  Solution was to manually program the EEPROM to all 1's following the procedure in the data sheet. 

FYI, I recently ordered a FRDM-KL25Z directly from NXP.  Their web page said "waiting supply" but I received it in under 3 weeks.

Edited by mrwakuhn, 09 February 2023 - 01:54 PM.

[mjr]

I had a problem with no outputs from TLC5940's; the root cause turned out to be that the EEPROM dot correction came initialized to all 0's, instead of all 1's as required by Pinscape.  I discovered the problem (using a breadboard test) by setting pin 19 (DCPRG) high instead of low, to select the DC register rather than the EEPROM values, and then the chip worked correctly.  Solution was to manually program the EEPROM to all 1's following the procedure in the data sheet. 

FYI, I recently ordered a FRDM-KL25Z directly from NXP.  Their web page said "waiting supply" but I received it in under 3 weeks.

 

That's some good detective work!  I wonder if some of the other cases of DOA chips posted here were due to the same problem.  I intentionally didn't include EEPROM programming in the Pinscape boards because of the complexity it would add, and the specs in TI's documentation saying that they come from the factory pre-set correctly.  I'm glad you were able to find a solution.

[chrimeg]

Hello everyone. 

So I started assembling my pinscape PCBs that I purchase a few years ago. As I was installing sockets etc. I thought about the side connectors/terminals and was wondering if anyone uses/used something different than the crimp pins etc. When I searched online I found some other boards using the green connectors. For example the boards created here https://www.vpforums...showtopic=41510

 

So I know that is a different style board but wondering if those same style connectors would work on the mainboard and power board. I'd assume the pitch to be 2.54? Any suggestions or other alternatives for terminals would be great.

 

Thanks in advance.

[mjr]

So I started assembling my pinscape PCBs that I purchase a few years ago. As I was installing sockets etc. I thought about the side connectors/terminals and was wondering if anyone uses/used something different than the crimp pins etc. When I searched online I found some other boards using the green connectors. For example the boards created here https://www.vpforums...showtopic=41510

 

So I know that is a different style board but wondering if those same style connectors would work on the mainboard and power board. I'd assume the pitch to be 2.54? Any suggestions or other alternatives for terminals would be great.

 

Right, the output connectors are 0.1" / 2.54mm pitch.  There are definitely some other options that will fit those besides the basic pin headers - I've seen screw terminals that will fit if you prefer that style.  Mouser and DigiKey have pretty decent search tools for finding this sort of thing.  Here's a search for available 0.1" terminal blocks on Mouser:

 

https://www.mouser.c...54 mm&instock=y

 

I always use the "In stock" option because these guys have gigantic catalogs that include lots of parts you can special-order in lots of 10,000 with a two-year lead time, which obviously isn't great for us!  I just want to see what I can actually order.

[chrimeg]

Yes I'd much rather a type of terminal that has quick connected but screw terminal on one side. I've seen them on Aliexpress but only in groups of 4,5,6. Tayda doesn't seem to have that style. Shipping from Digi and Mouser seems to be crazy unless you buy enough to warrant the shipping costs.

Something like this:
https://www.aliexpre...9800002032585_3

or: 

 

https://www.aliexpre...id=zUn8FqsevlWW

 

trying to find in the right pitch is not easy though.
 

[mjr]

> Shipping from Digi and Mouser seems to be crazy unless you buy

> enough to warrant the shipping costs.

 

Yeah, they definitely scale better with larger purchases.  One thing that might not be apparent with Mouser is that they usually will show a relatively inexpensive USPS first-class package option at checkout, usually in the $3 to $5 range (I think they figure it based on package size and weight) - but you'll only see it when you're logged in.  For some reason their system only shows the more expensive UPS options when you're logged out.

[marie]

I have been running my Pinscape board already for some years without any problems. Until recently...

My leds of RGB Flipperbuttons and RGB Magnasave buttons are not lighting up very bright and also are flickering.

 

For problemsolving I tried the Pinscape configtool and discovered that for all these leds the blue channels are also not working anymore. The 5 RGB flashers are still working perfectly btw. 

 

I am assuming that one of my (amateuristic) solders gone loose... Is there a place most likely to check/ resolder with the above description? Or any other hint in the right direction?

 

Thanks!

[chrimeg]

On the pinscape interface board there are 2 x 560ohm resistors. One (R39) for the TV on remote feature that can be omitted if not using. However, there is no mention of R36 which is a 560ohm as well. Having a hard time locating these right now and wondering if I could substitute with something closer. On hand I have 510ohm or 680ohm. that are closest within the ranger.

 

What does R36 operate and can it be substituted with another ohm that will not impact functionality?

[mjr]

I have been running my Pinscape board already for some years without any problems. Until recently...

My leds of RGB Flipperbuttons and RGB Magnasave buttons are not lighting up very bright and also are flickering.

 

For problemsolving I tried the Pinscape configtool and discovered that for all these leds the blue channels are also not working anymore. The 5 RGB flashers are still working perfectly btw. 

 

I am assuming that one of my (amateuristic) solders gone loose... Is there a place most likely to check/ resolder with the above description? Or any other hint in the right direction?

 

The low-power LED ports are all connected directly to the TLC5940 labeled IC2, so I don't think there's any soldering-level thing that would make a group of channels go out like that.  I'd suspect that the TLC5940 chip might be the problem.  Are the chips socketed on your board?  If so, one thing you could try would be to swap IC1 and IC2.  If the problem is with the TLC5940 chip, then swapping them should move the problem from the small LED outputs to the flasher outputs - that small LEDs should start working again and the flashers should show the same pattern of dead outputs.  In that case you'd just need to replace the bad chip.  If nothing changes after swapping the chips, the chips must be fine and there must be something wrong in the soldering after all.  The pattern you're seeing with only the blue channels doesn't suggest anything to me about where to look, other than at the individual connections to those channels - each will have one solder joint to the corresponding pin on IC2, and one solder joint at the pin header.

On the pinscape interface board there are 2 x 560ohm resistors. One (R39) for the TV on remote feature that can be omitted if not using. However, there is no mention of R36 which is a 560ohm as well. Having a hard time locating these right now and wondering if I could substitute with something closer. On hand I have 510ohm or 680ohm. that are closest within the ranger.

 

What does R36 operate and can it be substituted with another ohm that will not impact functionality?

 

560 ohms is one of the standard sizes, so I'm surprised they'd be hard to find - it looks the part on the list for R36 is in stock at Mouser.  But for that particular one, you should be able to substitute a 680.  It controls the current through opto OK14, so increasing the resistance will reduce the current, but as long as you don't go higher than about 1K it should probably still be enough to trigger the circuit.  

Edited by mjr, 16 March 2023 - 06:50 PM.

[marie]

Thanks mjr for your fast analysis!! Will be looking at the TLC9540's first! Thanks again for your help!

[chrimeg]

 

I have been running my Pinscape board already for some years without any problems. Until recently...

My leds of RGB Flipperbuttons and RGB Magnasave buttons are not lighting up very bright and also are flickering.

 

For problemsolving I tried the Pinscape configtool and discovered that for all these leds the blue channels are also not working anymore. The 5 RGB flashers are still working perfectly btw. 

 

I am assuming that one of my (amateuristic) solders gone loose... Is there a place most likely to check/ resolder with the above description? Or any other hint in the right direction?

 

The low-power LED ports are all connected directly to the TLC5940 labeled IC2, so I don't think there's any soldering-level thing that would make a group of channels go out like that.  I'd suspect that the TLC5940 chip might be the problem.  Are the chips socketed on your board?  If so, one thing you could try would be to swap IC1 and IC2.  If the problem is with the TLC5940 chip, then swapping them should move the problem from the small LED outputs to the flasher outputs - that small LEDs should start working again and the flashers should show the same pattern of dead outputs.  In that case you'd just need to replace the bad chip.  If nothing changes after swapping the chips, the chips must be fine and there must be something wrong in the soldering after all.  The pattern you're seeing with only the blue channels doesn't suggest anything to me about where to look, other than at the individual connections to those channels - each will have one solder joint to the corresponding pin on IC2, and one solder joint at the pin header.

On the pinscape interface board there are 2 x 560ohm resistors. One (R39) for the TV on remote feature that can be omitted if not using. However, there is no mention of R36 which is a 560ohm as well. Having a hard time locating these right now and wondering if I could substitute with something closer. On hand I have 510ohm or 680ohm. that are closest within the ranger.

 

What does R36 operate and can it be substituted with another ohm that will not impact functionality?

 

560 ohms is one of the standard sizes, so I'm surprised they'd be hard to find - it looks the part on the list for R36 is in stock at Mouser.  But for that particular one, you should be able to substitute a 680.  It controls the current through opto OK14, so increasing the resistance will reduce the current, but as long as you don't go higher than about 1K it should probably still be enough to trigger the circuit.  

 

Yeah I can get them online just locally they have nothing....does it have to be 1/2 watt or will 1/4 do? 

[chrimeg]

So R36 anything lower that 1K should be fine. I see that is it rate at 1/2 watt. Can I use a 1/4 or if I'm increasing the resistance will I have to stay with 1/2w or go higher?

[mjr]

So R36 anything lower that 1K should be fine. I see that is it rate at 1/2 watt. Can I use a 1/4 or if I'm increasing the resistance will I have to stay with 1/2w or go higher?

 

In the parts list, you'll see that R36 is listed without any wattage spec, which means that you can use 1/4W or higher. 

 

(When making substitutions, you should go with what's written in the parts list.  I'm guessing you pulled the 1/2W number from the data sheet for the reference part listed.  You don't have to find exact duplicates of the reference parts - in some cases, like this one, the reference part happens to have higher specs than necessary, because they were the convenient match at the time I made the list.)

[chrimeg]

 

So R36 anything lower that 1K should be fine. I see that is it rate at 1/2 watt. Can I use a 1/4 or if I'm increasing the resistance will I have to stay with 1/2w or go higher?

 

In the parts list, you'll see that R36 is listed without any wattage spec, which means that you can use 1/4W or higher. 

 

(When making substitutions, you should go with what's written in the parts list.  I'm guessing you pulled the 1/2W number from the data sheet for the reference part listed.  You don't have to find exact duplicates of the reference parts - in some cases, like this one, the reference part happens to have higher specs than necessary, because they were the convenient match at the time I made the list.)

 

 

 

Yes thats exactly what I done. Thanks again for everything mjr! I'm amazed how much support you put into this community for us hobbyists!!!! 

[rickla]

Oh I found you mjr... why didn't I look here first.

 

I accidentally got a kl26z and since i looked so similar thought maybe it would work. So I got down a rabbit hold of just getting it to work on win 11, and finally got it accepting binaries, and was glad the pinscape bin loaded.

 

However as I see you mentioned it's internally different enough to not work completely. All the buttons are on except PTE22 works, which is odd.

 

But since my main reason for the board was nudge, I am glad to see the accelerometer does show up! So maybe I got it for that at least, and I'll but one of those cheap encoders off amazon for buttons.

 

Anyway before this I was going to ask if a simple rebuild of the source with a new target would work but it sounds like no. Not that using the sdk is straightforward but I did get that going too, but what a rabbit hole!

 

Thanks for all the work on it though, the software is really nice especially the configurator.

 

[mjr]

rickla - yeah, sorry that the KL26Z isn't an option at the moment.  I'm sure it would be possible to rework the software for it, but it would take some doing, since the two devices are somewhat different internally.  I'm glad to hear that at least the accelerometer is working - that's a nice surprise.

[Tesla]

I purchased NXP's KL25Z from Amazon. I'm guessing it's a fairly standard "reference design PCB" because they all seem to look the same.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows if these PCBs are single-layer/double-sided (traces only on top and bottom where the components are soldered on)?

 

Also, since mine came without headers installed, should I be OK to go-ahead and solder them in? Have yall ever heard of someone doing that? 

[mjr]

I purchased NXP's KL25Z from Amazon. I'm guessing it's a fairly standard "reference design PCB" because they all seem to look the same.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows if these PCBs are single-layer/double-sided (traces only on top and bottom where the components are soldered on)?

 

Also, since mine came without headers installed, should I be OK to go-ahead and solder them in? Have yall ever heard of someone doing that? 

 

As far as I know, NXP is the only manufacturer of these boards.  The schematics are published, although I don't think they're exactly open-source - I don't know if the license allows anyone else to manufacture them.  I think the schematics are published mostly as a form of documentation to assist those creating their own designs based on the CPU, which of course NXP would like to encourage.

 

All of them come without headers installed.  I think it's just to reduce costs - I don't think there's any reason anyone would not want the headers.  I wouldn't hesitate to install them; it's much easier to work with that way.

Edited by mjr, 02 April 2023 - 05:24 AM.