32 replies to this topic

[arngrim]

glad it helped you

 

what do you use to power the amplifier, a psu? i didn't use car amplifiers because i don't know how to power the amp..

 

once i'm done with the new AMH, i would like to see the pacled64 in action with that table, i imagine how good it can be, but i don't have a pacled yet myself, mostly about undercab lights, ah i just saw you are missing it for the moment...

[robertms]

glad it helped you

 

what do you use to power the amplifier, a psu? i didn't use car amplifiers because i don't know how to power the amp..

 

once i'm done with the new AMH, i would like to see the pacled64 in action with that table, i imagine how good it can be, but i don't have a pacled yet myself, mostly about undercab lights, ah i just saw you are missing it for the moment...

 

The amplifier came with a 110V AC power supply in the kit I purchased from VirtuaPin ( http://virtuapin.net...products_id=120 ) so I didn't bother with any other solutions.

I suppose you could easily run it using a PSU since the input voltage range is 9 to 14.4 VDC, but I haven't tried it.

 

Yeah I'm still working on the undercab lighting, I actually had it all configured and working prior to taking everything apart for paint. I just need to get a few L-shaped strip connectors and a little free time to finish it all up, shouldn't be too long. Really curious to check out AMH myself so I'll keep you posted.

 

Speaking of your DOF contributions, I don't think it's said enough around here but I think everyone will agree we all REALLY appreciate your dedication to keeping DOF updated with latest configurations, releasing updates nearly instantaneously with new table releases and constantly expanding and improving the existing database. I can only imagine how much time and effort this takes, so thank you again for everything you do our community!

[arngrim]

thanks for the kind words, no don't try to imagine the hours, i even don't do that myself hopefully, just now i'm doing less, and will take one from time to time, i couldn't keep that pace that long

[Phlash]

Excellent, I think the best way to describe your machine, is very professional both inside and out, you have talent and one can tell you take pride in what you do. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers,
Phlash

[robertms]

Excellent, I think the best way to describe your machine, is very professional both inside and out, you have talent and one can tell you take pride in what you do. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers,
Phlash

Thanks for your kind words Phlash!  

[Sneetch]

+1 to the wiring!  You need a window and some LED lighting on the inside to show that off!!     

 

Great cab all around, it looks incredible.

 

Any tips for those who are seeking to have showroom quality internal wiring such as you have pulled off?   If I can get 1/10th the cleanliness as that when I get to that stage I will be impressed with myself. 

[robertms]

Major update 2024:

 

It’s been roughly 10 years since I built the Godzilla cabinet and I’ve been looking for ways to update the hardware to modern standards: 4K/120Hz playfield large enough to display realistic-size tables, higher resolution and more suitable aspect ratio for the backglass monitor, and a color DMD solution that’s not limited to displaying dots only.

 

The goal was to maintain the authentic Williams widebody appearance and dimensions, without having to alter the backbox, the speaker panel, or resort to a custom lockbar solution. I also didn’t want to give up the “classic” dome RGB lightbar, as I’ve grown to love it and think of it more appropriate in an authentic Williams cabinet than a flashy matrix panel.

 

After months of preparations I managed to shoehorn a 48” LG OLED TV into a fully assembled Williams WPC Widebody cabinet. Also updated the backglass display to a better fitting 16:10 IPS display, and found a perfect solution for a color DMD monitor to replace the real Vishay dot-matrix DMD.

 

Here is an abbreviated list of the updated equipment:

• Playfield: LG 48" B4 OLED 4K/120Hz (BestBuy Black Friday sale $600)
• Backglass: Dell UltraSharp U3014t 2K/60Hz IPS 2560x1600 16:10 30" Monitor (Ebay auction $120)
• Color DMD: Wisecoco 14" 4K/60Hz IPS 3840x1100 Stretched Bar Monitor (Amazon $250)
• MB MSI PRO Z690
• CPU i7 12700K
• GPU RTX 4070
• Arnoz Dude's Cab board for low latency buttons, plunger and nudge

I’m thrilled with the results. The cab looks better than ever with perfectly fitting wall-to-wall displays, no gaps to fill anywhere, and the performance improvements are well worth the added cost. Highly recommended!

 

​

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[barneyrfd]

Very nice piece of kit, clean and neat.

[robertms]

I'm really enjoying the updated setup. The 48" OLED fills the entire cab side to side and front to back, no gaps. In VPX 10.8 I can now scale tables to 1:1 POV ratio resulting in lifelike playfield dimensions, flippers and ball size. As it turns out this has a very positive effect on gameplay, with undistorted geometry I can now hit difficult shots like never before. As an added bonus with the OLED technology any unused areas of the screen remain turned off creating inky blacks on the sides, which your brain completely ignores helping to retain the illusion of lifelike pinball. Here are some additional photos of the finished cab in action:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TehLurv]

I am envious of that clean internal layout. Great job.

[evilution]

Major update 2024:

 

It’s been roughly 10 years since I built the Godzilla cabinet and I’ve been looking for ways to update the hardware to modern standards: 4K/120Hz playfield large enough to display realistic-size tables, higher resolution and more suitable aspect ratio for the backglass monitor, and a color DMD solution that’s not limited to displaying dots only.

 

The goal was to maintain the authentic Williams widebody appearance and dimensions, without having to alter the backbox, the speaker panel, or resort to a custom lockbar solution. I also didn’t want to give up the “classic” dome RGB lightbar, as I’ve grown to love it and think of it more appropriate in an authentic Williams cabinet than a flashy matrix panel.

 

After months of preparations I managed to shoehorn a 48” LG OLED TV into a fully assembled Williams WPC Widebody cabinet. Also updated the backglass display to a better fitting 16:10 IPS display, and found a perfect solution for a color DMD monitor to replace the real Vishay dot-matrix DMD.

 

Here is an abbreviated list of the updated equipment:

• Playfield: LG 48" B4 OLED 4K/120Hz (BestBuy Black Friday sale $600)
• Backglass: Dell UltraSharp U3014t 2K/60Hz IPS 2560x1600 16:10 30" Monitor (Ebay auction $120)
• Color DMD: Wisecoco 14" 4K/60Hz IPS 3840x1100 Stretched Bar Monitor (Amazon $250)
• MB MSI PRO Z690
• CPU i7 12700K
• GPU RTX 4070
• Arnoz Dude's Cab board for low latency buttons, plunger and nudge

I’m thrilled with the results. The cab looks better than ever with perfectly fitting wall-to-wall displays, no gaps to fill anywhere, and the performance improvements are well worth the added cost. Highly recommended!

 

How much did you have to trim off the sides? How do you hold down the playfield glass? Did you de-case? My C4 has that IR receiver bump on the bottom that i think I would need to relocate somehow... Building an ultra widebody for a 48" OLED right now but at 27" wide it may bother me since it will be next to real pins so I think I am going to find myself going down this road. 
 

[robertms]

 

How much did you have to trim off the sides? How do you hold down the playfield glass? Did you de-case? My C4 has that IR receiver bump on the bottom that i think I would need to relocate somehow... Building an ultra widebody for a 48" OLED right now but at 27" wide it may bother me since it will be next to real pins so I think I am going to find myself going down this road. 

 

 

I routed 1/2-inch off each side, leaving 1/4-inch of birch plywood. I did decase the TV, which was pretty straightforward, then moved/repositioned the IR receiver so it is accessible via TV remote through the coindoor opening. I also removed the speakers and the back cover (for increased air flow), and mounted the TV directly to a 3/4-inch plywood for added stability. Keep in mind I don't have a fancy tilt-up mechanism; that would have required more routing at the back than I was comfortable with, plus I didn't want to further weaken the cabinet. The playfield assembly simply sits on 3/4-inch wood rails mounted to the sides of the cabinet. It's not the most convenient setup when it comes to working inside the cab; I have to disconnect the cables and lift out the TV/board assembly out of the cab. But I don't mind, it's a small tradeoff to enjoy a full-size edge-edge playfield, able to reproduce tables in true 1:1 ratio.

 

For the glass I attached the plastic channels directly to the Williams metal side rails. I used strong nano-tape and it seems to be holding fine.

[evilution]

 

 

How much did you have to trim off the sides? How do you hold down the playfield glass? Did you de-case? My C4 has that IR receiver bump on the bottom that i think I would need to relocate somehow... Building an ultra widebody for a 48" OLED right now but at 27" wide it may bother me since it will be next to real pins so I think I am going to find myself going down this road. 

 

 

I routed 1/2-inch off each side, leaving 1/4-inch of birch plywood. I did decase the TV, which was pretty straightforward, then moved/repositioned the IR receiver so it is accessible via TV remote through the coindoor opening. I also removed the speakers and the back cover (for increased air flow), and mounted the TV directly to a 3/4-inch plywood for added stability. Keep in mind I don't have a fancy tilt-up mechanism; that would have required more routing at the back than I was comfortable with, plus I didn't want to further weaken the cabinet. The playfield assembly simply sits on 3/4-inch wood rails mounted to the sides of the cabinet. It's not the most convenient setup when it comes to working inside the cab; I have to disconnect the cables and lift out the TV/board assembly out of the cab. But I don't mind, it's a small tradeoff to enjoy a full-size edge-edge playfield, able to reproduce tables in true 1:1 ratio.

 

For the glass I attached the plastic channels directly to the Williams metal side rails. I used strong nano-tape and it seems to be holding fine.

 

 

Perfect, thank you! I am going to complete my ultra-wide since I already have everything on hand but I have a feeling I will be building a 2nd lower cab based on a standard widebody and doing something similar to what you did here.