9 replies to this topic

[Tesla]

That real "Popping-a-Game" sound ... is there really a good way to do it with just SSF-7.1 . Seems limiting to me, so I'm thinking no. But if you know a way, please mention it.

 

So, I found real-hardware "Replay Knockers" here:

http://mjrnet.org/pi...hp?sid=knockers

 

Doesn't look too expensive or hard to install ... except for all the Prerequisites. 

It's in the DOF section, so I assume I would have to get that working first?

 

Do cabinet owners usually enable DOF for just one thing?

Looks like I need some kind of controller board to fire it?

 

Can I even enable DOF and get this working with a little Pinscaped KL25z (with soldered-in Headers) ? Or is this beyond my reach with current setup?

Edited by Tesla, 30 September 2025 - 02:14 AM.

[mjr]

Knockers are indeed a tough effect to replicate convincingly with speakers.

 

DOF is definitely what you need for that.  And yes, Pinscape on KL25Z works happily with DOF; you just have to configure some outputs ports in the Outputs section. 

 

But you can't connect a 50V/4A coil directly to a KL25Z GPIO, or even an LedWiz port.  High-power devices like that need a booster circuit.  The Build Guide chapter on KL25Z standalone outputs talks about that and has several examples:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...tputsStandalone

 

For a knocker, the "pre-built MOSFET board" is probably your best option.  Those are cheap and easy to wire.

 

If you want to do a proof-of-concept test just to make sure you can get the software setup working, you can connect a small LED to a KL25Z GPIO port, with 3.3V power and a resistor chosen for 5mA current.  The KL25Z GPIO ports can handle that much directly (and that's ALL they can handle directly - don't go above 5mA).  Configure everything on the DOF side as though that port is the knocker, and then you can test your setup by verifying that the LED lights up briefly when you trigger the knocker port in the VP DOF test table.  Once that works, it's just a matter of replacing the LED with the booster input that drives the coil.

 

Another benefit of getting a knocker going is that you'll have all of the basic plumbing in place to add any other feedback effects you decide aren't cutting it with speakers.  Shakers, fans, and lighting effects (flashers, beacons, strobes) are probably the top ones there.  It'll be very little incremental work to add each additional effect.

Edited by mjr, 30 September 2025 - 02:19 AM.

[Tesla]

That's all encouraging enough, thanks. So, I will do my homework (read your manual) and look into it further. It looks sorta like an electro-magnet?

 

I do have a curiosity to do things in yall's standard (simple, tested, and proven) VP way. 

 

However, in the back of my mind, I'm pretty sure there is a PixHawk Drone way. I also built a little pet-robot once ... back then I used these Relays that could handle some volts/amps, but were activated by TTL signals. However, you are talking about some major power there and those relays require an-OFF signal as well. 

[digitalarts]

Hi Tesla,
Imho No need to use a "original" knocker device.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.d...aps,121&sr=8-3#

Placed it in Backbox, added a small Metal Plate as "Touch place" so the Sound IS very "hard", AS it should 😉

(Sorry for the uncomfortable Link, it should only be use AS example)

Very cheap device, 12v. (Don't forget to add a Diode for protection, See MJR bible)

Edited by digitalarts, 30 September 2025 - 04:34 PM.

[Tesla]

Wow. I had no idea I could do so much with just my little standalone Pinscaped-KL25z. Seems like every-time I go to read more of your Build-Guide I find more good info. I think I'm skipping pages because they are confusing. However, as I learn more of the basics, these pages become understandable and the projects become viable.

 

I have no problem building either one of those simple Booster Circuits. My problem is sourcing all the correct parts and getting them here in front of me. Plus, I need the Coil/Solenoid and it's looking like a fairly high-powered power-supply.

 

I agree that a "pre-built MOSFET board" is a nice shortcut. Most look fairly well built. I'm hoping they have some protection built-in (maybe even when an on-board component fails). It would suck if my KL25z got blown-up. Also interesting that you never see Fuses (even Slo-Blow ones) on boards any more.

Anyway, do any of these on Amazon-Prime look good to you? Think Reliability, Durability, and Flexibility (over money cost). 

 

https://www.amazon.c...Y7F3/ref=sr_1_4

 

https://www.amazon.c...C4YP/ref=sr_1_6

 

https://www.amazon.c...Q2XF/ref=sr_1_8

 

https://www.amazon.c...ef=sr_1_15?th=1

 

Some above are 4-channel. I'm not really interested on adding light/motors but if I was to add one other device later, I think it would be 2-solenoids for the 2 main flippers. Seems like a 4-channel could do that, or just run multiple single channels ones.

 

If it's this easy to add ... seems like their should be a Replay-Knocker-Kit for sale. Or maybe everyone buys the big-boards and I'm in the minority trying to sqeak-by with a baby-board (who knows <smile>). Anyway, what do you think of this kit. I would not mind helping to support these guys if you think it will work (and they can get it to me fairly quickly).

 

https://www.clevelan...-conversion-kit

 

That looks like everything I need. I'm guessing it runs from only 12v with a DC-to-DC Converter/Amp (interesting). Maybe weaker than any of yalls, but I'm thinking it might be enough sound (my cabinet is in a house, not an arcade). I think even a weak one will be loud here (and will still scare our Bengal-Cat).

 

Finally ... so once I get this working in DOF, I assume it's going to stop making the "Pop a Game" sound over the speakers? (I'm hoping so).

Edited by Tesla, 30 September 2025 - 08:15 PM.

[Tesla]

Hi Tesla,
Imho No need to use a "original" knocker device.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.d...aps,121&sr=8-3#

Placed it in Backbox, added a small Metal Plate as "Touch place" so the Sound IS very "hard", AS it should

(Sorry for the uncomfortable Link, it should only be use AS example)

Very cheap device, 12v. (Don't forget to add a Diode for protection, See MJR bible)

 

Here it is on the Amazon-USA website, even on Prime

 

https://www.amazon.c...B12M/ref=sr_1_1

 

Looks like this might be perfect, so thanks for the recommendation.

 

Like I was just posting ... those real ones might be overkill for my uses ... but needs to be a real one ... and I need to be able to buy it easily.

 

What are you using for the Booster/Controller circuit?

 

This is gonna be so cool ...

Edited by Tesla, 30 September 2025 - 08:14 PM.

[digitalarts]

No Booster, Just a separate 12v PSU for some 12v Toys.
This solenoid for knocker, a "car-door-window-motor" for Gear, a Vibration motor (search for Type 775) for Shaker, some Siemens contactors for flipper/bumper/Droptarget
All dof Toys controlled by a "Rigmaster", it's a pinscape compatible kl25z Board.

[Tesla]

No Booster, Just a separate 12v PSU for some 12v Toys.
This solenoid for knocker, a "car-door-window-motor" for Gear, a Vibration motor (search for Type 775) for Shaker, some Siemens contactors for flipper/bumper/Droptarget
All dof Toys controlled by a "Rigmaster", it's a pinscape compatible kl25z Board.

 

Nice setup.

 

Yeah, while my ALP is mostly gutted, I kept the 12v Power-Supply installed. I figure it must be fairly powerful as it ran the whole ALP originally. I'm in the process of figuring out it's non-standard JST connectors and hopefully put it to use. It is outputting some 12v says my volt-meter.

 

I found the recommended 1N4007 Diodes on Amazon.

Edited by Tesla, 02 October 2025 - 01:44 AM.

[Tesla]

Here it is on the Amazon-USA website, even on Prime

 

https://www.amazon.c...B12M/ref=sr_1_1

 

Looks like this might be perfect, so thanks for the recommendation.

 

 

 

From Amazon, I ordered:

- that (still pretty loud) 12v solenoid

- What looks like a good "pre-built MOSFET board"

- Some 1N4007 Diodes (in an assortment) 

- Some hookup-wire (also an assortment kit ... because I'm tired of scrounging for it)

- Some breadboards for my JST-XH connectors

- Terminal-Strip assortment (I think I need one for my KL25x signal grounds ... 3 little pins ain't cutting it)

 

No easy turn-key kits for me ... just following MJR's manual and going old-school hardware-hack route.

Taking advantage of Amazon's (still a little slowish) "Star-Trek Transporter" Technology (aka Prime)

Edited by Tesla, 02 October 2025 - 01:35 AM.

[mjr]

Tesla - sounds like a good plan. Let us know how it goes when the parts start coming in.

 

I agree that a turnkey kit with a few of the high-priority toys would be great if someone offered it.  The recently closed Zeb's Boards at one point had a comprehensive feedback kit, and I think PinOne might offer something like that as well now, but something smaller-scale that just complements an existing SSF setup could be a good seller - adding just a few big things that SSF isn't good at, like knocker, shaker, and flashers.

 

> Finally ... so once I get this working in DOF, I assume it's going to stop making the

> "Pop a Game" sound over the speakers? (I'm hoping so).

 

Yes, you can do that, although it does take a manual step (the sound effect won't just go away on its own).  Open the VP Keys/Nudge/DOF dialog, go over to the DOF Controller Options section, and change Knocker from "Both" to "DOF".

Edited by mjr, 01 October 2025 - 06:31 PM.