10 replies to this topic

[djhamp]

I have been spending way too much time getting a old willams coin door to look good. Anyway I want to route the top groove in the side panels for the glass before I put things togethor. I tried looking at pictures but its hard to see any detail. Is it a 3/8 x 3/8 notch? And do you use a router for that (I am a little worried about the edge getting splinters)?

Does everyone use the plastic guides or?

The board is a little too big for my table saw or I would use that.

 

Also I am fuzzy on how the back of the cabinet works (end of the playfield glass, light bar area).

[freneticamnesic]

I used a router with a 1/16" bit. You have to eyeball the center of the wood, so try it on some scraps first to center it. Then you use the plastic channel guides to go into the slots. Here's the bit I used http://www.t-molding...tter-6700a.html

I used plywood on my cabinet and had no splintering. It just won't happen.

 

What do you mean about the back of the cabinet? Underneath the glass? 

[zebulon]

There's a plastic trim strip that goes at the back of the playfield that the glass slides into on the WPC machines.  On the older ones it's a combination of a metal strip screwed to the wooden strip at the back of the playfield area and a metal trim that mounts above that.

 

Plastic guides down the sides under the rails will make it easier for you in the long run but aren't 100% necessary. 

[gtxjoe]

Like this   http://www.marcospec...l-parts/03-8091

[mjr]

Anyway I want to route the top groove in the side panels for the glass before I put things togethor. I tried looking at pictures but its hard to see any detail. Is it a 3/8 x 3/8 notch? And do you use a router for that (I am a little worried about the edge getting splinters)?

Does everyone use the plastic guides or?

 

The plastic guides work nicely, and I'd recommend them, but you don't absolutely need them.  If you do use them, the trick to mounting them is to get hold of a specialized router bit called a groove cutter.  The exact model you need is the Freud 63-106 (http://www.amazon.co...h/dp/B0002TUCSE).  That's purpose built to make exactly the kind of groove you need in the edge of a piece of plywood - it'll cut a perfectly straight groove of the right width.

[djhamp]

Thanks all, i get it now - the pictures on the Marco site make sense. The pictures on virtuapin aren't clear enough to see how they work.
Looks like the guide would sit up on top of the edge with the one piece going into the grove? If I don't use the guide how do you do it? I was originally thinking of routing a 3/8 x 3/8 L shaped notch in the inside top edge, maybe putting some felt or something down or just silicone the glass in. A light bead would be easy to cut out if it ever needed changing.

[gtxjoe]

The L shaped notch would work.  Or just glue or nail a strip of 1/2" x 1/4" strip on top of the cab sides and you end up with the same L shaped notch.  The metal side rails will hide whatever you end up doing

Edited by gtxjoe, 24 April 2015 - 12:00 AM.

[mjr]

Thanks all, i get it now - the pictures on the Marco site make sense. The pictures on virtuapin aren't clear enough to see how they work.
Looks like the guide would sit up on top of the edge with the one piece going into the grove? If I don't use the guide how do you do it? I was originally thinking of routing a 3/8 x 3/8 L shaped notch in the inside top edge, maybe putting some felt or something down or just silicone the glass in. A light bead would be easy to cut out if it ever needed changing.

 

Whoa, I would strongly recommend against gluing it.  Easy maintenance access is critical.  You don't want to have to do anything destructive to get inside.  

 

If you really don't want to route the groove for the plastic guides (which is actually very easy if you have the special router blade I mentioned earlier), probably the next best thing is to cut the spine off the bottom of the guide and just glue or staple the guide to the cabinet.  That piece is okay to glue; there's no reason you should ever have to remove it for any routine maintenance work.  I think the groove routing is a heck of a lot easier myself, though.  You'd have to be really careful removing the spine not to crack the rest of the plastic, and I'm not sure you could get it attached as well with glue as with the spine/groove setup.

 

I don't think felt or direct grooves in the wood would work that well either.  The glass has kind of sharp edges and it's pretty heavy, so a smooth and tough channel for it to slide into is really useful - that's what the plastic guides give you.

Edited by mjr, 24 April 2015 - 12:18 AM.

[djhamp]

OK - you convinced me to go with the plastic guide! Its great you guys are willing to help out and give advice - thanks much!

[viktory2k1]

Yes, I was wondering about that area also.

I think the virtuapin hardware kit comes with that piece but longer for the widebody kit.

Edited by viktory2k1, 25 April 2015 - 11:41 PM.

[viktory2k1]

OK, I got my Freud 3/32" router bit just like the one listed. The slot is too wide, good thing I used scrap first. Now that I have the bit, I will buy a freud cutter 1/16", don't need the arbor.