297 replies to this topic

[mameman23]

Nice. Almost play time

[bladexdsl]

nice wheel

[DedRok_V]

Looks awesome dude.

[Darkfall]

Thanks, guys.

Off to downstairs to do wiring. Oh boy!

[bladexdsl]

i'm up to wiring too

[zebulon]

Looking good. The wiring's the worst of it (unless you're sic and twisted like maxsinner). Once you're past that, it's just the never ending tinkering. Great job!!!!

[Darkfall]

Looking good. The wiring's the worst of it (unless you're sic and twisted like maxsinner). Once you're past that, it's just the never ending tinkering. Great job!!!!

The wiring is coming along pretty good. Most of the messy stuff is done. I'm just figuring out what to do with the coin door. It has a 13-pin female IDC connector on it, and I'm thinking, "should I cut it off and replace it with something I actually like, like the ones I used for the backbox, or should I hunt down a male IDC connector and make a little board with screw terminals on it for connections?"

Part of me is thinking I should do the IDC connector route, but it's a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of making a board and stuff.

Alternatively, I could just cut the connector off and solder everything to the wires directly, but then it'd be a pain to take the door out, if I needed to (unlikely, but who knows).

The other issue with making a little board with the IDC connector on it is that the IDC pins are 3.98mm (0.156") apart, and most prototype boards are 3.5mm spacing, so I'd have to actually make a special board by hand, drill it, then use jumpers on the underside to connect the pins to the screw terminals (or etch a board, which is even more messing around). Bleah.

Edited by Darkfall, 10 August 2011 - 12:39 AM.

[zebulon]

Looking good. The wiring's the worst of it (unless you're sic and twisted like maxsinner). Once you're past that, it's just the never ending tinkering. Great job!!!!

The wiring is coming along pretty good. Most of the messy stuff is done. I'm just figuring out what to do with the coin door. It has a 13-pin female IDC connector on it, and I'm thinking, "should I cut it off and replace it with something I actually like, like the ones I used for the backbox, or should I hunt down a male IDC connector and make a little board with screw terminals on it for connections?"

Part of me is thinking I should do the IDC connector route, but it's a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of making a board and stuff.

Alternatively, I could just cut the connector off and solder everything to the wires directly, but then it'd be a pain to take the door out, if I needed to (unlikely, but who knows).

The other issue with making a little board with the IDC connector on it is that the IDC pins are 3.98mm (0.156") apart, and most prototype boards are 3.5mm spacing, so I'd have to actually make a special board by hand, drill it, then use jumpers on the underside to connect the pins to the screw terminals (or etch a board, which is even more messing around). Bleah.

Single row of pins or double? Maybe an ide ribbon cable and the block from an old drive (or even better, a floppy drive only used 26 pins I think).

[koklay2014]

Looking good. The wiring's the worst of it (unless you're sic and twisted like maxsinner). Once you're past that, it's just the never ending tinkering. Great job!!!!

The wiring is coming along pretty good. Most of the messy stuff is done. I'm just figuring out what to do with the coin door. It has a 13-pin female IDC connector on it, and I'm thinking, "should I cut it off and replace it with something I actually like, like the ones I used for the backbox, or should I hunt down a male IDC connector and make a little board with screw terminals on it for connections?"

Part of me is thinking I should do the IDC connector route, but it's a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of making a board and stuff.

Alternatively, I could just cut the connector off and solder everything to the wires directly, but then it'd be a pain to take the door out, if I needed to (unlikely, but who knows).

The other issue with making a little board with the IDC connector on it is that the IDC pins are 3.98mm (0.156") apart, and most prototype boards are 3.5mm spacing, so I'd have to actually make a special board by hand, drill it, then use jumpers on the underside to connect the pins to the screw terminals (or etch a board, which is even more messing around). Bleah.

This what I saw...

接線是磨磨蹭蹭不錯。大部分的雜亂的東西就完成了。我只是搞清楚什麼是與硬幣門。它有一個13針母IDC連接器就可以了，我在想，“我應該削減其關閉，取代它的東西其實我喜歡，喜歡的我用於 backbox，或者我應該追捕一名男性IDC連接器和使小板接線端子的連接就可以了？“

我想部分是我應該做的IDC連接器路由，但它是一個痛苦的屁股，我不敢肯定這是值得的麻煩使板和東西。

另外，我可以只關閉和切斷連接的電線焊一切直接，但隨後這將會是一個痛苦的走門了，如果我需要（不太可能，但誰知道）。

另一個問題與小板製作與 IDC連接器就可以了，就是IDC引腳3.98毫米（0.156“）外，大多數原型板3.5毫米間距，所以我必須實際作出特別板手，鑽孔，然後用跳線的底面連接引腳的螺絲端子（或蝕刻電路板，它更是插科打諢）。Bleah。

all joking aside it really looks great

[zebulon]

Looking good. The wiring's the worst of it (unless you're sic and twisted like maxsinner). Once you're past that, it's just the never ending tinkering. Great job!!!!

The wiring is coming along pretty good. Most of the messy stuff is done. I'm just figuring out what to do with the coin door. It has a 13-pin female IDC connector on it, and I'm thinking, "should I cut it off and replace it with something I actually like, like the ones I used for the backbox, or should I hunt down a male IDC connector and make a little board with screw terminals on it for connections?"

Part of me is thinking I should do the IDC connector route, but it's a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of making a board and stuff.

Alternatively, I could just cut the connector off and solder everything to the wires directly, but then it'd be a pain to take the door out, if I needed to (unlikely, but who knows).

The other issue with making a little board with the IDC connector on it is that the IDC pins are 3.98mm (0.156") apart, and most prototype boards are 3.5mm spacing, so I'd have to actually make a special board by hand, drill it, then use jumpers on the underside to connect the pins to the screw terminals (or etch a board, which is even more messing around). Bleah.

This what I saw...

接線是磨磨蹭蹭不錯。大部分的雜亂的東西就完成了。我只是搞清楚什麼是與硬幣門。它有一個13針母IDC連接器就可以了，我在想，“我應該削減其關閉，取代它的東西其實我喜歡，喜歡的我用於 backbox，或者我應該追捕一名男性IDC連接器和使小板接線端子的連接就可以了？“

我想部分是我應該做的IDC連接器路由，但它是一個痛苦的屁股，我不敢肯定這是值得的麻煩使板和東西。

另外，我可以只關閉和切斷連接的電線焊一切直接，但隨後這將會是一個痛苦的走門了，如果我需要（不太可能，但誰知道）。

另一個問題與小板製作與 IDC連接器就可以了，就是IDC引腳3.98毫米（0.156“）外，大多數原型板3.5毫米間距，所以我必須實際作出特別板手，鑽孔，然後用跳線的底面連接引腳的螺絲端子（或蝕刻電路板，它更是插科打諢）。Bleah。

all joking aside it really looks great

[DedRok_V]

Looking good. The wiring's the worst of it (unless you're sic and twisted like maxsinner). Once you're past that, it's just the never ending tinkering. Great job!!!!

The wiring is coming along pretty good. Most of the messy stuff is done. I'm just figuring out what to do with the coin door. It has a 13-pin female IDC connector on it, and I'm thinking, "should I cut it off and replace it with something I actually like, like the ones I used for the backbox, or should I hunt down a male IDC connector and make a little board with screw terminals on it for connections?"

Part of me is thinking I should do the IDC connector route, but it's a pain in the ass, and I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of making a board and stuff.

Alternatively, I could just cut the connector off and solder everything to the wires directly, but then it'd be a pain to take the door out, if I needed to (unlikely, but who knows).

The other issue with making a little board with the IDC connector on it is that the IDC pins are 3.98mm (0.156") apart, and most prototype boards are 3.5mm spacing, so I'd have to actually make a special board by hand, drill it, then use jumpers on the underside to connect the pins to the screw terminals (or etch a board, which is even more messing around). Bleah.

Just a suggestion.
How about getting the IDC connector pins and soldering the wires directly to them.
That way you can just plug it in and the door is still removable.
Or get a second hand board to suit the door you have.

I cant wait to start the wiring, does that make me as bad as Mxsnr.

[Darkfall]

Single row of pins or double? Maybe an ide ribbon cable and the block from an old drive (or even better, a floppy drive only used 26 pins I think).

It was a single row 13-pin female IDC connector (only 11 pins in use, though). In the end, I cut the thing off, found a 24-pin power extension for a PC power supply that I had hanging around, hacked it in two, cut the wires short (maybe 1cm, so I wouldn't see the old wire colors once I soldered my wires on and protected the join with heat shrink tubing), Dremelled the connector down to 12 pins, chopped off the IDC connector, and soldered all of my wires to my new custom connector with some heat shrink tubing. It worked out pretty good.

This what I saw...

接線是磨磨蹭蹭不錯。大部分的雜亂的東西就完成了。我只是搞清楚什麼是與硬幣門。它有一個13針母IDC連接器就可以了，我在想，“我應該削減其關閉，取代它的東西其實我喜歡，喜歡的我用於 backbox，或者我應該追捕一名男性IDC連接器和使小板接線端子的連接就可以了？“

我想部分是我應該做的IDC連接器路由，但它是一個痛苦的屁股，我不敢肯定這是值得的麻煩使板和東西。

另外，我可以只關閉和切斷連接的電線焊一切直接，但隨後這將會是一個痛苦的走門了，如果我需要（不太可能，但誰知道）。

另一個問題與小板製作與 IDC連接器就可以了，就是IDC引腳3.98毫米（0.156“）外，大多數原型板3.5毫米間距，所以我必須實際作出特別板手，鑽孔，然後用跳線的底面連接引腳的螺絲端子（或蝕刻電路板，它更是插科打諢）。Bleah。

all joking aside it really looks great

That's damn funny! Thanks for the compliment.

Just a suggestion.
How about getting the IDC connector pins and soldering the wires directly to them.
That way you can just plug it in and the door is still removable.
Or get a second hand board to suit the door you have.

I cant wait to start the wiring, does that make me as bad as Mxsnr.

Good ideas, but in the end, my custom connector worked out nice. I'm happy.

No one - I mean NO ONE - is as bad as Maxx!


Wiring for the front of the machine is pretty much done. I decided to use the slam tilt sensor in the coin door, so that's one less mercury switch I'll be using.


I powered everything while I was wiring, so I could see if my LED connections were good. Even though the LEDWiz isn't receiving power, it apparently has a few random outputs turned on. My flipper buttons came on, as did my Launch Ball button - the Start button didn't, though. I'll trace the wire for that one, just to be sure it's going to the right place - but I'm pretty sure it is. The right flipper buttons aren't on because I disconnected them to stick the power on the wires.


You can see my fancy custom coin door connector to the right of the door, with the red heat shrink on each wire going into the connector on both sides. That's my aligator clips on the left, coming from my test power supply, so I could see things lit up. Oddly, the lit flipper buttons on the right look red in the photo - they're yellow, actually. The yellow wire on the right, laying on the floor and going nowhere is the coin door open/close. I've yet to come up with a switch that'll trip as the door is opened, then again when it's closed. I have something in mind, but it's not in there yet.

[Flying Dutchman]

Darkfall .. the coindoor wiring looks neat .. something I did not do yet.
Is it a pre-wired Bally/Williams coin door?

Could you please take some close up pics of it I could use as an example?

Great one!

Cheers,
FD.

Edited by Flying Dutchman, 10 August 2011 - 07:08 AM.

[Darkfall]

Darkfall .. the coindoor wiring looks neat .. something I did not do yet.
Is it a pre-wired Bally/Williams coin door?

Could you please take some close up pics of it I could use as an example?

Great one!

Cheers,
FD.

Hey, FD.

Yes, it was prewired when it arrived (ordered it through Noah - same one PinballLife sells). All I did was change the coin slot lights to LEDs and add the coin mechanisms - and, of course, hack off the original 13-pin IDC connector in favor of my own connector *grin*.

Here are more detailed photos. I uploaded at full resolution, so you can see things as well as possible (just click the image's thumbnail below). I wasn't sure if you wanted photos of just the connector, or the whole coin door - so I did both. The close up connector photos turned out to be a tad blurry (too close, I assume), but you can see it. If you want clearer photos, or photos of something specific, let me know.

Edited by Darkfall, 10 August 2011 - 07:49 AM.

[bladexdsl]

can you take a pic of how the service buttons are wired up cos that's the same one i have and there's quite a few connectors on it.

Edited by bladexdsl, 10 August 2011 - 05:57 PM.

[maxxsinner]

I cant wait to start the wiring, does that make me as bad as Mxsnr.

No one - I mean NO ONE - is as bad as Maxx!

I am trying to seek professional help for my affliction if thats any help gents......

Wiring is looking great there Darkfall.

@Bladex the service buttons are prewired on the coin door into the 13 pin connector for the coin door. All the wires are colour coded so you can just trace them.

[bladexdsl]

mine isn't it's not part of a door and has 6 connectors per button?

Edited by bladexdsl, 10 August 2011 - 08:09 PM.

[maxxsinner]

Will reply on your thread Bladex so Darkfall can keep his thread clean.

[Darkfall]

Just a quick post so I don't lose the following information that I found helpful.

The attached PDF explains how to disable the Windows boot screen and edit the logon screen background. It also explains how to set up auto logon with a password and how to set HyperPin to start automatically. Those last two I knew, but the first two have elegant solutions in the PDF, which I appreciated. Thanks to Flying Dutchman from drawing my attention to the document, and Blitz17 for authoring the document.

The other thing I wanted to do was set different backgrounds on each display without installing software hacks. It turns out there is a way with Windows 7, as explained in this link. EDIT: I failed to notice that this trick is Windows XP only. I did find some stuff for Windows 7 involving joining images together as one huge backdrop image, and using that in tile mode - something to play with when I have screens connected.

Nice.

Attached Files

•  AAAA___Boot_straight_to_HyperPin_v1.2.pdf   416.74KB   152 downloads

Edited by Darkfall, 16 August 2011 - 08:51 AM.

[Darkfall]

Hi. guys,

New photos are coming - just nailing down a few things first:

• 4 more flasher domes on the topper for strobes are ready to install (I have to modify them all first - did that tonight).
• Finishing some wiring.
• Added 2 pinball bobs for tilt sensing.
• Found some cheap contactors at Mouser that I think may work ($13!) - ordered 8. We'll see! Should be here by end of week.
• Will use one of my solenoids for the extra game knocker (the other 7 will be...err..."spares" *grin*).
• LED strips are here. Not sure if I'll have them on all the time, or in line with the strobes.
• AC power stuff is done - I have a power plug on the back, and it seems to work (ie: no fires!).
• Custom control panel for PC power switch, night mode switch, main power switch, speaker power, speaker volume, headphone jack, and 4 x USB3.0 ports mostly done and ready to mount under front lip. I broke the main power switch while fitting it into the plastic piece I was making, so I need to replace it.

I'm very close to being able to play the thing! Once the above is installed, I'll be able to slip the TVs in and fire it up. All I'll need then is glass for the playfield and backglass, and my artwork printed and installed. Sooo close!

Photos to follow in the next day or so.