734 replies to this topic

[mjr]

I did the reset to default in windows control panel for the controller.

I do not see a 'plunger button' in the Pinscape Controller settings?? Is there a different version? All I see is "select controller" (there's only 1) "settings" (Select LED Wiz Number which matches my unit number/enable Plunger sensor is checked),

"begin plunger calibration" (if clicked shows a popup box with instructions for calibration. That window never closes but the LED's respond as expected on the Freescale."View CCD Exposure causes the config app to crash in my case presumably because it doesn't have a CCD to read.

 

No, it should show you the plunger reading from the potentiometer in the plunger window.

 

From your description, I'm pretty sure you must have the old v1 setup tool.  That's old and out of date.  You should get the latest, here: http://www.mjrnet.or...eConfigTool.zip

 

Once you get that installed, run it and go to the Settings page.  Find the Plunger section, and check the Plunger Type drop down list to make sure it's set to Potentiometer.  Also make sure the port matches your wiring.

 

On the very front page, in the list of icons for your device, one of the icons should be a plunger.  That's the plunger setup page.  You should be able to view the raw potentiometer data there.  That's where you need to confirm that you're seeing valid plunger behavior first.  If it's not working there, it won't work anywhere else.

 

Since it sounds like you're running the old config tool, you might also want to make sure you have the latest firmware as well.  The new config tool will automatically check and show you if a newer version is available.  You can use the "Update" option (also in the row of icons in the device list) to install the new version.  Note that you should be doing updates through the new config tool, NOT by dragging and dropping via the Windows desktop.

Edited by mjr, 23 February 2017 - 06:11 AM.

[tgx]

Of course I have the wrong Config Tool, just goes with all the other outdated stuff that I ran across.

Will try this new version. Thanks for helping me down the right path.

 

[mjr]

Of course I have the wrong Config Tool, just goes with all the other outdated stuff that I ran across.

Will try this new version. Thanks for helping me down the right path.

 

Great, let me know how it goes.

[tgx]

Downloaded the file from your link unfortunately it does the same thing. I don't see any of these settings or windows you are talking about.

There are no plunger readings, no icons, just as I described originally.

 

 

 All I see is "select controller" (there's only 1) "settings" (Select LED Wiz Number which matches my unit number/enable Plunger sensor is checked),

"begin plunger calibration" opens a dialog explaining what to do.

I found a thread on your V2 tool and what I have still looks like V1. Did your file at the download location get overwritten or is the link correct for V2?

 

Edited by tgx, 25 February 2017 - 12:04 AM.

[mjr]

Downloaded the file from your link unfortunately it does the same thing. I don't see any of these settings or windows you are talking about.

There are no plunger readings, no icons, just as I described originally.

 

I think you might have something wrong with your browser caching, or maybe you just have an old file sitting around.  I just checked the link posted earlier and it appears to be the new one (unless *I* have something wrong with *my* browser caching, of course!).  

Try this:

 

1.  Search your hard disk for all copies of the existing PinscapeConfigTool.exe.  Delete all copies you find.

 

2.  Search for any copies of the old zip file as well, and delete those.

 

3.  Download the new Zip file again.  Here's the link again:  http://www.mjrnet.or...eConfigTool.zip

 

4.  Extract everything in the Zip file to a new folder.

 

5.  Check the folder.  There should the PinscapeConfigTool.exe, plus a couple of other application files (NightMode.exe, PinscapeConfigToolUpdater.exe), and an "html" folder.  If you don't have all of that, you *still* don't have the new version.

 

6.  If everything's there, you should get the new UI by running the PinscapeConfigTool.exe that's there.

 

Let me know!

[tgx]

Qapla'! Success!

 

Tried another browser.

[tgx]

okay so, flippers check, plunger check....nudge?

What are some recommended settings for this?

[mjr]

okay so, flippers check, plunger check....nudge?

What are some recommended settings for this?

 

For VP9, the nudge X/Y "gain" settings should be around 1000, give or take.  You really have to experiment a little to find the right settings, because the actual effect can vary a little depending on system speed, plus it's a bit subjective how strong an effect you want.

 

For VP10, it needs to be much lower, order of 10 to 100.  Again, you'll have to experiment to get exact numbers for your system based on what feels right to you.

Edited by mjr, 25 February 2017 - 09:39 PM.

[tgx]

Cool thanks for the tips. One new thing I discovered last night. If I enable the 'shift key' function and use my left flipper button

as the shift key it negatively affects the flipper action. Actually, it makes it unplayable. A huge delay is introduced during gameplay

for the left flipper action.

 

The workaround of course is not to use the flipper button as a shift key. Just thought I would report it.

[mjr]

Cool thanks for the tips. One new thing I discovered last night. If I enable the 'shift key' function and use my left flipper button

as the shift key it negatively affects the flipper action. Actually, it makes it unplayable. A huge delay is introduced during gameplay

for the left flipper action.

 

The workaround of course is not to use the flipper button as a shift key. Just thought I would report it.

 

Right - you definitely don't want to do that!  The Shift button has to delay sending its key until you RELEASE the button.  Here's how it works:

 

1.  Press the Shift button: nothing happens yet, because we don't know if it's going to be used as a Shift button or a normal button.

 

Release the Shift button WITHOUT pressing any other key in the meantime: the ordinary key assigned to the Shift button is sent to the PC.

 

or:

 

2.  Press the Shift button: again, nothing happens yet.

 

Hold the Shift button.

 

Press ANOTHER key while holding the Shift button.  The SHIFTED key assigned to the OTHER button is sent to the PC.

 

Release the Shift button: nothing happens.  The button press was used as a shift function INSTEAD OF its normal key function, so it doesn't send any key press.

 

As a result, you have to pick a button for Shift that doesn't need an immediate response.  I recommend one of the less frequently used buttons, such as Extra Ball or Coin In.

Edited by mjr, 27 February 2017 - 11:01 PM.

[kiwiBri]

Hi,

I have a question regarding the 2 LEDs that are suggested to provide the light for the optical sensor. Based on the original build guide, I got the 2 blue LEDs and because I am a noob at electronics, I was wondering how to wire these LEDs up? Can they just be powered from a 5V source or do they need a resistor to limit current ?  

I did read about the first 15 pages of this thread but its mainly the early stages of development that I found... 

 

thanks

[mjr]

I have a question regarding the 2 LEDs that are suggested to provide the light for the optical sensor. Based on the original build guide, I got the 2 blue LEDs and because I am a noob at electronics, I was wondering how to wire these LEDs up? Can they just be powered from a 5V source or do they need a resistor to limit current ?  

 

Yes, a resistor is needed.  You basically always need a resistor with an LED.  The only exception, and it's not really an exception, is when the resistor is built in to the device, like they are in the 5050 RGB light strips.  There's still a resistor in that case, so it's not really an exception to the rule, it's just that you don't have to add one of your own if it's built-in.

 

To figure out what size resistor to use, plug the stats for your LED into an LED calculator such as http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz.  That will tell you the Ohms and Watts rating required.  Blue LEDs are usually 20mA at about 3.2V, which works out to a 100 ohm 1/8W resistor with a 5V power supply.

 

By the way, I'd actually recommend trying a single LED first, and only add the second one if you can't get enough contrast in the image.  The downside of two LEDs is that the shadow won't be as sharp since the light source will be more spread out.

[RIJOSROBERTO]

hello hope all is well , i was planning on doing the same pinball plunger set up that you made it looks awesome by the way and thank you for all the programing and pics and descriptions and help , i ran into an issue tho , that sensor is discontinued , and i cant find it i was thinking if i can find out what its originally used for may-bey i can get the divice and take it out of it and use it , unless theirs another one that can be used ? thank you for your time and all of your help ,

[mjr]

hello hope all is well , i was planning on doing the same pinball plunger set up that you made it looks awesome by the way and thank you for all the programing and pics and descriptions and help , i ran into an issue tho , that sensor is discontinued , and i cant find it i was thinking if i can find out what its originally used for may-bey i can get the divice and take it out of it and use it , unless theirs another one that can be used ? thank you for your time and all of your help ,

 

Yes, unfortunately, the manufacturer discontinued the TSL1410R a couple of years ago, and they're impossible to find now.  They seem to have gotten out of the optical imaging sensor business entirely, which is quite sad since it was such a perfect fit for pinball.  I guess there aren't enough people building virtual pinball machines to keep them in business!

 

Fortunately, there are two good alternatives:

 

1.  Slide potentiometer.  This is pretty simple to set up, and everyone who's built one seems to like it.  You can use any slide pot with the following characteristics:  about 10K ohms overall resistance, linear taper, about 100mm slide travel length.

 

(The "linear taper" part is crucially important.  That means that the device's resistance varies linearly with position.  There's a different kind called "audio taper" or "log taper" that varies logarithmically with position.  The audio taper type won't produce the right results because the software assumes a linear taper.  Be sure the device specs explicitly say it's linear.)

 

There's a pointer to a suitable part in the Build Guide parts list (http://mjrnet.org/pi...p?sid=partslist), but you don't have to use that specific part, just something with roughly the same specs.

 

2.  AEDR-8300.  This is more complex to set up, but it's a high-precision digital optical sensor that produces really excellent resolution and stability.  Better even than the TSL1410R.  You can read more about it in this thread:  

 

http://www.vpforums....showtopic=37477

 

...and in the Build Guide:  

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...xx&sid=aedr8300.

Edited by mjr, 23 September 2017 - 12:39 AM.

[RIJOSROBERTO]

hi thank you for getting back to me , thank god theirs at least something that can be used that's compatible with your software iam ok at soldiering just not good at figuring out exactly whats needed exactly since iam a complete novice to these things so please bare with me ,from the list of things that i need from mouser, lets start off from the  Slide potentiometer according to the list all i need is since i already ordered the micro controller board all i would need is  to put it together and make it work ? besides the programing of the micro controller of course. ???
 
  R1 Slide potentiometer, 10K ohm, 100mm travel 688-RSA0N11S9A0K
 
 
 
 
and for,
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the AEDR-8300 all i would need is the micro controller which  i already ordered then program it and the following to put it together and make it work besides having the board made where the components will be soderd too, ? and i have to have the 3d pieces ordered as well  ,
 
 
 
  OK1 AEDR-8300 optical encoder, 75 LPI 630-AEDR-8300-1K2   R1 220 ohm resistor 660-MF1/4DCT52R2200F   R2 2.7K resistor 660-MFS1/4DCT52R2701   R3 2.7K resistor 660-MFS1/4DCT52R2701
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Edited by RIJOSROBERTO, 23 September 2017 - 02:41 PM.

[mjr]

lets start off from the  Slide potentiometer according to the list all i need is since i already ordered the micro controller board all i would need is  to put it together and make it work ? besides the programing of the micro controller of course. ???

 

Right.  The potentiometer connects to the microcontroller (KL25Z) with three wires.  That's all you need electrically.  The only other thing you need to do is come up with some way to arrange it all mechanically so that the plunger moves the pot control lever.

 

 

 the AEDR-8300 all i would need is the micro controller which  i already ordered then program it and the following to put it together and make it work besides having the board made where the components will be soderd too, ? and i have to have the 3d pieces ordered as well  ,
 
 OK1 AEDR-8300 optical encoder, 75 LPI 630-AEDR-8300-1K2   R1 220 ohm resistor 660-MF1/4DCT52R2200F   R2 2.7K resistor 660-MFS1/4DCT52R2701   R3 2.7K resistor 660-MFS1/4DCT52R2701

 

That's everything electrically.  You also need the mirrored acrylic piece and the printed transparency film.  You'll probably also want to have some solder paste on hand to install the AEDR-8300 device onto the circuit board - see the section on assembling the board.  (Solder paste is different from ordinary solder.  It's a special mixture of solder and a sort of glue that's helpful for installing surface-mount devices like this.)

[RIJOSROBERTO]

awesome thank you ,  i ordered  the  potentiometer from the link that you gave me from the parts list that's in mouser , il play around with that one for now and then later on , if it doesn't feel right ill get the parts and head straight on into building the other one ,  and ill definitly keep you posted ,  i truly appreciate all of your help .

[mjr]

awesome thank you ,  i ordered  the  potentiometer from the link that you gave me from the parts list that's in mouser , il play around with that one for now and then later on , if it doesn't feel right ill get the parts and head straight on into building the other one ,  and ill definitly keep you posted ,  i truly appreciate all of your help .

 

That sounds like a great plan.  The potentiometer is cheap and easy, so it's not a big gamble to try it out.

[RIJOSROBERTO]

so true , plus i can learn more and once i feel comfortable , i can upgrade , lol ,

[RIJOSROBERTO]

if your still looking for the micro controller i bought mines here just came in yesterday ,

 

 

https://www.arrow.co...-semiconductors