975 replies to this topic

[mjr]

A new version of the firmware and config tool are now available.  This is a pretty big update, so it'll probably take a couple of iterations before I work all the bugs out - if you run into any problems with it, let me know.  And if you run into anything that you can't work around until I can fix it, you can always back out to the previous version.  To make that easier, there's a new page with archived versions here: http://mjrnet.org/pi.../swversions.php

 

- Support for the new AEDR-8300 quadrature plunger sensor option (http://www.vpforums....showtopic=37477)

 

- Support for another new sensor option, the VL6180X distance sensor.  A number of people have asked about using some kind of IR distance sensor, since it's such an obvious good fit in principle (and in fact some of the commercial plunger kits use similar sensors, although I don't think anyone is using this particular one).  The VL6180X looks like the best current sensor of its kind.  It's basically a LIDAR device that sends out IR "pings" and measures the round-trip travel time, which translates to distance since the speed of light in air is a known quantity.  Unfortunately, I have to recommend against this new option, because it has terrible accuracy compared with any of the other Pinscape sensor options.  It's only accurate to about +/- 5mm, which is only about 2 or 3 "dpi" resolution.  I consider around 60dpi to be the minimum acceptable resolution.  The only thing going for this sensor is that it's fairly cheap and easy to set up.  So the support for it is there for anyone who wants to try it out, but it's probably not going to be a very satisfying option for most people.

 

- A new configurable "jitter filter" for the plunger.  This was motivated by the VL6180X, which really needs it because of its poor accuracy, but it could also help with other sensors if you have any jitter.  The TSL1410R can jitter a bit, for example, because the shadow edge is usually a little fuzzy.  The jitter filter is basically a hysteresis filter: you set a window size, and the firmware ignores small variations in readings within the window.  It's disabled by default, so it won't change your system's current behavior out of the box, but you can enable it if you want via the Plunger Viewer window in the setup tool.

 

- Support for a new external PWM controller chip, the TLC59116.  This is a successor to the TLC5940 used in the expansion boards, but it's much more modern and greatly improved.  There's no real need for this right now, since we have the TLC5940, but TI stopped making the DIP version of that a couple of years ago, so at some point those will get hard to find.  This is basically a bit of future-proofing for when we have to move to a more modern chip.

[Kaleo]

Hello MJR,

 

There is a little bug in this last update of the Pinscape setup, I was unable to disable TV ON switch feature. 

- I uncheck "enable"

- I click on "Program KL25Z"

- after the update the TV ON switch still on "enable".

 

The workaround is to set "Power status input", "Status latch output" and "Relay output" to "Not Connected" and program the KL25Z.

 

Best Regards,

 

Kaléo.

[kiwiBri]

Hello MJR,

 

There is a little bug in this last update of the Pinscape setup, I was unable to disable TV ON switch feature. 

- I uncheck "enable"

- I click on "Program KL25Z"

- after the update the TV ON switch still on "enable".

 

The workaround is to set "Power status input", "Status latch output" and "Relay output" to "Not Connected" and program the KL25Z.

 

Best Regards,

 

Kaléo.

 

 

I believe this worked the same way in the last version. I had noticed this earlier in the week actually

[mjr]

 

Hello MJR,

 

There is a little bug in this last update of the Pinscape setup, I was unable to disable TV ON switch feature. 

- I uncheck "enable"

- I click on "Program KL25Z"

- after the update the TV ON switch still on "enable".

 

The workaround is to set "Power status input", "Status latch output" and "Relay output" to "Not Connected" and program the KL25Z.

 

Best Regards,

 

Kaléo.

 

 

I believe this worked the same way in the last version. I had noticed this earlier in the week actually

 

KiwiBri - you did point this out, but I must have thought we were talking about something else, since I mistakenly thought it wasn't a bug.  I just took another look (at the right thing this time, hopefully), and it does look like a bug in the setup tool.  I'll fix it.

[mjr]

 

 

Alternatively, it's possible for the PC to send a command via USB to the KL25Z to trigger an IR send.  I haven't written a front end program to access that feature yet, but it's pretty straightforward, so I should be able to get to it fairly soon if you want to go that route.  You could use that to have your PC trigger the IR command at some point during system startup, via an autoexec command file or a Startup shortcut.

 

 

I use a standalone KL25Z and your last proposition seems to be perfect for me. As I have a shortcut button now to start my TV, I can wait for this little improvement.

 

A new update is available that adds this capability.

 

There's a new program in the Config Tool folder called PinscapeCmd.exe.  This is a little tool that lets you send special commands to the KL25Z - specifically, it can turn night mode on and off, pulse the TV relay, and send preprogrammed IR commands.  Run it with no command line arguments to get a list of the options.  

 

It's designed as a command line tool to make it easy to use for automated tasks.  In your case, to send IR commands at system startup, you could create a Startup shortcut.  The arguments for sending an IR command are like this:

 

PinscapeCmd SendIR=1 SendIR=2

 

That sends the IR command programmed into slot 1, then sends the command in slot 2.  The slot numbers are the same as in the settings in the config tool.

[Kaleo]

 

A new update is available that adds this capability.

 

There's a new program in the Config Tool folder called PinscapeCmd.exe.  This is a little tool that lets you send special commands to the KL25Z - specifically, it can turn night mode on and off, pulse the TV relay, and send preprogrammed IR commands.  Run it with no command line arguments to get a list of the options.  

 

It's designed as a command line tool to make it easy to use for automated tasks.  In your case, to send IR commands at system startup, you could create a Startup shortcut.  The arguments for sending an IR command are like this:

 

PinscapeCmd SendIR=1 SendIR=2

 

That sends the IR command programmed into slot 1, then sends the command in slot 2.  The slot numbers are the same as in the settings in the config tool.

 

 

Many thanks!

It is perfect with the Quiet option!

 

Kaléo.

[mjr]

Another update to the firmware and config tool today!

 

This one's a small update that just adds one feature:  a new "Flipper Logic" option for output ports.  

 

Flipper Logic emulates the way real pinball flipper coils work.  In virtually all real pinballs, the flipper coils are actually two separate coils in one package: a super high power "lift" coil that provides the strong mechanical force needed to lift the flipper from the rest position and propel the ball, and a lower power "hold" coil that only provides enough force to hold the flipper in the upward position.  To control which coil fires when, the flipper mechanism has an end-of-stroke switch that diverts power from the lift coil to the hold coil as soon as the flipper reached the top of its arc.  Why this complex arrangement?  Because the lift coil is so powerful that it would get blazingly hot and melt its own wires if you left it on for more than a split second at a time.  But of course you have to keep the flipper up as long as the player keeps holding the button.  So how do you do this without melting the lift coil?  By switching to the hold coil.  The trick is that it doesn't take nearly as much mechanical force to merely hold the flipper up, so the hold coil can run at much lower power - low enough that it won't overheat even if you leave it on for long periods.

 

The new Flipper Logic output port option emulates this behavior in software.  Rather than using two physical coils, it's designed to work with a single coil, doing the same kind of power management via PWM.  

When you designate a port as a Flipper Logic port, you get to specify two parameters: an "initial time" setting and a "hold power" setting.  The initial time is the amount of time the output is allowed to have full power when first energized.  This can range from 50ms to 800ms (milliseconds, or 1000ths of a second: 50ms is 1/20 of a second).  The hold power is the reduced PWM power level to apply after the initial time expires.

 

The point of this new feature is to give cab builders more options for feedback devices, especially for flippers.  Cab builders have traditionally been limited to devices like contactors for flipper emulation, since contactors are designed to be left on for long periods.  The goal of Flipper Logic is to make it possible to use devices that you couldn't consider before because of the heating issue.  

 

Note that you can also set the hold power to 0%.  That can be used to emulate the Pinscape "chime board", which uses a hardware timer on each port to cut off power to the port if it gets stuck on.  The 0% setting does exactly the same thing: if the software leaves the port energized for more than the initial time, the software simply turns off power to the port.  This is perfect for devices like replay knockers and chimes that have absolutely no business being turned on for longer than that in the first place.  It's probably also a reasonable setting for virtual bumpers and slingshots, since those really shouldn't ever be left on for any length of time either.

[NobodyYouKnow]

As always, nicely done, Mike. You are a true asset to this hobby.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Gribnif]

Hi mjr,

 

I'm trying to use the flasher portion of the expansion board to connect traditional lamps (not LEDs) for a few cabinet buttons, and am not having any luck for a couple of reasons:

 

1. The config tool doesn't seem to provide a way of testing these outputs. It only seems to handle the TLC5940 pins. Am I missing something?

 

2. How do I configure DOF to handle these ports? I have to admit that, while I am probably one of the few humans still alive who can program a VCR, I can't figure out the DOF docs. It's really unclear how they pertain to Pinscape, or even what configuration I'm supposed to put where. The wide array of DOF config programs and testers in the ZIP file doesn't help any, either.

[mjr]

Hi mjr,

 

I'm trying to use the flasher portion of the expansion board to connect traditional lamps (not LEDs) for a few cabinet buttons, and am not having any luck for a couple of reasons:

 

1. The config tool doesn't seem to provide a way of testing these outputs. It only seems to handle the TLC5940 pins. Am I missing something?

 

2. How do I configure DOF to handle these ports? I have to admit that, while I am probably one of the few humans still alive who can program a VCR, I can't figure out the DOF docs. It's really unclear how they pertain to Pinscape, or even what configuration I'm supposed to put where. The wide array of DOF config programs and testers in the ZIP file doesn't help any, either.

 

The config tool can test all output ports - if you click the Outputs button in the device listing on the front page, it should bring up the general output tester, which will let you turn any of your ports on and off.

 

If that correspond to what you're seeing, send me a screen shot of the Settings page section with the output list and a screen shot of the Output port tester and I'll see if I can figure out the problem.

 

I feel your pain on the DOF documentation - I honestly think it's easier to understand DOF by reading the source code than the documentation, and that's actually how I've figured a number of things out about it.  I will eventually get around to adding what will hopefully be more practical and usable DOF instructions to the new build guide.  I'll try to summarize the basics, though.  The first step is to set up your output ports in the Pinscape config tool.  For each port, make a note of the specific device attached (or that you plan to attach) - "left flipper contactor", "top right bumper", "Start button light", etc.  You can use the handy "description" box in the latest version of the config tool for these annotations.  The second step is to go to the DOF config tool, at The URL That Must Not Be Named (just google "dof config tool" if you don't know what the heck I'm talking  about).  Go to the "My Account" page and tell it you have one Pinscape Device (and ZERO KL25Z devices - "KL25Z device" is the older version).  Save. Go to Port Assignments.  This will give you a godawful huge array of drop-down boxes.  What you need to do here is basically reiterate the device list you created in the Pinscape config tool, so it'll be helpful if you have both windows open now.  For each port in the Pinscape tool, assign the same device type to the same port number in the DOF config tool.  Save.  Click Generate Config.  This will create and download a ZIP file containing a couple of .ini files.  Unzip these into the DOF folder on your PC.  Make sure you exit out of all Visual Pinball windows.  Now you should be able to fire up VP and test.

Edited by mjr, 23 May 2017 - 02:59 AM.

[kiwiBri]

Thanks MJR. Your post totally cleared up the confusion I have been having with getting DOF working in my build.

 

For anyone reading, I installed DOF to C:\DirectOutput    and then the .ZIP file I created, I unzipped to C:\DirectOutput\Config

 

Theres about 5 or 6 locations that DOF checks for the configuration files. I found it easy to keep it there , and associated with the DirectOutput folder. 

[xav1971]

Hello Mike,
I am building my pinball cab using a KL25Z plugged into an relativly old computer (2013, mother board Z 89 C). Windows 7 64b is installed on it. Update pinscape controller is installed. I have also 10 contactors connected via a simple relay card.
My problem is that the card is sometimes disconnected when I played whatever the USB port I used. I improved the stabilty by using a simple USB hub (I tried both with and without power but no difference), but I still have disconection sometimes. I tried also to install a PCI-USB card but the problem still remains. Same thing using USB3/driver updatre softwares for the mother board.
The problem may arrive after a few secondes or after a few minutes. 
Any idea to solve this problem ?
I have plan ton upgrade to windows 10 (different USB driver i guess) ? May it solve the problem ?
Thank you for the great job you are doing and sharing.

Xavier

Edited by xav1971, 01 June 2017 - 11:49 AM.

[kiwiBri]

I have plan ton upgrade to windows 10 (different USB driver i guess) ? May it solve the problem ?
 

 

Will your older PC hardware be supported in Windows 10 with a new driver? Often they use the same legacy driver. Reading what you posted you've done all the things I would have done...  have you changed the USB cable by chance? there can be differences with some cables, and also perhaps the cable you are using could be damaged.

[xav1971]

Thank you kiwiBri for your reply.

I used the computer of my son to check that the combo contactors/relay card/KL cards  works properly. And it is the case, no disconnection either appears.

Windows 10 is installed on this computer, but this is the computer of my son

I will try with a new usb cable, thank you for your suggestion.

Edited by xav1971, 01 June 2017 - 04:27 PM.

[mjr]

Update pinscape controller is installed. I have also 10 contactors connected via a simple relay card.

My problem is that the card is sometimes disconnected when I played whatever the USB port I used. 

 

Does the disconnect always happen *during* play?  

 

If so, I'd suspect that it's electrical interference from the relays and/or contactors.  The most typical symptoms of electrical interference are random keyboard input and random USB disconnects.

 

The solution is usually to add diodes to all of your contactors, motors, relays, and anything else with a solenoid, coil, or motor - basically anything mechanical.  More details here: http://mjrnet.org/pi....php?sid=diodes

 

If that's not it, there are other possibilities.  Are you using a separate power supply for the feedback devices, or are they all on the single PC power supply?  If they're on one power supply, it might help to add a second one for the devices.  

 

If none of this helps, any more detail you have about your setup might help spur some more ideas.

[xav1971]

I didn't observe any disconnection other than during play. But I can not certify it. I will check it. Sometimes it works during more than one hour. 

I already have diode connected on contactors.

But, my relay card use the USB power from the KL25Z card to work. Maybe the problem come from here.

I will try to power it using an external power supply.

I am going to try these different solutions this week-end.

Thank you Mike and KiwiBri for your help. I will keep you inform.

Once again, thanks Mike for the great soft you provided to the community      

Edited by xav1971, 01 June 2017 - 08:34 PM.

[mjr]

I didn't observe any disconnection other than during play. But I can not certify it. I will check it. Sometimes it works during more than one hour. 

I already have diode connected on contactors.

But, my relay card use the USB power from the KL25Z card to work. Maybe the problem come from here.

I will try to power it using an external power supply.

 

I think that's a really good idea to try.  It's quite plausible that you're occasionally overloading the USB ports with the relay board during play.  That won't damage anything, but it will cause the USB port to briefly disconnect, so it could definitely explain what's happening.

 

USB ports have pretty limited power handling - 500mA max in a USB 2 port, 900mA max in a USB 3 port.  The KL25Z itself doesn't use very much of that budget (probably about 50mA max), but each of your relays probably draws in the neighborhood of 100mA, and there can be a little surge above that each time they turn on.  So I could easily believe you're overloading the USB port at random moments during play when a bunch of things fire at the same time.  It would only take maybe three relays turning on at once to spike above 500mA.  And disconnection is exactly what I'd expect to happen if you draw too much power - USB ports have built-in "circuit breakers" that cut off power to the port if the current draw goes above the limit.

 

Hopefully providing some external power will solve it for you.

[xav1971]

Thank you Mike for this complete explanation.

I will check it tomorrow and give you the result.

Thank you for all the time and effort you have put into answering me

[Joppnl]

Thank you Mike for this complete explanation.

I will check it tomorrow and give you the result.

Thank you for all the time and effort you have put into answering me

 

In an other scenario I was having weird problems too when the DOF activators where active (I can switch them on/off).

 

If possible you might want to check it if the problem disappears when switching the activators off (if you can do so).

 

Inm y case it was the (el-cheapo) USB cable itself.  It had no electrical isolation at all and very very thin wires. which picked up randomly sometimes the electro magnetic pulses from the contactors causing the PC to do strange things.

 

Replacing this cable by a self made good isolated one resolved the problem.

 

May-be a thought for you... :-)  

[xav1971]

Thanks Joppnl and Mike,

ok so I tried first to use an external power for the relay card.

Unfortunetly, the same problem arrived: disconnected after a few minutes

Then I changed to an other USB cable. I used and old one with a kind of ferrite core around the cable. The problem get worse.

The KL25Z disconnect, reconnect, disconnect and so on. So I really have an instability caused by the cable/inteferrence.

I am going to buy a new one with improved properties.

Joppnl, you mentionned a self made good cable ? How did you do that ? Using a kind of aluminum sheet surrounding the cable ?

Thanks again for your help