286 replies to this topic

[antropus]

Here's the re-trace I did for the Williams logo. First frame is the picture of a wpc95. The black letters show the vector logo I downloaded. The red letters show the work I did. Notice how much fatter the text is and some areas are very custom. Not like just making it bold:



I'll make the new vector work available if someone is interested to get a better match to the original.

-Kris

Attached Files

•  Williams_logo2.jpg   208.64KB   950 downloads

Edited by antropus, 24 January 2013 - 12:31 AM.

[nebrunner]

I like what you did with the tilt bob, cutting the plate into 3 pieces. I was thinking of using 3 bobs but this is definitely better! One question I have is which side will be wired to which nudge? Do you wire the right side to right nudge and left side to left nudge or do you have to reverse it to get the right physics? Maybe I just have to mount it and look at it while nudging and it will be obvious. You lost me at this part though: I forgot to mention that I will isolate the opposite side ("back nudge" area) with tape, to avoid front to side ghosting nudge. -Kris Can you post a picture or explain what this is?

[antropus]

faralos,

I never thought about it, maybe because I'm building to use at home and I know I wouldn't lift it (neither my two year old son!). But if someone is out there trying to reproduce the whole experience, it's worth trying!

 

-Kris

[antropus]

nebrunner, this is what I'm thinking for my machine:
 

 
What I meant by ghosting is like this: imagine you nudge it really hard from the front. The pendulum will swing towards you first and then forward. When it goes forward, if I don't isolate that area (red area in the image), I will double tilt in a funny way, getting a front nudge followed by a left (or right) nudge and that would be undesirable.
 
-Kris

Attached Files

•  tiltbob2.jpg   138.49KB   813 downloads

Edited by antropus, 24 January 2013 - 12:31 AM.

[nebrunner]

Ah yes thanks for the picture that makes perfect sense.

[Nemo]

And don't forget to use diodes for each tilt input on your controller board, just to prevent "ghosting". 

[antropus]

Thank you for the tip!

So, while I'm still waiting for the cabinet (only 2 days to go!), I started playing with the artwork. I screen captured some of the frames from the end titles and vectorized them.
This is just a quick test, so the artwork might change completely at the end. I also had time to improve my 3D model and lighting, but it's still missing the front buttons and other details. Nice having this model to pre-visualize my concept though:







-Kris

Attached Files

•  rendertest4.jpg   63.25KB   801 downloads
•  rendertest5.jpg   80.77KB   786 downloads
•  rendertest6.jpg   70.93KB   797 downloads

[Roo]

That looks really cool.

 

Regarding Monster Bash...a version with all the toys rendered in 3D by someone of your talents would be awesome!  I don't know much about creating tables, but I know the T2 Chrome Edition was specially made using a different method than most and thus only works in FS cabinet mode.  There is an extensive thread about it here.

 

I'm not really that interested in a Future Pinball version.  I got some enjoyment out of FP when I set up my MAME cabinet a couple years ago and was first getting into pinball.  But after playing VP and playing more tables in real life, I can't go back to FP.  The physics are just so much better in VP.  It's a shame because some of the original user-created tables for FP are awesome.

[antropus]

Roo, I would love to recreate Monster Bash that way! Thanks for the info.

I'm just clueless about the process of using decals and other details he mentioned in that thread. But since I have the table at home, a combination of good pictures + 3D could really make the think shine. For now I ĺl be busy with my machine built for a while, but I really want to recreate a nice highres pre rendered Monster Bash ADN a RANGO machine. For the Rango machine, I'm planning to use one of the old school machines (without pinmame) and just modify the graphics and sounds to fit Rango's theme. Let see how that will work out

I got the cabinet from Noah last Friday and the speaker panel from mameman last Wednesday and finally started assembling the thing.

Here are some things I managed to do so far:

Side cuts for the playfield glass holder:


Speaker panel + grill + inner grill/speaker insert:


Painted the speaker panel using 2 layers of spray primer, sanded it and added 3 more layers of black flat spray paint, also sanded in between layers:


Close up on the inner panel I made to hold the de-cased logitech speakers, using the original grills:


Detail:


Push buttons inserts done:


Detail of the installed side rail:


The whole thing as it is now:


-Kris

Attached Files

•  397457_10151288152051647_1873603714_n.jpg   70.05KB   736 downloads
•  734177_10151288151956647_1499900237_n.jpg   59.56KB   732 downloads
•  530573_10151288151906647_1292959899_n.jpg   74.74KB   730 downloads
•  205731_10151288151811647_1793324270_n.jpg   81.18KB   731 downloads
•  75815_10151288151756647_1405057540_n.jpg   64.68KB   733 downloads
•  321343_10151288151646647_375920959_n.jpg   50.35KB   743 downloads
•  424946_10151288151601647_1464110795_n.jpg   50.13KB   732 downloads
•  483071_10151288151546647_1217222651_n.jpg   64.05KB   739 downloads

[mameman23]

Fantastic job on that speaker panel. Add the logo and you'll be hard pressed to tell it from a real one

[antropus]

Thank you mameman and thanks for the beautiful job on the panel! Now that you have this new template, people will be able to create some very cool clones of the Williams panels! I cleaned up the logo. I'll try sending it to you tonight, so you can run some tests. The only detail I would like to add to my panel is to create a piano finish to the rounded frames of the DMD and speakers. I think that will add a nice touch. I just have to create a decent mask to isolate the rest of the panel so I can spray it with some glossy goodness. Maybe you could send me the vector template file so I can print it and cut the mask with precision?

Thanks again!

-Kris

[faralos]

fantastic artwork antropus on those williams logos

[antropus]

Thank you faralos!

I got some RGB LEDs from ebay/China. I heard they are not as bright as the cree and that's the reason I got them, because I really don't want the light to be too blinding


Now here's is something interesting. I de-cased the 46-inch LED TV thinking I would find that metal frame around it and thinking how I would paint it or if a little bezel would be necessary. Guess what? The TV comes with a super thin, piano black bezel already!!!! It's so thin I will not remove it and it will fit the cabinet like a glove

Check it out:

front:


Back:


Fully de-cased (very very easy. This TV was made for pin cabs ):


-Kris

Attached Files

•  735094_10151288831691647_1601674998_n.jpg   68.12KB   692 downloads
•  484652_10151288831771647_1616967883_n.jpg   51.73KB   696 downloads
•  480943_10151288831606647_768368669_n.jpg   76.56KB   699 downloads
•  58238_10151288831731647_649247252_n.jpg   88.88KB   693 downloads

Edited by antropus, 29 January 2013 - 08:30 AM.

[ClarkKent]

A very impressing project of yours! Hard to find someone doing such an exact and fine work! Congrats!

 

Do you have a vectorised version of the Williams logo?

[kruge99]

Only one flipper button on each side?  Not planning on having the extra buttons for magna-save games like Black Knight?

[faralos]

Only one flipper button on each side?  Not planning on having the extra buttons for magna-save games like Black Knight?

yes it may be best to put the extra buttons in now

even if they aren't hooked up to anything yet...just in case

[ClarkKent]

If anybody is interested in this - I just found this nice little website:

 

http://vectorlib2.fr...r/Arcade_Logos/

[opeth]

Wow.  This is really nice!

[antropus]

ClarkKent,
yes! I got the vector art clean and scaled to the correct original size. I just need to upload it somewhere so you guys can have access to it.
The link you posted was the first one I tried and as I mentioned before, although those logos look nice when you print, lets say, stickers and manuals, it doesn't match the logo present in the speaker panel. See the images I posted showing the Williams logo from that place and the difference between it and my final traced logo

kruge99 and faralos... hmmmm, you guys are right. I mean, my favorite tables don't use those buttons, but why limit it, right?
The position of the buttons I installed is an exact reproduction of a regular Williams machine, perfectly ergonomic. I wonder where would be a good place to install the second set of the buttons now, without losing the feel that it's in the expected place. But I guess I can just add them towards the front of the machine, since I still got a big gap in there.
Thanks for pointing that out, guys!

opeth,
thank you!

-Kris

[faralos]

Well usually the extra buttons go further back on the cab

towards the rear of the pin on the same plane as the regular buttons,

like the real ones, but hey it's you who is building it not us!

So if you got space there then go for it but be sure to test that spot first

with maybe a bottle cap or something see if it's a button you can hit given the need.

Nothing worse than putting them in only to find you can't hit them while playing!