975 replies to this topic

[marioforever]

Hello MJR.

 

I'm sorry , with the last update I have an error when I want program kl25z : picture :

 Many thanks

 

[mjr]

I'm sorry , with the last update I have an error when I want program kl25z : picture :

 

Are you certain you have the latest firmware installed?  It has some bug fixes that make it more stable when writing the flash.

[marioforever]

Many thank 's.

Yes I just verified update at the moment.
 
I'm in :
 
firmware: 2017-03-24-0545
setup-tool: 2577
 


EDIT : i'm very sorry, Îdo an error when I do update on my kl25z. All is ok now.

Sorry sorry sorry .

And many thank's

Edited by marioforever, 01 April 2017 - 09:22 AM.

[marioforever]

MJR : i'm very sorry, Îdo an error when I do update on my kl25z. All is ok now.

Sorry sorry sorry.

And many thank's.

[Rappelbox]

What would be the best option to check for blown parts?

One of my friends accidentally connected 24v directly to the sclk line on his mosfet power board and, of course it blew up.

If I use only his main board, it works without issues, when I connect the mosfet board some button inputs and the strobe output don't work.

Some of the mosfet outputs seem to ground permanently, all others don't work.

Doesn't anyone have a clue which part to replace first? Could it be the lm1117.

I already changed the tlcs which didn't solve the issues.

Greetings,
Dom

[mjr]

MJR : i'm very sorry, Îdo an error when I do update on my kl25z. All is ok now.

 

Great!  Glad it's working better.

[mjr]

What would be the best option to check for blown parts?

One of my friends accidentally connected 24v directly to the sclk line on his mosfet power board and, of course it blew up.

If I use only his main board, it works without issues, when I connect the mosfet board some button inputs and the strobe output don't work.

Some of the mosfet outputs seem to ground permanently, all others don't work.

Doesn't anyone have a clue which part to replace first? Could it be the lm1117.

I already changed the tlcs which didn't solve the issues.

 

Ouch, sorry to hear that!

 

Those symptoms are pretty complex - the weird business with parts of the main board (buttons and strobe) not working when you plug in the power board should probably be telling me something, but I can't figure out what.  

 

Checking the LD1117 should be pretty easy if you suspect that.  It's just a voltage regulator, so you should see +5V in on pin 3 (the rightmost pin if you're looking at it from the front) and +3.3V out on pin 2 (the middle pin).  

 

I definitely would have guessed the TLC5940 chips would be the first things affected, since they're directly connected to the SCLK pin, and they're the only thing connected to it.  In fact, everything on that header connects directly and only to the TLC5940's.  But if you've already replaced those it must be something else.

 

And if it were individual MOFSETs that were dead and others were working, I'd think it was just the MOSFETs.  

 

Is it possible you just melted one of the circuit board traces?  Try getting your continuity tester and checking continuity between each pin on the JP2 and JP3 headers and the pins they're connected to on the TLC5940's:

 

SCLK -> pin 25 on both TLC5940's (start here since it's the one that you think got hit with the 24V)

GSCLK -> pin 18 on both chips

BLANK -> pin 23 on both

XLAT -> pin 24 on both

SIN on JP2 -> pin 26 on IC1

SOUT on JP3 -> pin 17 on IC2

 

Let me know what you find.

[Rappelbox]

I'll check tonight!

Edit: I checked with a different power board here and both main- and powerboard work without any issues, so there's only wrong power distribution/shortage to check.

Edited by Rappelbox, 01 April 2017 - 06:46 PM.

[Rappelbox]

Sorry, didn't have the time to test it... i can only imagine a small error somewhere

 

I soldered him a new power board... but i still have the defective one here and will test it when i have some spare time...

[Malcom]

Hi mjr,

 

I have a little problem with the night mode since last update.

My night mode activation is linked to one of my push button, it was working fine before last update.

But now i have to keep pushing on the button to have night mode enabled.

I already tried the 2 option push button/switch on-off with the same result, i have to keep the button pressed to activate the button.

Is it a bug with this firmware or do i missed something ?

 

Thanks in advance for your help :-)

[mjr]

I have a little problem with the night mode since last update.

My night mode activation is linked to one of my push button, it was working fine before last update.

But now i have to keep pushing on the button to have night mode enabled.

I already tried the 2 option push button/switch on-off with the same result, i have to keep the button pressed to activate the button.

Is it a bug with this firmware or do i missed something ?

 

It's probably a bug I added in the last update - I made a bunch of changes to the button handling to accommodate the IR additions.

 

A couple of questions to make sure I'm looking at the right thing: (1) Is your night mode button set up as a regular button or as a shifted button?  (2) Do you have a shift button configured at all?

 

Anyway, I'll take a look and see if I can spot the problem.
 

[EDIT:]

 

Found it.  I've uploaded a (hopefully) fixed version here for you to try out:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...deToggleFix.bin

 

Let me know if that fixes it for you.

Edited by mjr, 13 April 2017 - 11:24 PM.

[Malcom]

Great ! thank you the night mode is back !

Thanks for your reactivity

[kiwiBri]

Ok its late, and I finally got my pinscape wired up to the expansion board.  I am using Pinscape in the "keyboard" mode. The buttons in the cab are wired up to random pins on the Expansion Board header, I used the ConfigTool to assign the Button # to the corresponding keyboard key . Now, how do I get this working in Pinball X and Visual Pinball?  

 

thanks!

[mjr]

Ok its late, and I finally got my pinscape wired up to the expansion board.  I am using Pinscape in the "keyboard" mode. The buttons in the cab are wired up to random pins on the Expansion Board header, I used the ConfigTool to assign the Button # to the corresponding keyboard key . Now, how do I get this working in Pinball X and Visual Pinball?  

 

If you're using the default VP keyboard keys, there's nothing else you have to do in VP.  The Pinscape board sends ordinary keyboard keys, as though you were typing them on a real keyboard, so VP won't know the difference - it just sees key presses.  Use the Button Tester in the config tool to verify that the right keyboard keys are getting pressed when you push your buttons.  The little on-screen keyboard diagram will show you the keyboard state, so, for example, when you press your left flipper key, you should see the left shift key light up on the on-screen keyboard diagram.  If all of the right keys are lighting up when you press the right buttons, you should be ready to go in VP.  (Unless, of course, you changed the VP keys from the defaults at some point.  In the VP editor, click Preferences > Keys to view the key mappings VP is using.)

[kiwiBri]

 

Ok its late, and I finally got my pinscape wired up to the expansion board.  I am using Pinscape in the "keyboard" mode. The buttons in the cab are wired up to random pins on the Expansion Board header, I used the ConfigTool to assign the Button # to the corresponding keyboard key . Now, how do I get this working in Pinball X and Visual Pinball?  

 

If you're using the default VP keyboard keys, there's nothing else you have to do in VP.  The Pinscape board sends ordinary keyboard keys, as though you were typing them on a real keyboard, so VP won't know the difference - it just sees key presses.  Use the Button Tester in the config tool to verify that the right keyboard keys are getting pressed when you push your buttons.  The little on-screen keyboard diagram will show you the keyboard state, so, for example, when you press your left flipper key, you should see the left shift key light up on the on-screen keyboard diagram.  If all of the right keys are lighting up when you press the right buttons, you should be ready to go in VP.  (Unless, of course, you changed the VP keys from the defaults at some point.  In the VP editor, click Preferences > Keys to view the key mappings VP is using.)

 

 

Thanks, I went back and checked wiring, and reset my Pinscape settings to default. (I actually wired up the buttons again to the terminal strips testing each one as I went and now have it all working well. I played my cab with buttons for the first time. Not bad at all. Tested in PinballX , VP and FX2.  All good.  

[kiwiBri]

Just curious.. What settings are people using for the nudge? I set up vpx with the settings described in the v1 build guide. Balls seems quite "floaty" when bumped.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Kaleo]

Hello MJR,

 

First of all, many many thanks for this so professional work you have done. It's impressive!

Thank you.

 

I have some troubles with the new TV ON by IR Command feature:

- I have only one stand-alone Pinscape Controller.

- I don't have anything connected to "Power status input", "Status latch output" and "Relay output"

- Anyway, I have TV ON switch Enable and some ports set for  "Power status input", "Status latch output".

- So, on the "TV ON Tester" page, I allways have: "Status: PSU2 Power is on". My problem may come from here.

- I can toggle my TV On/Off using the "Test" icon or if I send the IR Command using a button.

 

but...

My TV never switch ON at startup :-(

 

I can add that my TV is connected to the power supply in the same time as the PC and even if I wait some seconds before starting the PC, the "TV On" don't works.

 

Is there a link between Tv On status and the IR Command launch?

Is there some conditions I missed?

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Kaléo.

[mjr]

Just curious.. What settings are people using for the nudge? I set up vpx with the settings described in the v1 build guide. Balls seems quite "floaty" when bumped.

 

VP 10 needs different settings from VP 9, because they changed a bunch of parameters in the physics engine.  In particular, VP 10 applies the nudge accelerations about 10x as often as VP 9 does, which has the effect of a 10x increase in the "gain" settings.  That means you have to DECREASE the gain settings by about 10x vs VP 9.  In other words, if you use the VP 9 nudge settings in VP 10, the nudge effect will be about 10x too strong - which is probably why the ball seems to react way too strongly when you nudge.  So try decreasing the gain settings - start by dividing your current settings by 10.  There's no one-size-fits-all gain setting, though, so use that as a starting point and experiment until it feels right to you. 

 

(Remember that you have to completely quit out of VP, including the editor, before gain setting changes will take effect.  You have to make sure the VP process is completely terminated every time, with no windows left open.)

Is there a link between Tv On status and the IR Command launch?

 

Yes, there is - when the TV ON status changes from OFF to ON, it starts the countdown timer for the IR TV ON command.  So if your TV ON circuit isn't connected, the software has no way of knowing when you turned on your machine and never sends the TV ON IR commands.

 

(The software can't rely on the USB power status or the KL25Z reboot time, because USB power is on when the system is off, and KL25Z reboots can happen separately from the system power cycle.  The only reliable way to tell when the system turned on is to monitor the external power supply status.)

 

Are you using the expansion boards, or a standalone KL25Z?  I'm guessing the latter, since the expansion boards have the TV ON circuitry built in already.  If you are using the expansion boards, you should only have to set up the appropriate pin inputs for the TV ON section in the setup tool.  If you're using the KL25Z on its own, I can show you the little circuit you can build to duplicate what's on the expansion boards - it's not very complex, only a couple of transistors and resistors.  

 

Alternatively, it's possible for the PC to send a command via USB to the KL25Z to trigger an IR send.  I haven't written a front end program to access that feature yet, but it's pretty straightforward, so I should be able to get to it fairly soon if you want to go that route.  You could use that to have your PC trigger the IR command at some point during system startup, via an autoexec command file or a Startup shortcut.

[Kaleo]

 

Alternatively, it's possible for the PC to send a command via USB to the KL25Z to trigger an IR send.  I haven't written a front end program to access that feature yet, but it's pretty straightforward, so I should be able to get to it fairly soon if you want to go that route.  You could use that to have your PC trigger the IR command at some point during system startup, via an autoexec command file or a Startup shortcut.

 

 

I use a standalone KL25Z and your last proposition seems to be perfect for me. As I have a shortcut button now to start my TV, I can wait for this little improvement.

 

Thanks again.

 

Kaléo.

[kiwiBri]

 

Just curious.. What settings are people using for the nudge? I set up vpx with the settings described in the v1 build guide. Balls seems quite "floaty" when bumped.

 

VP 10 needs different settings from VP 9, because they changed a bunch of parameters in the physics engine.  In particular, VP 10 applies the nudge accelerations about 10x as often as VP 9 does, which has the effect of a 10x increase in the "gain" settings.  That means you have to DECREASE the gain settings by about 10x vs VP 9.  In other words, if you use the VP 9 nudge settings in VP 10, the nudge effect will be about 10x too strong - which is probably why the ball seems to react way too strongly when you nudge.  So try decreasing the gain settings - start by dividing your current settings by 10.  There's no one-size-fits-all gain setting, though, so use that as a starting point and experiment until it feels right to you. 

 

(Remember that you have to completely quit out of VP, including the editor, before gain setting changes will take effect.  You have to make sure the VP process is completely terminated every time, with no windows left open.)

 

 

Thanks, I assume the V1 guide is aimed at VP9.   I have VP9 installed on my cab, but I haven't actually tested or run it. I'll have a another look at the VPX settings as suggested. 

I believe this is what I used:

1.  Open VP (in design mode; no table needs to be loaded)
2.  Select Preferences > Keys on the menu
3.  Check the box for “Enable Analog Nudge”
4.  Check the box for “Enable Nudge Filter”, if present (see below) 
5.  Under “Axis Alignment”:

             * Set X-Axis (L/R) to “X-Axis” on the drop-down

             * Set Y-Axis (U/D) to “Y-Axis”

             * Set X-Gain and Y-Gain to 1000

             * Set Plunger to “Z-Axis” o Set Dead Zone to 0

             * Un-check the “Reverse axis” boxes for X, Y, and Z

 

 

So, really looks like X-Axis and Y-Axis gain goes to 100, which from memory, I think is the default value before I changed, it!