1103 replies to this topic

[Onevox]

So ... config only showing one pin assignment: 6, PTE22, J10-5. Does that indicate issue on mainboard/kl25z side, or could it be anywhere along the chain?

 

bright light doesn't affect it.

pcb mounted to TSL as you describe. Ribbon cable header mounted to printed side. 

Continuity on TSL okay. 

Voltage across Vpp and Vdd okay.

Edited by Onevox, 08 August 2017 - 12:29 AM.

[mjr]

So ... config only showing one pin assignment: 6, PTE22, J10-5. Does that indicate issue on mainboard/kl25z side, or could it be anywhere along the chain?

 

Sorry - I was unclear.  I'm talking about the pin assignments in the "Plunger Sensor" section.  

 

Go to the settings page.  

 

At the top, in the "System Type" section, check the box for "Show KL25Z pin assignments".

 

Now scroll down to the Plunger Sensor section.

 

Make sure "TSL1410R" is selected in the Sensor Type box.  (If it's not set to that, change it so it is.)

 

This should show you three pin assignments:

 

SI (serial data) = PTE20

CLK (serial clock) = PTE21

AO (analog data) = PTB0

 

Those are the defaults and the required settings for the expansion boards, so this is just to verify that nothing got changed accidentally.  And if they are different from those settings, just set them back and click "Program KL25Z" at the bottom.

 

And then those are the pins to check for continuity between the KL25Z and the sensor.

Edited by mjr, 08 August 2017 - 01:00 AM.

[Onevox]

Hoo, doggies.

 

Everything you said to check, was good. Which was a relief and sucked at the same time because I figured my TSL was bad.

 

So the thing that appeared to fix it was I clicked the load settings on the bottom of the "settings" page, then went back to calibrate. Once I did that the TSL window started working. I'm not sure that was the fix, but it started working after I did that.

 

And I have to admit ... of all the steps of getting my vpin built, seeing that window working was the best moment by far. I have to go back and adjust my TSL holder ... my plunger rod covers the entire sensor right now.

 

Thanks for walking me through this. 

[mjr]

Hoo, doggies.

 

Everything you said to check, was good. Which was a relief and sucked at the same time because I figured my TSL was bad.

 

So the thing that appeared to fix it was I clicked the load settings on the bottom of the "settings" page, then went back to calibrate. Once I did that the TSL window started working. I'm not sure that was the fix, but it started working after I did that.. 

 

Fantastic!

[Onevox]

I keep thinking, "i can finish without asking more questions" but then...

 

http://www.mouser.co...R=612-WBL2UEERQ

 

Can you explain how to wire the spec'd calibration button? Any mounting ideas? There are 8 pins, and it doesn't seem to be momentary (the button stays down when pressed, and pops up on second press.) When down, I get continuity between pins 1 and 2. 

 

On the photo, I put in a bank of 3 of these on the coin door (picked up at a closing Radio Shack). But they're not momentary. is momentary required? The lighting is not important to me.

 

Thanks again. 

Attached Files

•  Screen Shot 2017-08-08 at 8.12.40 PM.png   448.79KB   2 downloads
•  Screen Shot 2017-08-09 at 4.14.11 PM.png   50.61KB   2 downloads

[kiwiBri]

I keep thinking, "i can finish without asking more questions" but then...

 

http://www.mouser.co...R=612-WBL2UEERQ

 

Can you explain how to wire the spec'd calibration button? Any mounting ideas? There are 8 pins, and it doesn't seem to be momentary (the button stays down when pressed, and pops up on second press.) When down, I get continuity between pins 1 and 2. 

 

On the photo, I put in a bank of 3 of these on the coin door (picked up at a closing Radio Shack). But they're not momentary. is momentary required? The lighting is not important to me.

 

Thanks again. 

 

I totally forgot about the Calibration button for my install. I got used to just pulling up the calibration screen on the Pinscape Utility, and once calibrated a few weeks (months now?) ago I haven't had the need to recalibrate the plunger, it's  been bang on all this time. 

 

Now, the Night Mode switch, yes, that has become handy and I use it all the time.    

[mjr]

I keep thinking, "i can finish without asking more questions" but then...

 

http://www.mouser.co...R=612-WBL2UEERQ

 

Can you explain how to wire the spec'd calibration button? Any mounting ideas? There are 8 pins, and it doesn't seem to be momentary (the button stays down when pressed, and pops up on second press.) When down, I get continuity between pins 1 and 2. 

 

On the photo, I put in a bank of 3 of these on the coin door (picked up at a closing Radio Shack). But they're not momentary. is momentary required? The lighting is not important to me.

 

 

The calibration button really should be momentary.  They do make momentary variations of that switch - here's the one I use:

 

http://www.mouser.co...WBL2UOABQR05CLR

 

(And here's the secret decoder ring for the part number, in case you're looking for other variations: https://www.e-switch...ch#.WYt8J1WGNaQ.)

 

For calibration wiring for any switch (these or any other type), find the two terminals that conduct when (and only when) the switch is in the ON position, and connect those to the CAL BTN pins on JP3 the expansion board.  The order doesn't matter.

 

If you do want to connect the light, connect it to the +LED- pins on JP3.  The order of those does matter as the LED has a (+) and (-) terminal.  In the case of the WBL switches, simply connect the (+) on JP3 to the (+) switch terminal labeled on the diagram, and (-) on JP3 to the switch (-) terminal.  The light is actually kind of useful for the cal button, because you have to hold it down for a few seconds to enter calibration mode.  The light gives you feedback to tell you when you've held it down long enough.

 

Note that you can also dispense with the button entirely since you can enter calibration mode from the config tool instead.

 

For mounting, these switches are really designed to be mounted on a little printed circuit board, but barring that you can improvise something with a little sheet metal holder and whatever you can figure out to attach them.  Maybe improvised clips, or simply epoxy.  One of my to-do items is to come up with a small circuit board for mounting a bank of these switches and a 3D printable mounting bracket, but I'm afraid it's still just a to-do item at the moment.

I totally forgot about the Calibration button for my install. I got used to just pulling up the calibration screen on the Pinscape Utility, and once calibrated a few weeks (months now?) ago I haven't had the need to recalibrate the plunger, it's  been bang on all this time. 

 

Yeah, calibration is pretty much a one-time step.  If you had to do it frequently, having a special button for it would be nice as a convenience, but the button is pretty unnecessary given how rarely you have to calibrate in practice.

[Onevox]

I can't find the answer to this question: do the JP8 small LED/opto ports use DOF, or do I need to go to the JP11 for that? I'd like the buttons to react to the games, but not excited about building a transistor/resistor board.

 

I have LED buttons with what I think are 20mA. Maybe 30mA.

[mjr]

I can't find the answer to this question: do the JP8 small LED/opto ports use DOF, or do I need to go to the JP11 for that? I'd like the buttons to react to the games, but not excited about building a transistor/resistor board.

 

I have LED buttons with what I think are 20mA. Maybe 30mA.

 

The JP8 ports can be programmed with DOF.  If you use the default expansion board settings in the config tool, they should show up as ports 50 through 65.

[Onevox]

I'm using what I think is 24awg for buttons and button lights ... I'm reusing colored wire from a back box wiring harness. But then started to wonder if I need something heavier, like 18awg, for the secondary PSU, and CPU power wiring. I was trying to figure how many amps the KL25Z and main board might pull. I can't imagine it's much, since I have only LEDs hooked up.

Thanks for guidance.

[mjr]

24 gauge is fine if all you're connecting is low-power LEDs.  I'd go up to at least 20 for the PSU2 wiring, maybe 18, if you're planning on flashers, solenoids, motors, etc.  Here are some basic stats for the wire capacity:

 

24 - 3.5A

22 - 7A

20 - 11A

18 - 16A

The wire to the board that's going to carry all of the current for the is feedback devices is the black 0V/ground wire to PSU2, so size that according to what you're going to attach.  If you want to be extremely conservative, add up all of their current requirements and use the sum.  That really is extremely conservative, though.  The wire ratings are for sustained current over long periods (order of an hour).  In reality, feedback devices don't all fire at once, and they only fire intermittently.  So a more realistic estimate would be to take the sum of the two or three highest current devices.

 

As for the KL25Z itself, it's down in the noise - about 20mA.  The expansion board's idle draw should also be pretty negligible, just whatever the transistors and voltage regulator are wasting in their off states, probably tens of microamps.

[Onevox]

Thanks. Very helpful. no feedback for me except button lights. all other feedback will be via surround sound PMD ... so no major loads. 

 

Getting very close now ...

[Onevox]

I think I'm down to my final 2 connections:

1. Do I really connect 5v to pin 18 on JP8, and if so from PSU2 or CPU PSU? Would hate to fry something at this stage!
2. Where do I connect ground for button lights connected to JP8?

[mjr]

I think I'm down to my final 2 connections:

1. Do I really connect 5v to pin 18 on JP8, and if so from PSU2 or CPU PSU? Would hate to fry something at this stage!
2. Where do I connect ground for button lights connected to JP8?

 

1.  JP8 pin 18 is a *source* of +5V for your LEDs.  You connect that to the + sides of your LEDs.

 

(You actually wouldn't do any harm if you did plug that into the +5V from either power supply, as it ultimately just ends up connected there anyway internally.  But that's not what it's for; it's there as a convenience, so that all of the LED wiring ends up on the same connector.)

 

2.  The other pins on JP8 basically *are* the grounds for your LEDs.  Each LED gets connected like this:

 

JP8 pin 18 -----  (+) LED (-) ------ JP8 pin for that light

 

All of the + sides get wired together and ultimately connect to JP8 pin 18. 

[Onevox]

Ok I wired the button leds like button inputs so my daisy chained black wire will provide power to the leds.

I may remake my daisy chain with red wire to remind me that it provides power to the LEDs.

Edited by Onevox, 14 August 2017 - 03:33 PM.

[Onevox]

After double checking all connections, I fired up the interface board for the first time last night. Buttons work and I must say, quite a thrill to be using buttons for the first time. But noticed two things:

 

1.PinballX has gotten really, really slow. Like 45 seconds to load the software, and about 45 seconds to load a table. I will reinstall PBX and see what happens. I actually thought the software was crashing before it loaded because it took so long. Not sure why the board would affect this.

 

2. Also getting game freezes where buttons stop working, even on the keyboard. Noticed it specifically when I was holding the right flipper button up with a ball to test nudging sensitivity.  When I let go the of the button, the flipper stayed up, and all buttons just made a click sound through the speakers. But the loss of button function happened at other times as well. So I'm going to install VP as well to see if that fixes it.

 

BTW:  Nudging gain at 1000% created a weak magnet like affect (a la TOTAN) all over the PF, so reduced to 100, which is better, but will probably up to about 200. I'm not sure if something like my subwoofer was affecting it.)

 

DOF button lights still to come.

[Onevox]

This post has gone around the horn.

 

Here's where I'm at:

 

1. I used the DOF Configtool and downloaded the config files and put in my 'config' folder inside DirectOutput folder. 

2. I selected just the Pinscape = 1, and not Pinscape and KL25Z.

 

My buttons light up as 24-27 on the DOF tester, and in the pinscape controller software. But are those the same ports in the configtool?

 

Mike, you mentioned that "The JP8 ports can be programmed with DOF.  If you use the default expansion board settings in the config tool, they should show up as ports 50 through 65." on the config tool. Is there a guide to getting the ports assigned in the Configtool site?

 

Thanks.

 

Pete

Edited by Onevox, 19 August 2017 - 03:15 PM.

[mjr]

This post has gone around the horn.

 

Here's where I'm at:

 

1. I used the DOF Configtool and downloaded the config files and put in my 'config' folder inside DirectOutput folder. 

2. I selected just the Pinscape = 1, and not Pinscape and KL25Z.

 

My buttons light up as 24-27 on the DOF tester, and in the pinscape controller software. But are those the same ports in the configtool?

 

Mike, you mentioned that "The JP8 ports can be programmed with DOF.  If you use the default expansion board settings in the config tool, they should show up as ports 50 through 65." on the config tool. Is there a guide to getting the ports assigned in the Configtool site?

 

In the Pinscape config tool, go down to the output port list section.  You should see the individual JP-8 ports listed by pin number in that list.  You can rearrange those however you like, so there's not a fixed numbering.  The 50-65 numbering should be the default if you initially set things up with one power board, but I think you said you're only using the main board, so that'll change the numbering.  In any case, the numbering shown in the Pinscape config tool is the same as the numbering used in DOF, so just look at the output ports list in the config tool and set up the same assignments in the DOF config page.

[Onevox]

Feeling like I've fallen 10 feet from the finish line. 

 

Pinscape and DOF port numbers match: 24-27. And pinscape and ledwiz testers turn on those ports and my buttons light up. 

 

1. Do I need the globalconfig.xml file in the DirectOutput folder? Grand Unified didn't have one and DOF Configtool didn't create one. (Bambi sent me his DO folder as a visual and his had one.)

2. Do I need ledwiz.dll file in DO folder? seems I read where this was no longer necessary. I've tried with and without.

 

I've included SS of everything hoping something looks out of place. I feel like it something simple. Thanks a ton.

 

   Capture2.PNG   34.41KB   1 downloads  Capture15.PNG   29.23KB   1 downloads  Capture11.PNG   13.62KB   1 downloads  Capture12.PNG   11.18KB   1 downloads  Capture13.PNG   7.84KB   1 downloads  Capture14.PNG   25.26KB   1 downloads  Capture16.PNG   35.5KB   1 downloads

[mjr]

Feeling like I've fallen 10 feet from the finish line. 

 

Pinscape and DOF port numbers match: 24-27. And pinscape and ledwiz testers turn on those ports and my buttons light up. 

 

1. Do I need the globalconfig.xml file in the DirectOutput folder? Grand Unified didn't have one and DOF Configtool didn't create one. (Bambi sent me his DO folder as a visual and his had one.)

2. Do I need ledwiz.dll file in DO folder? seems I read where this was no longer necessary. I've tried with and without.

 

You don't need LedWiz.dll for VP or DOF as long as you're using the DOF DLLs on the Pinscape site, which it sounds like you are.  (You'd only need it for LedWiz clients that don't use DOF, like Future Pinball.)

 

And I don't think you need a globalconfig.xml file.  That will get created automatically if you use the DOF config editor tools, but if the file doesn't exist, DOF should just use defaults for everything.

 

Just to be clear, the problem is that you're running VP, loading and running a table that *should* be turning on the lights, and the lights stay off?

 

Are you certain DOF is loading?  Try this:

 

- Load and run the table you're trying to get working

 

- Right-click on the backglass

 

- That should bring up a dialog with B2S settings.  There should be a section at the bottom for plug-ins, and a button for plugin settings.  If there's no button, DOF isn't getting loaded at all.  If there is a button, click it and see what the status report in the dialog says - that might report an error, which would also mean DOF isn't loading properly.