On this one I haven't done any wires yet. I tried sliders SDA, no change. \\
I went out and tried a few demos (not sure which ones to actually do but I did try this one and a few others - I tried this one with no luck: http://developer.mbe...iveTouchButton/
This one doesn't work either: http://developer.mbe...-Blinky/compile
EDIT: finally did get one to work properly - http://developer.mbe...d_blend/compile
So my board isn't fried or anything. When I plug this demo in on the 'joystick side'. It does the same thing as the program side (the demo). So thats a good sign it is all working properly from a hardware perspective...
Not sure what the difference is in the 2 I posted above as they do similar things but one works the other doesn't.
It's almost like once I put the Pinscape Controller.bin on it, something just goes haywire. Is there a specific amount of time you need to wait when programming?
Are there different version so this model that might be causing issues? Seems odd if it was a hardware issue I'd have the same thing happen on 2 boards (btw my other board is fine as well). Like you said, maybe it has something to do with the accelerometer, but I couldn't find any demos that used it (with LED) that didn't require outside coding or something. I think I found one, and it did nothing.
I'm starting to suspect you do have a different model, given that the demos aren't working consistently. Where did you buy it? Do you have a link to the page with the manufacturer's part number?
In answer to your question about wait time, no: copying a .bin onto the boot loader disk automatically reboots the processor and starts the new program running immediately.
Are you running Windows 8 or 8.1? If so, did you follow the special instructions involving doing the initial setup on a Win 7 (or earlier machine)? I'm not even sure if that's still an issue, but when I first got my KL25Z, I had a heck of a time with weirdly unpredictable behavior - not quite like what you're seeing but similarly bizarre, where the simplest tutorials just would not do quite what the instructions said they should. It turned out to be that the firmware they loaded at the factory wasn't compatible with Windows 8, and in fact was so incompatible that you couldn't even install the new firmware using Windows 8! It would *seem* to work correctly when I tried, but then it wouldn't work properly for the demos and tutorials. I would hope they've fixed this by now - it's been a year since I ran into this - but if you are running Win 8 you might try finding an XP or Vista or Win 7 machine and try starting over with the boot loader installation.
I have a problem with the option of Ledwiz, install my KL25Z 5 Leds, DOF detects fine but the LEDs are always on.
installation that I have is simple, the leds 5v I draw from the power supply pc and each output to GND ports KL25Z.
What am I doing wrong?
First, what kind of LEDs are we talking about?
Second, how exactly do you have them wired? Are you actually attaching the negative terminal of the LED to a KL25Z ground terminal? If so that would explain why it's always on - the KL25Z ground terminal is just the same as the PC power supply ground, so you're just connecting the LED to power with no switching circuitry involved. Always on is exactly what should happen if this is how you've wired it.
If you mean that you connected the negative side of the LED to a KL25Z GPIO terminal that corresponds to one of the Pinscape software's LedWiz emulator outputs, the problem might be that you shouldn't be connecting LEDs directly to these pins. The KL25Z has *really* wimpy current sourcing/sinking limits. You thought the LedWiz 500mA per port limit was hard to deal with? Try *4* mA per port. That's the KL25Z limit. That's why I have all that extra circuitry in the manual for the LedWiz option. You absolutely need some kind of amplifier circuit to drive *anything* with a KL25Z GPIO pin. Those pins are only strong enough to drive a transistor base or FET gate. If you just want to drive LEDs (either the small 20mA type or the 350mA type, as long as it's just one per output), you can just hook up the Darlington chip recommended in the doc (they're about $1 for an 8-output array) and wire each LED directly to a Darlington output. I can sketch out the circuit for you if you're not sure how to do that. Or better yet, build the full MOSFET circuit in the guide - that can handle just about anything you can throw at it, from LEDs to shaker motors. I have mine running a 4A gear motor, a fan, a pair of beacons, strobes, a long string of undercab LEDs, and a couple of contactors.
Is there a way to erase this and make it fresh?
I'm pretty sure doing the full boot loader re-installation has this effect - the sequence where you unplug everything and then hold down the reset button while plugging it back in to the programming side. That resets the boot loader, which is a separate master CPU that manages the storage device.
Edited by mjr, 02 February 2015 - 08:57 PM.