285 replies to this topic

[mjr]

 

But what about "pin number 10" ? GREEN ON YOUR SCHEMA          

 

 

You can just leave pin 10 disconnected.  

 

(It's the common "+" connection for the chip's built-in flyback protection diodes, but for this circuit we can safely leave those disconnected.  The outputs are connected to the PC817 optocoupler LEDs, which don't generate any flyback current.  The chip has the built-in diodes as a convenience in case you wanted to connect the outputs directly to a small relay or something like that.)

[totoche40]

ok, thank you so much

I think I am ready to build my pincab

your help was  essential

[mjr]

ok, thank you so much

I think I am ready to build my pincab

your help was  essential

 

Glad you're making progress!  Good luck with the build process.

[Onevox]

Does anyone have a pic of the populated main expansion (interface) board without the KL25Z in place? I'd like to have taped up in front of me while I'm soldering so I don't do this: 

 

thanks.

 

[Slydog43]

I'm about to populate one tomorrow, so a pic could not hurt

[kiwiBri]

@Onevox

@SlyDog43

 

Found this online, sorry not the photo you are looking for with the KLZ board removed. 

 

 

 

The person who build this has used some different headers/connectors then described in the parts list

Edited by kiwiBri, 05 June 2017 - 01:46 PM.

[Onevox]

Thanks. I'm hoping for something that shows the components under the KL25Z. I do better with a visual to follow. 

[ESnider]

I'm new and I'm just getting started on modifying an old (broken) EM pinball machine. Does anyone have extra boards to sell that I could buy? I'd like to do all the cool stuff – plunger, tilt sensor, buttons, knocker, chimes etc. I tried to direct message mjr, but it said "... mjr can not receive any more messages." I'm guessing he's pretty popular.

[mjr]

I'm new and I'm just getting started on modifying an old (broken) EM pinball machine. Does anyone have extra boards to sell that I could buy? I'd like to do all the cool stuff – plunger, tilt sensor, buttons, knocker, chimes etc. I tried to direct message mjr, but it said "... mjr can not receive any more messages." I'm guessing he's pretty popular.

 

Sorry about the full mailbox!  I do in fact have all of the expansion boards available, so I'd be happy to send you a set.  You can reach me via regular email at [email protected] to get the details worked out.

[Rappelbox]

@Onevox
@SlyDog43
 
Found this online, sorry not the photo you are looking for with the KLZ board removed. 
 

 
 
The person who build this has used some different headers/connectors then described in the parts list

I'm sure that unclesash did it on purpose for his own setup. But i find it rather confusing than helping if someone wants to get an overview how it should look like...

Greetings,
Dom

Edited by Rappelbox, 06 June 2017 - 10:53 AM.

[Onevox]

Sash sent me pics without the kl25z installed ... top,bottom and each pcb edge. I'm not as interested in headers and pins just the orientation of other things and using as a triple check on what I read on the pcb and schematic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[scottacus]

Here are photos of my "backup" board with and without the KL25Z.

Edited by scottacus, 06 June 2017 - 02:16 PM.

[Onevox]

Thanks scottacus. the pics are very helpful. I think I see this right, is there a practical reason to put pins on the expansion board, and I assume sockets on the KL25Z? 

Edited by Onevox, 06 June 2017 - 04:59 PM.

[scottacus]

You could probably reverse the locations of the pins and sockets and be OK, I find it easier to mate the two together when you can see the pins going into the sockets from above.  When dealing with pins and sockets, be sure to solder the pins onto the baords with them in the sockets for proper alignment. 

 

You might have noticed that I also put sockets on the board for the 5940 chips.  The first board that I put together took MJR and I about a week and a half to trouble shoot because we figured that the problem had to be software related and something other than the chips.  I eventually switched out the 5940s and everything worked fine so I socketed this board since I was burned once by a bad 5940. 

 

With these older chips that are out of production I think that some of the chips that you get on E-bay are Chinese counterfeits that are of variable quality.  I've had chips with TI silk screening on them that had poorly finished case flashings and pins that were tarnished that would have never passed TI's chip inspectors.  I think this is what happened with the bad 5940, hence the sockets.

[Slydog43]

I'm finally getting around to populating some boards, do I need a ledwiz board also with these?

[mjr]

I'm finally getting around to populating some boards, do I need a ledwiz board also with these?

 

If you're building the expansion boards, they can take the place of an LedWiz.  They're also perfectly happy to coexist with an LedWiz in the same system, so completely up to you.  The main board gives you outputs for the flashers, strobe, replay knocker, and flipper button LEDs, all of which you can wire directly to the board without any relays or boosters.  The power board gives you 32 outputs for just about anything, including motors, contactors, fans, solenoids, etc.  Again, you can hook all of those directly to the power board without any relays or boosters.  (With an LedWiz, you would need some kind of booster for most of that, so if you're building the power board you probably won't have any need to add an LedWiz.)

[Moepons]

Hi all, Ive just started my pinball with the board and im having problems:

- There are several buttons pushed all the time, 24,25... Like six or seven, so I had to stop them working with the configuration program.

-ive attached to the Analog0 a 10k pptentiometer and i have configured with the plugin. Windows and the plugin detects all the pathe the potentiometer has but visual pinball only detects the central part of the potentiometer, so it launches the ball automatically when its at its top position and only starts going back from the mkd part of the potentiometer till the end.... So it doesnt work at all.

Does somebody had this problem amd solved it?

PD: is it possible to connect led stripes to the board in ordsr to get some lights during the play? (Force feedback?)

Thank you all! Greets from Spain

[mjr]

First, are you using the expansion boards or a stand-alone KL25Z?

 

It would help if you could post a screen shot of the full configuration settings window, showing all option settings, and a photo or diagram of your physical KL25Z and expansion board wiring.  That would help make sure we're all talking about the same thing.

 

For the plunger, did you ever run the Windows "set up USB game controller" control panel and use the "Calibrate..." button?  You shouldn't ever do that - it might be the reason you're seeing weird behavior in VP.  If you did, you should go back to that control panel and click "Reset to default" on the "Settings" tab.  If that's not it, I'll have to look at your config settings and wiring when you have a chance to post that.

 

You can connect LED strips to any power board output, if you're using the expansion boards.  If you're using the standalone KL25Z, external circuitry is required.  This is described in the v1 build guide - search for "Build the LedWiz output drivers".  Once you build those circuits, you can connect LED strips or just about anything else to the MOSFET outputs.

[mrjoin3r]

Well took the plunge and ordered the expansion board and powerboard from Elcrow, just waiting for them to be delivered. I've just checked the mouser parts list for the expansion board and two of the parts, the (Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 4.7uF 10volts X5R +/-10%) and the (Transistor Output Optocouplers Optocplr Phototrans 4-CHNL)  are on back order in the UK until February, March 2018 . Could anyone suggest alternatives for these and where I might get them from? I'm a complete beginner when it comes to electronics so will be asking many questions as I try and work through this, hope everyone can put up with the many questions I will inevitably be asking.  

[SoCalPlayer]

First -- I greatly appreciate the work done to provide the community with a virtual plunger / nudge solution.  Hats off to all of those that have over the years participated in putting this together.

 

I have purchased a FRDM-KL25Z and have gotten it configured and working on Windows 10 (USB 2.0).  Great instructions and wonderful experience using the configuration tool.

 

I was wondering if anyone has an expansion PC Board (populated or not).  I would like to purchase the board if possible.  Otherwise I will be putting an order into a PCB manufacturer and would like to know if there are others that would like to join in on the purchase.

 

Last, I am creating a 3D printed part that will hold the sliding potentiometer which I got from Jameco Electronics.  To give back to the community I will upload the STL files so others can print their own.  

 

I may also (for a small fee) print additional ones for those interested.  But, I am getting ahead of myself.  

 

Please let me know about the expansion boards.

 

Thanks!