285 replies to this topic

[Onevox]

Mike, are there U.S. sources for the boards, or do you have any left? I started planning my Pinscape last fall, got distracted by a pinball resto that was supposed to be donor cab, and now I'm back at it, I'm worried I'm too late. I'm still debating if I can build it, or if I should go with prebuilt. I've done some basic mosfet, diode and cap replacement on pcbs, but nothing this involved in terms of detailed soldering.

 

If I chicken out, what's your recommendation on prebuilt soltuions? LEDwiz?  ... I plan to get the thing running with a KL25Z and probably two sound systems, then think about lights and feedback later, so that its an ongoing project. 

 

Thanks for the pinscape architecture graphic and website. Can't wait for my new empty donor cab to arrive in March. 

Edited by Onevox, 30 January 2017 - 03:23 PM.

[mjr]

Mike, are there U.S. sources for the boards, or do you have any left? I started planning my Pinscape last fall, got distracted by a pinball resto that was supposed to be donor cab, and now I'm back at it, I'm worried I'm too late. I'm still debating if I can build it, or if I should go with prebuilt. I've done some basic mosfet, diode and cap replacement on pcbs, but nothing this involved in terms of detailed soldering.

 

I've just about run out of the original batch... but you're in luck, because I just got a new batch.  So yes, I have plenty of boards on hand at the moment.  If you decide to go with that, PM me and we can make arrangements.

 

These boards do have a lot parts to install. But if you've done the basics of building a board before, it really should just be a bigger version of the same job.  I don't think there's anything on them that by itself is more challenging than the basic sorts of resistors and transistors and ICs and so on.

 

 

If I chicken out, what's your recommendation on prebuilt soltuions? LEDwiz?  ... I plan to get the thing running with a KL25Z and probably two sound systems, then think about lights and feedback later, so that its an ongoing project. 

 

The LedWiz is the definitely gold standard around here.  It's reasonably priced and fairly easy to deal with, and it's probably the best supported alternative in terms of VP and the other pinball software.  The only downside of the LedWiz is that it has limited power handling best suited to driving LEDs and lights (it's right in the name, after all ).  The combination of LedWiz + Zeb's booster board is just about ideal, the only downside being that it's a little pricier (obviously) than the plain LedWiz.  

 

The next best thing is probably the Sainsmart relay boards.  I'm not wild about those because they're not solid-state, but lots of people use them and like them, they're cheap, and by all accounts they're pretty easy to set up.  And those can handle bigger loads that the LedWiz can't handle without a booster.

 

There are also the Ultimarc options, like the PacLed64.  Those are basically the same idea as the LedWiz with some different tradeoffs.  The main reservation I have with them is that they're not as widely used among pin cab people as the LedWiz and Sainsmart options, and I get the impression that the software support for them isn't as good, so it might be a bit more challenging to get them fully integrated into a system.

[roar]

Mike, are there U.S. sources for the boards, or do you have any left? I started planning my Pinscape last fall, got distracted by a pinball resto that was supposed to be donor cab, and now I'm back at it, I'm worried I'm too late. I'm still debating if I can build it, or if I should go with prebuilt. I've done some basic mosfet, diode and cap replacement on pcbs, but nothing this involved in terms of detailed soldering.

 

If I chicken out, what's your recommendation on prebuilt soltuions? LEDwiz?  ... I plan to get the thing running with a KL25Z and probably two sound systems, then think about lights and feedback later, so that its an ongoing project. 

 

Thanks for the pinscape architecture graphic and website. Can't wait for my new empty donor cab to arrive in March. 

 

Your experience level sounds about where mine was... just enough pcb work to swap blown out components on pinball boards but not enough to think I could tackle the pinscape project. With the help of mjr though I got through it... and now my board work on real pinball machines is even better! Check out the support thread... which is pretty much just mjr holding my hand through the entire process

[kiwiBri]

Mike, are there U.S. sources for the boards, or do you have any left? I started planning my Pinscape last fall, got distracted by a pinball resto that was supposed to be donor cab, and now I'm back at it, I'm worried I'm too late. I'm still debating if I can build it, or if I should go with prebuilt. I've done some basic mosfet, diode and cap replacement on pcbs, but nothing this involved in terms of detailed soldering.

 

If I chicken out, what's your recommendation on prebuilt soltuions? LEDwiz?  ... I plan to get the thing running with a KL25Z and probably two sound systems, then think about lights and feedback later, so that its an ongoing project. 

 

Thanks for the pinscape architecture graphic and website. Can't wait for my new empty donor cab to arrive in March. 

 

hi,

What donor cab are you planning to use?  I am currently retro fitting a Judge Dredd cab. You can find the link below to my build. Need to update it - Just been so busy with family events lately. 

[Onevox]

I'm getting it in March and living the pinball rule: it ain't yours until its on the way home. So I'm skittish. But its a 1970s era SS.

[totoche40]

Hello,

I wish to carry out the assembly proposed on the PDF : The Roberts Pinscape Controller.

 

The scheme is not very clear to me because, Iam a very beginner.

 

So I ask you the questions that block me....

 

Q 1 : The siemens contactor switches on " Load + and - " ?

 

Q 2 : +12V switches on  positive of power supply of PC

 

Q 3 : "+ V for load"  on positive of power supply 24V ? So, where can I plug the negative, masse ground ?

 

Q 4 :  Negative of 12v and 24v power supply : They can be interconnected ?

 

Thank you and Sorry for my bad english, Iam from France.

 

XXX

 

 

 

 

[marie]

 

Ok. I'm currently is the assembling-phase but a number of items can't be found. Via Mouser they are but unfortunately the shipping costs are enormous in comparision. We can't find the following:

• Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/3watt 4.02Kohms 1%. Can I use a 4.02k 0.4W of 4.02 0.25W instead?
• Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 4.7uF 10volts X5R +/-10%. Can i use a tantalum-variant instead?

The other stuff is in house already but these parts are missing unfortunately. Or does anyone know where to order these in Europe other than mouser? As said before: shipping is expensive for these small parts...

 

For the resistor, either of those alternatives should work fine.  In fact, if you find something +/- 0.1K or so (3.9K to 4.1K), that'll work too - it doesn't have to match exactly.  I put the 4.02K on the parts list because that was the cheapest thing at Mouser in the right range.  The power rating on this particular one also isn't vital; the Mouser option happened to be 1/3W, but 1/4W or higher should work equally well.

 

For the capacitor, you probably want to stick with the ceramic.  Tantalum capacitors are polarized, whereas the ceramics aren't, so it would change the circuit a bit to use a polarized.  It would probably still work, since this is all DC logic circuitry, but I'd have to double-check.  

 

But I really think you should be able to find an equivalent 4.7uF ceramic from a local shop - this is an extremely common size and type, so you really should be able to find one locally.  You don't need the exact part on the parts list; any generic 4.7uF ceramic disc capacitor will work.  And it would undoubtedly be a lot cheaper than a tantalum; those tend to be about 10x the price of the ceramics.

 

I also have bought the tantalum capacitors because I was of unable to find the ceramic variant (a typical Dutch problem?) ...  You said that these tantalum capacitors are polarized. Does that mean that there is a preferred way of mounting these capacitors on the boards? (In other words where should I place the '+'?) I want to assemble the KLZ-board and power board.

 

Thanks! 

[Rappelbox]

I also have bought the tantalum capacitors because I was of unable to find the ceramic variant (a typical Dutch problem?) ...  You said that these tantalum capacitors are polarized. Does that mean that there is a preferred way of mounting these capacitors on the boards? (In other words where should I place the '+'?) I want to assemble the KLZ-board and power board.
 
Thanks! 

On the mainboard + faces towards the lm1117
On the powerboard it faces towards the inside of the powerboard and - towards the edge of the board

[mjr]

I wish to carry out the assembly proposed on the PDF : The Roberts Pinscape Controller.

 

The scheme is not very clear to me because, Iam a very beginner.

 

So I ask you the questions that block me....

 

Q 1 : The siemens contactor switches on " Load + and - " ?

 

Q 2 : +12V switches on  positive of power supply of PC

 

Q 3 : "+ V for load"  on positive of power supply 24V ? So, where can I plug the negative, masse ground ?

 

Q 4 :  Negative of 12v and 24v power supply : They can be interconnected ?

 

 

 

1.  "Load + and -" go to the Siemens contactor coil inputs.  I think they're usually labeled "A1" and "A2" on the contactor body itself, but it probably depends on exactly which type you have.  If you don't see A1/A2 terminals, look for "DC 24V" marked next to one of the terminals - that's probably the "+" input, and the one opposite it is the "-".  If you can't identify the right terminals, post a close-up photo of the terminal markings and someone will probably be able to identify the type for you.

 

"Load +"  ==  Contactor A1

"Load -"  ==  Contactor A2

 

2.  For the +12V, you can use either your PC power supply +12V (yellow wire) or +12V from a secondary PC power supply, if you have a separate power supply for feedback devices.

 

3.  For the 24V supply, connect the ground or (-) to the PC power supply ground.

 

4.  Yes, connect all of the power supply grounds together.

 

I hope this helps!

[marie]

 

I also have bought the tantalum capacitors because I was of unable to find the ceramic variant (a typical Dutch problem?) ...  You said that these tantalum capacitors are polarized. Does that mean that there is a preferred way of mounting these capacitors on the boards? (In other words where should I place the '+'?) I want to assemble the KLZ-board and power board.
 
Thanks! 

On the mainboard + faces towards the lm1117
On the powerboard it faces towards the inside of the powerboard and - towards the edge of the board

 

Dankeschön for your fast and clear answer! I can continue with  my journey...

[totoche40]

To MJR,

 

thank you so much for all and the speed

you are very nice.

[totoche40]

Good Morning MJ Roberts,

The Pinscape Controller

I have a question about your driver board
( picture of your driver board, page 26 / 29 )

why do you use fuses ?
what are the specifications of the fuses ?

I plan to use :
contactors siemens 24 volts
a shaker ( Drill motor 12 volts )
a windscreen wiper motor
leds for flipper button lights

Do I need fuses ?

Thank you very much

[mjr]

Fuses are a surprisingly big subject.  Here's a detailed chapter on the subject:  http://mjrnet.org/pi...e.php?sid=fuses

Quick summary: 

 

- The point of the fuses is to protect the output controller electronics

 

- They protect against:

   - malfunctions and overloads caused by the feedback device

   - short circuits due to faults in the wiring

   - human error (e.g., dropping a screwdriver into the box while the power is on)

 

- Select fuses based on the maximum amperage that the output controller circuit can handle

 

- Fuses aren't absolutely necessarily, but I recommend them; they add some up-front cost but can make up for it by protecting more expensive parts against damage if anything ever goes wrong

[totoche40]

thank you very much,

so if I have understood :

 

Pinscape DIY MOSFET output circuit: the limit depends primarily on MOSFET you choose, but 5A is a safe (conservative) choice for all of the options we recommend in our circuit plans.

 

so, I have to use fuse 5A 

[mjr]

thank you very much,

so if I have understood :

 

Pinscape DIY MOSFET output circuit: the limit depends primarily on MOSFET you choose, but 5A is a safe (conservative) choice for all of the options we recommend in our circuit plans.

 

so, I have to use fuse 5A 

 

Right, 5A should work well for the power board outputs.  Be sure to pick a fuse rated for DC voltages (most are AC only).

[totoche40]

Thank you so much for your help.

 

kiss from Menton, south of France.

[totoche40]

Good morning MJR

just a question about the BUK9575's pins ( DSG )

Are pins DSG on the good position on the shema of your driver board ?

On the BUK, 1=G, 2=D, 3=S ?

I am not sure

thank you

 

[mjr]

Good morning MJR

just a question about the BUK9575's pins ( DSG )

Are pins DSG on the good position on the shema of your driver board ?

On the BUK, 1=G, 2=D, 3=S ?

I am not sure

thank you

 

 

Yes, that all looks correct - your D G S labels on the schematic are right, and the D G S labels on the BUK9575 diagram are right.  

Here's a 3D version of the chip diagram - I always find it confusing on the flat drawings whether you're meant to be looking at the front or back of the package.

 

[totoche40]

Thank you very very much, MJR.

[totoche40]

Good Morning MJR,

 

A question about your Pinscape Controller. ULN2803A

 

You said : his chip has 8 identical blocks, arranged with the inputs and outputs on the corresponding pins on opposite sides of

the chip. You can therefore use one ULN2803A to build 8 copies of the circuit shown above. Just wireeach circuit

to a separate pin pair on the ULN2803A.

 

OK, understood.

 

But what about "pin number 10" ? GREEN ON YOUR SCHEMA          

 

 

 

Thank you for your patience and your kindness