192 replies to this topic

[Tesla]

I know this is an old topic, but I want to report on that that the LVDS controller linked in this thread worked for me to connect directly to the ALP playfield. This makes the screen look far more clean than the OTG passthrough. The image is more sharp, has more accurate color. Banding / graininess are gone and the latency is noticeably less. Im playing with DLSR at 4k and the image is much better than I expected. I have mainly been using my cabinet as a VR super stubby and wasnt worried about breaking the screen. I just wanted the screen available for more social game time.

 

Thanks for posting and confirming it works. With the lack of directions (and the LVDS connector keying being bypassed) looks like you guessed right where pin-1 was. As I reviewed my old-install-pics (and others I found later, like on that Amazon-seller's 1upArcade version item page) looks like me and the guy that posted the recent Amazon review for the LVDS AtGames version ... guessed wrong and blew our LCDs. Of course, I DID originally make an effort to connect it properly (but you only get one chance).

 

While I was sorta forced into it, moving-up to a 1440p playfield screen was an excellent upgrade for me. Also, I just figured-out you can set the LG to "Faster" (which bumps it up to 75Hz ) and turn on the FreeSync . While not validated by Nvidia, the GSync seems to be working with my GTX-1070 card (running in a newer Intel-i7 computer now).

 

I got to thinking . 1080p was good at 24inches. A while back I picked-up a Dell 27-inch GSync 1080p Gaming-Monitor for $100. I tried to use it, but the resolution was too low ... even for casual Windows Desktop use. I ended-up gifting it to my grand-nephew (with my old gaming-pc with GTX-1660). That's still a viable-combo and he loves it (he's 11). So, anyway ... 1080p at 32inches is just not that good of a dot-density ... and we are so close (and at weird angle).

 

But the cabinet it a good size and I fear I would never have gotten into all this without the ALP to spur me along (I'd still be rotating my desktop monitor and playing at my desk). That $5000 for a pre-built VirtuaPin is a tough sell. For the other pre-installed LCD, the BuyStuffArcades controller for the AtGames BackGlass 15-in LCD did work (and I'm still using it).

 

Yeah, the OTG was a cool idea, but they way it was implemented ... it just introduced too much latency and extra processing for something like pinball. Also, the ALP end-up being a bit toyish. My exciters broke, I've had button/switches fail, and my on-board AtGames (nudge) accelerometer never worked properly. I've always been a fan of FarSight Studios though. Mine was only $400 at Sams-Club.

Edited by Tesla, 05 October 2025 - 03:29 PM.

[Tesla]

AtGames used some (cheap asian) keyboard switches inside a normal-sized plastic button shell. Fine for misc buttons, but not very durable. My left Flipper went out about 6-months ago. While I could have swapped-in one from my (un-used) Nudge-buttons, I instead picked-up some leaf-spring buttons on eBay. I finally got them install a month ago and so I can finally use and play pinball again. They feel and work much better. Also, been trying to get some other long-overdue mods done.

 

My cabinet has always been treated like a large computer-peripheral. While it's dedicated for this use, I like keeping the gaming-computer separate, under the cabinet. Back in December-2024, I freed-up my old Windows Daily-Driver, and dedicated it's use for my VPX/Pinscape Pinball cabinet. I migrated my old VPX install to it. 

 

Intel i7-7700K 4.2ghz (7th gen) with Asetek-Liquid-Cooler

16gb Kingston Hyper-X DDR4 ram

Nvidia GTX-1070 (8gb)

Samsung NVMe-SSD drives

Power Supply 850w

Windows 11 Pro (64-bit)

 

Playfield monitor is now a LG 32-inch 32QN600-B with 1440p 75Hz IPS-LCD FreeSync/GSync (2023 model) running on Nvidia DisplayPort (and GSync seems to be working).

I use a Pinscaped (NXP) KL25z for my buttons and accelerometer-nudging (awesome 100% working effect)

BuyStuffArcades controller for the backbox's AtGames 15-in 1080p LCD

My DMD (3rd monitor) is a Elecrow SH080 8-inch 1280x800 16:10 60-Hz IPS-LCD with Mini-HDMI

I've recently got some 7.1-channel SSF going with decent speakers and some ZK-TB21 2.1 Amps.

And I have a APC-1350w-UPS protecting the whole thing.

 

While the AtGames Plunger was authentic feeling/looking ... and even looked like it might be hardware-hackable and get working on my Pinscaped-KL25z. But the other day, I went-ahead and removed it and adapted the large-ish front cabinet hole to hold a Launch-Button instead (most of my top 5 games had launch-buttons/triggers in real-life anyway).

 

I took a closer look at the 4-button D-Pad. Turns-out it was easy to connect to KL-25z. D-Pad's Pin-1 is Ground, and Pin's 2-5 are the arrows buttons. So, now, I have Volume Up/Down buttons and a couple of spares (so no lack of buttons any more).

 

I use a mid-level 2.1 Computer-Speaker-Set (with a small woofer/sub-woofer box) for main-music (Front Channel) speakers. I used an old Dell Sound-Bar for lower-playfield/flippers, and the baby AtGames backbox speakers I now use for upper-playfield mechanical audio. Unless there is an actual hole for the sound to escape, the speakers are mounted underneath or cleverly/artfully outside the cabinet (so you can actually hear them).

 

Not counting the used (2017 model) Gaming-PC (or re-purposed used stuff from my closet), I figure I have only spent about $1100 on the ALP and getting it to this point (including the various iterations) . While it is only about 90% the size of real 1980's (non-widebody) it does not seem small in it's current 11x11 game-room. No one that has ever seen it or played it said it seemed smaller. It is very heavy and while I understand that wood is preferred over MDF, it is very sturdy. I was able to keep/re-use the nice AtGames playfield LCD bezel and framing (which also holds the glass). The playfield monitor is about an inch under the glass (which is thick and very heavy).

 

We are not particularly careful with it while playing it. Meaning we bump and nudge it pretty good sometimes, and the flippers get slapped hard sometimes (just like a real pinball machine).

Edited by Tesla, 20 September 2025 - 06:25 PM.

[Tesla]

I've been working on getting SSF-7.1 Audio going on my little DIY, pieced-together-from-closet VPin-cabinet. Hopefully this will show others (who don't have a lot of money to dump-into all this) that you can get some good-results on the cheap.

 

I liked the "flippers/lower-table" sounds from the old Dell-Speaker-Bar enough to go ahead and mount it (mostly hidden) under the front of the cabinet. In all these years, some of the first holes I've actually drilled into the cabinet. So we can actually hear them, I think this arrangement is best. It is 2.0, and has it's own built-in Amp that runs on 12-volts @ 1amp. It took me like 4-hours to plan it and cut/drill the wooden mount/adapter/ cabinet re-assembly and testing. I think it's because I was very careful and only wanted to do this once. 

 

https://drive.google...?usp=drive_link

 

The stock AtGames back-box speakers look like nice 3.5 inchers, but behind the large-grills, they are really just fairly-lame 2.5-inchers. I finally got a couple of ZK-TB21 2.1 Amps (running at 19volts) hooked up. I use one here, and made these speakers the "upper table" mechanical sounds (works well as you can hear them and the sound seems to be coming from proper area on the cabinet).

 

The other ZK-TB21 2.1 Amp I use only as a Sub-Woofer Amp for now. My real Home-Theater Subs-Woofers are all spoken-for, so I'm using an old Boston Acoustics BookShelf Speaker. It's hooked directly to RealTek Audio Card on computer in Center/Sub jack.

 

https://www.vpforums...=55962&p=547966

 

I use a mid-level 2.1 Computer-Speaker-Set for main music speakers. It also has it's own built-in Amp and runs from 120v. I can get really loud and thumpy, but I make an effort to keep it all balanced. I placed it's small woofer/sub-woofer box under the cabinet near the other (sorta faux) sub-woofer. It's Left/Right satellites are just soft-mounted to the top of the BackBox for now.

 

I found NirSoft's Sound-Volume-View to keep Windows from changing my config whenever it feels like it (ie, what "sound card" to use for each thing).

 

https://www.vpforums...=44555&p=548032

Edited by Tesla, 05 December 2025 - 01:16 AM.

[Tesla]

I did some more work on my cabinet. Sounds and plays even better now.

 

The new APC-1350-UPS is a keeper and everything is plugged into it (on the "Battery-Side"). I installed a proper/new Tripp-Lite main Power-Strip, a couple of small ferrite-cores and more-carefully re-ran all the cable to minimize a ground-loop hum I was getting after installing all the amps, power-supplies, and speakers for the poor-mans 7.1 SSF. 

 

https://www.vpforums...=55962&p=548110

 

Edit: Added this:

https://www.vpforums...=55962&p=548422

Edited by Tesla, 05 October 2025 - 03:32 PM.

[Tesla]

So after a couple of years of just having my LG 32-inch 32QN600 Monitor (1440p IPS 75Hz FreeSync) just laying down inside the ALP cabinet (on its back) on the cabinet's existing horizontal supports (on some dense foam of proper height) ...

 

... I finally installed it properly on a VESA thin wall mount. Surely, not as easy as it sounds.

 

Then, the steel-mount was modified (port access holes were too small), adapted, and mounted to those two upper horizontal cabinet MDF braces (using two 1x1/8-in Steel rails and 1/4 inch bolts) . Those steel-rails are "clamped-down" to the MDF supports with adjustable aluminum bars (see pics). I kept AtGame's (removable) nice black-plastic bezel (as it also holds the thick glass). Finally, I modified the bezels left mounting rail, Dremeling-off 3mm, so now the monitor's LCD-panel is perfectly centered. 

 

It's all screwed-down and level now, but fully adjustable later (or removable for maintenance). Nothing is actually touching the actual LCD-panel of the monitor (the bezel hovers above the panel about 2-3mm on edges). I think this monitor mounting now basically looks aesthetically the same as when the old (bare) 1080p panel was installed.

 

The last pic of VESA-mount on the Google-Drive is still missing the glass and rails so you can see the install better (but one of the other pics up there shows those installed)

 

https://drive.google...?usp=drive_link

Edited by Tesla, 25 October 2025 - 04:42 PM.

[Tesla]

So, I have (and use) one of these.

 

https://www.buystuff...=43602325602529

 

Right now, it's just on some minimal plastic standoffs, foam-taped to the inside of the backbox.

 

I purchased a small aluminum project-box to mount it in. I'm hoping to shield it's EMI from affecting the 15-inch LCD-panel (just 1 inch away), the speakers (just inches away), and maybe even HDMI and it's 12v power. Also to finally give it a chassis-ground.

 

Question:

Notice how to mounting holes have grounding pads (and even some solder to help with a good-grounding connection to the "chassis"). While the nice/sturdy plastic-stand-offs I'm using don't really facilitate it, should the PCB be grounded to the whole aluminum-box anyway ... and treat the box as "the chassis"? 

 

The bulk of this cabinet ... I'm just seeing MDF, wood, and plastic ...

Edited by Tesla, 28 September 2025 - 06:11 PM.

[rickh]

No shielding is necessary unless you need FCC compliance.

 

Rick 

[Tesla]

I installed my BuyStuffArcades HDMI-Controller-Board (for the AtGames 15-in Backglass 1080p LCD-Panel) in a metal aluminum box.

https://www.buystuff...=43602325602529

 

For shielding, grounding, and to give it more of a "chassis". I suppose the back is like the chassis, the cover is like the shield, and they are both tied to the board's grounding pads. The new stand-offs are nice, but plastic ... so I created and installed a grounding-wire. 

 

I double-checked with an ohm-meter, and with a bare (un-mounted) PCB, all those pads are already tied together and tied to ground.

 

I also used the Google Translate App (camera function) to read the board's Chinese meus in real-time. Now that I can actually read it a little, I was finally able to scroll to a hidden/buried menu and change the Language to ENGLISH. Also, increased the OSD Menu timing-delay that was inconveniently short. I then set the Brightness and Contrast a little better. Interestingly, you can even adjust the actual back-light intensity separately.  Now, it looks very sharp, bright, and pretty (but blacks are still black). Totally different feel now that I can actually read and use the menus natively. And it goes without saying ... none of this was possible with the old proprietary AtGames backglass-LCD controller.

 

Some pics are on my GoogleDrive with the others:

https://drive.google...?usp=drive_link

Edited by Tesla, 05 October 2025 - 02:52 PM.

[Tesla]

In the vein of taking-care of long-overdue projects with my gutted AtGames Legends Pinball, I finally got around to the Power-Supply. It has been turned-off, but I left it installed ... I wanted to see if it could be used in some way before I just ripped it out.

 

It is a "open-frame" Saqcn SDL-125c SMPS. Looks like it sells for about $60 used on Ebay.

 

Product Name: SDL-125C

Specifications: Boost two-in-one power board output 12V-6A + backlight with jumper cap to support liquid crystal products within 65 inches

Product size: 180*100*16

Rated power: 150W

Efficiency: 88%

Over Voltage Protection, Over Current, Short Circuit Protection

 

Input voltage: AC 90~264V

DC output voltage 1: DC 12v @ 6-Amps

DC output voltage 2: DC 40-60V @ 480-mA

 

If you kept your AtGames 32-inch IPS-LCD (1080p @ 60 Hz) then you are still using it and need it (so be careful how you mess with it). Looks fairly substantial and well-designed inside. I certainly WOULD NOT run it un-mounted or without the cover on it.

 

Ignoring the other voltage, looks like a single-rail for the 12-volts. The 12-volt is outputted to the ALP's motherboard using two JST-like (6 and 8 pin) connectors, over multiple 22awg wires (I suppose to handle the Amps). As the 12v leaves the SMPS, all the positive pins are tied together, and so are the negative pins. Pins of each are also tied-together as the two-groups connect to the motherboard.

 

The two supplied cables were actually smaller than JST and I don't have mates, so I cut them off. I soldered the individual wires to a small breadboard directly and created 3-sets of 12v (with all the grounds tied together). Out of the 14-pins, 2 of them were labelled ADJ & EN (on the PCBs) and I just left them disconnected. I installed some 2-pin JST-XH's and a set of PCB-mount Screw-Terminals to tap into the 12v power. 

 

Seems to be working fine. I now have it powering the HDMI controller for the ALP's 15-in 1080p LCD and the Dell-Sound-Bar with built-in Amp (for Realtek Front Left-right audio-channel) ... my only two delicate 12v sub-components.

 

I have plenty of old PC-Power-Supplies around here in old computers (IIRC, even a nice Corsair 500w in a retired build). I have no lighted-buttons or lights ... so no major need for 5-volts at this time (but I am using a fairly beefy USB-Based charger to power some things). If I need to go ahead and swap-out this SDL-125C SMPS, I certainly can. But for now I suppose I'll keep it installed and use it. I was always curious about it.

 

Good to have those 4 pending sub-projects on the cabinet done:

- VESA-mounted playfield monitor
- Better mounted and shielded HDMI controller (and English turned-on)

- SSF-7.1 implemented with speakers and Amps

- Old AtGames SMPS put to use.

 

Onto next project ... newer things now.

Edited by Tesla, 05 October 2025 - 03:44 PM.

[Tesla]

I have now upgraded my cabinet to be DOF-capable. This is still VPX 7.2 / PinMame 3.5 /  B2S-Server v1.41 ...

... so I used both the x86/32bit and 64bit MSI installer files.

 

https://www.vpforums...=56035&p=548522

 

I also now have my first Pinscape Feedback Device working on my little KL25z (with soldered-in headers)... a Replay-Knocker. Very cool I think.

 

https://www.vpforums...=56035&p=548765

 

EDIT: I swapped-out the solenoid to make it louder, and permanently installed it inside Backbox . So now, you can easily hear it over the table's music.

 

https://www.vpforums...=56035&p=551867

Edited by Tesla, 08 March 2026 - 11:32 PM.

[Tesla]

I drilled some ventilation holes in my ALP cabinet's Back-Box cover (so now, I can finally start using the cover again).

 

https://www.vpforums...=51113&p=548965

 

I had these main/front speakers (woofer/amp box is under the cabinet) soft-mounted to the top of the back-box, but now they are sorta-hidden in back and mounted to the cover itself. At first, I was going to just have the speakers wires external, but really no reason to not use the vent holes. That pic is not so good ... but the two vent-holes are well-beside the speakers (not partially under them). This no-name 2.1 speaker-set might look lame but it was free (in my closet) and sounds good.

 

The ALP's real back-box speakers are only 2-inchers, so I use those for "upper mechanical sounds" and that adds a nice "realism effect". It's hard to appreciate SSF-7.1 until you actually have it (with different sounds coming from different places).

 

https://drive.google...IP&usp=drive_fs

 

Baby steps ... <smile>

Edited by Tesla, 26 October 2025 - 05:14 PM.

[Tesla]

@PinballWitch

 

I fired-up Apollo-13 and it works fine here. Like the others, I also migrated other files like .nvram (so my ROM Volume-setting and High-Score was still there) .

 

All I had to do is drag the DMD to Screen-3. The DMD active-artwork with the spelling-word was already in-place also (because I brought-over my .res file). Plays fine for me.

 

So, that is 7 of 40 re-validated on my migrated install. These 7, I made them Favorites in Pinball-Y and temporarily told it to just show us the Favorites in the Selector-Wheel (never used it before but very nice feature)

Edited by Tesla, 27 October 2025 - 04:26 AM.

[Tesla]

OK, now up to 11 (favorite) Tables all adjusted-up and playing fine. I guess I'll shoot for Top-20 (of 40). I did:

 

Black Knight: So I can test-out my Magna-Save buttons. There are some Accessibility options with CTRL-keys that needs to be disabled in Windows-11.

Getaway - High Speed 2: easy-pessy re-config as it was just F1-vPinMame stuff.

Star Trek - 25th Anniversary: After re-config, I played it's Multi-Ball and the beaming is portrayed on the B2S I have, (so that was cool)

The Addams Family - I could get any ROM sounds to work (music, voices etc.) on my old Bigus release. I found G5K's old release (still works on v10.7.2) and got BlackSad's B2S for the spelling-word. So that one is done also.

 

The other day:

Rescue-911  Migrated my old memcard file as well, so my adjusted audio channel/voices didn't have to be redone

Flash Gordon ... as per one of the Table-Developers ... went ahead and enabled ALL the F6-Dip-Switches for a slightly easier game.

Edited by Tesla, 09 March 2026 - 12:05 AM.

[Tesla]

Added a Switch-Panel and a Night-Mode Switch.

 

I found this little plastic-box in my garage (I knew it would be good for something one day) <smile>

 

Again, a modular style (so it can be easily relocated as needed, and that's why there are extra side holes). This black MDF board is where the AtGames motherboard was originally mounted. I was thinking it might eventually be a good place to hold my amps or something later (so I left it installed for now).

 

The switch-panel will hold up to 3-switches, so I pre-drilled for the extra switches and pre-wired with the required 4 wires (26awg with Dupont pins for the wiring harness). The Night-Mode toggle-switch is configured and passes the Pinscape Config-Tool switch-test.

 

https://drive.google...?usp=drive_link

 

These pics are named switch-panel*.jpg

 

Please excuse my "messy wire" cabinet. It's quite an ordeal to remove the playfield monitor, so I just have a little access space in the front, and about the same in the back. It's not pretty but it works. My 2-power-strips (one is Energy-Saving with Master) are both screw-mounted to outside of cabinet back here. The Windows-11 gaming-PC is on the floor (hiding underneath the cabinet).

Edited by Tesla, 04 November 2025 - 05:45 AM.

[Tesla]

I originally setup my SSF-7.1 with a mixture of new-stuff and parts from my closet (some combo 2.0/2.1 speaker-sets with built-in amps). My whole cabinet powers down with a power-sensing Smart-Power-Strip (with the computer as the control). I don't mess with any amp knobs or switches before powering-down. All is good except the loud speaker thump/pop when AC-power is finally cut (especially the ZK-TB21, but I've seen other inexpensive amps do it). The pop/thump is instantaneous, so turning it all off at once didn't help. While in a residence, we play the cabinet while all are awake, so we tend to have the volume turned-up to arcade-like levels.

 

I designed this "Speaker Protection Box". It's easily expandable with more $10 3-Relay Speakers Boards (one more inside, and even more along-side). Here are the parts. Right now, the connected ZK-TB21 is running the ALP's back-box speakers. I think the relays (right before speaker outputs) is why my Denon-AVR in the living-room doesn't pop/thump when powered-down.

 

Laptop AC-Adapter SMPS 19v-DC @ 3.5amps (more power is better for ZK-TB21)

LM2596 Buck-Converter with LED ( drops 19v down to 12v for the 3-Relay Speaker Protection Boards and Shelly-1)

3-Relay Speaker Protection Board ( 3-channels with isolated-grounds, like ZK-TB21 and other Class-4 amps)

ZK-TB21 2.1 3-Channel Class-4 150w Amp

Shelly-1_Gen4 WiFi Relay-Switch Programmable (Dry-Contacts / Potential-Free Contacts)

18awg stranded wire with crimped ferrules and lugs

 

I just got it installed in the cabinet and it works fine.

 

I control the Shelly-Switch with a couple of batch-files. In Windows-11 Group Policy Editor for Startup & ShutDown.

These are mainly Curl commands sent as RPC-over-HTTP (using only your local network and WiFi).

One activates the Relays (so speakers are disconnected) a few seconds before power is finally actually cut at the power-strip... it works perfectly with no-more pop or thumping.

Since the speakers are disconnected, you need the opposite commands to switch the relays, so they are re-connected at Windows startup (before the PinballY Front-End loads).

Even with the extra wires and relays on the output-stage, the "sound floor" is still quiet and the speakers sound the same when played loudly near max. volume.

 

It turned out to be a lot of work, but I learnt some new tech and techniques, and found some cool new modules. Plus, that popping really bugged me (and can't be good for the speakers). On the Internet, I saw some guys installing those Protection-Boards on vintage-amps and radios (since, even when new, they popped on power-down). Also, on custom car-audio installs.

 

Here it is installed. This black vertical panel is at the back of my ALP's lower cabinet (and I keep the cover off for ventilation). The middle vertical-bundle of cables in front is not part of it.

 

 

Google Drive pics (Those pictured Realistic speakers were just used for bench-testing/design):

https://drive.google...?usp=drive_link

Edited by Tesla, 09 March 2026 - 07:26 PM.

[Keroppi]

@Tesla I thoroughly enjoyed this build log, thank you for that. Gives me some ideas for what is probably the inevitable.

 

I just picked up my ALP, and it's dead as a doornail, down to the screen backlights.

I was hoping you could help me out with the power supply.

I metered out the ribbons, they are all 12V except for the ADJ line which is coming up ~4VDC.

I noticed you are running it separately as a 12V source...your research (and my assumptions) is this should be putting out 48V-60VDC on the backlight inverter connector. Mine is putting out a whopping ~1.5VDC.

Datasheet for this PS is impossible to find, and I know that some power supplies can act wildly differently without the expected load...is it possible you could do me a solid and throw a meter on the backlight pins and let me know what you get?

I'd highly suspect the power supply, but then with a solid 12V, I'd expect the machine to play blind, which it's not. (maybe the mainboard AND power is kaput...it would explain the $130 I paid for it)...

Regardless, Thanks!!

[Tesla]

@Tesla I thoroughly enjoyed this build log, thank you for that. Gives me some ideas for what is probably the inevitable.

 

I just picked up my ALP, and it's dead as a doornail, down to the screen backlights.

I was hoping you could help me out with the power supply.

I metered out the ribbons, they are all 12V except for the ADJ line which is coming up ~4VDC.

I noticed you are running it separately as a 12V source...your research (and my assumptions) is this should be putting out 48V-60VDC on the backlight inverter connector. Mine is putting out a whopping ~1.5VDC.

Datasheet for this PS is impossible to find, and I know that some power supplies can act wildly differently without the expected load...is it possible you could do me a solid and throw a meter on the backlight pins and let me know what you get?

I'd highly suspect the power supply, but then with a solid 12V, I'd expect the machine to play blind, which it's not. (maybe the mainboard AND power is kaput...it would explain the $130 I paid for it)...

Regardless, Thanks!!

 

I'm so glad you got some use from my build log.

 

But yeah, if you are going to try to use the existing 1080p 32-inch playfield monitor (and the AtGames motherboard, etc.) ... you do need the ALP's Power-Supply (or a replacement ... I saw some on eBay and other places). I did find some basic datasheets.

 

Sounds like you know electronics, so I'll try to help you. Problem is, if that dual-voltage SMPS is blown, it would be hard to fix the SDL-125C without a schematic. Sounds like it might be blown and not allowing itself to power-up fully.

 

So ... yes ... I measured 12-volts on those 2 cables that used to go to the ALP's motherboard (IIRC).

- I think they run it over multiple wires so it can handle the required 6-amps on small wires.

- I think it's really just one 12-volt rail (ie circuit) inside the SDL-125C . They split-it into 2 cables right there on that side where the connectors are. But then, they put a 0-Ohm Resistor between them, so again ... back to just a single rail.

- I treat all that 12v as 3-outputs (they should all be able to handle 2 amps each).

- Obviously, they output voltage with "nothing connected".

- Did someone mess with the power-switch? I'm wondering if hot and neutral on the 120v-Input might NOT be interchangable.

 

ADJ & EN normally go straight to the ALP-MB (IIRC). I could not tell what they are for, (and I just wanted/needed12volts) ... so I left them disconnected. 

 

The connector with 2nd DC output voltage of DC 40-60V @ 480-mA does still work on mine (I measured it one last time while I was messing with it). It also even outputs with nothing attached. Be careful with this one as it is very high-voltage (as is typical with LCD Inverters) but also notice how super thin the wires are (low amps). I just made sure nothing was attached there.

 

You can have my old main motherboard if you really want it. I think it works but not really sure. I've always been more interested in OTG-Mode (so I could run VPX) . But since there was still a bit of lag with OTG, I really needed to go native with it (I have plenty of real gaming computers to dedicate to it).

 

I'm stull using the ALP's original backbox LCD (with a BuyStuffArcade LCD-to-HDMI controller-board), their speakers, and some other things are still original. The (90% scale) cabinet is a good size for me. I've probably spend about $1500 on it over the years and it's been a lot of fun. Better than robots, but not sure if better than by DIY drones. 

 

I just updated my Aurora-R6 and I think (hope) it makes it past this CA-2023 thing coming up.

[Keroppi]

Thanks for the response! I just noticed you're in Texas...I am in Spring, TX myself.

 

Yeah if you got a full DC output on the backlight outputs with nothing attached, the power supply is definitely kaput.

They're about $80 on ebay, just not sure if it's worth it if the mainboard is questionable (and I may end up going your route anyways)...I have no time or interest in trying to fix it. 

The switch wasn't messed with, the seller stated it just quit working. Actually the 120V led in the rocker is the only actual sign of life it has. 

I do probably have 12V/48V power supplies laying around, but if I dike up the power wires it would be super annoying to have to re-splice them if I wanted to go back to stock.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the (EN) wire is for ENable, like a PWR_OK (power signal good) wire in ATX.

Problem is, I don't know if it's supposed to stay low, go high, or even if high is 3.3V or 5V logic level....I may have found the same "basic datasheets" as well...nothing with a pinout or much that was useful.

I appreciate the offer for your old board, but I don't want to hassle you if all this needs is a switcher or 2..I might take you up on that though!

At this point I would just really need to know what exact voltages the ADJ/EN/Backlight connectors *should* be reading as, and I could probably cobble together a bench test for the board.

If I do end up gutting it, that BuyStuff board is out of stock, but I assume I could probably grab any eDP 1080p controller off amazon. I also have a 22" 4:3 LCD that I might be able to stuff in, I need to measure...decisions, decisions.

 

And yeah, I think the secure boot fiasco is about to be a pain in everyone's ass LOL

[Tesla]

 

1. I do probably have 12V/48V power supplies laying around, 

 

2. I have a sneaking suspicion that the (EN) wire is for ENable, like a PWR_OK (power signal good) wire in ATX.

 

3. If I do end up gutting it, that BuyStuff board is out of stock, but I assume I could probably grab any eDP 1080p controller off amazon. I also have a 22" 4:3 LCD that I might be able to stuff in, I need to measure...decisions, decisions.

 

 

 

1. So yeah, it's weird the PS for the LCD-Inverter isn't part of the 32in-LCD itself, but this thing is definitely purpose built (and as cheap as possible). I paid $400 for mine new and it shipped-free.

 

2. At first, I was thinking similar. But remember that I don't even have those pins connected (or even an ALP-MB in cabinet) and the SMPS is outputting both voltages just fine. 

 

3. IIRC, those guys are in Canada . They might have one laying around still. That is for the little backbox LCD. The one for the 32in-LCD comes from eBay/Amazon.  Just be very careful with those (now un-keyed) cables and LVDS header.

 

So, if I understand you correctly ... why not connect everything normally? If getting 12v, the motherboard should run. If everything is working (except the 32in playfield LCD back-light) you should be able to shine a flashlight into front of 32in LCD and that should be enough light for you to see if it's actually working.

 

The backbox LCD would also be running normally.

 

IIRC, the backbox "Legends Pinball" marque light is like 5v-DC and that is generated on the MB and sent up there with the speaker wires.

Edited by Tesla, 03 April 2026 - 06:41 PM.

[Keroppi]

It IS all connected and doesn't run. No life, no heat on heatsink, etc...but everything runs off the mainboard, and there's the disconnect.

 

Why I am questioning the EN/ADJ signals is that: while yes, the psu is in fact outputting 12V (who knows if it's so broken that it would let all 6A be pulled through it), I think ALL the remaining voltages are either not outputting or are outputting incorrectly...literally everything that is not 12V is suspect, and the mainboard uses 2 of those lines for *something*. 

 

"If getting 12v, the motherboard should run." <<<  Whatever psu damage is causing the backlight connector to output ~1.5V, may (probably) be affecting one or both of those remaining 2 lines, so my suspicion is therefore that the board needs more than the 12V to run. I think the mainboard might not be getting the voltage it needs to get on one/both of the remaining 2 lines to say "ok turn on now"...which would explain everything else. 

 

One of the lines is reading 4.1V and the other 0V. I need to go double check which is which, but I also just found a youtube video that indicates one of the lines should be 3.3V...which is definitely not promising LOL

 

I am willing to bet this SMPS outputs all it's lines constantly, so my speculation is that whatever the EN/ADJ read as on a good working power supply are what the board wants. Once I replicate everything, I can be sure. The backlight is a bit less important, as I could tune a 48V psu down to 40V and work from there to see what the panel wants.