975 replies to this topic

[mjr]

Well, as it seems to be a software problem and not a hardware problem, wouldn't it be an easier solution to just run Windows from a Virtual Machine and update the bootloader from there.

 

That does work, and the config tool provides detailed instructions on the procedure to set up a virtual Windows 7 box on a Windows host machine.  The snag is that it's a pretty complicated and time-consuming procedure to set up the VM if you don't already have one running, so I'd only recommend it for people who already have this set up or who would have to go way out of their way to get access to an old XP/Win 7 machine.

 

What I'd really like to figure out is a way to do this from a bootable DOS image or something like that - something you could put on a USB stick and boot from, and do the firmware update from that environment.  There are a couple of open source projects out there along those lines, but I haven't researched if any of them would work for this application.

Edited by mjr, 13 August 2016 - 06:07 PM.

[Pete248]

I find it even less complicated to setup Windows on a VM than on a real PC. You can use an installer image instead a CD, which speeds up things significantly.

The problem is to do all the online updates. It takes forever. But that is true for a real PC either.

That said nothing beats an existing installation of cause.

[Danan]

Hello i have a problem whit the plunger sensor TSL 1410 R.

I have check´t my wiring and i cant find anything wrong.

But when i try to set it up in the setup program it doesn't work the bar just flickering back and fort gray scale.

 

And i get this?

https://goo.gl/photos/kVJmKGdnm96yoVnT9

 

Anyone how can help me i am completely stuck!!

 

[mjr]

 

Hello i have a problem whit the plunger sensor TSL 1410 R.

I have check´t my wiring and i cant find anything wrong.

But when i try to set it up in the setup program it doesn't work the bar just flickering back and fort gray scale.

 

And i get this?

https://goo.gl/photos/kVJmKGdnm96yoVnT9

 

Anyone how can help me i am completely stuck!!

 

You might have a software configuration problem.  The red "!" symbols next to the TSL1410R pin assignments in the config window are telling you that you have a conflict in your pins.  It looks like you have both SI and AO assigned to the same pin - PTB0.  

 

If you're using the standard physical wiring to the KL25Z pins as shown in the Build Guide, these should be set as follows:

 

SI = PTE20

SCLK = PTE21

AO = PTB0

 

So it looks like SI got changed from the default.  The first thing to try is to just set that back to PTE20 and see if that helps.  Be sure to save the new settings to the KL25Z by clicking the "Program KL25Z" button after making the change.

 

Of course, if you actually connected the sensor wires to different KL25Z pins, you'll need to set the software configuration to match.  But if you did the wiring as shown in the book, you want the standard software settings (the ones I just listed).

 

By the way, any time you see the red "!" icon shown next to a pin assignment in the config tool, you can click on the icon to see a more detailed message explaining what's wrong.  In this case, the warning is going to tell you that you have the same pin assigned for two separate (and conflicting) uses.

Edited by mjr, 18 August 2016 - 04:48 AM.

[Danan]

 

 

Hello i have a problem whit the plunger sensor TSL 1410 R.

I have check´t my wiring and i cant find anything wrong.

But when i try to set it up in the setup program it doesn't work the bar just flickering back and fort gray scale.

 

And i get this?

https://goo.gl/photos/kVJmKGdnm96yoVnT9

 

Anyone how can help me i am completely stuck!!

 

You might have a software configuration problem.  The red "!" symbols next to the TSL1410R pin assignments in the config window are telling you that you have a conflict in your pins.  It looks like you have both SI and AO assigned to the same pin - PTB0.  

 

If you're using the standard physical wiring to the KL25Z pins as shown in the Build Guide, these should be set as follows:

 

SI = PTE20

SCLK = PTE21

AO = PTB0

 

So it looks like SI got changed from the default.  The first thing to try is to just set that back to PTE20 and see if that helps.  Be sure to save the new settings to the KL25Z by clicking the "Program KL25Z" button after making the change.

 

Of course, if you actually connected the sensor wires to different KL25Z pins, you'll need to set the software configuration to match.  But if you did the wiring as shown in the book, you want the standard software settings (the ones I just listed).

 

By the way, any time you see the red "!" icon shown next to a pin assignment in the config tool, you can click on the icon to see a more detailed message explaining what's wrong.  In this case, the warning is going to tell you that you have the same pin assigned for two separate (and conflicting) uses.

 

That is just my problem i have wired everything like you show in the .pdf file and updated the KL25Z.

When i program the KL25Z as you show it reboots and when i scroll down to calibrate the plunger i get the error.

The bar that show the sensor in the calibration program is gray and flicker back and fort.

When i first updated the KL25Z to v.2 i was able to calibrate the plunger and see it move in the calibration program

but when i launched VP10 and set that up it was not working in the program so went back to the setup program for KL25Z and then the errors where showing up.

[Pete248]

Is it possible to wire 2 potentiometers to the Pinscape board and use these as volume controls for the sound for music and sampled sounds for output devices?

Alternatively 2 Arcade wheels / spinner?

The amplifier I plan to use has no remote controls, so I can do it only via software.

Cheers

Pete

Edited by Pete248, 21 August 2016 - 10:45 AM.

[mjr]

That is just my problem i have wired everything like you show in the .pdf file and updated the KL25Z.

When i program the KL25Z as you show it reboots and when i scroll down to calibrate the plunger i get the error.

The bar that show the sensor in the calibration program is gray and flicker back and fort.

When i first updated the KL25Z to v.2 i was able to calibrate the plunger and see it move in the calibration program

but when i launched VP10 and set that up it was not working in the program so went back to the setup program for KL25Z and then the errors where showing up.

 

Could you post a screen shot of the setup page showing the plunger settings AFTER you reprogram it with the correct pin settings?

 

1. Close the config tool if it's open

2. Launch the config tool again

3. Go to the Setting page

4. Scroll down to the plunger pin settings

5. Take a screen shot

 

 I just want to make sure that your pin setting updates are being remembered properly in the controller itself, to rule out some problem with storing the settings.

[Danan]

 

That is just my problem i have wired everything like you show in the .pdf file and updated the KL25Z.

When i program the KL25Z as you show it reboots and when i scroll down to calibrate the plunger i get the error.

The bar that show the sensor in the calibration program is gray and flicker back and fort.

When i first updated the KL25Z to v.2 i was able to calibrate the plunger and see it move in the calibration program

but when i launched VP10 and set that up it was not working in the program so went back to the setup program for KL25Z and then the errors where showing up.

 

Could you post a screen shot of the setup page showing the plunger settings AFTER you reprogram it with the correct pin settings?

 

1. Close the config tool if it's open

2. Launch the config tool again

3. Go to the Setting page

4. Scroll down to the plunger pin settings

5. Take a screen shot

 

 I just want to make sure that your pin setting updates are being remembered properly in the controller itself, to rule out some problem with storing the settings.

 

Okay i have now tested that but it doesn't work!

https://goo.gl/photos/JB5cspFLVRTmGp5C9

I Changed the wires and programed AO to PTE20 and SI to PTB0 and that worked but the reading from the sensor was not right.

Half of the screen was black as it should but the front half was just flickering from gray to black.

Do you think the sensor is broken? 

[mjr]

Okay i have now tested that but it doesn't work!

https://goo.gl/photos/JB5cspFLVRTmGp5C9

I Changed the wires and programed AO to PTE20 and SI to PTB0 and that worked but the reading from the sensor was not right.

Half of the screen was black as it should but the front half was just flickering from gray to black.

Do you think the sensor is broken? 

 

Hmm... looks like your configuration is still wrong.  You need to change AO to PTE20.  To do this:

 

1.  Go the settings page as shown in your photo

2.  Click in the box next to "SI (serial data") where it currently says "PTB0"

3.  That'll bring up a pin selector.  Choose "PTE20" from the list.  Click on it.

4.  The "SI (serial data)" box should now show "PTE20".

5.  Scroll down to the very bottom of the page.  Click "Program KL25Z"

6.  Wait for the controller to reset and the settings page to be refreshed

7.  Go back to the plunger sensor section and double-check that "SI (serial data)" still says PTE20.

[mjr]

Is it possible to wire 2 potentiometers to the Pinscape board and use these as volume controls for the sound for music and sampled sounds for output devices?

Alternatively 2 Arcade wheels / spinner?

The amplifier I plan to use has no remote controls, so I can do it only via software.

 

The software doesn't have any provision for that exactly, but what you could do is use a pair of buttons wired as key inputs, and assign them to the VOLUME UP and VOLUME DOWN keys.  That would at least let you control the Windows master system volume.  It wouldn't give you independent control for the two channels, but in my experience the master volume is all you need anyway.

[Danan]

 

Okay i have now tested that but it doesn't work!

https://goo.gl/photos/JB5cspFLVRTmGp5C9

I Changed the wires and programed AO to PTE20 and SI to PTB0 and that worked but the reading from the sensor was not right.

Half of the screen was black as it should but the front half was just flickering from gray to black.

Do you think the sensor is broken? 

 

Hmm... looks like your configuration is still wrong.  You need to change AO to PTE20.  To do this:

 

1.  Go the settings page as shown in your photo

2.  Click in the box next to "SI (serial data") where it currently says "PTB0"

3.  That'll bring up a pin selector.  Choose "PTE20" from the list.  Click on it.

4.  The "SI (serial data)" box should now show "PTE20".

5.  Scroll down to the very bottom of the page.  Click "Program KL25Z"

6.  Wait for the controller to reset and the settings page to be refreshed

7.  Go back to the plunger sensor section and double-check that "SI (serial data)" still says PTE20.

 

That's my problem you see when i click program KL25Z and the controller reboots and i scroll down again i see what the picture shows every time i try!

Only time i get the settings to stick is when i set SI to PTB0, CLK to PTE21 and AO to PTE20.

Why is that you think have i broken something?

[mjr]

That's my problem you see when i click program KL25Z and the controller reboots and i scroll down again i see what the picture shows every time i try!

Only time i get the settings to stick is when i set SI to PTB0, CLK to PTE21 and AO to PTE20.

 

This is definitely the problem to focus on.  Nothing else can work if the software configuration is wrong.

 

I doubt this will help, but you might try re-installing a fresh copy of the firmware.  Make sure the version you're using is the latest.  The build date should be 2016-06-14.  

 

The reason I doubt this will help is that it probably wouldn't be working at all if something got corrupted in the download process - the symptom you're having is more like a bug than an outright corruption.  But I don't have any other guesses right now about what would be causing this particular problem.

 

If it still does the same thing after a fresh install, try posting a screen capture of the ENTIRE config page showing all options down the whole page.  You might have to take a couple of snapshots at different scroll positions to capture the whole thing.  Maybe there's some other conflict that I'm not seeing.

[Mace]

Hi Mike,

 

I need a little help please, my V2 set up has been running quite happily for some time with DOF R3. Today I decided to change my Pinscape input config from joystick buttons to keyboard input - all was well until I loaded VPinball when it crashed on the table load.

 

I remembered that I needed your patched DOF R3 version and installed that which fixed the VPinball issues straight away, so far so good. Unfortunately now every time I run LedBlinkey I get this Ledwiz.dll access violation error:- https://1drv.ms/i/s!...fBzdzEwL61pvkhw

 

It goes away as soon as I unplug the Pinscape, I have a Ledwiz in the cab set to #1 and the Pinscape is in Ledwiz emulation set to #8, everything's been great up to now so I'd be grateful for any pointers if you have seen this one before.....

 

Cheers

Edited by Mace, 23 August 2016 - 06:01 PM.

[mjr]

I remembered that I needed your patched DOF R3 version and installed that which fixed the VPinball issues straight away, so far so good. Unfortunately now every time I run LedBlinkey I get this Ledwiz.dll access violation error:- https://1drv.ms/i/s!...fBzdzEwL61pvkhw

 

It goes away as soon as I unplug the Pinscape, I have a Ledwiz in the cab set to #1 and the Pinscape is in Ledwiz emulation set to #8, everything's been great up to now so I'd be grateful for any pointers if you have seen this one before.....

 

Yep, I have seen that before, and it's in fact the main thing that the modified DOF R3 addresses.  

 

The technical issue is that LedWiz.dll assumes that there's only one software interface per LedWiz, but when you enable the keyboard buttons, the Pinscape software creates two interfaces, one for the joystick and one for the keyboard.  I spent a while analyzing the LedWiz DLL and trying to come up with a workaround, but that was unsuccessful - the DLL has a really deeply rooted assumption about there being only one interface, and it corrupts its internal memory if this isn't true.  

 

The modified DOF R3 solves it by bypassing the LedWiz DLL entirely and talking directly to the USB interface.  However, that doesn't solve your problem with LedBlinky, because that goes through the DLL rather than through DOF.  For that, you're going to need a modified version of the LedWiz DLL.  Fortunately, there's an open source clone of the DLL that I've fixed to deal with this issue.  I didn't want anyone to have to mess with that, which is why I made the change in DOF to eliminate the DLL entirely, but for legacy non-DOF software like LedBlinky, there's no other way than to fix the DLL.  I'll dig that up and post it - I'll let you know when it's available.

[Danan]

 

That's my problem you see when i click program KL25Z and the controller reboots and i scroll down again i see what the picture shows every time i try!

Only time i get the settings to stick is when i set SI to PTB0, CLK to PTE21 and AO to PTE20.

 

This is definitely the problem to focus on.  Nothing else can work if the software configuration is wrong.

 

I doubt this will help, but you might try re-installing a fresh copy of the firmware.  Make sure the version you're using is the latest.  The build date should be 2016-06-14.  

 

The reason I doubt this will help is that it probably wouldn't be working at all if something got corrupted in the download process - the symptom you're having is more like a bug than an outright corruption.  But I don't have any other guesses right now about what would be causing this particular problem.

 

If it still does the same thing after a fresh install, try posting a screen capture of the ENTIRE config page showing all options down the whole page.  You might have to take a couple of snapshots at different scroll positions to capture the whole thing.  Maybe there's some other conflict that I'm not seeing.

 

I installed a new boot loader and re installed the firmware and now it seams like the configuration sticks.

But when i open calibration screen only half of the sensor snap shot is black the other one seams to just flicker a little now end then.

https://goo.gl/photos/5ijHRt7r8JsbGL1i7

Hard to see i know but you maybe can get the idea of what i am trying to say.

[mjr]

I installed a new boot loader and re installed the firmware and now it seams like the configuration sticks.

But when i open calibration screen only half of the sensor snap shot is black the other one seams to just flicker a little now end then.

https://goo.gl/photos/5ijHRt7r8JsbGL1i7

Hard to see i know but you maybe can get the idea of what i am trying to say.

 

I'd recommend trying a brighter light source to see if that makes any difference.

[Danan]

I installed a new boot loader and re installed the firmware and now it seams like the configuration sticks.
But when i open calibration screen only half of the sensor snap shot is black the other one seams to just flicker a little now end then.
https://goo.gl/photos/5ijHRt7r8JsbGL1i7
Hard to see i know but you maybe can get the idea of what i am trying to say.

 
I'd recommend trying a brighter light source to see if that makes any difference.

Sorry for spamming the thread but i can't get this to work properly.
The sensor calibration screen shows only half of the sensor screen, the one nearest the front of my cabinet.
When I pull out the plunger the top half just flicker gray to black and when the plunger passes over to the front portion of the sensor I see it change from black to white but the top half just keeps flickering!
Hope this makes sense I don't know how to film this so you can se it clearly.

[mjr]

Sorry for spamming the thread but i can't get this to work properly.

The sensor calibration screen shows only half of the sensor screen, the one nearest the front of my cabinet.
When I pull out the plunger the top half just flicker gray to black and when the plunger passes over to the front portion of the sensor I see it change from black to white but the top half just keeps flickering!

 

Given that it's exactly half that's not working, I have a guess.  The physical sensor is actually *two* sensors, each covering half the distance.  They're positioned right next to each other to create the effect of one continuous column of pixels, but they really are two independent devices on the inside of the package.  

 

So there are two main possibilities here.  One is that you have something wrong in the wiring that's connecting the two half sensors.  You should go back over the wiring diagram in the Build Guide and compare it to the wiring on your sensor, paying particular attention to the sensor pins that are wired to each other.  Pins 2, 3, and 9 need to all be connected together, pins 7 and 8 need to be connected to each other, and pins 6 and 12 need to be connected together.  Visually confirm that they're all connected, and if you have a multimeter, do a continuity test to verify that the solder connections are good.

 

The other possibility is that one of the half-sensors is broken.  If you're certain that the wiring is all correct, and you're getting good pixel readings over half of the image, this might be what's going on.  The good pixel readings on half mean that the wiring to the KL25Z must be good and the software settings must be working.

 

Hopefully it's just in the wiring.  A couple of other people have had sensors that arrived dead, so it's not impossible that you have a defective one, but I wouldn't jump to that assumption until you're absolutely certain it's not the wiring.  And I'd test continuity with a meter before deciding the wiring is good, since it's really easy to have a solder joint that looks perfectly good to the eye but isn't electrically conductive.

[patpat]

MJR

Are you taking orders of the main board? If so what the total cost to send it to Australia?

Cheers

[roar]

If mjr isn't up for shipping to Australia let me know... I'm assuming you're talking about the expansion boards and not a KL25Z. Only looking to sell all 3 boards in the set though, cost to you would be my cost plus shipping, so $16CDN for the 3 boards plus shipping which may be around $10 to send it the cheapest way.