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Pinscape expansion board support thread


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#101 roar

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 03:43 PM

Quote ....

https://www.pololu.c...mm-male-headers
https://www.pololu.c...nector-housings

You do need to solder the pin headers to the PCB, of course, but that's relatively easy compared to soldering individual wires. The crimp pin housings are solderless, but they more or less require a special tool:

https://www.pololu.com/product/1928


Would you please assist me to find equivalent parts at mouser electronics. I have a half full shooping cart there and ive been looking through their catalogue for 2 days to find something equivalent.
I have purchased a reasonably good solder station today so im ready to go.

 

If you're looking for the headers, mjr actually has a pre-configured "shopping" list for mouser on his Expansion Board website:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...sion-board.html

 

Scroll down to the "Parts List" section.

 

Link to one of the headers you need:

 

http://www.mouser.co...855-M20-9761046

 

Not sure if that is what you are looking for?

 

Edit: OMG... I was just reviewing the shopping list you put together mjr and I just now for the first time noticed the Customer Part # field... where you directly tell me where each of these parts go! I can't believe I missed that before. Thank you again for all your support for your project you are so incredibly patient :)


Edited by roar, 17 June 2016 - 03:46 PM.


#102 mjr

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:34 PM

Edit: OMG... I was just reviewing the shopping list you put together mjr and I just now for the first time noticed the Customer Part # field... where you directly tell me where each of these parts go! I can't believe I missed that before. 

 

I might have added it since the last time you looked :).  I only added it a few weeks ago.

 

But a slight caveat on that.  It only applies to the *main* board.  After I entered all of that for the main board, I was all ready to add it to the power board and chime board, but as soon as I started I discovered that Mouser's system applies the Customer Part # field "globally" to all carts.  In other words, it's tied to the Mouser part # rather than the line item in the cart.  So if I entered "R18" on the main board, "R18" will also show up in the power board and the chime board if they happen to contain the same Mouser part.  So this wasn't a very good way to do this after all, even though it seemed like a good idea when I started!  I guess I'll have to export the parts lists to separate files to annotate the others the same way.


https://www.pololu.c...mm-male-headers
https://www.pololu.c...nector-housings

 

Would you please assist me to find equivalent parts at mouser electronics. I have a half full shooping cart there and ive been looking through their catalogue for 2 days to find something equivalent.

 

Indeed, the only thing not to like about Mouser is that their catalog is so gigantic that it's next to impossible find something if you don't already know exactly what you need, preferably down to a manufacturer's part number.

 

For the 0.1" pin headers and housings, the Harwin M20 series is my standard resource on Mouser.  For the pin headers, the part numbers generally follow these patterns:

 

855-M20-976xx46    - DIL (dual row) vertical male pin headers, xx = number of pins per row (e.g., 855-M20-9760846 = 8+8 DIL pin header)

855-M20-107xx00    - female pin housings, xx = number of pins per row

 

855-M20-999xx46    - SIL (single row) pin header

855-M20-106xx00    - SIL housings

 

855-M20-1160042    - crimp pins for the housings

 

The Mouser search engine is good at recognizing part numbers, so you can type the part number (with the xx replaced with the actual pin count) into the search box to go directly to a product page.


Edited by mjr, 17 June 2016 - 06:36 PM.


#103 roar

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 07:41 PM

 

Edit: OMG... I was just reviewing the shopping list you put together mjr and I just now for the first time noticed the Customer Part # field... where you directly tell me where each of these parts go! I can't believe I missed that before. 

 

I might have added it since the last time you looked :).  I only added it a few weeks ago.

 

But a slight caveat on that.  It only applies to the *main* board.  After I entered all of that for the main board, I was all ready to add it to the power board and chime board, but as soon as I started I discovered that Mouser's system applies the Customer Part # field "globally" to all carts.  In other words, it's tied to the Mouser part # rather than the line item in the cart.  So if I entered "R18" on the main board, "R18" will also show up in the power board and the chime board if they happen to contain the same Mouser part.  So this wasn't a very good way to do this after all, even though it seemed like a good idea when I started!  I guess I'll have to export the parts lists to separate files to annotate the others the same way.

 

Ah... if it was just a couple of weeks ago I'm good then... I started this project months ago! :)

 

I'm not sure how much room you have in the "Customer Part #" field but you could put a prefix in there like "MB: R11, PB: ##, CB: ##" and just build a longer string. This would have saved you having to answer some of my questions for sure :).



#104 mjr

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 07:52 PM

 

But a slight caveat on that.  It only applies to the *main* board.  After I entered all of that for the main board, I was all ready to add it to the power board and chime board, but as soon as I started I discovered that Mouser's system applies the Customer Part # field "globally" to all carts.  In other words, it's tied to the Mouser part # rather than the line item in the cart.  So if I entered "R18" on the main board, "R18" will also show up in the power board and the chime board if they happen to contain the same Mouser part.  So this wasn't a very good way to do this after all, even though it seemed like a good idea when I started!  I guess I'll have to export the parts lists to separate files to annotate the others the same way.

 

I'm not sure how much room you have in the "Customer Part #" field but you could put a prefix in there like "MB: R11, PB: ##, CB: ##" and just build a longer string.

 

Sadly, it's limited to about 20 characters - it's actually too tight just for some of the items that are repeated many times on the board!

 

They do have a "Notes" field that appears to be unlimited, and I was going to use that, but it unfortunately doesn't display at all in the list, even in the printer view.  You have to click on each line item's "Notes" link individually to see if it even has a note attached, so that's way too inconvenient to be usable for this purpose.

 

Probably what I'll do is just export the list to an Excel spreadsheet (which they support) and edit the spreadsheet to add the component ID references.  That's not optimal because it won't automatically keep in sync - every time I edit the carts, I'll have to remember to separately edit the spreadsheets to keep them up to date.  But I think it's the only way to have full annotations.



#105 roar

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 03:28 AM

Ugh...

 

Can't seem to figure this new TV out. The PCB for the power switch has no points on it that seem like reasonable places to solder to... the Auto On feature when power is supplied doesn't appear to be working as expected and for the life of me I can't figure out how to send the right 'string' via command line to the TV via RS232 to get this sucker turn on... frustrating. Artwork just showed up for my cabinet and I'm getting close to finishing that work, but this feels like the project that is never going to end!



#106 TerryRed

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 11:53 AM

Wait until you get to the software and media part....  :(



#107 roar

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 02:18 PM

Oh my PinballX is all up and running, VPX, VP992 and PinballFX2 all configured with table and back glass videos all there... I can handle the software side... A little frustrated I can't sort this serial part out but I don't speak HEX :).

#108 TerryRed

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 06:15 PM

Yah, it's been a long time since I had to mess with IR codes.

 

I still have a Microsoft Media Center Remote and IR blaster that still works great and I get it out for a project once in a while. Can't remember the software I used, but it would allow the blaster the learn any IR codes nice and easy, and be able to use them in all sorts of ways.

 

For my TV in my cabinet, it will power on by itself every time, as long as it had its power cut off while the TV was still turned on.  If the TV was turned off (automatically by inactive video signal, etc) while I powered off the cabinet, I'd have to use my remote to power it on the next time I turn on the cabinet.

 

 

Good you got your software up and running....   but this project will never end....  as my wife always says.... but that's what a hobby is supposed to be like. The hard part is when you got it to an almost "complete" point and you can actually enjoy playing it, but you eventually got to take some of it apart for new upgrades.



#109 r00n

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 09:43 AM

Hi

I have my pcb and I have the pinscape bin file installed on it - all very easy thanks to clear instructions. I have soldered all the pins onto the board with my new solder station and it looks pretty good. 

 

My question this time relates to wiring in buttons that have leds in them. Does the KL25z have a circuit to wire the Leds inside the buttons? I should be ok to work out the circuit ... I just don't know which pins to connect to ....or indeed if it is possible. 



#110 mjr

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Posted 28 June 2016 - 05:23 PM



I have my pcb and I have the pinscape bin file installed on it - all very easy thanks to clear instructions. I have soldered all the pins onto the board with my new solder station and it looks pretty good. 

 

My question this time relates to wiring in buttons that have leds in them. Does the KL25z have a circuit to wire the Leds inside the buttons? I should be ok to work out the circuit ... I just don't know which pins to connect to ....or indeed if it is possible. 

 

It's possible!  But you need some added circuitry for it, along with some extra software setup on the PC.

 

Button lights count as "feedback devices" that the pinball software (VP, etc) controls through an output controller device.  The Pinscape software can work as an output controller, and can control devices through some of the pins.

 

The snag is that the KL25Z has *very* wimpy GPIO pin power.  It has a limit of 4ma per pin, which isn't even enough to drive most small LEDs (those typically need 20mA).  So to control anything with one of these pins, you have to add some kind of power booster.  If you go to the Build Guide, there's a circuit diagram in there for a good general-purpose high-power output booster circuit using a MOSFET - that circuit will handle about 10A (depending on the type of MOSFET you use), so it'll drive just about anything you want to put in a pin cab, including motors and big solenoids like a replay knocker.  

 

You could build that MOSFET circuit for each button light, but those are such small loads that you could get away with a much simpler circuit.  All you need is a small NPN transistor and a resistor, like this:

 

simplekl25zpowerbooster.png

 

Build that for each lamp output.  Connect the "+" side of the lamp to 12V or 5V as required for the lamp bulb.  R2 is the current-limiting resistor for the lamp - you probably don't need this if you're using one of those little #555 LED replacements, since it'll have the resistor built-in.  You'll only need the resistor if you're using a plain LED.  If you're not sure, post a picture of the bulb or a link to where you got it and someone here will probably be able to tell you.

 

The circuit above will work for up to a 500mA load, which is enough for any LED or even an incandescent #555 button lamp.  Over 500mA requires something beefier, like the MOSFET circuit in the Build Guide.

 

The other thing you'll have to do to get the bulbs working is get DirectOutput Framework (DOF) set up on your PC.  That's fairly straightforward - no soldering required for that. :)  If you're not sure where to look for that, let me know and I'll send some pointers to get you started.

 

For more information about all of this, check the Build Guide section on attaching output devices, towards the end of the guide.


Edited by mjr, 28 June 2016 - 05:27 PM.


#111 filth

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 10:53 AM

Could anyone post a picture of a finished Interface board - i need to check orientation of the PSU and Q1 connectors.

There are no sockets on the mouser list for the ICs and the Optocouplers - is it wise to solder them directly to the board? I would prefers getting sockets for them, i think.

 

Thanks!


Edited by filth, 01 July 2016 - 05:26 PM.


#112 roar

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 06:34 PM

Could anyone post a picture of a finished Interface board - i need to check orientation of the PSU and Q1 connectors.

There are no sockets on the mouser list for the ICs and the Optocouplers - is it wise to solder them directly to the board? I would prefers getting sockets for them, i think.

 

Thanks!

 

I'd post mine but I'm not sure I oriented the PSU connectors the 'right' way :)

 

As ar as sockets for the IC's, probably would have been a good idea for me as I soldered one to the board in the wrong orientation and that would have saved me from having to desolder it.



#113 roar

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 06:56 PM

mjr... question for you...

 

This surely will continue to expose my overall lack of understanding but here we go anyway... :)

 

I've got 5 RGB Flashers...

 

If I read the specs on them it says the Blue and Green have one Forward Voltage (3.2-3.5Vdc) while the Red has another 2.0-2.5Vdc. They both have the same Forward Current. You had pointed me to wards the resistor calculator in the past and I bought the corresponding ones the calculator told me too but things are massive... what I'd like to confirm are whether I need to run a separate +5V line with a separate resistor inline to each RGB contact or I just need to connect one for each resistor value and I can daisy chain them? So on the first RGB can run the +5 through the 2.2ohm 2W resistor into the Blue + contact point and then run a short little jumper over to the Green +? Or do the Green and Blue each need their own resistor? Could I further chain that +5 over to the other RGB's too if I can chain them?



#114 mjr

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 09:31 PM

Could anyone post a picture of a finished Interface board - i need to check orientation of the PSU and Q1 connectors.

 

This is the beta version, but those parts should be the same:

 

mainboardassembledmid.png

 

For the MOSFET and the voltage regulator (they're both in the same TO-220 package), the little outline on the board is pretty helpful.  Like everything else, it's basically an outline of the top-down view of the component package when installed.  For the TO-220's, the thick line on the outline represents the metal fin.  So just line it up with the metal fin on the same side as the thick line drawn on the board.

 

 

There are no sockets on the mouser list for the ICs and the Optocouplers - is it wise to solder them directly to the board? I would prefers getting sockets for them, i think.

 

I don't use sockets myself.  It won't do the chips any harm to solder them, but sockets do make it easier to get the chips out if you installed them backwards or if you ever needed to replace one.  You'd want to check that there's room, though; the board is packed pretty tight and the sockets usually take up a little extra room.

 

Also, it occurs to me that it might get too tight vertically for the chips installed under where the KL25Z goes.

 

 

what I'd like to confirm are whether I need to run a separate +5V line with a separate resistor inline to each RGB contact or I just need to connect one for each resistor value and I can daisy chain them? 

 

Sorry to say that daisy-chaining of the resistors won't work.  You need a separate resistor for every LED element individually.  So for the 5 flashers, you need 15 resistors.

 

You can put the resistor on either side of the LED, so there are two basic ways to wire this:

 

1.  Daisy chain the +5V line to one end of each resistor.  The other end of a given resistor goes to the "+" terminal of its LED.  The "-" terminal of the LED goes to the output port on the expansion board.

 

2.  Daisy chain the +5V directly to the "+" terminal of each LED.  The "-" terminal of the LED goes to one end of the LED's individual resistor, and the other end of that resistor goes to the output port.

 

Hope that makes sense!  I can sketch out a schematic if that would be more helpful.

 

In case you're interested, I'll try to explain why you can't daisy-chain the resistors.  In an LED circuit like this, we use the resistor to "set" the amount of current (amperage) that's running through the circuit.  An LED is almost like a piece of wire in that it'll allow almost unlimited amounts of current to flow through it.  (It's a wild oversimplification to say it's "like a piece of wire", of course, but it's pretty accurate as far as this feature of allowing unlimited current.)  That's why we need these resistors - they serve to limit the amount of current that can flow so that we don't overload the LED or melt wires.  For resistors, there's a simple linear relationship between voltage, current, and resistance known as Ohm's law.  The linear relationship means that if you know any two of the quantities, you can calculate the third.  In an LED circuit, we know the voltage and the target current, so we can calculate the resistance.  That's what you did when you plugged the various values into the LED calculator to figure the size of resistor you needed.  And this is where the daisy-chaining problem comes in.  When you calculated the resistor size you needed, you used the current flowing through ONE LED.  If you hooked up two LEDs in parallel to a single resistor, you'd have two separate LED paths for the current to flow through, and each path would need that same amount of current.  The paths converge at the resistor, so TWICE the current would have to be flowing through the resistor.  But the voltage hasn't changed, so going back to Ohm's law and that linear relationship between voltage, current, and resistance, we'd have to HALVE the resistance to accommodate that double current.  If you hook up three resistors, you'd need 3x the current and thus 1/3 the resistance.  And so on.  But wait!  It gets worse!  For our situation, it's not just a matter of dividing by N if you want to hook up N LEDs in parallel.  With the flashers, each one turns on and off individually.  So when one flasher is on and the other four are off, we need the original resistance.  When two flashers turn on at the same time, we need 1/2 the resistance.  When 3 turn on at the same time...  Anyway, this is completely unworkable because we can't have the resistance change on the fly according to how many flashers are operating at any given time.  So the only way around this is to dedicate a resistor separately to each current path.


Edited by mjr, 01 July 2016 - 09:59 PM.


#115 roar

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Posted 01 July 2016 - 09:45 PM

as always mjr, thank you very much for the detailed explanation... sounds like I've got some organizing to do :) This explains why zeb made a resistor board eh :)



#116 NobodyYouKnow

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Posted 06 July 2016 - 12:25 PM

here is a current link for the motor I used for my shaker .... I believe it is the same motor that stern currently uses ... I know it is what they have used in the past.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...sd=141416152500

 

The Johnson HC 970 Dual Shaft Hobby Motor is in stock on eBay again for $23 shipped. I expect these will go quickly.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...-/282091198681?



#117 roar

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 04:02 AM

Any recommendations on where to mount the pinscape and the expansion boards in the cabinet? I'm about that point now. I was thinking about mounting it on the side wall, not sure why... real estate on the  seems rather scarce after the computer and subwoofer... I'm also considering putting an actual coin box in there so that would make things tight.



#118 mjr

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 04:42 AM

Any recommendations on where to mount the pinscape and the expansion boards in the cabinet? I'm about that point now. I was thinking about mounting it on the side wall, not sure why... real estate on the  seems rather scarce after the computer and subwoofer... I'm also considering putting an actual coin box in there so that would make things tight.

 

It definitely gets tight in there!

 

The main constraint for the boards is that the KL25Z needs to be flat on the bottom of the cab, to orient the accelerometer properly.  That means the main board has to be installed flat on the bottom of the cab somewhere.

 

If you're putting in a standard coin box, there'll probably still be enough room just behind the coin box.  You can put the power board and/or chime board on the side wall.  Or you can stack the boards on top of each other, using 1" tall standoffs to separate the boards. That's the approach I prefer since it keeps the ribbon cables for the data signals between boards very short.

 

I use a homemade small coin box myself to save space.  The standard ones are pretty gigantic.  I've looked a bit for a smaller version of the real ones, but as far as I've seen there's only the one size.



#119 filth

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 07:12 AM

I have a question regarding connecting Buttons with leds to the controller. My current setup is - KL25Z on the Interface board.

I have the Power board lying here - would you suggest to solder it and connect the LED-Buttons to the power board?

 

So in the end i would have the buttons connected to the interface board and the LEDs of these to the power board?

 

Just placing the order for the power board parts at mouser. Could you suggest, which wires i should order for my Buttons, LEDs etc? Need to pack 10 € to archive free shipping :)


Edited by filth, 07 July 2016 - 07:32 AM.


#120 mjr

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 09:32 PM

I have a question regarding connecting Buttons with leds to the controller. My current setup is - KL25Z on the Interface board.

I have the Power board lying here - would you suggest to solder it and connect the LED-Buttons to the power board?

So in the end i would have the buttons connected to the interface board and the LEDs of these to the power board?

 

Yep, that will definitely work.

 

Before you go that route, though, two questions:  (1) How much current do these LEDs draw?  (2)  Are you going to be using the RGB flipper button LED outputs?  If the LEDs are under about 60mA, and you're not using the RGB flipper outputs, you could use those.  They'll drive small LEDs up to about 60mA.  If you are using the flipper outputs, you might still be able to do this, since there are 16 outputs and usually only 12 needed for the flippers (RGB = 3 channels per button x 4 buttons (2 flippers, 2 magna save)).  But that's trickier because all of the outputs use the same current limit, so it doesn't work as well if you're using 20mA LEDs for the flippers and 55mA LEDs for the buttons.

 

Just placing the order for the power board parts at mouser. Could you suggest, which wires i should order for my Buttons, LEDs etc?

 

I use 22 AWG stranded wire for just about everything, with the exception of speaker wires and some of the power wiring where I use 16 AWG. 

 

24 AWG is cheaper by the foot and would work fine for low-voltage/low-current wiring like buttons, LEDs, etc.  So if you want to save a little money, you can get a mix of 22 and 24, and reserve the 22 for the higher current items.

 

If you're just starting your cab and have most of the wiring left to do, I'd recommend buying about 4x as much wire as you expect you'll need.  I'd get maybe 6 colors in 100ft reels.  It sounds like a lot, but it's cheaper to buy in the bigger reels.