1103 replies to this topic

[roar]

Thanks fhjui until I had this issue the boards were working well so Im hoping the chips are legit. I will take a swab to the new ones though to be sure. (Edit: I tried to rub off the lettering with some alcohol and it isnt moving it looks like a real legit marking to these untrained eyes)

After looking over my chime board it looks pretty toasty, trying to put another MOSFET in doesnt seem like the right approach. I have not plugged it back in since my little smoke show, would it be safe to do so? I was going to run 5 solenoids and 3 chimes on it but new plan is to move the 5 solenoids over to the power board and just run the 3 chimes on the chime board.

How about putting fuses in front of the chimes? How would I do that? One fuse for each chime, wire coming out of chime board port 1 into a fuse and then on to the solenoid and then again for port 2 and 3? The chime unit Im using has all 3 power wires plugged into one socket so I just did the same, diodes are in place.

Edited by roar, 26 December 2024 - 09:54 PM.

[fhjui]

If the IC marking isn't lasered but printed ink, it's not alcohol-soluble. As I have written, it can only checked by using acetone.

The chime board uses a shift register (74hc595) instead of the LED-driver TLC-ICs

 

Depending of the damage of the chime board (f.e. add. damaged IC), I see two possibilities:

• use of the remaining 7 channels
• Using the Gerber files from MJR http://mjrnet.org/pi...sion-board.html, you can order new chime boards, e.g. from jlcpcb.com or pcbways. In my case, jlcpcb is much cheaper in terms of transport costs. In general, the pinscape boards are very cheap, as their dimensions are only 100x100mm.

soleonids (starter relays from us-cars) in opposite of contactors, should be driven by outputs of a chimeboard, because it has a hardware timer for each output which limits the switched-on time regardless of what the software does.

contactors are also suitable for continuous operation, in contrast to starter relays (soleonids), which then burn out (risk of fire!)

 

Every power output should be fused.

• from power supply to the fuse, then from the fuse to the power device, from the power device to the pinscape output. The MOSEFT of the output then switches the divice on by connecting the port to ground (GND)

[roar]

No acetone here, will see how they work when I plug in the power board .

I understand the purpose of the chime board, but that hardware timer didn't save my locked on solenoid, I imagine that is because I created a catastrophic failure by bridging my mofsets, but here we are . I think I'm alright with running my cheaper solenoids off the power board too, not the perfect solution, but it will work. The Chime Solenoids are more expensive so I'll continue to run those on the Chime board, but the 12V ones I'm using for the flippers and pop bumpers are less precious to me so those will go on the power board.

 

With regard to fuses, any thoughts on what value fuse would I use the 25V solenoids that are being used for chimes? Slo-Blow? How many amps?

[mjr]

After looking over my chime board it looks pretty toasty, trying to put another MOSFET in doesnt seem like the right approach. I have not plugged it back in since my little smoke show, would it be safe to do so? I was going to run 5 solenoids and 3 chimes on it but new plan is to move the 5 solenoids over to the power board and just run the 3 chimes on the chime board.

 

Yeah, it might not be worth trying to replace that MOSFET given the damage to the traces.  It's probably possible to rehabilitate it with some careful work, but if you have a spare channel on the power board that you can use instead, that'd be much less hassle.  You can get some of the Chime-board like timer protection by enabling the Flipper Logic/Chime Logic feature on the individual outputs in the Config Tool - that'll at least cut off power at the KL25Z software level.  Not quite as bulletproof as the hardware timers, but the firmware is at least immune to crashes on the Windows side.

 

It doesn't look like the damage went beyond that one MOSFET, so I think you'll be okay continuing to use this board.  I'd do some continuity testing on all of the traces going into the dead MOSFET slot to make sure that none of them are shorted to each other at the damage site.  It LOOKS like they're all safely melted away into open circuits, in which case they shouldn't affect the rest of the board.  My only concern would be that there's a hidden somewhere in the Ground Zero region, which you can rule out by testing to make sure there's no continuity between any of those points.  

I agree that fuses are worth including on the high-power circuits like this.  Something around 4A slow-blow is probably good for the chime coils.  You've got the right idea on the wiring plan, just put the fuse in series between the Pinscape output port and the device.