99 replies to this topic

[electricmagma]

You might want to clarify with Steve. I am not familiar with his new board, but generally it's best to put the diodes on as close to the source (directly between a1 and a2). His boards are really awesome, so it wouldn't surprise me if he made this work too!

[zebulon]

You're fine, the diodes are preinstalled on those boards...

[djhamp]

Thanks so much for documenting your build, seeing the progression in pictures is awesome and will make my build much easier.

I am in the planning stage of doing a similar build - in the beginning you mention modifying the common widebody plans to match your real machines, could you tell me the outside dimensions of the sides?

[sc204]

Just a few final steps before I can say it is done (less downloading a bunch of tables)

The 5 light RGB light bar was added to the top of the back box.  Another Molex connector (20 pins used) makes it easier to disconnect if I have to pull the play field monitor.

Final step was to connect the rear fans to the computer.  A power distribution block out of an old computer and a few extensions made with R/C type servo connectors finished the job.

Attached Files

•  Fan connectors.jpg   109.54KB   12 downloads
•  light bar connector.jpg   80.72KB   9 downloads
•  light bar.jpg   80.24KB   12 downloads

Edited by sc204, 14 March 2015 - 10:28 PM.

[sc204]

Some pictures of it finished and turned on.  I have a couple of cosmetic things I would like to still do though including a graphic panel for the back of the playfield, and a logo of some sort under the DMD display.

Attached Files

•  Finished 1.jpg   149.09KB   17 downloads
•  Finished 2.jpg   176.64KB   13 downloads
•  Finished 3.jpg   145.18KB   13 downloads
•  Finished 4.jpg   158.91KB   13 downloads

Edited by sc204, 14 March 2015 - 11:08 PM.

[viktory2k1]

WOW! That is amazing! I am in the planning process of building one. I love reading the build progression threads. I do not post very often and I had to for this. I do have a question or 2.

This is a Williams widebody cab right? Where did you route the channel for the playfield and how deep? I may have missed that if you posted it.

I don't know, still looks like there is some room next to it.....Do you have an idea as to what kind of amperage it draws?

Thanks,

Vic

[blashyrk]

That's a great looking cabinet, good job I'm also in the planning stages of my widebody build and can't wait to start building.

[sc204]

This is what I wrote in post # 2

The most difficult decision was where to place the slot for the TV.   Lots of opinions on this and other sites.  I sort of went with a consensus and what I thought would look good and placed the top of the slot about 1" down in the front and 4" in the back.  4 1/2" if you add the back top cabinet cross piece.  In hind sight the front could have been a little higher to get the flipper buttons and plunger a little higher.  Not sure I would go as high as 1/4" as has been mentioned but that will have to wait till I am finished to see how the game looks under the glass.  I used a router with a 5/8" bit with a straight edge as a guide.  The cuts were about 3/8" deep and fit the decased Samsung.  (Spell check wants to make that deceased Samsung)

 

The slot is as wide and as deep as you need to fit your particular monitor.  Did I place it in the right spot?  Don't know.  Since I was using standard back box hinges the slot fell just below that by luck as I did not think about that when cutting the slot.  I have been playing with different settings (inclination FOV, and layback and have been wondering if a higher position in the rear might not have been better.  Until I actually did that I couldn't be sure.

 

And remember room and permission are two different things

Not sure about the power but no more than a couple of TV's and a computer or two

Edited by sc204, 19 March 2015 - 07:39 PM.

[zebulon]

Very clean looking build.  Nice job.

[viktory2k1]

Just wondering, Did you buy the complete hardware kit from Virtuapin or just the individual parts? Just starting my build and I already have to make the cab wider and don't really need the backbox to tilt but to come off would be nice. Just looking for some direction. Going to use an air stapler with 18g 1 1/2" staples to hold cab together, do you think thats enough?

[PinballGizzard]

Going to use an air stapler with 18g 1 1/2" staples to hold cab together, do you think thats enough?

 

I would not use staples.  They are cut at the tips and designed to spread a little when shot into the wood.  If you're dealing with 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood and your angle is a little off, you might end up with part of a staple poking out of your plywood.  My cab is mostly 3/4 plywood.  for the main playfield cabinet, glue and clamp it and drill small pilot holes.  then fasten it with trim head screws.  Square drive 6x1-5/8 and make sure they sink into the wood a bit so you can cover them with wood filler and sand it smooth.  18 gauge brad nailer and smaller wood screws should suffice for the back box.

[viktory2k1]

OK thank you, I drove everywhere to find the 1 1/2" staples. I'll see what size brads I have but think their 1 1/4". Did you just cut those tri-angle braces out of 2x2's? I thought for sure menards would have some prefabbed ones but nope. I do have a kreg pocket hole set. What are your thoughts on that? Otherwise, I will do what you recommend. I got some progress today and going to post pics and what I had to do to the plans to make my cheapo tv work. I already see thats not the way to go but amazingly, it has very good viewing angles. Now I gotta get a custom lockdown bar. I think thats an extra $80 on the kit at virtuapin. Who knows, maybe I just wasted my time. You experienced builders will know by what I post. Gotta start an acct on photobucket though first for these pics.

I still think there's a little room next to yours! Gotta cover that unsightly outlet. LOL  That is truly a beautiful room.

 

P.S. I will try the stapler/nailer on scrap to see what happens but I totally agree on the screws. Yes, I am using 3/4" maple plywood.

Edited by viktory2k1, 25 March 2015 - 10:51 AM.

[sc204]

I did not buy the kit, I purchased parts from various pinball sources to get what I wanted and the best prices.  I did get a bunch of stuff including the plunger from Virtua pin though.  In regards to the stapler?  I have only used them for wood floors but they may work well for you, give it a test.  Remember any holes for nails staples screws etc. will need to be filled before applying decals.  I used a 23 gauge pin nailer and clamps to hold things in place waiting for the glue to dry.  Gorilla glue is pretty strong stuff.  In regards to the corner brace triangles they were cut form the 3/4" ply using my track saw or table saw.  Regarding the Kreg jig I can definitely see being able to use that to screw in the corner braces for a very strong structure. 

 

Why did you have to make the cabinet wider than stock?  And  by how much?  Besides the lockdown bar you also may need to get a custom cut top glass.

 

Stuart

 

 

Taking the posting opportunity to add pictures of the volume buttons and USB connectors added to my coin door.  (They were posted in a separate thread)

 

Attached Files

•  volume 1.jpg   190.51KB   6 downloads
•  volume 2.jpg   141.84KB   6 downloads

Edited by sc204, 25 March 2015 - 01:54 PM.

[blashyrk]

Did you just drill holes for the buttons and usb ?

[sc204]

Yes I used one of those stepped drill bits.

[PinballGizzard]

Hey there SC204.  Beautiful build.  I wish I had your router skills.  Question ... what did you use for your PC chassis?  Did you chop up a tower before installing the motherboard and other components, or is there a source for decent support for caseless computers?  

[PinballGizzard]

Nevermind SC204 ... I got the info I needed.  Can't figure out where the delete button is, so just disregard.  Thanks

[clydedrexler]

Power wiring is pretty much done.  The Bose speaker, power, playfield TV and USB hub will plug into the strip in the cabinet  as well as a second strip that will be mounted on the computer tray.  Both power supplies and both back box monitors will plug into that one.  The 2 yellow wires from the front of the junction box connect to the momentary switch and will be attached to the on button of the computer. To start you will just flip the power switch followed by the computer start button.  Once the computer is shut down from the Pinball X front end then just shut off the power switch.  I was going to use a power strip that has a master control of the other outlets but the computer power supply must consume enough electricity at rest because the other items would not routinely shut off when the computer was shut down.

 

 

 

 

When you power up your Pinball with your switch...your TVs (playfield, back abd DMD) turn on automatically?

I think my TVs are on IDLE or stand by mode..... anyone knows how to fix this?

 

Thanks a lot!

Regards,

ClydeDrexler

[sc204]

Yes all three monitors come on when I power up. I think they are set to start in their last power on or off setting.  I don't think I had to do anything special to get them to work that way.

[clydedrexler]

Thanks... I test my TVs and they start in the last state... so I'm OK!

I'm waiting form my cabinet kit to start the woodworking