975 replies to this topic

[LynnInDenver]

So, given the end of life of Windows 7, and that I was due for a boost anyway, I built a new Windows 10 computer for my daily driver... which meant I could trade out the refurbished machine we bought for Radiant Silverball for my old desktop machine. Similar processor (i5, same class, I forget exactly which one), but a much beefier video card and better all around.

 

I've encountered one problem, and hopefully there's a good fix for this... the Pinscape board doesn't get completely cut off from power when the machine is powered down. I get the LED flashing yellow every couple of seconds. Eventually, the Pinscape will lock up and have to be unplugged. I've tried all the machine's ports, and it's the same result, even plugging it in when powered off.

[mjr]

I've encountered one problem, and hopefully there's a good fix for this... the Pinscape board doesn't get completely cut off from power when the machine is powered down. I get the LED flashing yellow every couple of seconds. Eventually, the Pinscape will lock up and have to be unplugged. I've tried all the machine's ports, and it's the same result, even plugging it in when powered off.

 

That actually shouldn't be a problem.  It's expected that the USB port will be permanently powered.  The KL25Z should just reboot itself when it detects that Windows isn't running (which it sees as a dropped USB protocol connection), and then automatically reconnect the next time the PC boots. 

 

Two things you should look at:

 

* What the status lights mean:  http://mjrnet.org/pi...id=statusLights

 

* In the Config Tool, you might try changing the settings for "Reset on disconnect".

 

That should all just work automatically, but if all else fails, you could try going into the Windows Device Manager setup and changing the USB port to not provide power to the port when the PC is off.  That would cause a hard power cycle on the KL25Z on each PC power cycle, so it should be like booting fresh each time.  But that really shouldn't be necessary - it's designed to run with power on all the time, and that's the way I always use it myself.

Edited by mjr, 30 January 2020 - 04:55 AM.

[LynnInDenver]

Yeah, it's definitely the "trying to reconnect" flash. But it did crash while in that state, I went downstairs to do something and noticed the Extra Ball button was lit and it was no longer flashing, and it persisted into the boot cycle and I had to manually cycle it from there. I'll check the config tonight, and possibly fiddle in the device manager. The previous computer did seem to power the USB completely down.

[LynnInDenver]

OK, found the BIOS setting for the ASUS motherboard in that computer so that it doesn't keep the Pinscape alive while off. Things seem to be working fine.

 

I also switched from Nailbuster's "cheap mouse plunger" to the Pinscape for the plunger, using a 10K pot and a 3D printed housing. This works MUCH better out of the box, and reduces the software count by 1. I'm all about running the minimal amount of software to get the pincab done.

[STV]

I wired the power in the vpin cab through a switch that cuts the power to the cab completely.  I use the PinballY "power off" functionality to shut down windows gracefully and then I flip that switch.  No lingering USB power...

 

Flip the switch on and everything launches ready to play. 

[Thorvald]

Is there any issue running the Pinscape board with the VirtuaPin Plunger v3?  They run the same dev board so wasn’t sure if the USB drivers conflicted.  

 

If there is a conflict, I’ll have to see about adding the VCLN 4010 prox sensor to the Pinscape code base to solve that issue if it hasn’t already been done.

[ludovids]

@Thorvald:

 

You can use the VirtuaPin Plunger v3 hardware with Pinscape, but will need to use a different sensor for plunger position. I am using a pot instead.

 

The KL25Z that comes with VirtuaPin has pin headers installed for only one row of pin connections on each of the headers. So unless you replace the pin headers, you are limited to using only about half the input capacity of the KL25Z. If you just want button and plunger input, that is enough. If that is the case, then the KL25Z that came with VirtuaPin kit is the only board you need.

 

Also, note this issue that I mentioned in another post:

Another thing you might want to try, is not using the J1-2 pin on the KL25Z as ground, if you currently are. The doc that came with my virtuapin kit shows that pin to be ground, but according to the KL25Z doc, it is not. I was using that pin as ground for some of the buttons on my cab, and the buttons worked. But maybe using that pin as ground contributed to the problems I had with the plunger. I am now using the J9-14 pin, instead of the J1-2 pin, to ground those buttons.

 

- ludovids

[mjr]

Is there any issue running the Pinscape board with the VirtuaPin Plunger v3?  They run the same dev board so wasn’t sure if the USB drivers conflicted.  

 

I think you're talking about running both KL25Z boards in the same system, right?  If so, that's fine.  The KL25Z board will not conflict at the USB level.  You can plug in as many of these boards as you want.  So this setup will work:

 

USB port #1 on PC =========== KL25Z #1 running VirtuaPin firmware ----- VirtuaPIn plunger sensor

 

USB port #2 on PC =========== KL25Z #2 running Pinscape firmware 

 

(If you want the technical details, the KL25Z doesn't actually have a "driver" per se on the PC side.  The KL25Z just has a completely generic USB interface that's up to the firmware you load to program.  The Pinscape and VirtuaPin firmware both program the interface to act as USB HID clients, so on the Windows side they run through the standard Windows USB HID drivers - that's why you never have to install any special drivers for these devices.  The USB HID drivers allow any number of HID devices to be connected.)

[LynnInDenver]

So, I redid much of my Pinscape wiring (still need to replace some of the actual wiring because of length), and I've got an interesting issue. Using the MJR nudgeplugin.vbs, default settings for VPX on nudge except for disabling the virtual nudge sensitivity, real tilt bob, 10K plunger pot, early solid state tables (I've only tested Airborne Avenger and Solar Ride), I get an instant tilt when I release the analog plunger on ball launch. Plunging with the Launch Ball button doesn't cause a tilt. And I also get a tilt just lightly banging the cabinet, not enough to even move the tilt bob.

 

Tilt bob is on PTD6, plunger wiper is on PTB3, with plunger voltage on 3.3 and plunger ground into my Pinscape ground bar. Rewiring involved switching to male headers on the KL25Z, ribbon cables with dupont connectors on both ends, feeding into male pin headers attached to screw terminals so I can more easily move things around when I need to.

[LynnInDenver]

OK, that's weird, it's working fine tonight. I'm guessing we have a Gremlin in the house that's not been made by AMC.

[mjr]

LynnInDenver - sounds like there might have been a loose wire or intermittent short somewhere.  If it comes back, I'd probably start by carefully checking the wiring to the tilt bob input, since that seems like the obvious source of a spurious instant tilt.

[LynnInDenver]

Yeah, if it happens again, I'll double check everything... although where the tilt bob connects is 7-8 screw terminals away from the plunger wiper connection.

[mjr]

Yeah, if it happens again, I'll double check everything... although where the tilt bob connects is 7-8 screw terminals away from the plunger wiper connection.

 

Well, it doesn't necessarily have to be related to the plunger connection electrically.  It could have just been the mechanical action of moving the plunger that was triggering it, for example.  That can happen with a stray wire filament where it's not supposed to be, making an intermittent short that's not visually apparent.

[PEandS1Ws]

I was referred here for help. In VPX tables that use UltraDMD and in Stranger Things and Harry Potter when I use my cabinet buttons to start the game it always makes the game 2 players. When finished and entering initials for highscores it jumps ahead two letters. No problems in non ultradmd tables. I have to use my keyboard if I want to start a game or enter highscores. 

I am using a kl25z with Xpadder

[mjr]

I was referred here for help. In VPX tables that use UltraDMD and in Stranger Things and Harry Potter when I use my cabinet buttons to start the game it always makes the game 2 players. When finished and entering initials for highscores it jumps ahead two letters. No problems in non ultradmd tables. I have to use my keyboard if I want to start a game or enter highscores. 

I am using a kl25z with Xpadder

 

I'm assuming you're running the Pinscape software on the kl25z?

 

I don't have any idea what the problem is, but it sounds like you've pretty well isolated it to some kind of software interaction with UltraDMD, given that the problem only occurs when that's running, right?

 

If you're using the Pinscape software, you can always get rid of the joystick button mappings by changing them to keyboard button mappings, which should let you get rid of Xpadder.  At least, you can do that as long as you don't have some game that can ONLY accept game-pad input.  The reason I suggest this is that it lets you at least get rid of one piece of software (Xpadder).  I don't know if that will help at all, but since it seems pretty clear you have *some* sort of software conflict, my instinct would be to get rid of as much software as possible until the conflict goes away.

And given that you've already isolated it to UltraDMD, there's always "get rid of UltraDMD" as the solution of last resort, if nothing else fixes it.  "Doctor, it hurts when I move my arm like this. / Well, then stop moving your arm like that!"

[PEandS1Ws]

Thank you I will try what you recommend. 

[lumberg]

Hi Mjr I’ve got a question about the kl25z can I hook it up to use dof for the cabinet buttons start extra ball etc would I have to use the amplifier circuit like in the guide to trigger the leds if it’s possible

[DDH69]

Hi Mjr I’ve got a question about the kl25z can I hook it up to use dof for the cabinet buttons start extra ball etc would I have to use the amplifier circuit like in the guide to trigger the leds if it’s possible

 

To drive button LEDs you will need some sort of booster (amplifier) circuit from a KL25Z output.

[mjr]

 

Hi Mjr I’ve got a question about the kl25z can I hook it up to use dof for the cabinet buttons start extra ball etc would I have to use the amplifier circuit like in the guide to trigger the leds if it’s possible

 

To drive button LEDs you will need some sort of booster (amplifier) circuit from a KL25Z output.

 

Right, exactly.  You can use one of the simpler booster circuits for button lamps, since they're fairly low power.  And yes, DOF will happily control the button lights - it's set up with effects programming for all of the common buttons.  If you look at the DOF Config Tool Device Descriptions section (mjrnet.org/pinscape/BuildGuideV2/BuildGuide.php?sid=dofDeviceList), it has a list of the standard device types DOF knows about.  (And you can always add your own custom devices as well, although the pre-defined devices really cover practically everything anyone has thought of so far.)

[balilolo]

hi,

i have an issue with a button :

 

my button 5 send the joystick key 5 (which is ok) but at the same time  the T key (which is Mechanical tilt in vpx)

how to get rid of the T key?

all my other buttons don't send a keyboard key at the same time when  joystick button is selected

 

any idea?

thanks

Edited by balilolo, 01 March 2020 - 06:55 AM.