99 replies to this topic

[Carny_Priest]

Provides support through the sides only when of center as in the pic.  When centered it just lifts through the bottom board.   Of course the right sized piece of 3/4" ply as a top for the lift can fix that.

 

Thanks again for the tip. Picked one up during a President's Day sale. 

[sc204]

So things have been progressing slowly

 

I sealed all of the wood parts with Minwax polyurethane (satin) Most got 2 coats and that proved a good thing as almost all of the wood grain was filled.  I had only done a single coat on the inside of the rear doors and quite a bit of the wood grain showed through when primed.  Some of the end grain on the plywood still needed more filling which became obvious after priming.  I use 3M green spot putty for most of the little stuff.  2 part Evercoat Metal Glaze for deeper stuff.  I am keeping the bottom of the cabinet in clear both on the inside and under the cabinet so those areas were taped off and covered with brown paper before  spraying the primer.  They will stay covered until the color is done. 

I did my last Pinball cabinet (STTNG restoration) using spray cans and swore I would never do a large area like a pinball cabinet with them again.  Came out fine but a spray gun is the way to go.  I have a Turbine type HVLP setup that I use to spray the decorative moldings in my house and to paint my model airplanes.  Also used it to clear coat the STTNG playfield which worked out well.  I used it to spray the Minwax polyurethane and lacquer primer on this cabinet.  Much easier than using rattle cans.  Quicker and a much better finish. 

For color I am going to use Rustoleum Satin Black which is available in quart cans so it will also be sprayed using the HVLP gun. 

 

I am waiting for a sample of my printed artwork so I can see the actual background color.  I might go with a very dark blue on the cabinet instead of a straight black to better match the edges of the artwork.

 

 

Attached Files

•  Primed.jpg   71.97KB   7 downloads
•  ready for primer.jpg   88.34KB   7 downloads

[sc204]

Learning a bit about the printing business and what a PIA it must be for them on a daily basis

Lucian045 has been very helpful and sent me a couple of samples of the artwork printed on the material he uses.  Some of the things I really did not know before such as monitors display in RGB, a subtractive process and printers use CYMK, an additive process.  That is why printers generally do not print white.  You can't mix printing colors to get white.  The conversion process from RGB to CYMK is not perfect.  Even switching the color palette in Photoshop shows a shift in color and contrast.  The main reason I asked for a sample was to look at the faded border on my graphics.  I found that when printing test images on my color laser printer that the faded edges were much darker than they appeared on the screen and covered more real estate.  Too much so on the back box graphics.  My initial concern was if the actual graphics would be closer to my prints or monitor appearance.  Learning about the color shifts was a side benefit.  Lucian045 sent me two "proofs" the second one (actually the left piece on the picture) had a few adjustments that I made to try to make the CYMK graphic closer to what I saw on my monitor on the RGB image.  The graphic uses a Photoshop filter "Cyanotype" to change the colored images to the blue/gray shades.  I went a little bluer and then increased the contrast which resulted in the sample on the left.  My final images will be just a little less blue. 

 

The decals are really pretty nice looking.  They are laminated with clear and have a pretty high gloss finish.  Very similar in appearance to the graphics on my WOZ.  The material is supposed to have rapid air release technology so hopefully it applies easily with no air bubbles.

 

 

Attached Files

•  sample pieces.jpg   193.22KB   10 downloads

[sc204]

Painting is progressing but slow as I figured.  I ended up having to prime a second time after some filling with spot putty and sanding was done after the first coats of primer.  I also found a few small cracks in the side of the cabinet that turned out to be defects in the ply.  Some small rotted areas under the maple layer.  These needed to be cut out and filled with a 2 part Bondo like material and then re-primed. 

For final paint I am using Rustoleum enamel.  My plan was to use 7777 Satin Black which is supposed to be a good match to Williams/Bally black.  Since my Graphics have a dark blue border and not black I wanted to paint the cabinet in a similar color.  I used the Satin black and Royal blue to make a mix.  I ended up with 4 parts Blue to 3 parts black.  (2 parts acetone to thin for spraying)  The color still looks basically black but not quite.

It did end up with a little more gloss than I wanted.

 

So far I have painted the Misc. parts, back doors etc.  The Cabinet and back box have to be done in two steps.  (I didn't want to hang them)  I just painted the bottom and that will need to dry for 24 hrs. before flipping it over to paint the rest. 

Attached Files

•  backbox spot putty.jpg   65.94KB   9 downloads
•  Backbox second prime.jpg   85.69KB   7 downloads
•  misc pieces painted.jpg   100.87KB   7 downloads
•  backbox bottom painted.jpg   206.73KB   7 downloads

Edited by sc204, 28 February 2015 - 03:08 PM.

[The Loafer]

What a great build, your attention to detail is excellent. Great read, thanks!

[sc204]

Painting pretty much done.  Back box and cabinet painted today.  Unfortunately I put a couple of marks on the upper left inside of the cabinet (above where the monitor will sit).  I think I hit it with my air hose while reaching in to paint the other side.  Only noticeable if you look closely but I will probably wait a couple of days and sand it and repaint the upper section.  (above the TV slot)  I can easily mask off the rest to avoid overspray.  I didn't bother painting the center of the sides as the graphic samples I received are pretty opaque and the paint on  the edges should not show through.  I will have to re-sand the sides and front though before applying the graphics to smooth out the overspray.  Only about 1/8" or less paint will show at the corners.  Might have made more sense just to have painted those with an airbrush after applying the graphics?

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  Backbox painted.jpg   128.17KB   6 downloads
•  cabinet painted.jpg   127.93KB   9 downloads

[sc204]

I did decide to repaint the one inside portion of one side of the cabinet.  I sanded out the defects with 320 paper and masked off the rest of the cabinet to prevent overspray from getting on the other surfaces. 

After it dried I was finally able to unmask the cleared bottom and underside of the cabinet.

My artwork was shipped and I should have it today or tomorrow if it is delayed due to the weather.  So hopefully I will be able to start assembling everything this weekend.

 

Even though the original Williams Bally cabinets had pressed board and not plywood on the bottom they were left unpainted.  So this is sort of an elegant "original" look.

Attached Files

•  repainted side.jpg   107.16KB   10 downloads
•  unmasked bottom.jpg   93.98KB   8 downloads
•  unmasked inside.jpg   136.04KB   7 downloads

Edited by sc204, 05 March 2015 - 07:02 PM.

[BzZziLLa]

This build makes mine look like a preschool craft project.. keep it up! The graphics will make it really pop.

[sc204]

Delayed due to weather.  Hopefully they will arrive tomorrow

[sc204]

Just finishing up a few details before applying the graphics which arrived   Thank you Bradley

 

I installed Williams large wing bolts and T nuts to hold the backbox  when in the upright position.  I still need to finish the RGB LED strip on top of the backbox and install the knocker.  Then the graphics....

Speaking of the LED strip ( 5RGB domes) During the initial build and testing I had installed them upright behind the playfield monitor.  Both myself and my son thought that they were distracting in that spot so we chose to mount them on the top of the Backbox.

 

Graphics are laying out on the floor to flatten them.

Attached Files

•  wingbolt.jpg   145.68KB   7 downloads
•  Cabinet sides.jpg   176.78KB   10 downloads

Edited by sc204, 07 March 2015 - 07:00 PM.

[Nemo]

Ohhh those are nice ! I´ll bet you can´t wait seeing them on the cab .....

[sc204]

Just put on the Back Box graphics stuff went on super easy.  Only issue to watch for is trapped dust which will show up right through the graphics.  I moved everything to my Living room to apply them as my workshop is pretty dusty

 

I will post pics when the cabinet is done as well.  may need to wait till tomorrow.  The Boss wants equal time

[sc204]

Before applying the graphics I sanded the sides with 320 wet one final time.  I tried to get rid of the orange peal from the Rustoleum and flatten out any high spots one last time.  In reality after applying the graphics, next  time I would really try to limit the color paint under them.  They go on just as smoothly over the primer which is easier to sand.  Since I chamfered the corners only that corner edge will show outside of the vinyl (under 1/8").

 

The air release technology works well.  I was able to squeegee out any trapped air without making the usual pinhole.  The corners of the cabinet were chamfered to keep the graphics off the actual corner where they are more prone to getting lifted if someone brushes by the cabinet corner.   I didn't want the edges of the graphic to catch on something brushing by.  This makes the edges a little tougher to trim but not too hard.  Using a fresh blade on whatever knife you choose just riding it along the chamfer held at a 45 degree angle seemed to work pretty well.  Except for a slight irregularity where you start the cut they come out nice and straight.  

 

Brad does a real nice job with the graphics and I am sure I will buy from him again if I need more in the future.

 

 Backbox graphic untrimmed.jpg   173.24KB   11 downloads

 

 trimming edges 1.jpg   85.74KB   10 downloads

 

 edges trimmed.jpg   157.5KB   10 downloads

 

The process will leave a white cut edge of the vinyl exposed.  I used a black sharpie carefully drawn down the edge of the vinyl to minimize it.

 

 vinyl edges.jpg   107.47KB   10 downloads

 

 edges after sharpie.jpg   85.68KB   10 downloads

All of the graphics on!

 

 All graphics on.jpg   151.99KB   11 downloads

 

I choose to use metal style cabinet protectors under the legs.  Empty box is much easier to get onto its legs compared to a real game.

 

 Corner protectors.jpg   134.25KB   11 downloads

 

 Cabinet on legs 1.jpg   159.56KB   10 downloads

 

 Cabinet on legs 2.jpg   155.87KB   10 downloads

Edited by sc204, 08 March 2015 - 03:07 PM.

[sc204]

We moved the game to our game room to finish assembly. 

Glass channel and side rails installed.  Coin door, plunger, some buttons and lockdown bar mechanism installed.

I also got the knocker in place.  It had to go on the rear door which opens as the side walls are too thin in that area.

 

 

Attached Files

•  In place 1.jpg   150.65KB   7 downloads
•  In place 2.jpg   156.73KB   6 downloads
•  Knocker.jpg   90.03KB   7 downloads

[randr]

Looks great

[stuzza]

Nice line up of pins!  ... and cool artwork.

[sc204]

With room (or permission) for only one more we decided to go with the virtual pin.  I appreciate the artwork and the amount of time to make it.  Just modifying the files you provided took me hours and hours until I was satisfied

[sc204]

Finishing up the project is sort of like finishing a regular pin restoration.  Once the cabinet is repainted and decals applied you start installing all of your components. Not quite as involved but still a lot of work to get everything back in the cabinet and make sure the wiring is kept as neat as possible. 

One final detail was to cut out some vinyl lettering for an exit sign appearance for the exit button on the cabinet. 

Originally I used terminal strips to connect the cabinet items to the computer tray items but decided to switch those to Molex connectors.  One for button lights, one for contactors etc.  I think I spent half of the day crimping pins onto wires

 

A couple of other details to try to keep the wiring as uncluttered as possible:  I placed an outlet strip in the cabinet and on the computer shelf.  The speaker module, and playfield TV plug into the cabinet outlet strip which is connected to the main power switch and the computer power supplies and rear box monitors plug into the computer tray outlet strip.  I also placed a USB hub in the cabinet for the speaker and digital plunger to plug into. 

 

Only items left are the RGB light bar on the top of the back box and to hook up the rear fans.

Attached Files

•  exit button.jpg   86.18KB   9 downloads
•  component install 1.jpg   134.89KB   9 downloads
•  component install 2.jpg   137.92KB   8 downloads
•  component install 3.jpg   124KB   9 downloads
•  component install 4.jpg   144.28KB   8 downloads
•  component install 5.jpg   156.4KB   9 downloads
•  component install 6.jpg   115.62KB   8 downloads
•  Backbox with monitors.jpg   80.56KB   10 downloads
•  Cabinet rear.jpg   106.72KB   11 downloads
•  monitor brace.jpg   111.41KB   8 downloads

Edited by sc204, 13 March 2015 - 01:07 PM.

[electricmagma]

Looks fantastic!!!!! I notice you didn't put any diodes across the contactors.... i didn't read this whole thread, so maybe you mentioned it there,  but i just wanted to bring it up as well incase it was an oversight.

 

Cheers and great work!

Edited by electricmagma, 13 March 2015 - 03:54 PM.

[sc204]

I am using Zebs boards and from what I read the diodes are on the boards.  If I am mistaken please let me know and thank you for the compliments.