734 replies to this topic

[mjr]

Outstanding work with the documentation!!! Joy to read!

Is there a way to compile the Physic5 version for the board?

 

Thanks!

 

I actually already did build a physmod5 version with my changes.  It's in the same dropbox folder as the other build (https://www.dropbox....2HtOshcJWkIe6ha - file is vpinball-physics-8-11-2014.exe).  The changes aren't specific to this board specifically, by the way - they should have the same effect for any accelerometer.  If you have one of the VirtuaPin plunger kits, for example, it should work equally well with that.

Edited by mjr, 15 August 2014 - 04:33 AM.

[goesta]

Thx mjr, sure a lot of physaddicted like me waited for this! ;-)

[parabolic]

Chomping at the bit waiting for UPS to get my parts here from Mouser! Im going to try an EL light source and if that works ill design and 3D print an enclosure for the sensor.

[gtxjoe]

Mjr Thanks for doing this. Will have give it a spin.

Can you change the registry location for your physmod build so we can run it easily side by side with the other vp builds without having to export import reg files?

Edited by gtxjoe, 15 August 2014 - 11:14 PM.

[The Loafer]

I 100% agree with the above

[mjr]

Can you change the registry location for your physmod build so we can run it easily side by side with the other vp builds without having to export import reg files?

 

Done - reg key is now Software\VIsual Pinball\DX9.physmod5.accelmod.  New version is in the same place as before (https://www.dropbox....2HtOshcJWkIe6ha, look for 8-15-2014 in the name).

 

I did the same thing with the original 9.9-based accelerometer mod version while I was at it - the new 8-15-2014 version uses reg key Software\Visual Pinball\DX9.accelmod.

Edited by mjr, 16 August 2014 - 01:01 AM.

[jkimbrell]

mrj, I was watching this youtube video of a pincab build:

 

 

and noticed when the guy was pointing out the virtual pinball plunger v2, its a KL25Z..  Was not aware it used the same hardware.

I would be interested to know that performs on your patched VP with the stock code.

[parabolic]

Ok, got the board and updated the bootloader per the instructions with it - afterwards it does not show up as the 128k disk like said - whats wrong?

Im on Win7 64 bit. It goes into bootloader mode fine - and I moved the 1 file over. unplug it and replug and it never shows up - unless I put it back in bootloader. I also installed the windows drivers.

Edited by parabolic, 16 August 2014 - 11:10 PM.

[parabolic]

Nevermind - I got it. There should be an ammendum to the install instructions." after installing the bootloader the MSD-DEBUG-FRDM-KL25Z_Pemicro_v114 file will need to be installed in the same manner as the bootloader for it to work as a usb device"

Or something to that effect....

[mjr]

Nevermind - I got it. There should be an ammendum to the install instructions." after installing the bootloader the MSD-DEBUG-FRDM-KL25Z_Pemicro_v114 file will need to be installed in the same manner as the bootloader for it to work as a usb device"

Or something to that effect....

 

Glad you got it figured out, and thanks for pointing out the solution.  I'll update that in the doc. 

[parabolic]

Ok - some progress.... I got the firmware and software loaded onto the board. I used CAT6 wire to hook up the sensor to the board - nice clean solution. I then have printed up mounts for the sensor and the board which provides nice standoffs  using 3mm hex screws as well as 2 simple mount holes for larger screws to mount it to the cab. I still have to start fitting the sensor over the plunger but this will give me a physical starting point to measure from. Once I get it in the cab and working wit a basic light source Im going to use some ELwire and see if I can build a enclosure that will just slip over the end of any existing plunger - if it works that is... It was said that might not be enough light source... 

Thanks SO MUCH for this contribution MJR!! 

 

Edited by parabolic, 18 August 2014 - 06:04 PM.

[jkimbrell]

cool mounts, dude.  I've been eyeing some of these commercially available "off the shelf" 3d printers.  What model are you using?  Microcenter has a Makerbot system setup and printing various intricate objects as a demo.  Pretty cool.

[parabolic]

cool mounts, dude.  I've been eyeing some of these commercially available "off the shelf" 3d printers.  What model are you using?  Microcenter has a Makerbot system setup and printing various intricate objects as a demo.  Pretty cool.

I have my own design. Ive been into the 3D printing for about 3 years starting with a RepRap. I have moved far away form that design to a much more robust framing system that Is more reliable and more solid. Plus my build area is larger at 12"x8"x10". The nice part is I can print off replacement parts for my printer (if need be). Makerbot started there but the owner decided to "not play nice" with the community he emerged from.

[mjr]

Ok - some progress.... I got the firmware and software loaded onto the board. I used CAT6 wire to hook up the sensor to the board - nice clean solution. I then have printed up mounts for the sensor and the board which provides nice standoffs  using 3mm hex screws as well as 2 simple mount holes for larger screws to mount it to the cab. I still have to start fitting the sensor over the plunger but this will give me a physical starting point to measure from. Once I get it in the cab and working wit a basic light source Im going to use some ELwire and see if I can build a enclosure that will just slip over the end of any existing plunger - if it works that is... It was said that might not be enough light source... 

 

Looks very nice!  Definitely keep us posted on how the EL light source works.  

I've uploaded the Windows configuration tool for this mentioned in the build guide - this lets you set a couple of software config options on the controller, and also lets you trigger plunger calibration mode from Windows, if you don't want to go to the trouble of including a hardware button for that function.  (This lets the software determine the alignment of the CCD sensor relative to the mechanical plunger for more accurate position readings.  The calibration is stored in non-volatile memory on the controller board, so you only need to calibrate when you install or move the components.)  C# source and .exe for the tool is included.  I've also pushed an update of the controller software (the .bin file) to the mbed repository - you'll need to install the updated version to use the config tool.

[parabolic]

Question - when you were first mounting up the sensor - you obviously did it with the TV out - did you get it correctly positioned the first time? I know in the guide it says 5-10mm above, how far forward of the tip of the plunger should it be in the idle state? I just hate in and out with the TV and would like to get it close enough to "software" adjust on the first try...

[mjr]

Question - when you were first mounting up the sensor - you obviously did it with the TV out - did you get it correctly positioned the first time? I know in the guide it says 5-10mm above, how far forward of the tip of the plunger should it be in the idle state? I just hate in and out with the TV and would like to get it close enough to "software" adjust on the first try...

 

I did manage to get my alignment right on the first try, and I just eyeballed it, so I think this means it doesn't have to be very exact.  In terms of front-back alignment, you want a little bit of the window to be in front of the tip of the plunger when all the way forward.  Doesn't have to be very much because the pixel density is so high.  I aimed for about 1/8".  Remember that the plunger can go a little further forward than its normal rest position when the barrel spring is compressed, so when you're lining it up, push in a little on the plunger to make sure you're at the true front of the travel.  Double-check that there's a little left covered when the plunger is pulled all the way back as well.

 

Hope that helps!  I think if you can line it up to your satisfaction visually, it'll be fine.

[parabolic]

 

Question - when you were first mounting up the sensor - you obviously did it with the TV out - did you get it correctly positioned the first time? I know in the guide it says 5-10mm above, how far forward of the tip of the plunger should it be in the idle state? I just hate in and out with the TV and would like to get it close enough to "software" adjust on the first try...

 

I did manage to get my alignment right on the first try, and I just eyeballed it, so I think this means it doesn't have to be very exact.  In terms of front-back alignment, you want a little bit of the window to be in front of the tip of the plunger when all the way forward.  Doesn't have to be very much because the pixel density is so high.  I aimed for about 1/8".  Remember that the plunger can go a little further forward than its normal rest position when the barrel spring is compressed, so when you're lining it up, push in a little on the plunger to make sure you're at the true front of the travel.  Double-check that there's a little left covered when the plunger is pulled all the way back as well.

 

Hope that helps!  I think if you can line it up to your satisfaction visually, it'll be fine.

 

Cool!! Im printing up a new mount as we speak.... It should put the holes in the centerline of the plunger... Ill eyeball the front to back as you did.. I dont have a rubber nose on mine anymore - does that matter?

You know - if this works out and someone wants to send me the measurement from the wall of the cab to the centerline of the plunger I can print these for people - as well as the Freescale mount...if desired that is...(and for you coming up with the design Ill send you a set out - FREE! If you want that is...MJR

Attached Files

•  sensor mount.jpg   41.11KB   28 downloads

Edited by parabolic, 18 August 2014 - 11:05 PM.

[mjr]

Cool!! Im printing up a new mount as we speak.... It should put the holes in the centerline of the plunger... Ill eyeball the front to back as you did.. I dont have a rubber nose on mine anymore - does that matter?

 

I think it's fine either way.  I do have the tip on, and haven't tested without, but if anything I'd think it would make the edge of the shadow a little sharper not to have the rounded rubber edges there.  

 

 

You know - if this works out and someone wants to send me the measurement from the wall of the cab to the centerline of the plunger I can print these for people - as well as the Freescale mount...if desired that is...(and for you coming up with the design Ill send you a set out - FREE! If you want that is...MJR

 

Very kind offer!  But I think I'll leave well enough alone on mine given that I have a mounting that's working.  

[RYSr]

 

Can you change the registry location for your physmod build so we can run it easily side by side with the other vp builds without having to export import reg files?

 

Done - reg key is now Software\VIsual Pinball\DX9.physmod5.accelmod.  New version is in the same place as before (https://www.dropbox....2HtOshcJWkIe6ha, look for 8-15-2014 in the name).

 

I did the same thing with the original 9.9-based accelerometer mod version while I was at it - the new 8-15-2014 version uses reg key Software\Visual Pinball\DX9.accelmod.

 

 

mjr,

 

Thanks you for sharing your talent and efforts with the rest of us with accelerometers needing a VP code update. and the new registry location as well.

 

Rich

[blashyrk]

Got my freescale board today, followed your guide and now its up and running Thanks for all your hard work mjr