975 replies to this topic

[rickh]

 

That's an interesting idea - basically put something like Flipper Logic in hardware.  I don't know, though; it seems like fixing the timing and power parameters in hardware isn't flexible enough.  I have to think some coils are going to need higher "hold" power to stay engaged and some need lower hold power to avoid overheating, so this seems like a job for the software side.

 

Thanks for your thoughts Mike.  We have been trying to solve this issue with overheating solenoids in a number of ways.  We tried using a high uF cap and resistor in parallel, both in series with the load.  The discharged cap appears as a momentary short giving the solenoid full current.  The resistor provides the holding current and discharges the cap (albeit slowly).  Works great on paper, but the RC T/C is too long to make it a practical duty cycle for flippers, perhaps a knocker.  Another drawback is that the holding current resistor now becomes the heater instead of the solenoid.   Applying this to my cabinet, I am using this circuit to drive a knocker, as I do not have the 555 timer as a safety mechanism.  

 

Rick

[Outhere]

Some ideals

https://www.vpforums...=39587&p=399236

[mjr]

We have been trying to solve this issue with overheating solenoids in a number of ways.  We tried using a high uF cap and resistor in parallel, both in series with the load.  The discharged cap appears as a momentary short giving the solenoid full current.  The resistor provides the holding current and discharges the cap (albeit slowly).  Works great on paper, but the RC T/C is too long to make it a practical duty cycle for flippers, perhaps a knocker. 

 

If you want to keep it to simple passives, maybe get a PPTC in the mix?  That might give you more control over the timing, and since they cut off current rather than burning it up as heat, that might help with the heating issue.  I guess the question is whether it would recover quickly enough to be useful here.

[rickh]

 PPTCs?  I forgot all about those.  We used to use them on Power supply outputs as resetable fuses.  Thanks for the idea.

 

Rick  

[Brer Frog]

mjr -

 

I'm just trying to remember a few things & recall that IE11 is needed for the config tool to work. No problem since I have Win7 with IE11. What happens when I update to a new PC with Win10 which does not have IE11, from what I understand?

 

Your webpage says "if you can make do without the config tool, you can use almost any Windows setup." How would you configure things without the config tool?

[mjr]

I'm just trying to remember a few things & recall that IE11 is needed for the config tool to work. No problem since I have Win7 with IE11. What happens when I update to a new PC with Win10 which does not have IE11, from what I understand?

 

It's actually not IE11 you need per se, it's the versions of the system components that IE11 comes with.  I'm pretty sure that those system components are automatically present and up-to-date on all Windows 10 systems. 

 

(And I don't think there's any problem with installing IE11 on a Win 10 system if you had, either.  It's the other way around that's usually the issue - you can't install the newer browser on an older machine beyond a certain point.)

 

 

Your webpage says "if you can make do without the config tool, you can use almost any Windows setup." How would you configure things without the config tool?

 

By changing config.h in the source code and rebuilding.  It's not the "preferred" way by any means.

[sppooky]

Hi a noob question here, so I apologise. I've just soldered pin headers to my standalone kl25 board. I've also got some Male to female Dupont cables. What do I need to get to connect the pin headers to my buttons? Can I use the Dupont cables into some terminal block and run my button wires from there? Or is there any wire 'housing' connectors I can get that connect straight onto the pin headers?

[STV]

Both options exist.  You can find the correct size "plugs"  either assembled in the correct number of holes or DIY push the connectors in type.    I just ran breadboard hookup wires (same thing as dupont cables I think)  to a terminal block and connect things there. 

[sppooky]

Both options exist.  You can find the correct size "plugs"  either assembled in the correct number of holes or DIY push the connectors in type.    I just ran breadboard hookup wires (same thing as dupont cables I think)  to a terminal block and connect things there.

Cheers for that. So I can simply connect the female pin of the cable

https://www.amazon.c...nt male &sr=8-3

To a terminal block similar to one like this:-

https://www.amazon.c...=gateway&sr=8-2

[STV]

Precisely:

 

    

[rickh]

I made a mezzanine board that piggy backs a normal KL25Z board.  This board allows easy button attachment using JST type connectors for up to 10 buttons.  It also includes 16 amplified digital outputs capable of driving up to .5 amps each channel and 6 high current outputs for driving solenoids, knockers, shakers, and other toys up to 3.5 Amps at either 12 or 24V. 

 

[sppooky]

Thanks guys. Can I also then use the same method of DuPont cables to also connect the LEDS from my buttons direct to the PWM output ports on the KL25 or is it better to use something like LEDWIZ board for the LEDS?

[mjr]

Thanks guys. Can I also then use the same method of DuPont cables to also connect the LEDS from my buttons direct to the PWM output ports on the KL25 or is it better to use something like LEDWIZ board for the LEDS?

 

The KL25Z GPIO outputs unfortunately can't handle any sort of power load, so no, you don't want to connect a lamp or LED directly.  Doing so would likely kill the KL25Z.  You need some kind of power booster to attach anything.  There are several options, including the Pinscape expansion boards, some pre-built MOSFET boards you can find on Amazon or eBay, or building your own MOSFET booster circuitry.  Take a look at this chapter - scroll down to "Standalone KL25Z" for details on all of those options:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...p?sid=psOutputs

[sppooky]

Thanks guys. Can I also then use the same method of DuPont cables to also connect the LEDS from my buttons direct to the PWM output ports on the KL25 or is it better to use something like LEDWIZ board for the LEDS?

 
The KL25Z GPIO outputs unfortunately can't handle any sort of power load, so no, you don't want to connect a lamp or LED directly.  Doing so would likely kill the KL25Z.  You need some kind of power booster to attach anything.  There are several options, including the Pinscape expansion boards, some pre-built MOSFET boards you can find on Amazon or eBay, or building your own MOSFET booster circuitry.  Take a look at this chapter - scroll down to "Standalone KL25Z" for details on all of those options:
 
http://mjrnet.org/pi...p?sid=psOutputs

Thanks mjr. I got some 4 port mosfets boards that I was going to use for the contractors. So I can use a single mosfet board to power 4 led buttons into 4 kl25 pwm ports for dof? I also got a spare pacled64, would that be a better way to powering led buttons for dof than above solution?

Edited by sppooky, 28 April 2019 - 02:46 PM.

[mjr]

I got some 4 port mosfets boards that I was going to use for the contractors. So I can use a single mosfet board to power 4 led buttons into 4 kl25 pwm ports for dof? I also got a spare pacled64, would that be a better way to powering led buttons for dof than above solution?

 

Either way should work.  Which way is easier is a bit of a trade-off - I think it comes down to whether or not you were going to deploy the pacled in the cab anyway.  If you *are* going to deploy the pacled in any case, you might as well connect the button LEDs to that, since it's easier to physically wire them there (no MOSFET boards to mess with).  If you're *not* going to deploy the pacled anyway, it's probably easier overall to go with the MOSFET boards and KL25Z outputs, since that way you don't have to worry about setting up another device (the pacled) in DOF.

[sppooky]

Cheers. Think il go with the mosfets, and return the pacled64. Cheaper option too plus was going to use them anyway for the rest of the toys. Just need to work out how many mosfet boards/outputs I need in total

[sppooky]

Sorry another question about connecting the Mosfet boards to the 12v LED buttons. Is the following correct:- daisychain 12v power to the 4 led buttons and to the power output port of the Mosfet. Connect the gnd/common from the power supply to the - power port of the Mosfet. Connect the 4 output channel ports of the Mosfet board to the 4 LED buttons.

 

Solder 4x 1k resistors to the mosfet Inputs. connect other side of the resistors to 4x Pinscape PWM ports via Dupont cables. Also Connect the 4 input ports of the mosfet to Pinscape gnd via Dupont cables.

 

and then Only difference when adding high powered devices is to add a diode between toy and mosfet?

 

Anything I got wrong or could be done better?

[STV]

That sounds like an accurate description of the way I used them.   MJRs or MikePinball's expansion boards are a much more efficient use of space but if you're doing those red mosfet boards that's how it's done.   

 

 

Edited by STV, 29 April 2019 - 03:35 PM.

[BorgDog]

Just wanted to say thanks Mike, @mjr for the outstanding pinscape setup.  I just put a plunger in my mini-cab with the basic kl25z board and a potentiometer setup.  Was a quick easy painless switch over from my old Ipac and sidewinder(nudge) setup, and I much prefer having a plunger now instead of just a launch button, although I did put in a separate launch button as well.      

[rickh]

Dan,

 

Indeed!  Mike's generous contributions to virtual pinball is the driving force that has made virtual pinball so successful.   Thank you so much Mike for sharing your genius and your time.

 

Sincerely,

 

Rick

Just wanted to say thanks Mike, @mjr for the outstanding pinscape setup.  I just put a plunger in my mini-cab with the basic kl25z board and a potentiometer setup.  Was a quick easy painless switch over from my old Ipac and sidewinder(nudge) setup, and I much prefer having a plunger now instead of just a launch button, although I did put in a separate launch button as well.