1103 replies to this topic

[toy4x4]

Thanks mjr. That is what I figured but was wanted to make sure. Right now I am only starting the board testing phase so I'll just have to run a long set of wires.

Wish me luck in testing 😁

Edited by toy4x4, 01 July 2019 - 01:24 PM.

[toy4x4]

Main and output board tests fine through Pinscape Config. On to the Visual Pinball and DOF setup. 

 

Is it sad the soldering, wiring and testing is less confusing than the actual pinball software to me?

[MikePinball]

Is it sad the soldering, wiring and testing is less confusing than the actual pinball software to me?

 

No. Everyone has different skill sets so we all learn from each other. For example, my skills (out of 10):

1. Software setup: 9
2. Hardware setup: 8
3. Soldering: 9
4. Electronics: 7
5. Woodworking: 4
6. Metalworking: 2
7. CAD design: 5 and improving
8. Creative Design e.g. Pinball Cabinets: 2
9. Virtual Pinball Tables: 2

Because there are so many skills required for this hobby, there is an opportunity to learn new things.

[nevess]

What is the cheapest place to buy the expansion board pcb in europe?

[nevess]

I'm analyzing different ways to get the pcbs to assemble the expansion boards, including using  services available to fabricate them. However when I go to these services there options that I don't know what to choose.

 

What should I choose in these services. Here are some links as an example of what I am talking about.

https://pcbshopper.com/

https://jlcpcb.com/quote

[wrd1972]

Anyone interested in working with me to redesign the plunger housing to accommodate the 100mm sliding pot that MJR reccomends?  The plunger housing that MJR has here, can nto accommodate this pot, without some  generous machining of the structure. But when this recommended pot is installed in the housing, it works smoothly, and in a very linear fashion EXACTLY as it should. Also wanted to add that playing games with skill shots, is much more enjoyable. I absolutely could not be more happy with the results.

 

So I can provide the dimensions of the pot, but someone else will need to redo the 3d object, and possibly print it and send it to me for testing. I will put together a BOM of additional hardware that is needed for the install, and then all of the details can be provided to MJR to post here on his site for others to take advantage of.

 

Anyone interested?

[mjr]

I'm analyzing different ways to get the pcbs to assemble the expansion boards, including using  services available to fabricate them. However when I go to these services there options that I don't know what to choose.

 

What should I choose in these services. Here are some links as an example of what I am talking about.

https://pcbshopper.com/

https://jlcpcb.com/quote

 

 

I'm working right now on fleshing out the "Fabricating the Expansion Boards" section, which will hopefully answer most of your questions:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...hp?sid=expanFab

 

I still have to write the section about how to generate custom Gerbers, so if you need that before you can proceed, stand by and I'll try to get to it shortly.  But I wanted to post what I have so far to get you un-stuck at the shopping stage, at least.

So I can provide the dimensions of the pot, but someone else will need to redo the 3d object, and possibly print it and send it to me for testing. I will put together a BOM of additional hardware that is needed for the install, and then all of the details can be provided to MJR to post here on his site for others to take advantage of.

 

That would be great!  Please let me know if you get that put together, and I'll happily post it on my site.

[BorgDog]

Anyone interested in working with me to redesign the plunger housing to accommodate the 100mm sliding pot that MJR reccomends?  The plunger housing that MJR has here, can nto accommodate this pot, without some  generous machining of the structure. But when this recommended pot is installed in the housing, it works smoothly, and in a very linear fashion EXACTLY as it should. Also wanted to add that playing games with skill shots, is much more enjoyable. I absolutely could not be more happy with the results.

 

So I can provide the dimensions of the pot, but someone else will need to redo the 3d object, and possibly print it and send it to me for testing. I will put together a BOM of additional hardware that is needed for the install, and then all of the details can be provided to MJR to post here on his site for others to take advantage of.

 

Anyone interested?

 

I recently converted over my mini-cab to a pinscape controller, with the primary purpose of adding a plunger and used the sliding pot reccomended.  What I did was mount the pot on a pair of right angle brackets I had lying around (1/2" wide, 2" long legs I believe) and mounted roughly parallel to the plunger.  then did a few wraps of wire around the plunger rod that I sandwiched between the c-clip and the bushing on the spring and extended straight down and then bent to go through a small hole I drilled in the slider.  picture below hopefully helps with how this is setup, it's tough to get a pic of through a 5" square coin door opening in the mini (home made coin door is new upgrade as well).

 

I ended up trying a couple different wire types I had around to get one of the correct stiffness that not only allows me to spin the plunger knob without the wire coming out of the slider but also does not flex forward/backward as the plunger is pulled and released.  I also found it much easier to bend the wire and put it through the hole before attaching the angle brackets to the cab.  as you can see I had to put one bracket up because there was no room down.  anyway, the whole thing works great and was easy to make with stuff I had lying around.  I plan on doing similar on my big cab when I get around to converting it over to the expansion boards.

 

[wrd1972]

Here is my modified setup using MJR's printed housing:

 

All I did was machine the slot to accommodate the larger pot. Then I ran a 10mm tap over the shooter rod end, added a washer, and tightened it down with a nut. Lastly I added a tiny slot to the wiper arm for the pot. Takes 15 minutes to build. Done!

 

Again if someone wants to work with me on this to modify the existing housing. The community could surely benefit from it.

[nevess]

 

I'm analyzing different ways to get the pcbs to assemble the expansion boards, including using  services available to fabricate them. However when I go to these services there options that I don't know what to choose.

 

What should I choose in these services. Here are some links as an example of what I am talking about.

https://pcbshopper.com/

https://jlcpcb.com/quote

 

 

I'm working right now on fleshing out the "Fabricating the Expansion Boards" section, which will hopefully answer most of your questions:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...hp?sid=expanFab

 

I still have to write the section about how to generate custom Gerbers, so if you need that before you can proceed, stand by and I'll try to get to it shortly.  But I wanted to post what I have so far to get you un-stuck at the shopping stage, at least.

Thanks mjr, thats exacly what I need.

[mawrew]

First of all I want to thank mjr for ALL of his amazing work on this. I have been following for a while and have decided to take the plunge.  I ordered my boards and components this week and got everything very quickly.  I got the boards from jlcpcb and I have to say I was very impressed with the entire process.  I ordered 5 main boards and 5 power boards on Sunday night and they arrived on Thursday....  really great experience.

 

Tonight I decided to start soldering things up on the power board and so far everything has been smooth sailing.  I hope to keep track of how I am assembling the boards (order of components, etc.).  Looking forward to getting these going and getting them installed!

 

I do currently run Pinscape controller for nudge and plunger and those seem to work great.

Wish me luck! ;-)

[mjr]

Wish me luck! ;-)

 

Great progress so far - good luck!

[Suikazz]

Here is my modified setup using MJR's printed housing:

 
All I did was machine the slot to accommodate the larger pot. Then I ran a 10mm tap over the shooter rod end, added a washer, and tightened it down with a nut. Lastly I added a tiny slot to the wiper arm for the pot. Takes 15 minutes to build. Done!
 
Again if someone wants to work with me on this to modify the existing housing. The community could surely benefit from it.

There is already a solution available either for printing yourself:
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3183407

Or ready to purchase from here:
https://germangaming...uge-Plunger-Set

[MikePinball]

There is already a solution available either for printing yourself:
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3183407

Or ready to purchase from here:
https://germangaming...uge-Plunger-Set

 

 

So this is slightly off topic from wrd1972's post...

 

I used the design from thingiverse and found some issues with the bdesign that I posted back on the thingiverse site - see the comments section. I don't know if the issues I pointed out have been resolved or not. I have also described my experience using this part in my Mikrocontroller cabinet - see part 9 of my writeup. It has some good tips and part numbers used all collected into one thread.

[Suikazz]

I know that guide and after some talks with the creator and NO negative feedback apart from you it looks rock solid to me.
600+ downloads and idk how many purchases there should be at least some more negative feedback, don’t you think?

There is already a solution available either for printing yourself:
https://www.thingive...m/thing:3183407

Or ready to purchase from here:
https://germangaming...uge-Plunger-Set
 

 
So this is slightly off topic from wrd1972's post...
 
I used the design from thingiverse and found some issues with the bdesign that I posted back on the thingiverse site - see the comments section. I don't know if the issues I pointed out have been resolved or not. I have also described my experience using this part in my Mikrocontroller cabinet - see part 9 of my writeup. It has some good tips and part numbers used all collected into one thread.

Wrd1972’s intention was to get some feedback from the community and I served him by pointing to an already available solution with the publicly available design. Correct me if that was wrong in any case.

[MikePinball]

I know that guide and after some talks with the creator and NO negative feedback apart from you it looks rock solid to me.
600+ downloads and idk how many purchases there should be at least some more negative feedback, don’t you think?

Wow !! You seem to be overly sensitive and defensive. Perhaps I should have used the word problem instead of issue.

 

My feedback is not negative - I would suggest you read my comments and my Mikrocontroller append again. It points out a couple of problems in the design that was seen by at least one other person with a Gottlieb plunger. I have a Williams plunger from VirtuaPin. I just want people to know about this experience before they print their own copy.

 

Rappelbox aka Dominik aka GGS said in his response to my comment:

 

"Thanks for sharing some feedback! I'll fix the holes in the next version The slider fixation is supposed to fit exactly into the potentiometer slot on the mounting part. I had no issues so far but i'll keep your suggestion in mind for 2.0. Thank you also for mentioning another slide pot."

 

This is all that I would expect. Recognition of the problem report and a willingness to improve things for everyone.

[roar]

Hi mjr, I'm soldering up another set of boards and one of the resistors from mouser is out of stock...

 

https://www.mouser.c...Z%2B7urJWnTrA==

 

Is there an alternative that can be used? I checked digikey and they don't have any 4.02 Ohm 1/3 watt ones for sale. I'd like to check out the local electronic parts store but is there an alternative set of specs that may be able to be used if this is an uncommon part?

[mjr]

Hi mjr, I'm soldering up another set of boards and one of the resistors from mouser is out of stock...

 

https://www.mouser.c...Z%2B7urJWnTrA==

 

Is there an alternative that can be used? I checked digikey and they don't have any 4.02 Ohm 1/3 watt ones for sale. I'd like to check out the local electronic parts store but is there an alternative set of specs that may be able to be used if this is an uncommon part?

 

That's actually a 4.02 *K* ohm resistor - probably what you meant, but just in case.  

 

For that particular resistor, it doesn't actually have to be very precise, because its function is to set the current used in the optocouplers, and they can tolerate a wide range.  4K sets a current of about 10 mA - I used that because it's on the low end of the range for what will work, which minimizes power and heat.  The optos can actually tolerate much higher currents, up to about 50 mA, which means that in principle you could safely substitute any resistor down to about 780 ohms in place of the 4K.  Not that you should raise the current *that* much, as it would pointlessly increase the heat levels and probably reduce the life of the optos somewhat as a result.  But the point is that it's perfectly safe to pick another resistor in the 4K ballpark without having to hit that exact number.   As for power, anything should work; 1/8 or 1/4 W will be fine.  That resistor carries negligible current.

 

Try this part number at Mouser:  594-5063JD4K020F

[roar]

 

Hi mjr, I'm soldering up another set of boards and one of the resistors from mouser is out of stock...

 

https://www.mouser.c...Z%2B7urJWnTrA==

 

Is there an alternative that can be used? I checked digikey and they don't have any 4.02 Ohm 1/3 watt ones for sale. I'd like to check out the local electronic parts store but is there an alternative set of specs that may be able to be used if this is an uncommon part?

 

That's actually a 4.02 *K* ohm resistor - probably what you meant, but just in case.  

 

For that particular resistor, it doesn't actually have to be very precise, because its function is to set the current used in the optocouplers, and they can tolerate a wide range.  4K sets a current of about 10 mA - I used that because it's on the low end of the range for what will work, which minimizes power and heat.  The optos can actually tolerate much higher currents, up to about 50 mA, which means that in principle you could safely substitute any resistor down to about 780 ohms in place of the 4K.  Not that you should raise the current *that* much, as it would pointlessly increase the heat levels and probably reduce the life of the optos somewhat as a result.  But the point is that it's perfectly safe to pick another resistor in the 4K ballpark without having to hit that exact number.   As for power, anything should work; 1/8 or 1/4 W will be fine.  That resistor carries negligible current.

 

Try this part number at Mouser:  594-5063JD4K020F

 

 

I picked up some 3.3K 1/4W 1% MF... resistors... should those do the trick?

[mjr]

I picked up some 3.3K 1/4W 1% MF... resistors... should those do the trick?

 

Yeah, that should be fine to use in place of the 4K.