1103 replies to this topic

[bigfoot53]

Evening All,

I've been looking through the forums but cant seem to find the answer i'm looking for . Can someone tell me what pins I need to use for a potentiometer for my plunger on the expansion board .

 

Thanks

Bruce

[mjr]

I've been looking through the forums but cant seem to find the answer i'm looking for . Can someone tell me what pins I need to use for a potentiometer for my plunger on the expansion board .

 

Here you go:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...ide.php?sid=pot

[bigfoot53]

Awesome  Thanks.

It works great !!!

 

Now I have a new issue today while I was testing a few tables PIN SIX "ENTER KEY" pct11  is stuck on . I've disconnected all the wires and it still stays on I removed the card form the expansion board and the input stays off so it has to be something on the expansion board ?  but what everything looks good and it has been working for a few weeks .

The inputs are just straight connections to the main board correct  NO CHIPS INVOLVED ?

I haven't changed anything so its kind of strange . What could possibly be the issue ?

Thanks

Bruce

[bigfoot53]

Also just for conformation  is it correct to have the buttons connected to one side of the switch and the other to gnd  pin 26 on the pinscape board header ?

 

Thanks

Bruce

[mjr]

Now I have a new issue today while I was testing a few tables PIN SIX "ENTER KEY" pct11  is stuck on . I've disconnected all the wires and it still stays on I removed the card form the expansion board and the input stays off so it has to be something on the expansion board ?  

 

Taking the KL25Z out of the expansion boards was a good thing to test.  It sounds like the problem has to be somewhere on the expansion boards.  

 

For a button input, "on" means that the pin for the button is shorted to ground, so there's probably either some stray solder on the bottom of the board, or maybe a stray strand of wire somewhere around the connector pins.  If you have a multimeter, you can test for continuity between the button input pin and the ground pin (pin 26 - the one labeled CMN - on JP1 BUTTON INPUTS).  If it shows continuity with the KL25Z and the button wires unplugged, you've got a short somewhere on the expansion board.  

 

It could also be somewhere in the wiring between the expansion board and the button, so if you don't see continuity with the button wiring unplugged, try plugging that in and testing again - if it shows continuity at that point, it must be in the wiring.

 

You should do a visual inspection as well to see if you can spot any stray solder around the bottoms of the pins, but I often find that shorts can often be invisible to the eye - the amount of metal required to short something can be really microscopic in some cases.  So the multimeter test is more reliable.

 

 

Also just for conformation  is it correct to have the buttons connected to one side of the switch and the other to gnd  pin 26 on the pinscape board header ?

 

Yes, exactly right!

Edited by mjr, 07 May 2018 - 05:28 PM.

[mon72]

Hi
I have bought a Pinscape board kit and I was thinking about the best way to connect the wires.
I was thinking about buying dupont connectors and terminals and crimp my own connectors for the boards...
What is the recomended Wire size for each pin?
I have been looking around but cant find any mention of this.

Does any one have a pinout list? And some tips for connectors.

I think alot of us would be interested in this.

Thanks for your awsome work "mjr"

Edited by mon72, 15 May 2018 - 08:08 PM.

[mjr]

I have bought a Pinscape board kit and I was thinking about the best way to connect the wires.
I was thinking about buying dupont connectors and terminals and crimp my own connectors for the boards...
What is the recomended Wire size for each pin?

 

You can find all of the reference pin headers, crimp pins, and crimp pin housings in the main parts list:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...p?sid=partslist

 

You can find some advice on selecting wire (including gauge) here:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...de.php?sid=wire

 

Crimp pins are sized for particular ranges of wire gauges, so you'll want to match the pins and the wires.  The pins in the parts list are for 30-22, so they should work with any of the common sizes for a pin cab.  I've found 22 AWG to be a good one-size-fits-all choice - that makes things easy because you can just buy a large quantity of the one type of wire and use it for almost everything.  Although 22 a bit thicker (and thus more expensive) than you really need for the low power signal connections like the button wiring; you can go down to 24 AWG or even smaller for that.

 

 

Does any one have a pinout list?

 

The connections are all marked on the boards themselves, although the text is pretty tiny and can be hard to read once you get connectors attached.  If you want some bigger images for reference, you can grab the ZIP files with the PCB EAGLE sources, which also include JPEGs of the board layouts, where the text is generally more easily readable:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...rd/download.php

 

There's also more detail on how to connect feedback devices here:

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...p?sid=psOutputs

[marc9]

I just found the answers to my questions in the Schematic.pdf document from here: http://mjrnet.org/pi...rd/download.php (R3.201602xx)

----------

Hi,

if i understand it correctly there are two power supply inputs on the mainboard (PC PSU and 2ND PSU) to separate the circuits before and after the opto couplers. The voltage on the PC PSU port has to be 5V to provide the correct voltage for the opto couplers?. Any r,g,b pin on the small LED/Opto JP8 header are limited to 20mA.

I would like to use four RGB LEDs (from a 12V LED strip) on three ports (R,G,B) on JP8. Each color channel can use about 80 mA. The datasheet of the TLC5940NT shows that the chip can handle 120mA per channel, even if all ports are used simultaneously. The resistors for the LEDs are already installed on the strip for 12V. I would use the +12V from 2ND PSU if it has the same ground as the TLC.
 

The current limit is set by R5 on the expansion board.  If you used the default 2.2K for R5, those outputs are throttled at 20mA, which is the typical requirement for small LEDs.

 

Could i just bridge the resistor R5 to remove the 20mA limitation?

 

Edited by marc9, 16 May 2018 - 03:04 PM.

[lumberg]

Hi mjr I was wondering if there is an alternative for the 1k resistors (https://www.mouser.c...MS1-4DCT52R1001) on the power board mouser are out of stock till July or august I don't mind if I have to wait but an alternative is hard to track down anything mouser seem to be the only stockists thanks in advance

Edited by lumberg, 16 May 2018 - 11:49 AM.

[marc9]

Hi mjr I was wondering if there is an alternative for the 1k resistors (https://www.mouser.c...MS1-4DCT52R1001) on the power board mouser are out of stock till July or august I don't mind if I have to wait but an alternative is hard to track down anything mouser seem to be the only stockists thanks in advance

 

 

https://eu.mouser.co...b0kXYfzUr/hgIQ=

[lumberg]

Thanks marc9


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[volley]

On the main board there looks to be a 2 pin connector for +5v and gnd labelled pc psu. There is another 4 pin connector for 12v I believe and another on the expansion board. Do you have the part numbers for the connectors that attach to the Pinscape board? I am trying to make a pigtail for this.

Edited by volley, 27 May 2018 - 03:04 AM.

[volley]

OK...next issue with the power. I boutght my pinscape already assembled. Hooked up just the button inputs, everything works fine. Hooked up the PC PSU +5v and GND from one of the molex connectors to the Pinscape. Tested in the config tool for an RGB flipper, worked great. Heard a snap, saw smoke. Shut everything off. The smoke appeared to come from the +5v PSU connection point on the Pinscape board. IC12 got pretty hot. Checked for continuity between gnd and +5V, nothing. Checked the output on the power supply, +5v exact. Button input still works just fine.

Continuity between +5v and IC12 seems fine.

Any suggestions? Was it just a short in my +5v PSU connection? I had it in a header pin connector so it shouldn’t have shorted there. Should IC12 get hot?

Thanks all.

[Rappelbox]

Hi volley,

Ic 12 is the lm1117 3.3V voltage regulator and shouldn’t get hot normally.
Did you check if it’s mounted in the correct direction and if it’s indeed the lm1117?

The 4port molex connector has 12v/gnd/gnd/5V

[volley]

Hi volley,
Ic 12 is the lm1117 3.3V voltage regulator and shouldnt get hot normally.
Did you check if its mounted in the correct direction and if its indeed the lm1117?
The 4port molex connector has 12v/gnd/gnd/5V

Thanks for the response! Should have just bought mine through you guys. Will check the lm1117.

UPDATE: Found that C6 is cracked and discolored. That was the snap we heard. Besides a defective part, what would cause that?

Edited by volley, 27 May 2018 - 10:33 PM.

[Rappelbox]

 

UPDATE: Found that C6 is cracked and discolored. That was the snap we heard. Besides a defective part, what would cause that?

 

 

C6 is a 4.7uF tantal capacitor. most probably it has been mounted in the wrong direction. these cantal capacitors are directional, meaning the (+) should face towards C11

[marc9]

I'am about to build the mainboard. Is there a scheme where i can look up the polarity of the ceramic capacitors (c1, c2, c4, c6, c7, c9, c12)? I can't find that information in the Layout snapshot.jpg from the Pinscape_Expansion_Boards_R3.201602xx.zip archive. I could follow the pathways or use a multimeter to get that information, but maybe that's interesting for others too.
 

http://www.mjrnet.or...p?v=R3.201602xx

[Rappelbox]

Ceramic capacitors are not directional. Only the tantal capacitors C2 and C6, where the (+) of C2 faces towards the 220 resistor R7 and for C6 (+) faces towards C11

[marc9]

Thank you!

[marc9]

"Capacitors with the same capacitance (µF or nF) value and the same type ("electrolytic" or "ceramic") are usually interchangeable. "Ceramic" and "disc" capacitors are the same type. Tantalum capacitors are not interchangeable with ceramic/disk, even if they have the same capacitance value."

In the shoppinglist of the mainboard ( http://www.mjrnet.or...p?sid=partslist ) c2 and c6 are ceramic capacitors:

C2    150nF (0.15uF) capacitor (ceramic, 2.5mm lead spacing)    581-SR595E154MARTR1 https://eu.mouser.co...SR595E154MARTR1
C6    4.7uF capacitor (ceramic, 2.5mm lead spacing)    810-FG14X5R1H475KRT0    https://eu.mouser.co...G14X5R1H475KRT0

Is this correct?