1103 replies to this topic

[Fusionwerks]

Anyway, the timing for the TV ON switch shouldn't have any dependency on the Windows boot time.  If anything, you want the monitors to turn on before Windows finishes booting, so that they'll be visible on the hardware ports by the time Windows scans for monitors during the boot cycle.  You only need to delay the ON signal long enough to give the *TVs* time to become responsive to control inputs.  Most TVs take a few seconds to power on to that stage.  The default timing in the firmware is 7 seconds, I think.  Maybe what you need to do is shorten the time to get your TVs online earlier in the boot process - maybe try reducing it to 5 seconds or 3 seconds.  The only thing that should matter is whether the TV is responsive enough to receive the ON switch signal and power on.

Well I am still having a B**** of a time getting this to work right. I have tried both the power switch and IR function, and they both work, but the monitor comes on for a split second then seems to not recieve a signal, so it just powers off. IF I power it up manually, after Windows starts it stays on, but i have to go to the Windows resolution settings and make it re-recognize it.
I have tried to scour the internet to find info on how to get into the service menu in hopes that there is a "what to do after power failure option" but all the instructions say to hold the ch + & ch - buttons on the TV (not remote) in combo with pushing the power button. Unfortunately my tv does not have any other buttons besides the power, and holding them on the remote doesn't work. So I am left with a few options, 1. Find the right way to get to the service menu and hope there is a restore power option, 2, just live with having to turn the monitor on at just the right time during boot (which varies), or 3. Return the F'n Visio, and buy the Samsung that I now works. I went against my best judgement and experience with Visios and bought it because the store was out of stock on the Samsung, and I was excited to get a new working backglass...
Will report back if I find the service menu and find that it works, it might be use full info for people struggling with the same issue.

Edited by Fusionwerks, 23 March 2018 - 01:08 PM.

[mjr]

That sounds incredibly frustrating.  I'm using two Vizios myself and they work like you'd expect (and like every other TV does), but it's clear that you can't expect any consistency from brand names on TVs - the brand doesn't mean much any more with all the cross-licensing and outsourced manufacturing.

 

So, it's really odd that your TV turns OFF when it doesn't see a signal.  The whole point of the external TV ON circuit is that the TV isn't sensing the signal status itself.  It's just insane that your TV would turn itself OFF when there's no signal present, but it doesn't do the reverse and power ON when the signal appears.  Sheesh, what are you supposed to do if you have this TV attached to a Blu-Ray player?  You're just supposed to leave the player on all the time, I suppose.

 

Out of curiosity, what happens if you NEVER cut power to the TV?  Will it turn itself off when the computer turns off?  If so, I have a kind of hacky idea that might work for you:

 

1.  Wire the TV's 120V power so it's always connected.  No hard power switching ever.

 

2.  Let the TV turn off by itself when it loses the computer signal after the computer shuts down.  That will take care of the POWER OFF half of the cycle.

 

3.  If you can identify a POWER ON (not POWER TOGGLE, but pure POWER ON) command in the remote control set, we can make Pinscape send that command by IR repeatedly during the boot cycle.  So instead of sending it once after 7 seconds, we can make it so that it sends it 2-3 times per second for however long you need that to happen for reliable operation.  That way, it should catch the right moment where the video signal is ready from the computer.

 

This really depends on the remote control set having a pure POWER ON command, because the POWER TOGGLE that's probably on the physical remote obviously won't work if you send it over and over like that.  Most TVs have hidden POWER ON commands in their IR set for the purposes of learning remotes, which need it so that they can include ON commands in macro sequences without having to know the previous state of the TV.

 

That'll take a change to the firmware, obviously, but you might be able to tell if it's worth pursuing by doing some manual testing with the regular remote, to see if the basic is right that there's a magic time window that we need to hit.

[Fusionwerks]

I solved it I just took the easy/lazy approach. I returned the TV, and asked an associate to unplug them and plug them back in to prove that it worked the way i wanted. Well, as it turned out, the Vizio in the same size, same series, in the 1080p model has this capability, but not the 720p model i initially bought. So i guess my BG will be 1080p. Didn't need the higher resolution and the "smart" capability, but i guess it will work out better than having to cobble together something... I just want it to work the way it always has. Push 1 button and play pinball... Luckily my wife agreed, she didn't want to fight it either. Happy wife, Happy pinball life... Thanks for the help regardless. 

Edited by Fusionwerks, 23 March 2018 - 09:18 PM.

[mjr]

I solved it I just took the easy/lazy approach. I returned the TV, and asked an associate to unplug them and plug them back in to prove that it worked the way i wanted. Well, as it turned out, the Vizio in the same size, same series, in the 1080p model has this capability, but not the 720p model i initially bought. So i guess my BG will be 1080p. Didn't need the higher resolution and the "smart" capability, but i guess it will work out better than having to cobble together something...

 

Yes, ditching the weird dysfunctional model seems like a great solution.

[yagesz]

 

With plunger removed. I still get crashes on my system with the shaker motor and Knocker (both freshly rewired. SO only LEDS. Motor. System crash. Leds and Knocker. System Crash.  Just LEDS... Plays all day.

 

Okay, I see.  

 

Have you tried it with just the plunger connected?  No LEDs, motor, or shaker?  I'm thinking the plunger must be a whole separate problem, which might be part of why it's been so difficult to figure out what's going on.  If you can get a crash without anything but the plunger connected, that would tend to confirm that idea.  If not, I'm not sure what to make of the plunger crashes when other things are attached - maybe some kind of interaction I'm not seeing, maybe pure coincidence.

 

 

 

MJR i want to say thank you for putting up with a few of us that have troubles and being a great dude. I FINALLY FIXED my issue. At least I prey I have. I have hooked most of my toys back up and I am not getting problems at all.

PROBLEMS in a Nutshell:

• Plunger would cause system crash (10k Pot)
• System would have too many toys going and crash
• Leds never caused a problem. They just ate up load
• 4 seperate PSU's burned out. 1 Motherboard (All under warranty thankfully)
• Shaker and Knocker were the 2 heaviest loads that would regularly crash my system

The FIX:

Wire 12v 5v and ground to the toys PSU. Wire the secondary 5v and ground to the PC PSU.

 

I asked in several places and everyone basically told me that the secondary could be daisy chained with the toys psu. I was advised to chain the ground from both pc's so that the system has a stable 0v or neutral or whatever its called. This cannot happen. It caused me so much headache and problems I didn't know about. When I first wired it this way everything worked great for a couple months no problems at all. But slowly I was getting a system crash here and there. And not like blue screen I am talking black screen pc is off.  Then after a few of these I burned up a PSU. replaced then replaced shaker diode because the shaker tripped it. No problems for a few days than on a Serious great first ball on IJ knocker goes off and fry a second psu.  Replace diode there. But no resolved. Now I am getting crashing anytime the system gets really going. Pull the plunger release bam. 3rd PSU. Removed all wiring. only leds are still wired and plunger. LEDS are doing there thing drop plunger. boom 4th psu. As you can tell a roller coaster of BS. Unsure of what it was. I got rid of my 24v atx psu and swapped in a booster board. Nothing. Double checked all wiring making sure there was no crossovers for stray voltage and nothing. I cleaned a couple solder points. Changed out power strip surge protectors. And boom. Motherboard dies. Finally the secondary psu lines I had left daisy chained off everything else. Removed them. Wired fresh to the pc PSU. Start playing everythign works. Plunger is not killing me nothing. Then add shaker. Game keeps playing. Add knocker. Still going. I added 4 of my Contactors. went back to the old power strips.  EVERYTHING IS STILL WORKING.

 

I Hope my story is useful to someone but the moral is wire it directly with 2 seperate PSU's the way it was designed. Far less headaches.

 

EDIT PS:

The Psu's that were burning out were the ones ALWAYS running my PC. Never the toys PSU.

Edited by yagesz, 25 March 2018 - 04:40 AM.

[LynnInDenver]

When I first wired it this way everything worked great for a couple months no problems at all. But slowly I was getting a system crash here and there. And not like blue screen I am talking black screen pc is off.

 

Sounds like chaining them together was causing the PC PSU to get overloaded and shut down. That's not actually a crash, that's just the PSU protection kicking in. I used to get that when I rendered 3d images more than I do now, on a previous computer, and I had to tweak the software to avoid it (it was caused by a plugin I added). When it keeps doing it, the PSU eventually does get damaged anyway.

[yagesz]

 

When I first wired it this way everything worked great for a couple months no problems at all. But slowly I was getting a system crash here and there. And not like blue screen I am talking black screen pc is off.

 

Sounds like chaining them together was causing the PC PSU to get overloaded and shut down. That's not actually a crash, that's just the PSU protection kicking in. I used to get that when I rendered 3d images more than I do now, on a previous computer, and I had to tweak the software to avoid it (it was caused by a plugin I added). When it keeps doing it, the PSU eventually does get damaged anyway.

 

 

Makes sense to me. Weird the PC is getting overloaded though just from a ground on my side. But oh well. 2 days no problems. 

[mjr]

The FIX:

Wire 12v 5v and ground to the toys PSU. Wire the secondary 5v and ground to the PC PSU.

 

I'm really glad you found a solution!

 

If you have a chance, it might be really useful if you could post a "before and after" wiring diagram showing exactly what you had to change.  I still don't understand the root cause of the problem, but it might help if could see the full setup and what changed.  It would also be a great resource if anyone else runs into similar problems.

[Ciceronic]

Hello,

 

I need som electric design help.
I built a WS2811 (addressable LEDs) beacon that is placed on top of cabinet.
The beacon is flashing randomly, controlled by an Arduino Uno Sketch.

Next step is to make it turn on/off correctly to the pinball game.
I intend to do that by using a input pin at the Arduino.

My DOF output controller is a KL25Z/Pinscape.

Is it possible to wire directly from an output pin at KL25Z to an input pin at the Arduino?
Including ground of course.

Do I need any "security" like transistor/optocouplers etc?

 

I have also free "channels" at the Darlington 2803 if that would be a better place to connect..
If so, how do I hook that up?

[mjr]

Hello,

 

I need som electric design help.
I built a WS2811 (addressable LEDs) beacon that is placed on top of cabinet.
The beacon is flashing randomly, controlled by an Arduino Uno Sketch.

Next step is to make it turn on/off correctly to the pinball game.
I intend to do that by using a input pin at the Arduino.

My DOF output controller is a KL25Z/Pinscape.

Is it possible to wire directly from an output pin at KL25Z to an input pin at the Arduino?
Including ground of course.

Do I need any "security" like transistor/optocouplers etc?

 

I have also free "channels" at the Darlington 2803 if that would be a better place to connect..
If so, how do I hook that up?

 

It might be enough to connect a KL25Z output directly to an Arduino input.  I don't think there's any particular risk to either device going in that direction, but the main question is whether the logic voltage levels are compatible.  The KL25Z is a 3.3V device, and most of the Arduinos are 5V, so the KL25Z logic "high" on its GPIO is only going to be 3.3V, which might be a little low for the Arduino to read as a "high" input.  If you actually have a 3.3V Arduino (there are some of those out there), then it should just work. 

 

I think it should be safe to experiment with in either case.  The only risk of damage would be if you allowed the Arduino pin you're connecting to the KL25Z to actively generate a 5V logic "high" signal, since that would drive the attached KL25Z pin to 5V, which can damage the KL25Z.  Going the other direction, driving the Arduino input not quite high enough with the 3.3V, shouldn't pose any risk of damage in that direction.

 

If you want to play it really safe, an optocoupler would be a great way to connect the two.  Have the KL25Z output pin drive the optocoupler LED side.  Use a resistor that limits the current to about 2mA - the KL25Z output pins are very wimpy and can't go over 4mA, so it's best to keep it in the 1-2 mA range.  2mA should be enough to trigger a PC817 or similar opto.  Connect the opto Collector to 5V, connect the Emitter ("E") directly to the Arduino input, and also connect that through a 4.7K resistor to ground.

[stevied007]

Thanks for the response on the flipper pwm.

Im confident with soldering but I have little experience with CAD circuit board design, just some hand drawn stuff I did at school.

Some circuit board produces have certain limitations. Could you provide a few specifications on the boards.

For example one producer requires the has the following limitations:
* Minimum trace thickness: 6 mil
* Minimum spacing between traces: 6 mil
* Minimum hole size is: 12 mil
* Minimum annular ring: 8 mil
* Copper to board-edge clearance: 15 mil

We require the gerbers for each of the following layers:

* Top Silkscreen
* Top Soldermask
* Top Copper
* Bottom Copper
* Bottom Soldermask
* Bottom Silkscreen
* Board Outline

Please export the gerbers with units of "Inches" and with format of 2:4 or 2:5.  Also, it's important that you export with no zero-suppression (ie keeping both leading and trailing zeros).
The board outline should be a single continuous trace. The center of this line will be the edge of the board when it is manufactured.
We also require a file describing the drills in "Excellon" or "NC Drills" format.  Please export with units of "Inches" and with format of 2:4 or 2:5.   Also, it's important that you export with no zero-suppression (ie keeping both leading and trailing zeros).

Do these files comply? and can you provide some specs on the boards that may be required to determine if a manufacturer is suitable.

[mjr]

Some circuit board produces have certain limitations. Could you provide a few specifications on the boards.
For example one producer requires the has the following limitations:

 

Short answer: those limits look pretty standard and should be okay.

 

Longer answer: any manufacturer that you use should have two files you can download: a "Design Rules Check" file, ending in .DRU, and a "Computer Aided Manufacturing" file, ending in .CAM.   EAGLE uses those files, respectively, to automate the process of checking the board against the manufacturer's specs, and exporting the Gerbers in the required format.  So all of this manufacturer requirement stuff that you're grappling with should be 100% automated.  I'm not sure every single PCB manufacturer conforms with the EAGLE process, but I am sure that every single PCB maker that has any customers does.   EAGLE is just that ubiquitous.

 

What you need to do is find and download those two files (.DRU and .CAM) from the manufacturer of your choice.  You'll also need to get the free version of EAGLE, which will let you view the boards and run these automated processes.  You run the DRU process in the circuit board view:

 

On the menu, select Tools > DRC ("Design Rules Check" - they try to make this as user-unfriendly as possible!)

Click "Load..." in the dialog

Select the downloaded .DRU file from the PCB maker

Click "Check"

 

That should run through all of the manufacturer's tolerance rules and produce a report showing any violations.  Hopefully there won't be any.  If there are a small number, you can either check them yourself (many are self-explanatory), or if you can't make sense of them, you can send me the DRU and I can take a look.  If there are a large number of errors, you'll probably want to look for another manufacturer as this one will be too much work.

 

Once you're satisfied that the boards are compatible with your chosen vendor, generating the Gerbers is also an automated process.  You need the .CAM file from the manufacturer for this step. Again in the circuit board view:

 

On the menu, File > CAM Processor

In the dialog menu, File > Open > Job

Select the CAM file from the PCB maker

Click Process Job

[yagesz]

++@MJR.

 

I am so happy my machine is fixed and pinscape is working again.  Since install It seems in games I mainly get 2 colors. red and yellow. ONce in a while blue. THere are suppose to be SO many different colors but I dont see them. I am using a LED Kit from Zeb with predetermined voltage in and resistors that should be plug and play. In PinscapeConfigTool I can generate any color I want. Any idea why in a game I would be off in colors? I have Grand UNIFIED+++ But no difference. I am plugged into the "FLASHER" posts on the MAIN Board. Not the power board.

 

Xagesz

PS. Magna Saves, Flippers, and Underglow all come out with all sorts of colors plugged into the SmallLED posts on the Main Board.

[mjr]

Since install It seems in games I mainly get 2 colors. red and yellow. ONce in a while blue. THere are suppose to be SO many different colors but I dont see them. I am using a LED Kit from Zeb with predetermined voltage in and resistors that should be plug and play. In PinscapeConfigTool I can generate any color I want. Any idea why in a game I would be off in colors? I have Grand UNIFIED+++ But no difference. I am plugged into the "FLASHER" posts on the MAIN Board. Not the power board.

 

If you can get good color results using the config tool, that at least narrows it down to a software problem, not a hardware problem.  And it seems like the only software that could be causing it is DOF.  Have you tried it with the older DOF version on my site (the one labeled "Oct 2016")?  I doubt that will make any difference, but it might be good to try the older version to rule out any compatibility issues with the newer version.

 

Do you have a pointer to the product page for the Zeb's LED kit you're using?  I'm not sure how that works - I can take a look to see if there's anything obvious that might be causing an incompatibility there.  If it's just LEDs and resistors, I can't imagine there's any sort of problem, but if it has any active logic component (amplifiers or boosters or anything like that), there might be some compatibility issue there.

[yagesz]

Since install It seems in games I mainly get 2 colors. red and yellow. ONce in a while blue. THere are suppose to be SO many different colors but I dont see them. I am using a LED Kit from Zeb with predetermined voltage in and resistors that should be plug and play. In PinscapeConfigTool I can generate any color I want. Any idea why in a game I would be off in colors? I have Grand UNIFIED+++ But no difference. I am plugged into the "FLASHER" posts on the MAIN Board. Not the power board.

 
If you can get good color results using the config tool, that at least narrows it down to a software problem, not a hardware problem.  And it seems like the only software that could be causing it is DOF.  Have you tried it with the older DOF version on my site (the one labeled "Oct 2016")?  I doubt that will make any difference, but it might be good to try the older version to rule out any compatibility issues with the newer version.
 
Do you have a pointer to the product page for the Zeb's LED kit you're using?  I'm not sure how that works - I can take a look to see if there's anything obvious that might be causing an incompatibility there.  If it's just LEDs and resistors, I can't imagine there's any sort of problem, but if it has any active logic component (amplifiers or boosters or anything like that), there might be some compatibility issue there.

It’s just a small PCB with 15 resistors to control LEDs and they go to Star LEDs all that’s required is a 3.3 V in I messaged Zeb as well. But I’ve never gotten multiple colors it’s always been read and yellows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mjr]

 

 

Since install It seems in games I mainly get 2 colors. red and yellow. ONce in a while blue. THere are suppose to be SO many different colors but I dont see them. I am using a LED Kit from Zeb with predetermined voltage in and resistors that should be plug and play. In PinscapeConfigTool I can generate any color I want. Any idea why in a game I would be off in colors? I have Grand UNIFIED+++ But no difference. I am plugged into the "FLASHER" posts on the MAIN Board. Not the power board.

 
If you can get good color results using the config tool, that at least narrows it down to a software problem, not a hardware problem.  And it seems like the only software that could be causing it is DOF.  Have you tried it with the older DOF version on my site (the one labeled "Oct 2016")?  I doubt that will make any difference, but it might be good to try the older version to rule out any compatibility issues with the newer version.
 
Do you have a pointer to the product page for the Zeb's LED kit you're using?  I'm not sure how that works - I can take a look to see if there's anything obvious that might be causing an incompatibility there.  If it's just LEDs and resistors, I can't imagine there's any sort of problem, but if it has any active logic component (amplifiers or boosters or anything like that), there might be some compatibility issue there.

It’s just a small PCB with 15 resistors to control LEDs and they go to Star LEDs all that’s required is a 3.3 V in I messaged Zeb as well. But I’ve never gotten multiple colors it’s always been read and yellows.

 

Yeah, there should definitely be no compatibility problems if it's just resistors and LEDs.

 

Where are you getting the 3.3V from?  If you're taking it from the KL25Z or anything going through USB power, the problem might be that you're overloading the USB power.  USB2 can only supply 500mA, and those star LEDs take 350mA per color channel - so if you turn on two at once you'll overload the USB power.  USB3 has higher limits - 900mA, but that only bumps the overload point up to three channels at once.

 

If you're getting the 3.3V by regulating the 5V red wire from your ATX PSU down to 3.3V, the same issue could apply if you're exceeding the limits of your regulator.  If it's one of those little TO220-style regulators, those usually crap out at about 1A, which is only good for three color channels at once.  

 

If you're getting it directly from an orange 3.3V wire from your ATX PSU, I'd think that should have plenty of headroom for the LEDs, so it's probably not power limits in that case.  You might still want to see if you can the specs for your PSU to make sure, though.

But then again, if you can get arbitrary colors to show up on the star LEDs from the config tool, it's probably not a power/hardware issue at all, because if it were a hardware issue, it shouldn't matter which software you're using to turn on the lights.

[yagesz]

 

 

Since install It seems in games I mainly get 2 colors. red and yellow. ONce in a while blue. THere are suppose to be SO many different colors but I dont see them. I am using a LED Kit from Zeb with predetermined voltage in and resistors that should be plug and play. In PinscapeConfigTool I can generate any color I want. Any idea why in a game I would be off in colors? I have Grand UNIFIED+++ But no difference. I am plugged into the "FLASHER" posts on the MAIN Board. Not the power board.

 
If you can get good color results using the config tool, that at least narrows it down to a software problem, not a hardware problem.  And it seems like the only software that could be causing it is DOF.  Have you tried it with the older DOF version on my site (the one labeled "Oct 2016")?  I doubt that will make any difference, but it might be good to try the older version to rule out any compatibility issues with the newer version.
 
Do you have a pointer to the product page for the Zeb's LED kit you're using?  I'm not sure how that works - I can take a look to see if there's anything obvious that might be causing an incompatibility there.  If it's just LEDs and resistors, I can't imagine there's any sort of problem, but if it has any active logic component (amplifiers or boosters or anything like that), there might be some compatibility issue there.

It’s just a small PCB with 15 resistors to control LEDs and they go to Star LEDs all that’s required is a 3.3 V in I messaged Zeb as well. But I’ve never gotten multiple colors it’s always been read and yellows.

 
Yeah, there should definitely be no compatibility problems if it's just resistors and LEDs.
 
Where are you getting the 3.3V from?  If you're taking it from the KL25Z or anything going through USB power, the problem might be that you're overloading the USB power.  USB2 can only supply 500mA, and those star LEDs take 350mA per color channel - so if you turn on two at once you'll overload the USB power.  USB3 has higher limits - 900mA, but that only bumps the overload point up to three channels at once.
 
If you're getting the 3.3V by regulating the 5V red wire from your ATX PSU down to 3.3V, the same issue could apply if you're exceeding the limits of your regulator.  If it's one of those little TO220-style regulators, those usually crap out at about 1A, which is only good for three color channels at once.  
 
If you're getting it directly from an orange 3.3V wire from your ATX PSU, I'd think that should have plenty of headroom for the LEDs, so it's probably not power limits in that case.  You might still want to see if you can the specs for your PSU to make sure, though.

But then again, if you can get arbitrary colors to show up on the star LEDs from the config tool, it's probably not a power/hardware issue at all, because if it were a hardware issue, it shouldn't matter which software you're using to turn on the lights.

Psu is 750w atx pc. It can handle it lol so software somewhere hmm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mjr]

Psu is 750w atx pc. It can handle it lol so software somewhere hmm

 

Well, there are internal limits on these power supplies - you don't get 750W on 3.3V individually or 750W on 12V individually, you get a total of 750W when you add all of the rails together.  But even so, the 3.3V rail usually has a large fraction of the total, so that's probably not it, assuming you're connected directly to the 3.3V from the PSU and you're not going through some separate element that might be imposing a lower limit, like USB or an external voltage regulator.

 

Just to confirm that I'm understanding correctly:  if you run the Pinscape config with the exact same hardware setup, you can make your star LEDs light up in any color combination?  What happens if you turn all five of them on at 100% white?

[Ciceronic]

 

Hello,

 

I need som electric design help.
I built a WS2811 (addressable LEDs) beacon that is placed on top of cabinet.
The beacon is flashing randomly, controlled by an Arduino Uno Sketch.

Next step is to make it turn on/off correctly to the pinball game.
I intend to do that by using a input pin at the Arduino.

My DOF output controller is a KL25Z/Pinscape.

Is it possible to wire directly from an output pin at KL25Z to an input pin at the Arduino?
Including ground of course.

Do I need any "security" like transistor/optocouplers etc?

 

I have also free "channels" at the Darlington 2803 if that would be a better place to connect..
If so, how do I hook that up?

 

It might be enough to connect a KL25Z output directly to an Arduino input.  I don't think there's any particular risk to either device going in that direction, but the main question is whether the logic voltage levels are compatible.  The KL25Z is a 3.3V device, and most of the Arduinos are 5V, so the KL25Z logic "high" on its GPIO is only going to be 3.3V, which might be a little low for the Arduino to read as a "high" input.  If you actually have a 3.3V Arduino (there are some of those out there), then it should just work. 

 

I think it should be safe to experiment with in either case.  The only risk of damage would be if you allowed the Arduino pin you're connecting to the KL25Z to actively generate a 5V logic "high" signal, since that would drive the attached KL25Z pin to 5V, which can damage the KL25Z.  Going the other direction, driving the Arduino input not quite high enough with the 3.3V, shouldn't pose any risk of damage in that direction.

 

If you want to play it really safe, an optocoupler would be a great way to connect the two.  Have the KL25Z output pin drive the optocoupler LED side.  Use a resistor that limits the current to about 2mA - the KL25Z output pins are very wimpy and can't go over 4mA, so it's best to keep it in the 1-2 mA range.  2mA should be enough to trigger a PC817 or similar opto.  Connect the opto Collector to 5V, connect the Emitter ("E") directly to the Arduino input, and also connect that through a 4.7K resistor to ground.

 

 

Some feedback to this after experiments done.

I can confirm this this works!
I now have 1 single wire from KL25Z, Pin PTD2 to Arduino Uno PIN 2.
Voltage at high level is 3,3V and the Arduino seems pleased with that. No missed trigger, ghosting or any other side effects.

 

This means, with an Arduino you can program a whole sequence of things happening (LEDs, motors etc) triggered by only one digital output of KL25Z.

Great knowledge!

 

 

[mjr]

I can confirm this this works!

I now have 1 single wire from KL25Z, Pin PTD2 to Arduino Uno PIN 2.
Voltage at high level is 3,3V and the Arduino seems pleased with that. No missed trigger, ghosting or any other side effects.

 

This means, with an Arduino you can program a whole sequence of things happening (LEDs, motors etc) triggered by only one digital output of KL25Z.

Great knowledge!

 

That's great!  That's a nice option to have available if you want some more complex effects.