99 replies to this topic

[Nemo]

Ohlala, that's nice man ! Love the arm, neat and extremely functional ! How do you like the contactor's "thumb" ?

I see you'have them screwed directly onto the cab's sides and such. So much great progress, bet you can't wait ....

[sc204]

They seem to feel fine on the cabinet walls and bottom for the center bumper.  Not sure I can feel the difference between the two so I think positioning is OK.

[Nemo]

Well your project is a bit of a inspiration to me, maybe this is the year i go DOF, looking forward to have

some more toys installed 

 

Still it will cost me an arm and a leg.....

[sc204]

I have a few things left before I start sanding and painting the cabinet.  First on the list is providing power to the game.

 

 Power 1.jpg   67.34KB   10 downloads

I bought a small project box which will house my main power switch.  it will be installed in the usual place front right bottom.  In it will be a 120 volt rocker switch for main power and a momentary push button switch that will connect to the computer motherboard's on switch.  

 

 Power 2.jpg   78.45KB   10 downloads

 

 Power 3.jpg   63.69KB   10 downloads

Switch box mounted inside.

 

 Power 4.jpg   58.89KB   10 downloads

To bring power into the game I sort of copied what would be on a real Pin.  I made a ply housing that will hold the plug socket.  it will be attached to the rear inside of the game.

 

 Power 5.jpg   60.47KB   10 downloads

 

 Power 6.jpg   84.83KB   9 downloads

Needs paint but found a cheap outlet cover on Ebay.

 

 Power 7.jpg   68.38KB   10 downloads

 

The wire will run from the socket to the switch box.  An outlet strip will then be wired into the switch.

Edited by sc204, 03 February 2015 - 04:51 AM.

[bitupset]

tell me you live in so.cal somewhere so i can come over and drink beers and play pinball in your entertainment room!

[sc204]

tell me you live in so.cal somewhere so i can come over and drink beers and play pinball in your entertainment room!

 

Just a quick drive over to my place in NY

[sc204]

Power wiring is pretty much done.  The Bose speaker, power, playfield TV and USB hub will plug into the strip in the cabinet  as well as a second strip that will be mounted on the computer tray.  Both power supplies and both back box monitors will plug into that one.  The 2 yellow wires from the front of the junction box connect to the momentary switch and will be attached to the on button of the computer. To start you will just flip the power switch followed by the computer start button.  Once the computer is shut down from the Pinball X front end then just shut off the power switch.  I was going to use a power strip that has a master control of the other outlets but the computer power supply must consume enough electricity at rest because the other items would not routinely shut off when the computer was shut down.

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  power 8.jpg   92.11KB   11 downloads
•  Power 9.jpg   77.85KB   9 downloads

[sc204]

I started playing with the graphics file a bit.  I plan to use Stuzza's MultiBall collage in blue.  I played around with one of the side images a bit.  Moved a few elements around, and most importantly thinned out Rod Serling. 

Also removed the swoosh.  To see if the size was right and to see if anything needed fixing I printed out the side on paper.  A few adjustments need to be made but overall I think it will work out well.

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  test side 1.jpg   165.01KB   8 downloads

[sc204]

I made up the speaker cutout grills.  I purchased some perforated aluminum sheet on Ebay.  1/8" holes.  in a staggered pattern.  Cut them to fit with a 4" angle grinder.

 

 Speaker grills.jpg   116.89KB   11 downloads

 

 speaker grill 2.jpg   99.74KB   10 downloads

 

I am continuing to play with the graphics.  Some minor tweaking of the images and the surrounding fade.  Also switched to a default color filter in Photoshop.  A little less blue.   This is the 4th full size sheet that I made up and I think it is final

Still have to work on the front piece and put it in place to know for sure.

 

 Side version 4.jpg   160.17KB   10 downloads

Edited by sc204, 10 February 2015 - 02:06 AM.

[randr]

Don't forget to add diodes to coils... Looking great

[zany]

This is one perfect build...one of the better, maybe the best to be honest....very well done!!!

[LoadedWeapon]

Looks great! I have had my cab a few years and it's still black lol

[nebrunner]

Forget the cabinet, how about that lift it is sitting on!!!

[sc204]

Just a slightly modified hydraulic lift table from Harbor Freight.   I think this is the 500 pound version.

 

And I appreciate the positive comments.

 

Stuart 

[Carny_Priest]

It is a masterful build, but yes, tell me more about the lift table. My wife is in a wheelchair, and she can't really enjoy the virtual table with standard length legs. Would be nice to be able to lower it for her.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[sc204]

Like many I purchased the Harbor Freight lift table to move my regular pinball machines around.  It requires a modification to the handle to get it out of the way.  In my case I just turned it around so it folds away from the base instead of over it.  It will hold the cabinet at any height.  But since the handle would stick out the front you would probably need to lift the game from behind so it would need to be away from a rear wall by a couple of feet, but it certainly could do what you are looking for.  Not sure I would want to play the game too roughly while supported from the bottom.  Especially if you used a real pinball cabinet.  The bottoms were usually press board and truthfully it is a wonder that they hold up to pinball lifts as well as they do. 

[Carny_Priest]

Looks from the picture that the table provides support at least to the sides of the cabinet. At least it is not supporting only from the middle where it would not be very stable at all. Or worse, that the weight of the cabinet would just cause it to cave in around the table top.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[sc204]

Provides support through the sides only when of center as in the pic.  When centered it just lifts through the bottom board.   Of course the right sized piece of 3/4" ply as a top for the lift can fix that.

[jorro666]

great build! respect!

[sc204]

Things are progressing a little slow right now.  I finished prepping parts for paint.  Sanding and filling where needed.  I also cut out the "speaker" / Air hole on the bottom of the cabinet.  a 9" diameter hole.  A 10" simple speaker grill will be fit on the inside of the cabinet.  It might look better on the outside under the cabinet but then I wouldn't be able to use the lift table under the pin.  As others have found a circle cutter attached to a plunge router does a nice job of cutting circles.  I used the Jasper circle guide, and finally rounded over the outside edge with the router.  I also broke all of the sharp edges on the cabinet with a 45 degree chamfer bit on a small laminate trimmer type router.  I will trim the cabinet decals just short of the corners to try to prevent catching and lifting them. 

Paint for me is a slow process, I am sure I over do things.  (especially since most of the cabinet will be covered with vinyl)  But I like to try to eliminate stuff like the end grain of the plywood showing on the back box edges.  The bottom of the cabinet both inside and out will be clear coated as will the computer shelf.  The rest will be painted satin black.  I decided to spray the clear coat over all the wooden parts and MDF speaker panel to seal them.  This will be followed by sanding and filling any more imperfections that I can see  followed by primer and then color. 

I made a make shift spray booth in my basement with plastic sheeting.  Right now I have the backbox, shelf, and doors cleared.  The cabinet just got the first coat on the sides and bottom.

Attached Files

•  speaker cutout.jpg   107.06KB   8 downloads
•  paint booth.jpg   124.89KB   6 downloads
•  cabinet.jpg   121.61KB   8 downloads

Edited by sc204, 16 February 2015 - 04:07 PM.