734 replies to this topic

[javier1515]

ok, next week I will buy one of these and will comment the result.

[slashbot]

Can someone please post some videos when nudge from a game and the accelerometer test table so i can see the behavior of the device before i buy one?

Thnx in advance


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[mjr]

Can someone please post some videos when nudge from a game and the accelerometer test table so i can see the behavior of the device before i buy one?

 

Post #17 of this thread has my video of the nudging in action on a zero-slope table.  That's probably the most direct illustration of the results, since nudging is the only force at work.

[parabolic]

Where can I order this ccd sensor from? Ive been searching "taos tsl 1410r" with no results....thanks! And thanks for the awesome work!!

[mjr]

I got mine from mouser.com:

 

TAOS CCD sensor:

http://www.mouser.co...bI%2bt5pzd0PXI=

 

Freescale Microcontroller board:

http://www.mouser.co...FratDaJVW2nplde

 

The CCD isn't necessary for the nudging - that's only for the plunger.  The Freescale board is the only part needed for the nudging.  (Note that you'll also need the right USB cable for the Freescale - it needs a USB-A to Mini-B cable.)

 

I'm in the process of writing up documentation for how to build the whole project, which will have a complete parts list.  The two components above are *almost* all you need, but there are some optional components for extra features, so if you don't mind waiting a few days you might want to check to see if there's anything else you want to order at the same time to save shipping costs.

[parabolic]

Thanks for all the supportive comments!

 

I got sidetracked for a couple of days tracking down some issues with the low-level USB code in the mbed library (mbed is the development platform I'm using for the microcontroller software).  I managed to fix the problems, so I'm back to working on the pinball aspects of the code again.

 

I tried wiring up a set of 5 small blue LEDs (the standard through-hole 20mA type) as the new light source for the plunger sensor, thinking that they're so tiny that I'd need a whole bunch to get enough light.  The sensor surprised me yet again with its amazing night vision powers.  5 of the LEDs is too much light.  It looks like 2 is the magic number, at about 8" away.

 

Nudge handling is still in progress.  I've come up with an algorithm that looks promising, but it'll take a couple of days to implement and test.  If I can get it working well enough I'll post another video of that.  Plus, that should just about wrap up the project, so I'll get to work writing up documentation at that point.

I was wondering what about some EL tape - white or blue in color closer to the plunger for a more compact unit? EL tape seems pretty evenly lit and if the sensor picks up low light would that be an option? 

BTW - I located the sensor - now Ill just need the wiring diagram between the sensor and the controller

[parabolic]

The CCD isn't necessary for the nudging - that's only for the plunger.  The Freescale board is the only part needed for the nudging.  (Note that you'll also need the right USB cable for the Freescale - it needs a USB-A to Mini-B cable.)

 

I'm in the process of writing up documentation for how to build the whole project, which will have a complete parts list.  The two components above are *almost* all you need, but there are some optional components for extra features, so if you don't mind waiting a few days you might want to check to see if there's anything else you want to order at the same time to save shipping costs.

Actually I was looking at this solution FOR the plunger - the nudging is just a great bonus for me! Im glad to read that it works exceptionally well from the guys who had other forms of nudging already.

Waiting a few more days is no issue - I already set up my MOUSER cart with the first 2 items - ill just patiently wait for the update - THANKS!!

[mjr]

I was wondering what about some EL tape - white or blue in color closer to the plunger for a more compact unit? EL tape seems pretty evenly lit and if the sensor picks up low light would that be an option? 

BTW - I located the sensor - now Ill just need the wiring diagram between the sensor and the controller

 

The EL tape could certainly be worth a try.  The sensor seems more tolerant of too little light than too much light, though, so the tape close up might overexpose it.  If you can adjust the brightness, there's a good chance you'll be able to get it working with a little experimentation for the right brightness level.  

 

I settled on two 20mA blue LEDs about 8 inches away.  One thing about the tape is that I think the distance and small point source with the LED setup is actually helpful for edge recognition - it makes for a sharp shadow.  With the tape I'd be concerned that the light is too diffuse and omnidirectional.  It would be very cool to have the whole thing be self-contained, though, so if you have the material lying around, definitely give it a try and see if you can get a good signal.  You'll be able to tell right away - if the software can read an edge, the plunger on-screen will track, otherwise it'll just sit there.  If it works the whole thing could go inside a little box.

 

If you want a jump start on the wiring, it's basically the serial mode schematic as shown in the data sheet for the sensor.  (I'll replicate that in my write-up so you don't have to hunt down the reference.)  Several of the contacts simply need to be wired together, as shown.  This leaves you with 5 wires that go externally.  The Vdd goes to the P3V3 output on the KL25Z (jumper 9 pin 4), the ground goes to the KL25Z ground (J9 pin 14), SI1 goes to PTE20 (J10  pin 1), SO to PTB0 (J10 pin 2), and CLK to PTE21 (J10 pin 3).  I put a 5-pin pluggable connector between the two so that I could take one or the other out independently.

 

The external parts I mentioned, to give you a general idea of whether or not it's worth waiting, are:  parts for driving LedWiz-style outputs if you want to use that feature; parts for an optional lighted calibration button, which is nice to have, but I'm going to write a little Windows program that lets you trigger calibration mode from Windows instead; and various plugs and connectors.  If you just want to set up the plunger/nudge (no extra LedWiz outputs), and you don't care about a hardware calibration button, the sensor and KL25Z are the whole parts list.  (And you can use any momentary switch for the calibration button, too - the one on my shopping list has an integrated LED that provides feedback, but it's really just a bonus shiny feature.)

Edited by mjr, 10 August 2014 - 11:51 PM.

[jkimbrell]

Here's a video of the freescape board in action.  Sorry the lighting kind of sucks.  I'm using a gopro cam and it's really more for outdoors in full sun.  It took so long to upload on my crappy internet connection that I may as well post it.  I'll try to pickup a tripod for my other cam and post a better video this week.

 

http://youtu.be/2Kzich-YSmc

 

Thanks again to mjr for this.

Edited by jkimbrell, 11 August 2014 - 12:56 AM.

[jkimbrell]

the KL25Z can allow for extra LEDwiz style outputs?

[mjr]

the KL25Z can allow for extra LEDwiz style outputs?

 

Yep - a little bonus feature.  I needed a few extra ports (my real LedWiz is fully populated), so I set up the controller software to pass itself off as an LedWiz on the USB port and parse the protocol.  That's still an experimental feature, but I've done a little testing and plan to deploy it in my cabinet soon.  The output ports on the KL25Z are far wimpier than the LedWiz ports - they can only handle 4mA - so they absolutely require external driver hardware.  I'm building a reference circuit with an optocoupler and a MOSFET per output to drive high-current devices - the schematic will be in my documentation, spec'd with part numbers..  You could also use a small NPN transistor to drive a relay, but I don't see any benefit to that in either cost or build complexity, and the performance is much better with the MOSFET (with one exception:a relay could control an AC device).  

 

For a few extra outputs, it'll be a nice bonus.  If I needed many more outputs, it would be too much trouble to build all the driver circuits - I'd just buy another LedWiz.

[jkimbrell]

hmmm.... interesting information as I am also out of outputs on my LEDwiz!  Let us know how it goes!

you could get several KL25Z units for the cost of one LEDwiz....... 

well, I checked the specs for the relay boards I've been using and even they require 15-20mA driver current.  Probably is too much of a pain to ever be a suitable replacement for LEDwiz.

[mjr]

hmmm.... interesting information as I am also out of outputs on my LEDwiz!  Let us know how it goes!

you could get several KL25Z units for the cost of one LEDwiz....... 

well, I checked the specs for the relay boards I've been using and even they require 15-20mA driver current.  Probably is too much of a pain to ever be a suitable replacement for LEDwiz.

 

I'll provides updates when I get the outputs built.

 

This definitely isn't going to be a replacement for real LedWiz's.  That's a packaged product that's ready to go out of the box, and this is a DIY project.  I'm building it partly (maybe primarily ) as a learning project, so I definitely wouldn't find it worth the time on its own merits as an alternative to an LedWiz.

 

I don't think there's any sort of off-the-shelf port driver solution - I think all of the packaged options, like the relay boards, use an optocoupler as a first-stage driver, and those are going to require at least 10mA.  But it's easy to design a transistor circuit that'll run on 1mA or less on the input side.  My reference circuit right now uses a transistor to drive an opto to drive a MOSFET, so it's about 6 parts per output counting the resistors.  (These parts are cheap - about $2 per output.  And MOSFET outputs are fantastic - the MOSFET I'm spec'ing right now will drive 20 A.)  I think I could also build the whole thing with just one resistor and one MOSFET per output, but I'm not sure I like that arrangement because it doesn't put as much of a firewall between the KL25Z/PC and the high-current/high-voltage devices.  Optos are great little voltage firewalls.  So I'll probably stick with the more complex layout for the extra protection it offers.

[gtxjoe]

You should be able to drive the rgb mini amps (draw .1 mAmp) with the ledwiz like ports if desired

[mjr]

You should be able to drive the rgb mini amps (draw .1 mAmp) with the ledwiz like ports if desired

 

That's an interesting idea.  The devices I want to add are inductive, so they'll probably need a bigger boost, but that could be workable for LEDs or lamps.

[toxie]

the code is now incorporated into the VP10 development (which will also include physmod later-on).

 

maybe at some point we could think about making a 9.9.1 release or so, that also has this patch.

[J3SteR]

the code is now incorporated into the VP10 development (which will also include physmod later-on).
 
maybe at some point we could think about making a 9.9.1 release or so, that also has this patch.

Very cool to hear. If you think vp10 won't be out for a long while, definitely should do a vp 9.9.1!

[mjr]

I've posted a first draft of the how-to guide for building this:

 

http://mbed.org/medi..._controller.pdf

 

(This is also linked from the mbed project page at http://mbed.org/medi..._controller.pdf.)

Edited by mjr, 14 August 2014 - 08:33 PM.

[J3SteR]

Just ordered a Freescale board! Thanks again mjr!

[goesta]

Outstanding work with the documentation!!! Joy to read!

Is there a way to compile the Physic5 version for the board?