I've updated the main project repository with the working USB library, so you should be able to update to the latest published version on the main branch now (http://mbed.org/user...ape_Controller/). The _v1 branch is also updated to the final working version with some cosmetic changes merged from the main branch, so both branches should now be in sync.
I'll keep the _v1 branch around to allow reverting to the stable version more easily as I continue working on updates to the main version.
Thanks a lot for the support and the time you spent.
Did you keep the reverse CDD fix in the last build ?
Yes - that change should be in the latest versions on both branches (the main branch and the _v1 fork).
The new version looks good in connecting! Good Job!
Really glad to hear that! I think this means that the new version is working for everyone who reported USB problems. If I've forgotten any reports or anyone else is still having problems with the USB connection, let me know.
Question: for those who installed the KLZ also as nudging device :
i'm having problems with the KLZ working together with the mechanical action/firing of the solenoids.
When the sensitivity in VP is good for nudging the ball will flow around when the popbumpers or other solenoids are being fired and when I lower down the sensitivity nudging won't work anymore.....
Do you experience this as well and if so, were you able to solve this? (and how??)
I haven't ever had problem with that, so it's definitely not the "normal" behavior. Whatever's causing it should be fixable. It's hard to know what the problem is without being able to come over and look at your machine (which is impractical given that we're on different continents!). But I can give you a couple of ideas for things to look at.
1. The most obvious possibility is that your "gain" settings in VP are too high, making VP hypersensitive. So the first thing to try is to turn down the VP gain settings. As you say, that'll also reduce the effect from intentional nudges, but hopefully you can find a happy medium.
I've found from talking to people on the forums that different people have different expectations for what "realistic" nudging looks like. It's possible that your preference is for much more sensitive nudging than I like, so that could explain why you haven't been able to find that happy medium so far. When you're testing your settings, do you feel like the nudges you're applying are comparable in force to the cabinet vibration from the solenoids? If so, that might be the problem - if you want your manual nudges to register when they're the same size as solenoid vibration, then the solenoid vibration is necessarily going to register too.
If you haven't played with a real machine in a while, it might be worth finding one somewhere and playing around with it a bit to calibrate your sense of the real physics. I've found that VP and other video pinball games really mess with that because they tend to exaggerate, and not just a little. E.g., if you fire up one of the Farsight tables on an iPad and tap the nudge control, the ball jumps halfway up the playfield. In contrast, if you load the ball onto the plunger on a real machine and start nudging the cabinet, it's amazing how hard you have to shove it before the ball even budges.
So it's actually more realistic to go for a less-is-more approach to the virtual nudging. But I don't want to suggest that you have to settle for dead and unresponsive to get decent stability. There should be a range where it's responsive, even a bit exaggerated if you want, but not so hyper-sensitive as you've been seeing.
2. The second most likely thing is that your KL25Z isn't nailed down securely enough inside the cabinet. Assuming you have a roughly standard cabinet, and it's on good sturdy legs, the sheer inertia of the cabinet should be enough to damp out a lot of the background vibration and jolts from the solenoids. You should make sure that your KL25Z is attached really firmly so that it can't vibrate or wobble around inside the cab. It shouldn't move at all if you wiggle the USB wires, for example.
3. It's possible, though unlikely, that you're having some kind of electrical interference. I doubt this is it, since the KL25Z overall seems really well isolated and pretty much immune to power spikes. But hopefully all of your solenoids and motors are protected by flyback diodes.