Simply download the Config tool.
This tool is really well done and very easy to use. The most things go automatically
Posted 29 January 2018 - 09:26 AM
Edited by marc9, 29 January 2018 - 09:27 AM.
Posted 29 January 2018 - 10:26 AM
Edited by tofke, 29 January 2018 - 11:04 AM.
Posted 29 January 2018 - 10:49 AM
Thank you for the replies.
The instructions shown in the link state to download the Config Tool, unzip it, then run the PinscapeConfigTool.exe file. The screen shot of the Main Menu shows a picture of the KL25Z in it.
http://mjrnet.org/pi.../swversions.php
I’ve seen the youtube video before. It starts out showing what appears to be holding down a button switch while plugging the USB cable into the PC. But it doesn’t show that in the Pinscape instructions mentioned above. It’s also very difficult to read the file names that are being clicked on so I don’t know for sure what is being done. Half way through the video they then show the screen shot with the KL25Z as shown in the Pinscape link.
Do I start out by running the PinscapeConfigTool?
Or do I have to do all the preliminary steps shown in the youtube video?
I just don’t want to brick the new board by doing something wrong.
Edited by Brer Frog, 29 January 2018 - 10:51 AM.
Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:57 PM
Do I start out by running the PinscapeConfigTool?
Or do I have to do all the preliminary steps shown in the youtube video?
The config tool setup procedure runs through all of the exact same steps, so you can use the video or the on-screen instructions in the config tool, whichever you find easier to follow.
If you bought your KL25Z recently, you probably won't even have to go through the "boot loader update" procedure. People who have bought the boards recently found that they're installing the newer boot loader at the factory now. You can tell as follows:
- Plug in a USB cable to your KL25Z, in the port labeled "OpenSDA" on the back of the KL25Z
- Plug the other end into the PC
- Check what shows up in the Windows desktop. If it adds a thumb disk labeled "FRDM-KL25Z" (that exact label text) you have the new boot loader already installed and can skip the boot loader update. If the disk title is something else, like "BOOTLOADER", you have the old boot loader and need to go through the update procedure.
- Now run the config tool. Click the button "Set up a new KL25Z".
- If you determined above that you have the NEW boot loader ("FRDM-KL25Z" as the disk title), click SKIP THIS STEP. This will take you directly to the Pinscape firmware install.
- If you have the OLD boot loader ("BOOTLOADER" or simliar), click START. Follow the on-screen instructions. After that's done, you'll get to the Pinscape firmware install.
- Hopefully it'll be self-explanatory at that point.
Posted 30 January 2018 - 10:08 AM
I looked again at that hardware bug fix code I mentioned, and it turns out it doesn't set a maximum clock speed after all, so I've increased it further to 2 kHz. I just released a regular update with that change. That's in the base code now so it'll stick around in future updates as well.
I just want to give a short feedback about the new 2kHz PWM Frequency in your standard firmware.
Now it is absolutely great! No flicker anymore! My Undercablighting is very still and smooth now - like a normal light bulb.
Thank you!
Posted 30 January 2018 - 11:36 AM
I downloaded the PinscapeConfigTool.zip and Pinscape_Controller_KL25Z.bin from this link.
http://mjrnet.org/pi.../swversions.php
I ran the config tool & Step 1 was to select a firmware version to install. There were 2 options:
Either click on Pinscape Controller 2018-01-28-2015
Or
Browse for a file
I chose the first option because the date was the same as the .bin file that I downloaded.
Are the files the same, or should I have browsed & used the .bin that I downloaded?
Not sure if I was supposed to do anything with all those button assignments so I didn’t change anything. I haven’t wired any buttons yet.
Two things concern me.
1) The LED on the board keeps changing between green & yellow.
2) The video shows playing a table & testing the nudging. I tried that & nothing happens when I move the KL25Z board. I went into the table edit screen > Preferences > Keys, Nudge & DOF and clicked on Enable Analog Nudge and then Enable Nudge Filter but that made no difference.
I’m presuming something is not set properly. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thank you
Posted 30 January 2018 - 08:33 PM
Blinking lights: http://mjrnet.org/pi...id=statusLights
Nudge setup: http://mjrnet.org/pi...de.php?sid=tilt
Check the section in the second chapter there for "How to configure Visual Pinball for an accelerometer". Hopefully that will clear it up for you.
Posted 30 January 2018 - 09:44 PM
mjr-
Thank you.
The blinking lights are sort of correct for my setup. I have the "Long yellow/green lights" which indicate normal but the plunger has not been calibrated. However under "Plunger sensor setup" I did select None. Shouldn't that mean there is nothing to setup & therefore display "Long blue/green lights"?
The nudge test is OK. I did have the correct boxes checked in VP but probably did not close all the VP windows after changing the settings in order save & load them.
What is the correct way to update firmware? Click on the link within the PinscapeConfigTool or download the latest version & browse to it?
Thanks again,
Mike
Posted 30 January 2018 - 11:15 PM
The blinking lights are sort of correct for my setup. I have the "Long yellow/green lights" which indicate normal but the plunger has not been calibrated. However under "Plunger sensor setup" I did select None. Shouldn't that mean there is nothing to setup & therefore display "Long blue/green lights"?
Yes, that's the intention. I just looked at the code, and it actually only "forgives" the missing calibration if the plunger is "disabled", which is a separate setting that's not even accessible from the Config Tool. (It's an old setting from the days when there was only one plunger type; I never removed it from the firmware but didn't carry it forward into the new config tool either, since it's so redundant with "plunger type = none"). I'll fix that so it treats "plunger type = none" as equivalent to disabled for the purposes of the status lights.
The nudge test is OK. I did have the correct boxes checked in VP but probably did not close all the VP windows after changing the settings in order save & load them.
Great - I can't tell you how many times I've cursed VP after doing the same thing and spent far too long puzzling over why things weren't working.
What is the correct way to update firmware? Click on the link within the PinscapeConfigTool or download the latest version & browse to it?
The Config Tool automatically looks for an update each time you run it (assuming you don't turn that off - there's an option to do so on the front page in case you don't want it sneaking an Internet connection while no one's looking). So it should always offer the latest in that list without the need for manual downloads. The browse button is there mostly in case you want to install a copy that isn't in the automatic update list - e.g., you want to build your own private copy on mbed, or I send you a special testing copy, or something like that.
Posted 31 January 2018 - 07:14 PM
Hi mjr,
I can not calibrate my plunger (potentiometer) because z axis is crazy. Nudge, tilt and the other buttons work very well, I tried to calibrate with pinscape, dview, dtweak and windows calibration (Windows 10), but it does not work for the mech plunger (z axis), I tried to put the kl on another pc and it's the same problem, z axis is crazy, so I remove all the cables of the kl25z but it's the same, I reset the kl25z and remake a clean installation but z axis still shake, thank you for your help
Edited by tofke, 31 January 2018 - 07:21 PM.
Posted 31 January 2018 - 08:20 PM
I can not calibrate my plunger (potentiometer) because z axis is crazy.
[...] I tried to calibrate with pinscape, dview, dtweak and windows calibration (Windows 10), but it does not work for the mech plunger (z axis),
First off, never use any external calibration - that will screw everything up because it's designed for physical joysticks, not other devices that happen to look like virtual joysticks. See here:
http://mjrnet.org/pi...#doNotCalibrate
If deleting all of the external calibration data doesn't help, I suspect you have something wrong with your potentiometer wiring. The erratic behavior on the video makes it look to me like the GPIO port reading the pot input is getting random voltage readings, which suggests that it's not wired correctly. You might want to double-check your wiring against the instructions here:
http://mjrnet.org/pi...ide.php?sid=pot
Edited by mjr, 31 January 2018 - 08:21 PM.
Posted 31 January 2018 - 09:14 PM
thanks for reply mjr,
my mech plunger worked perfectly before and a week ago I had a power cut, windows has restarted with a repair menu and since I have this issue, even without the wires connected to the kl25z i have the same issue with z axis, do you think it's my kl25z that does not work properly, maybe damaged by the power cut ?
thanks again
Posted 31 January 2018 - 09:48 PM
my mech plunger worked perfectly before and a week ago I had a power cut, windows has restarted with a repair menu and since I have this issue, even without the wires connected to the kl25z i have the same issue with z axis, do you think it's my kl25z that does not work properly, maybe damaged by the power cut ?
Oh, interesting. Yeah, that sure does sound like something might have been damaged. It's a little surprising that you could have such an isolated problem with the KL25Z, though; I'd expect that a power surge that could do damage would take out the whole KL25Z, not just the ADC (the voltage sampler that reads the potentiometer). So maybe something else is going on.
If you have a multimeter, it might be worth testing the potentiometer itself to see if it's working properly. I wouldn't expect it to be damaged by a power outage or surge, since it doesn't contain any semiconductor parts, but maybe the problem is purely coincidental. Try putting the multimeter in resistance/Ohms mode, and hook it up the multimeter in each of the following configurations:
Configuration 1: Red lead to fixed end 1, black lead to center/wiper
Configuration 2: Red lead to fixed end 2, black lead to center/wiper
It should register a nice smooth change in resistance as you move the slide back and forth between close to 0 Ohms and close to 10K Ohms. If the pot looks good, the next thing to try is to try connecting the KL25Z GPIO pin where you're current connecting the pot wiper directly to KL25Z ground. You can find the KL25Z pin chart here:
http://mjrnet.org/pi...sid=kl25zPinOut
With the GPIO wired directly to ground, you should see a nice steady reading at one end of the plunger travel range in the on-screen plunger tester. If it's still jumping around erratically, then I think your theory about the power outage damage might be right. If it holds steady connected to ground, next try connecting the GPIO pin directly to the KL25Z +3.3V. The on-screen plunger should still be holding steady, but at the opposite end of the range. If both of those give you solid readings, the GPIO and ADC are probably okay, so it must be something else.
Let me know what you find.
without wires on the kl25z is the same issue in z axis pinscape calibration
That's actually exactly what should happen if no wires are connected. If the GPIO input isn't connected to anything, the voltage sampler will be reading random voltages, like static on a TV, so the on-screen reading will jump around erratically just like you're seeing.
Posted 31 January 2018 - 10:27 PM
thank you for the explanation, for now i am at work, i give a try when i ll back to home
here the shema i have followed https://ibb.co/jUyfUR (potentiometer mono for me)
thanks again !
Edited by tofke, 31 January 2018 - 10:35 PM.
Posted 02 February 2018 - 05:52 PM
Edited by tofke, 03 February 2018 - 12:49 AM.
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