1103 replies to this topic

[Fusionwerks]

Ok, but i still connect the PS2 to the power board and to the main board?

 

It just doesn't make sense to me what the 12/5 volts are for if i'm supplying voltage from an external source.

 

which leads me to another question... which header/s do the 2 boards communicate through? I guess i need to figure that out first. 

[mjr]

Ok, but i still connect the PS2 to the power board and to the main board?

 

Yes, those power connections are absolutely required.  The outputs won't function without them.

 

 

It just doesn't make sense to me what the 12/5 volts are for if i'm supplying voltage from an external source.

 

The main PSU 5V/GND power input provides power to most of the logic circuitry.

 

The PSU2 inputs provide power to the "output" side of the circuits, which is designed to be electrically isolated (via the optocouplers) from the logic side, to minimize the amount of electrical noise and spikes that get injected into the logic circuits from motors and solenoids and so on.  Since it's all electrically isolated, it can't get its power from the PSU power inputs.

 

But why does it need separate power when you're supplying +24V to the contactors?  A couple of reasons.  One is that different pieces need different voltages.  You can't run a 5V device on 24V.  The other is just the nature of the circuits.  The power coming in through the contactor connections goes through the drains of the MOSFETs.  The drains don't connect back to the power inputs of the other devices, so the other devices can't take their input power from there.  So even though you're plugging in +24V to the boards in some sense, it's not connected in a usable way to the places that need +5V and +12V power sources.  Which, like I said, is a good thing, because if you plugged +24V into those +5V or +12V devices, there would be blue smoke and a need to replace parts.

 

 

which leads me to another question... which header/s do the 2 boards communicate through? I guess i need to figure that out first. 

 

You're talking about the main board and power board, right?  Those are connected via a cable from JP6 "PWM OUT" on the main board to JP2 "PWM IN" on the power board.

[Bahm]

Hey dear Mr. mjr.
Tried to send you a pm but that's not possible because maybe your inbox is full.

Would it be possible to send parts to Germany? Because I need that acrylic part, the circuit board and the printed scale.
To let this thing make is expensive over here and there are also measurements missing and problems because of metric system.
Would be pleasure for me,
Thanks for reading, Bahm

[mjr]

Hey dear Mr. mjr.
Tried to send you a pm but that's not possible because maybe your inbox is full.

Would it be possible to send parts to Germany? Because I need that acrylic part, the circuit board and the printed scale.
To let this thing make is expensive over here and there are also measurements missing and problems because of metric system.

 

Hi Bahm.  Really sorry, but I only ship within the US.  Maybe you can find some other people in Germany or nearby in Europe to place some group orders for the various parts?  

 

All of the STL files are designed for millimeter (mm) units.  (It's an annoying shortcoming of the STL format that it doesn't have any way to specify units as part of the file, but I use it for the published files because it seems to be the universally standard for the 3D print services.)

[Bahm]

 

 

 

Hi Bahm.  Really sorry, but I only ship within the US.  Maybe you can find some other people in Germany or nearby in Europe to place some group orders for the various parts?  

 

All of the STL files are designed for millimeter (mm) units.  (It's an annoying shortcoming of the STL format that it doesn't have any way to specify units as part of the file, but I use it for the published files because it seems to be the universally standard for the 3D print services.)

 

OK, thanks for your answer, I had read that in your tutorial before but thought maybe there is a way because other than shipping costs, it's the same thing to do.

I don't know about other people which are interested here and in german forums there are not a lot posts about virtual pins.

So I will buy a ready plunger maybe or just stay with the button because diy makes no sense for me when it's the same price as a ready kit or more.

 

But thanks for reading anyway and thanks for making this guide.

Bahm

Edited by Bahm, 30 September 2017 - 09:41 PM.

[mjr]

 

 

 

 

Hi Bahm.  Really sorry, but I only ship within the US.  Maybe you can find some other people in Germany or nearby in Europe to place some group orders for the various parts?  

 

All of the STL files are designed for millimeter (mm) units.  (It's an annoying shortcoming of the STL format that it doesn't have any way to specify units as part of the file, but I use it for the published files because it seems to be the universally standard for the 3D print services.)

 

 

OK, thanks for your answer, I had read that in your tutorial before but thought maybe there is a way because other than shipping costs, it's the same thing to do.

I don't know about other people which are interested here and in german forums there are not a lot posts about virtual pins.

So I will buy a ready plunger maybe or just stay with the button because diy makes no sense for me when it's the same price as a ready kit or more.

 

You can always take a look at the potentiometer plunger.   It's analog electronics, so it's not quite as precise, but everyone who's built one says it works well.  And it's very cheap and easy to set up.

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi...ide.php?sid=pot

 

Good luck with the project!

[Fusionwerks]

i got most everything wired up in a temporary "cabinet" this weekend and everything seems to work. now im back to shopping for a few remaining items and wonding if someone can help me.

Topper beacons and strobes...

 

Strobes: Does the controller board or dof software control the strobe? Meaning does it actually pulse the voltage to make it strobe or do i need to buy lights with a strobe function already built in?

 

Beacon: Im looking at this one because i cant decide between red and blue, but i want it to rotate.. or at least give the illusion that it is. If i were to figure out how to only set it to rotate, this should work right?

LINK

 

And here is the YouTube video of it in amber. What do you guys think?

LINK

Edited by Fusionwerks, 02 October 2017 - 05:51 PM.

[mjr]

i got most everything wired up in a temporary "cabinet" this weekend and everything seems to work. 

 

That's great!

 

 

Strobes: Does the controller board or dof software control the strobe? Meaning does it actually pulse the voltage to make it strobe or do i need to buy lights with a strobe function already built in?

 

You can do it either way, but I think it's better to let DOF control it.  Most of the eBay truck strobe lights come with little control boxes that have one or two flashing patterns, but you can just cut those off and wire the lights directly to 12V instead.  In the old days (before DOF was the standard), most people left the control boxes on.  But with DOF, it's better to remove the control box and let DOF control the timing, because that gives it more control over the exact timing, for a wider variety of effects.

 

 

Beacon: Im looking at this one because i cant decide between red and blue, but i want it to rotate.. or at least give the illusion that it is. If i were to figure out how to only set it to rotate, this should work right?

 

Yeah, that looks like a good way to get fill your red+blue requirement.  That particular model looks like it doesn't physically rotate - looks like it just flashes the individual LEDs inside in a pattern that simulates rotation.  But it should create the effect you want.  I'd guess that the second button on the power plug controls whether it's in "strobe" or "rotate" mode, so you could just leave set permanently to "rotate" for your setup.

[Fusionwerks]

 

i got most everything wired up in a temporary "cabinet" this weekend and everything seems to work. 

 

That's great!

 

 

Strobes: Does the controller board or dof software control the strobe? Meaning does it actually pulse the voltage to make it strobe or do i need to buy lights with a strobe function already built in?

 

You can do it either way, but I think it's better to let DOF control it.  Most of the eBay truck strobe lights come with little control boxes that have one or two flashing patterns, but you can just cut those off and wire the lights directly to 12V instead.  In the old days (before DOF was the standard), most people left the control boxes on.  But with DOF, it's better to remove the control box and let DOF control the timing, because that gives it more control over the exact timing, for a wider variety of effects.

 

 

Beacon: Im looking at this one because i cant decide between red and blue, but i want it to rotate.. or at least give the illusion that it is. If i were to figure out how to only set it to rotate, this should work right?

 

Yeah, that looks like a good way to get fill your red+blue requirement.  That particular model looks like it doesn't physically rotate - looks like it just flashes the individual LEDs inside in a pattern that simulates rotation.  But it should create the effect you want.  I'd guess that the second button on the power plug controls whether it's in "strobe" or "rotate" mode, so you could just leave set permanently to "rotate" for your setup.

 

i kind of like that it doesn't actually rotate. I planned to take it apart and see if i could figure out how it senses the different effects and internally keep it in rotate mode. You never know, maybe i'm starting a trend... 

[mjr]

i kind of like that it doesn't actually rotate. I planned to take it apart and see if i could figure out how it senses the different effects and internally keep it in rotate mode. 

 

I actually doubt it "senses" anything - it's probably just a matter of the switch setting on the control box.  I think you'll be able to keep it in rotate mode easily, just by setting the switch to "rotate mode" and leaving it there.

Edited by mjr, 02 October 2017 - 08:05 PM.

[Fusionwerks]

 

i kind of like that it doesn't actually rotate. I planned to take it apart and see if i could figure out how it senses the different effects and internally keep it in rotate mode. 

 

I actually doubt it "senses" anything - it's probably just a matter of the switch setting on the control box.  I think you'll be able to keep it in rotate mode easily, just by setting the switch to "rotate mode" and leaving it there.

 

I think i meant look on the circuit board and find the other end of the switch. i dont plan in having that big dumb coiled wire and switch box. Even if nobody would ever see it, I'm kind of OCD like that.

 

Oh and i just received my 3D printed parts. They came out awesome using 3Dhubs

 

Edited by Fusionwerks, 02 October 2017 - 09:07 PM.

[mjr]

 

I actually doubt it "senses" anything - it's probably just a matter of the switch setting on the control box.  I think you'll be able to keep it in rotate mode easily, just by setting the switch to "rotate mode" and leaving it there.

 

I think i meant look on the circuit board and find the other end of the switch. i dont plan in having that big dumb coiled wire and switch box. Even if nobody would ever see it, I'm kind of OCD like that.

 

Ah, got it.  Yep, I'd feel the same way.   It wouldn't surprise me if all of the circuitry is in that box, but hopefully it's at the other end.

 

 

Oh and i just received my 3D printed parts. They came out awesome using 3Dhubs

 

Great.  What material did you end up using?

Edited by mjr, 02 October 2017 - 09:56 PM.

[Fusionwerks]

i ended up using the nylon in black. it was a bit more than the standard stuff they use for 3d printing, but i felt like it needed a harder material to hold up to the plunger.

 

for reference... i dont currently have the PC that will actually run this cabinet yet, but i am just doing testing and what not on a lower powered PC in the meantime. I am currently loading software and DOF, etc, but i am getting some serious lag with my mouse pointer. I was thinking it was my batteries, so i changed them, then i thought, maybe its because i have 2 monitors hooked up. nope... i ended up disconnecting the wires that connects from the main pc power supply to the pinscape boards and it all works fine. Does it HAVE to be separate from the secondary power supply? or do you have another thoughts? It is a 120watt PS

[mjr]

i ended up using the nylon in black. it was a bit more than the standard stuff they use for 3d printing, but i felt like it needed a harder material to hold up to the plunger.

 

for reference... i dont currently have the PC that will actually run this cabinet yet, but i am just doing testing and what not on a lower powered PC in the meantime. I am currently loading software and DOF, etc, but i am getting some serious lag with my mouse pointer. I was thinking it was my batteries, so i changed them, then i thought, maybe its because i have 2 monitors hooked up. nope... i ended up disconnecting the wires that connects from the main pc power supply to the pinscape boards and it all works fine. Does it HAVE to be separate from the secondary power supply? or do you have another thoughts? It is a 120watt PS

 

"Does it have to be separate from the secondary power supply?"  No.  But...

 

I don't think there's any possible way the power supply arrangement would have any effect like this on software, so I don't think it will matter whether you use separate power supplies.  There's got to be something else going on, but I'm not sure what.  Probably something software-related, possibly something related to the Pinscape joystick input.

 

The thing you probably changed when you disconnected the Pinscape board power was to change what Pinscape was sending over the USB connection.  Does the Pinscape unit still show up at all in Windows when you do that?

[Fusionwerks]

wierd, i unplugged them a couple of times before posting and i had problems, but this time it seems to be fine. when you say "show up in window" im assuming you mean under devices and printers? If i go there, it does show pinscape controller with an icon of a keyboard. 

[mjr]

wierd, i unplugged them a couple of times before posting and i had problems, but this time it seems to be fine. when you say "show up in window" im assuming you mean under devices and printers? If i go there, it does show pinscape controller with an icon of a keyboard. 

 

Right - okay, looks like it's still connected.  I don't have any ideas right off-hand of what might be wrong; let me know what else you find.

[Fusionwerks]

I think I'm just getting impatient and trying to do too much with a way underpowered computer. Just need to save a bit more money. Sucks that I still need the PC and the PF monitor. But i can still play some tables, just not very good quality

[mjr]

I think I'm just getting impatient and trying to do too much with a way underpowered computer. Just need to save a bit more money. Sucks that I still need the PC and the PF monitor. But i can still play some tables, just not very good quality

 

A good graphics card is a must, especially with VP 10.

 

Another thing that can help quite a bit if you have a quad-core or higher CPU (such as i5 or i7) is to set CPU affinities for different processes.  Of course, before you even start with that, get rid of as much background software as possible, such as antivirus/malware programs and Windows service processes.  You can permanently disable Windows service processes via the "Services" control panel by setting the Startup Type for unnecessary services to Disabled or Manual.  Once you've minimized what's running, you'll need to install a process affinity manager.  One free one that seems to get good reviews is "bill2's process manager" (search on that term).  What you want to do is set your CPU affinities like this:

 

- VP:  CPU 1, 2, 3 [and 4, 5, 6, 7, if present]

- Everything else that's running: CPU 0

 

The idea is to cram all of the Windows processes onto CPU 0, and give VP exclusive access to all of the other cores (or as close to exclusive as possible).  That minimizes the ability of other processes to interrupt a simulation thread.  Those interrupts cause stutter when they happen at moments when VP is CPU-bound, so it can greatly reduce stutter if you give CPU undivided use of a whole CPU core.  You can't do this at all with a single-core CPU, obviously, and it won't do much if any good with a 2-core CPU because of VP's other internal threads.  With a 4- or 8-core CPU, though, it can make the difference between unplayable stuttery badness and nice smooth play.

Edited by mjr, 03 October 2017 - 05:23 AM.

[hlr53]

Microsoft has a LOT of talented programmers that are very smart (management is suspect though and always has been) and I would think Windows 10 could optimize the cores for gaming automatically. Wasn't gaming mode supposed to do this? I haven't tried it yet because I haven't had performance issues.

 

Excellent info on core affinity. I haven't kept up with hardware optimization since the early Pentium days.

Edited by hlr53, 03 October 2017 - 11:10 AM.

[Fusionwerks]

that's good information MJR. Its just another small thing that i haven't read anywhere about setting up a cabinet. It was never my intention to use this PC for my actual build but i have managed to get way ahead of myself and just wanted to play around. The CPU could probably do it, but it is a mini PC and only has onboard graphics. I started with all the FF toys and boards so i could learn about the minor quirks, so when i did my final build i wasn't frustrated.