Why ? Whyyyyyy ? Why did you do this ? I thought, my cabinet was finished, now I have to buy these ! Shame on you guys
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Thanks for sharing your experiences, I did not even know, that they exist.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 10:23 AM
I'm doing a budget build so 7.1 will have to wait.
Rick -
In your 27" mini-pin build you mention about install another amp dedicated to the exciters. Would you use the Pam8610 or the TDA7377 since they're both 10W per channel?
Since the Dayton DAEX25VT-4 Exciters can handle 20W why not use a more powerful amp? Or is that really not needed? Since these are attached with adhesive how would you ever reposition them?
Rusty -
Do you think your exciters are louder because they're larger or maybe because they have a flat surface that attaches to the cabinet?
Mike
Rusty Cardores (Russell Stewart) - Gold Coast, Australia
Twitter: https://twitter.com/RustyPinball | Instagram: https://www.instagra.../rusty.pinball/ | Work: http://www.australianlight.com.au (Australian Landscape Photography)
'SSF' - Get awesome VPX Surround Sound Tactile Feedback in your cab https://www.facebook...oups/SSFeedback/
'Virtual Topper' - It's cooler than you might think! Check out the pics on my Instagram.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 12:49 PM
While I'm running an audio subwoofer (a pretty good Boston Acoustics) from a soundbar system, I'm interested in these bass shaker transducer variety, mainly for the space savings. But the audio sub, which I have pointing upwards at an angle to my lockdown bar, does give a good thump. When I get my other two exciters hooked up, I'm thinking I'll need to tone down the sub so I can hear the exciters in the back.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 03:47 PM
I'm doing a budget build so 7.1 will have to wait.
Rick -
In your 27" mini-pin build you mention about install another amp dedicated to the exciters. Would you use the Pam8610 or the TDA7377 since they're both 10W per channel?
Since the Dayton DAEX25VT-4 Exciters can handle 20W why not use a more powerful amp? Or is that really not needed? Since these are attached with adhesive how would you ever reposition them?
Rusty -
Do you think your exciters are louder because they're larger or maybe because they have a flat surface that attaches to the cabinet?
Mike
Mike,
Sorry I initially responded to this question with the wrong exciters and so I am correcting my previous post. Yes attach the exciters to the Pam8610 and the TDA37377 to the speakers, you will be impressed. The rest of the group here can tell you how to derive the input for this 2 ch amplifier.
For low supply voltage amplifiers 16V or lower, 4 ohm speakers should be used to get the maximum performance of the amplifier. I will dive in deeper on this subject later.
Edited by rickh, 24 August 2017 - 04:11 PM.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 08:24 PM
While I'm running an audio subwoofer (a pretty good Boston Acoustics) from a soundbar system, I'm interested in these bass shaker transducer variety, mainly for the space savings. But the audio sub, which I have pointing upwards at an angle to my lockdown bar, does give a good thump. When I get my other two exciters hooked up, I'm thinking I'll need to tone down the sub so I can hear the exciters in the back.
Earlier you mentioned you were using these.
https://www.amazon.c..._s_a_1_1&sr=8-1
What are the other two exciters you are going to use?
Posted 24 August 2017 - 08:51 PM
I was looking at the Exciters from Parts Express & most attach with adhesive. I was wondering how you would reposition them or move them to a different cabinet. I contacted PE and they said the Exciters are for permanent installations. That you might be able to gently pry it up & replace the 3M tape.
That seems like a reason to use the flat ones like Rusty & Onevox used.
PE has a weatherproof Exciter that attaches with a single built in screw. They are 4" in diameter.
https://www.parts-ex...sducer--300-387
Anyone ever tried these or something similar?
Posted 24 August 2017 - 09:07 PM
Anything with adhesive tape is easily removed by running a cutting blade along the cab surface. Re-attaching with new tape is simple. But anything with adhesive tape must lose some vibes due to the flex of the tape itself.
That said, there's no need to overthink this... the ones I listed work and work bloody well! ...and have proved themselves in multiple cabinets, even with the lowly 838 amp, as they easily produce sound levels well in excess of real pin events.
Plus they are available from Jaycar in the US as well as a Australia. By all means put good money into good sound for the backglass, but with the PMD side of things we are dealing with just bumps and clanks here. ![]()
Rusty Cardores (Russell Stewart) - Gold Coast, Australia
Twitter: https://twitter.com/RustyPinball | Instagram: https://www.instagra.../rusty.pinball/ | Work: http://www.australianlight.com.au (Australian Landscape Photography)
'SSF' - Get awesome VPX Surround Sound Tactile Feedback in your cab https://www.facebook...oups/SSFeedback/
'Virtual Topper' - It's cooler than you might think! Check out the pics on my Instagram.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 09:21 PM
Rusty,
In your DOF website you mention configuring the HDMI playfield TV as the secondary sound device & using its audio out to supply the signal for the Exciters.
I’m using a 27” monitor for my playfield & while it does have HDMI input there is no audio output. How do I get the the secondary sound device signal?
Mike
Posted 24 August 2017 - 09:42 PM
Brer Frog:
Here are my 58mm PE exciters, me hitting the flipper button, with and without the audio sub on.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 09:48 PM
Rusty,
In your DOF website you mention configuring the HDMI playfield TV as the secondary sound device & using its audio out to supply the signal for the Exciters.
I’m using a 27” monitor for my playfield & while it does have HDMI input there is no audio output. How do I get the the secondary sound device signal?
Mike
In that case you will need to run a second sound card (USB ones are cheap and easy to add). What about your backglass.... does it have HDMI and audio out? You could use if it it does.
That said though, with the developments for surround in 10.4, I would personally move towards a 7.1 card and the awesome benefits that go with it.
Rusty Cardores (Russell Stewart) - Gold Coast, Australia
Twitter: https://twitter.com/RustyPinball | Instagram: https://www.instagra.../rusty.pinball/ | Work: http://www.australianlight.com.au (Australian Landscape Photography)
'SSF' - Get awesome VPX Surround Sound Tactile Feedback in your cab https://www.facebook...oups/SSFeedback/
'Virtual Topper' - It's cooler than you might think! Check out the pics on my Instagram.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 10:01 PM
Is there any reason not to run game sounds off on-board audio, and surround PMD off my 5.1 sound card? (I wrestled with 5.1 or 7.1 when I bought my card earlier this year, but didn't think 7.1 would come so soon...)
Posted 24 August 2017 - 10:04 PM
Is there any reason not to run game sounds off on-board audio, and surround PMD off my 5.1 sound card? (I wrestled with 5.1 or 7.1 when I bought my card earlier this year, but didn't think 7.1 would come so soon...)
I will leave that one to Rob, as he would have a far better understanding of blending outputs when a 5.1 is involved (and the differences between 5.1 and 7.1 in relation to use with 10.4)
He is on hols at the moment though, so I don't know when he will chime in.
Rusty Cardores (Russell Stewart) - Gold Coast, Australia
Twitter: https://twitter.com/RustyPinball | Instagram: https://www.instagra.../rusty.pinball/ | Work: http://www.australianlight.com.au (Australian Landscape Photography)
'SSF' - Get awesome VPX Surround Sound Tactile Feedback in your cab https://www.facebook...oups/SSFeedback/
'Virtual Topper' - It's cooler than you might think! Check out the pics on my Instagram.
Posted 24 August 2017 - 10:18 PM
With 7.1 being added to VPX.4 I am going to get a standalone audio card later this year. I'm currently using Altec Lansing cubes with an attached ported reflex 6" sub. They were laying around from an old desktop I had. Even if I place the sub in the center of the cab standing up aiming backwards, I can feel it while playing. Adding some tactile feedback exciters and amp would be awesome! I still have to buy and add solenoids. Just haven't had the time.
I really learned to appreciate sounds/music playing Slam's FP tables. His sounds/Multimedia are unmatched. They are just killer, IMHO. I see a LOT of VPX tables getting sound upgrades down the line........ ![]()
I live very close to Parts Express and have purchased a ton of stuff from them over the years, mainly speakers for guitar tube amps and home stereo. I use 2 Dayton 12" subs for my basement home theater 7.2 Atmos system and for how inexpensive they cost, they sound awesome. I highly recommend Dayton brand stuff. For exciter amps, I need advice on what to buy?
Edited by hlr53, 24 August 2017 - 10:19 PM.
Former Cab: 40" Haier, 28" I-INC, i7-6700, 1080 GPU, v3DMD, 4D7 solenoids. Altec-Lansing speakers and sub. Artwork by Stuzza. Printing by Brad Bowman. VR HP reverb
Posted 24 August 2017 - 10:21 PM
Adding some tactile feedback exciters and amp would be awesome! I still have to buy and add solenoids. Just haven't had the time.
Don't do the solenoids until after the exciters..... then "if" you think you need them add them. But I bet you won't ![]()
Rusty Cardores (Russell Stewart) - Gold Coast, Australia
Twitter: https://twitter.com/RustyPinball | Instagram: https://www.instagra.../rusty.pinball/ | Work: http://www.australianlight.com.au (Australian Landscape Photography)
'SSF' - Get awesome VPX Surround Sound Tactile Feedback in your cab https://www.facebook...oups/SSFeedback/
'Virtual Topper' - It's cooler than you might think! Check out the pics on my Instagram.
Posted 25 August 2017 - 12:58 AM
Brer Frog:
Here are my 58mm PE exciters, me hitting the flipper button, with and without the audio sub on.
One of my regrets was not replacing my subwoofer with one of those huge shakers. Did I really miss anything?
Rick
Posted 25 August 2017 - 02:41 AM
OR.....
as Rob has done, use the Bass routing feature of your system and the surround will feed ALL bass via just the one main sub. This negates the need for the purchase and install of the additional sub(s) as seen in my diagram.
Posted 25 August 2017 - 02:53 AM
OR.....
as Rob has done, use the Bass routing feature of your system and the surround will feed ALL bass via just the one main sub. This negates the need for the purchase and install of the additional sub(s) as seen in my diagram.
Rusty, what are you referring to here? Do you have a picture of robs setup schematic as I am not following
Can you see the schematic of mine that I posted above? Rob's is the same setup, minus the 2 extra subs on the PMD amps I believe.
So with a combination of bass routing from the Windows surround setup and having one set of exciters set as full speakers, the sound management will automatically direct all bass tones to the one sub.
I'll leave it to Rob to explain properly, as I get quite confuzzeled by it all. lol
Rusty Cardores (Russell Stewart) - Gold Coast, Australia
Twitter: https://twitter.com/RustyPinball | Instagram: https://www.instagra.../rusty.pinball/ | Work: http://www.australianlight.com.au (Australian Landscape Photography)
'SSF' - Get awesome VPX Surround Sound Tactile Feedback in your cab https://www.facebook...oups/SSFeedback/
'Virtual Topper' - It's cooler than you might think! Check out the pics on my Instagram.
Posted 25 August 2017 - 05:09 AM
I'm doing a budget build so 7.1 will have to wait.
Rick -
In your 27" mini-pin build you mention about install another amp dedicated to the exciters. Would you use the Pam8610 or the TDA7377 since they're both 10W per channel?
Since the Dayton DAEX25VT-4 Exciters can handle 20W why not use a more powerful amp? Or is that really not needed? Since these are attached with adhesive how would you ever reposition them?
Rusty -
Do you think your exciters are louder because they're larger or maybe because they have a flat surface that attaches to the cabinet?
Mike
Mike,
Sorry I initially responded to this question with the wrong exciters and so I am correcting my previous post. Yes attach the exciters to the Pam8610 and the TDA37377 to the speakers, you will be impressed. The rest of the group here can tell you how to derive the input for this 2 ch amplifier.
For low supply voltage amplifiers 16V or lower, 4 ohm speakers should be used to get the maximum performance of the amplifier. I will dive in deeper on this subject later.
I’m getting confused referring to multiple threads. Which posting did you update?
Regarding your 27” mini-pin you used the DAEX25VT-4 Exciters and a TPA3116D2 2.1 amplifier, correct? Which 6” woofer did you use?
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