68 replies to this topic

[Brer Frog]

Regarding controls -

For now I'm just going to use the keyboard encoder. I'd like to eventually add Pinscape or something with an accelerometer to handle the nudge.

 

And this "The Poor Man's DOF" looks interesting.

http://www.aussiearc...actile-Feedback

[rickh]

Breh,

 

Spot on!!  My system uses a variant of the "poor Man's DOF".  Our Aussie friends down under know their stuff.  You need to look into 'exciters'.  They are available from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

For a plunger, this can be had for $15 + shipping:

https://www.amazon.c...e?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The linear pot need for plunger is $11:

https://www.amazon.c...e?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The Pinscape controller + all the wiring/hardware will set you back about $25 maximum.  Audio including exciters, subwoofer, and speakers should be less than $65.

Let me know if you need help.

 

Regards,

 

Rick

[Brer Frog]

Finally made some progress Saturday. It’s just been too hot to work in the garage.

Spent quite a bit of time trying to get the monitor positioned. Problem is the monitor’s edges are not symmetrical. The back side at the bottom has bulges so you cannot just fasten 2 equal strips of wood at the same height to the cabinet sides to support the monitor.

This shows the monitor's back at the bottom edge with the bulges.

 IMG_2741C.jpg   54.71KB   17 downloads

This shows the mounting rails.

 IMG_2744C.jpg   93.38KB   16 downloads

Here's the monitor in place.

 IMG_2732C.jpg   87.69KB   16 downloads

This is with the acrylic plastic "glass" on top with the protective layers still on it. Not a lot of clearance between the left button & monitor because of the bulges in the monitor's back along that edge.

 IMG_2733C.jpg   70.84KB   19 downloads

Here's the player's POV. The plastic is only about 1/4" longer than the screen. But since you're viewing at an angle the plastic looks a lot longer.

 IMG_2739C.jpg   72.64KB   17 downloads

Next step is to come up with some sort of DIY lockdown bar. Not sure if I want to fashion it out of a single piece of wood or build it using s few pieces as shown here.
http://www.vpforums....4269#entry29061
 

[rickh]

I understand the frustration with the monitor edges not being symmetrical. My cabinet has several shims to hold the monitor in place.  That lockdown bar looks great, mine was a solid piece of oak with a router relief for the glass. Just remember, your'e not building a piano.  

[Brer Frog]

Here's few photos I took a week ago & thought were posted. They show the test fitting of the playfield monitor filler panels.

 

 IMG_2749C.jpg   104.26KB   10 downloads  IMG_2750C.jpg   111.51KB   9 downloads  IMG_2752C.jpg   84.23KB   9 downloads  IMG_2753C.jpg   91.89KB   9 downloads

[Brer Frog]

Here's some more photos.

 

Monitor set between the upper & lower filler panels which are now glued in place.
 IMG_2763C.jpg   108.94KB   11 downloads

 

Backbox just resting on cab.

 IMG_2766C.jpg   113.51KB   10 downloads

 

Playfield acrylic plastic (with protective coating still on) resting on cab.

 IMG_2767C.jpg   119.88KB   11 downloads

 

Plastic positioned under lip cut into backbox.

 IMG_2769C.jpg   84.59KB   12 downloads

 

[rickh]

It's looking really good!  Have you figured out what you are going to do about painting?

[Brer Frog]

Will paint it either black or gray. Initially it will be in our "office" with the computer stuff so it hopefully it will sort of blend in, or at least not look outrageous!

[rickh]

Awesome!  I like your approach.  I am doing the same, but mine goes into my tap room.

[Brer Frog]

It's slowly getting there. Here's a pix of the backbox with the monitor just sitting in it. I already had it built with a gap around the monitor & decided to cut down the box to closely fit the monitor. Really a pain trying to carefully cut it apart but got it done. I have to make a speaker grille to cover the lower part of the monitor & the space below it.

 IMG_2788C.jpg   109.64KB   11 downloads

[Brer Frog]

Here's some new photos.
Front & rear of backbox with monitor.
Backbox sitting on cabinet without playfield monitor, with playfield monitor, and with acrylic plastic "glass".

 

Wish I didn't cut down the backbox height so much. Could have used a little extra room for the speakers under the backglass monitor.

 

 Backbox_front.jpg   67.37KB   12 downloads   Backbox_rear.jpg   90.82KB   12 downloads   Cab_1.jpg   65.29KB   12 downloads   Cab_2.jpg   70.57KB   12 downloads   Cab_3.jpg   63.55KB   11 downloads

[Onevox]

how much clearance for speakers? i pulled a couple from a soundbar like this, if you're looking for speaker ideas. like 2" x 6"

Attached Files

•  g065TVM25-o_grilleoff.jpg   9.79KB   10 downloads

[Brer Frog]

There is 1-3/4 inches between monitor & bottom of backbox. It was 2-1/4" before I cut it down. I cut 1/2" off each side & thought it looked better by also reducing the height. Didn't realize that would affect speaker choices significantly but it does.

 

I could use 2" speakers & angle them a bit up or down in order to reduce their vertical profile. Or place them just behind the monitor.

 

Also thought about using a pair of small computer speakers with a built in amp & putting them just behind the monitor.

[Onevox]

Those speakers are less than 1.75" so they'd fit. I tested mine and only one works. They came out of a Boston acoustics tv25 or tv20 soundbar. Maybe cheap on eBay now since they're like 12 years old.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rickh]

Mike, you could look into a small pair of exciters too, as they would be less intrusive.  I am planning to have several people critique my cabinet today (whether they know it or not) and should get some feedback on my audio on my micro cabinet.

 

Rick

[Brer Frog]

Rick,

 

From your build thread you mentioned your "main objective with the audio system was to use it as haptics". I'd like to have haptic feedback but am concerned about all the audio including vocals that are present on many tables. For example Attack From Mars has several voices that I would not want to miss. Regarding ATF, I played a real one with a shaker motor, or sure felt like it. Absolutely awesome. Whenever the flying saucer was hit the cabinet would really let you know! I'd like to be able to do something similar at a reasonable cost. But first I have to get the basics working. Without a workshop it's just a PITA to bring stuff back & forth from basement to garage. But it's slowly progressing.

 

Please do let us know what others say about your audio setup.

 

Mike

Edited by Brer Frog, 19 August 2017 - 10:50 PM.

[rickh]

Mike,

 

No worries. Exciters work very well on plywood and with your large side area on your cabinet, they will sound sweet.  However, the volume will not match that of a regular speaker, but should be more than adequate for a pinball machine.   More importantly is the bass speaker, as this will generate the lows vibes and jolts that will be felt by your hands.  You have not specified your amplifier, so please share that info so that I can review. To date I have tested and reviewed over 12 of these amplifiers and would like to share my knowledge.

 

As for a rumble box, find a large ERM vibe motor and drive it using a Sainsmart relay board using DOF.  I placed two medium sized ERM vibe motors in my cabinet, but the vibration is not adequate.  I think that high mass ERM at low RPM would be the ticket, but alas I have not seemed to find one.  I have researched this in further detail and have come up with this high compliance vibe motor:

http://www.ebay.com/...zwAAOSwIcdZdF4T

here is another which requires 24VDC:

http://www.ebay.com/...s8AAOSwgv5ZWzzn

 

If you plan to use your CPU system supply with this motor, you will need a large filter Capacitor (10000 uFd @25V and a EMF diode (1N4002), as these motors will cause the 12V rail to dip and possibly cause your CPU to lock up. 

 

BTW Since you played the actual cabinet, was the vibration going forward/aft or left to right?

 

Rick

Edited by rickh, 21 August 2017 - 07:14 PM.

[rickh]

Sorry posted in the wrong thread

Edited by rickh, 22 August 2017 - 12:48 AM.

[Brer Frog]

Rick -

Thanks for all the information.

 

Not sure where I'll end up with the mini-pin. It supposed to be a budget build just because it can be. I figured for about the cost of a playfield monitor I could build this thing.

 

I have a couple spare PSUs & figured to use one to power cooling fans for the cabinet. It could also be used to power an audio amp to drive a pair of speakers. Or just buy a pair of PC speakers with a built in amp. I'm still looking into what's available.

 

I've seen some builds with exciters but AFAIK they were used just for haptic feedback. I never thought about using them for the main audio speakers until you mentioned it.

 

I pulled the encoder out of an old keyboard & will use that for the buttons. Nothing fancy so no DOF at least not to start with.

 

Regarding the real AFM shaker, I have no idea which way it shook & never thought about it. It was at a pinball expo with close to 150 tables. I didn't play all of them but kept coming back to AFM whenever it was available. The flying saucer shook the cabinet & so did the vibrating Martians. It was my favorite table & wish I had one just like it.

[rickh]

Mike,

 

 I did exactly the same on my first cabinet build, made it on the extreme cheap and started adding improvements later.  Keep us posted on your project.

 

Regards,

 

Rick