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The Joker Poker Build


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#21 Onevox

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 05:47 PM

Got the back box fitted...finally. I printed out on paper, but having the gottlieb logo CNC routed as an overlay. Or if that fails I'll paint on. JP backbox came with wiring harness which gave me a good selection of wire colors so each button will have its own color. And I've designed button inserts. 4bda85432cad2b1bc25f0b5fe4e196e5.jpg26859c1a1493694391ff8d44fced3b67.jpg3e7aedbec697976030a495b4b8d5079e.jpg


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#22 BorgDog

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 06:18 PM

I like that gottlieb logo, nice stuff.

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#23 hanzoverfist

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 06:51 PM

Onevox you have some serious talent(s)... nice to see.


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#24 Onevox

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 11:01 AM

Backbox meets cab. I think the logo is too big and dominant. Looking for better options. Also, the topper screen feels far back now that the front frame is on. May need to rethink that. 64e05d131386c850a2484dec0244d345.jpg5f9a1ed367762e5f57c5b964a62064b8.jpg3ce3ddd40b786ea5cf236755e8c34905.jpg


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#25 BorgDog

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 02:56 PM

I think the topper looks fine, you'll just have to play with image placement a bit. I agree on the logo, the first test one you posted was smaller and I think would look ok. Try it in the cab red maybe so it doesn't stand out so much? Looks great, I like the black legs on that cab, may need to switch them out on my joker poker.

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#26 Onevox

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 04:22 PM

Back to the CNC. Not sure it'll cut smaller but we'll see.

Woodworker friend says "we'll try"
10-12 inches instead of 16 inches

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Edited by Onevox, 02 July 2017 - 06:00 PM.

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#27 Onevox

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 05:28 PM

Keyboard input only test. Cool to finally see it like this. Here's Borg's JP table. Struggling
With PBX dropping back glass Screen when I plug in topper screen and launch a game. PBX insists on putting BG on topper screen. 318fa653ae533694648871a13942356d.jpg


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#28 Onevox

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 07:18 PM

Back glass problem solved once I got the X offsets right on BG and DMD, and matched between PBX and B2S.  Next up: the Pinscape layer: nudge, optical plunger sensor, main expansion, buttons. 


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#29 BorgDog

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 09:01 PM

Always good to get it up and running. Topper looks good. 

 

That doesn't appear to by my JP though, those images are the SS version, probably 32assassins. If you haven't seen it yet, be sure and check out pbxrecorder to take screen shots or videos of how you have tables setup on your cab to put in pbx.  



#30 Onevox

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 09:54 PM

I have recorder and love it. Not sure if game matches the PBX shot. But not at the fine tuning the games stage yet. Just bench tested to get the system working. Once I get it fully working, I'll go back to getting the games tuned in. I have both em and ss loaded.


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#31 Onevox

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 03:09 AM

I've been busy working on my Pinscape main board, perhaps the scariest part of all this. I haven't tested yet, so I'm not out of the woods. Putting all the components on  was daunting, but if your considering it, you do get a rhythm to it and it gets easier as you go along. Found myself going, "one, two, pull" to get the proper amount of solder. If you see an issue, please point it out.  The ribbon cable for the optical sensor was a bit of a pain, but finally got all the connections to beep on my DMM.

 

Oh, BTW if you're studying the pictures. I have the wire connectors resting on the headers in the pic to make sure I had them all. I'm not using the the power or chime board, so those headers are blank.

 

Big thanks to mjr for his patience in answering questions about the Pinscape build. 

 

 


Got my plunger installed. Love the look of 70s Gottlieb hardware on this. And an interlock switch, which came with the coin door as a diagnostics button, had to move the connections inside so its open/open, closed/closed. or is it the other way around :)

 

I got Cary Owen's plunger sensor housing 3D printed locally for free. It didn't fit the GTB plunger perfectly, but I was able to tweak. It was fragile, so I reinforced with duct tape and stick on felt, which is why it looks fuzzy. 

 

Next up, getting Pinscape and Pinscape controller installed, plunger sensor in place, and buttons wired.

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Edited by Onevox, 02 August 2017 - 03:11 AM.

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#32 BorgDog

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 04:26 AM

I've been busy working on my Pinscape main board, perhaps the scariest part of all this. I haven't tested yet, so I'm not out of the woods. Putting all the components on  was daunting, but if your considering it, you do get a rhythm to it and it gets easier as you go along. Found myself going, "one, two, pull" to get the proper amount of solder. If you see an issue, please point it out.  The ribbon cable for the optical sensor was a bit of a pain, but finally got all the connections to beep on my DMM.
 
Oh, BTW if you're studying the pictures. I have the wire connectors resting on the headers in the pic to make sure I had them all. I'm not using the the power or chime board, so those headers are blank.
 
Big thanks to mjr for his patience in answering questions about the Pinscape build. 
 
 

Got my plunger installed. Love the look of 70s Gottlieb hardware on this. And an interlock switch, which came with the coin door as a diagnostics button, had to move the connections inside so its open/open, closed/closed. or is it the other way around :)
 
I got Cary Owen's plunger sensor housing 3D printed locally for free. It didn't fit the GTB plunger perfectly, but I was able to tweak. It was fragile, so I reinforced with duct tape and stick on felt, which is why it looks fuzzy. 
 
Next up, getting Pinscape and Pinscape controller installed, plunger sensor in place, and buttons wired.

Looking good, nice re-purpose of the button.

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#33 Onevox

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 11:34 AM

Time for an update. Pictures to tell the story mostly. 

 

The wires salvaged from the backbox wiring harness work perfectly. So many color options, easy to trace.

 

The last thing to do, at the moment, is installing two more exciters at the back of the PF screen for PMD surround. Just waiting for a replacement on the silver Lepy amp since the one I got (and shown in the photos) was bad. I have two more 58mm exciters ready to go. In the pics I'm planning placement. 

 

My Pinscape main interface board works perfectly, as far as I can tell. The CCD plunger works like a charm, nudging still fascinates me, and my DOF button lights (hooked up to flasher ports on the main board) add so much to the cool factor.

 

I bent and formed a piece of plexiglas to make a cover for the Pinscape board so falling objects and reaching hands do pull stuff loose. 

 

No picture at the moment, but I found some styrene molding I didn't use on arcade sign I made, and painted it black to trim out the sides of the PF screen. using thin magnetic sheeting that I'll glue to the molding strips, which will hold them in place on the metal frame around the LED screen. (Sheeting came with the new phone book for a pizza joint or something!)

 

In the pics, the audio sub has been removed while I work on wiring. It mounts over the amps and points to lockdown bar. 

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#34 Onevox

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 07:13 PM

ebb3b96746b7d604fa85fba4d82b1a5a.jpg

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I find magnets good for putting things in place. I used a couple of cabinet magnets to sort of lock the playfield sled in place. Pics show name badge magnets that hold the wood bar at the lockdown in place, easy to remove when I need access. And the magnetic sheeting that holds the black trim to the sides of the PF screen. 

 

Also a pic of the plexi cover for the Pinscape controller, bent with a pencil butane torch! But I recommend for keep dust, falling screws, and hands away from components and connections. 


I'm pretty much done for now but have a few enhancements I'm thinking about. 1.) Moving the playfield TV up parallel to the glass to get the TV angle better. I have the rear feet up all the way and the front down all the way and wishing I had a better viewing angle on the PF. That would mean moving the masking panel at the rear of the PF area up about 2". This would help create a bit more room for  2.) A third subwoofer for the rear PF surroundsound exciters.

 

 I got the exciters and third amp hooked up and am now running PMD surround. It's captivating. Your ears can track the ball movement on the playfield. Rusty Cardores and DJRobX have really elevated the experience. 


Edited by Onevox, 24 September 2017 - 07:19 PM.

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#35 Brer Frog

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 08:04 PM

Onevox -

 

What are your magnetic sheets attached to, as shown in your last photo above? It looks like they are attached to a lighter colored material that is already sitting on top of the edge of your playfield monitor. Any clarification would be appreciated. Thanks.



#36 Onevox

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 02:47 AM

It's 1/2" styrene molding from the hardware store. Spray painted black. The magnets stick to the thin metal frame around the decased tv.


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Edited by Onevox, 26 September 2017 - 02:48 AM.

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#37 Onevox

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:14 AM

c0e9db1e1a8a697b6034d6e21dba9e2e.jpg


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#38 Onevox

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 10:08 PM

The "Rusty Borgscape" vpin, formerly the Joker Poker build, takes its place in the rec room. A good day.

4b07ec59a2a69be90809c237fdf340f0.jpg


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Edited by Onevox, 08 October 2017 - 08:18 PM.

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#39 Onevox

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 12:15 PM

Made a couple of tweaks.

 

My PF TV would shut off after being on for a while, indicating it was overheating. So I installed a 4" CPU fan to blow air on the back of the TV.

 

I had planned to install flashers under the playfield glass but changed my mind. So I raised that panel at the back of the PF screen which raised the back of the PF screen by 1.25" ... a much better viewing angle. (I find that the tables look more natural  when the the screen is parallel to the tops of the sides.)

 

 

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#40 Onevox

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 12:12 AM

BorgDog, I remembered today one last bit of business. This one’s for you. I just couldn’t sand it off and paint over it. 9dcaf90d587dbffb452c781a11aab20a.jpg


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