23 replies to this topic

[Ph03nix89]

 

mviars any chance of getting the model number of the playfield screen and what plans did you use for the cab if any?

In the planning stages of a widebody build and the config you have with your playfield and cab is exactly what I'm looking for

 

The Cabinet is base on a widebody plan with the width being 25" to accommodate a standard widebody lockdown bar. The TV was a Sony slim style 46" not sure of the model off hand but I do know it is no longer made. Basicly the inside dimensions for a widebody with 3/4"  wood is 23 1/2" if you router out a grove in the wood you could get to 24 1/4" but that is about it. Things to look for in a playfield monitor would be at least a 120hrz refresh rate, good contrast ratio(better black levels make the colors pop), good brightness(make sure to turn off any eco or light dimming sensors or else your brightness goes up and down), also very important is good side viewing as that's pretty much how your going to always be looking at it. Lastly It's nice to have a TV that can turn on when power is applied. Hope this helps.

 

Exactly what I needed to know. Cheers bud

[mviars]

Anytime, Good Luck!

[l0g0n]

Can I ask what parts you used to build the motorized playfield setup.  I am building a games table where I want to be able to raise and lower the main screen at an angle to be used as a virtual pinball setup.  Thanks for any help/advice you can offer.

[mviars]

Can I ask what parts you used to build the motorized playfield setup.  I am building a games table where I want to be able to raise and lower the main screen at an angle to be used as a virtual pinball setup.  Thanks for any help/advice you can offer.

 

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I built an aluminum frame to support the entire monitor then used linear actuators to raise and lower. I had 2 laying around so used one for each side using a lever type action so I can control the amount of lift. I found this much more reliable than using  micro-switches to stop movement as they can go bad. I use the full throw length of the actuator and adjusted the length of the lever. I am sure you can easily do this with one actuator to move two attached levers. I found the most important thing I did was to not actually attach the lever to the aluminum frame due to the fact that if one actuator goes out and the other goes up it will tweak the monitor and crack the screen. I got around this by attaching small wheels to the end of the levers and have them roll across the aluminum frame pushing it up this way if one goes out the other the other pushes up one side of the screen but the bad side is not attached and holding it down. Now if you used a single actuator and two levers this would both save you money and not have this problem which in hind site I would have done.   

 

Hope this help. Please feel free to ask any more questions. MV