734 replies to this topic

[lemming77]

Hi

 

Thanks for sharing the code for this great project.

 

I've changed some code to get it to work with a slide potentiometer for the analog plunger instead of the CCD array:

 

http://www.ebay.com....tm/231268347558

 

It works out to be much cheaper.

 

I've still got a bit of tweaking to do but it looks like it will work out fine.

 

Has anyone else had a go at using something other than the CCD?

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: http://developer.mbe...troller_Slider/

 

Uses pin PTB0

Edited by lemming77, 24 February 2015 - 06:00 AM.

[javier1515]

Consult Again ..

MJR only use 14 outputs Joystick but leave 17 outputs if in future other buttons did it fall, my question is .. to reallocate more outputs Ledwz is as simple as editing the code in this way.

 

I do not use ports in the Joystick:

 

This part would be amended to "NC"

 

     PTC16, // J2 pin 5, joystick button 17

     PTC17, // J2 pin 7, joystick button 18

     PTA16, // J2 pin 9, joystick button 19

     PTA17, // J2 pin 11, joystick button 20

     PTE31, // J2 pin 13, joystick button 21

     PTD6, // J2 pin 17, joystick button 22

     PTD7, // J2 pin 19, joystick button 23

    

     PTE1, // J2 pin 20, joystick button 24

 

Ports unsigned to Ledwiz

 

     {PTC16, True}, // pin J2-8, LW port 23

     {PTC17, True}, // pin J1-14, LW port 24

     {PTA16, True}, // pin J1-16, LW port 25

     {PTA17, True}, // pin J1-1, LW port 26

     {PTE31, True}, // pin J1-3, LW port 27

     {PTD6, True}, // pin J1-5, LW port 28

     {PTD7, True}, // pin J1-7, LW port 29

     {PTE1, True}, // pin J1-9, LW port 30

 

I apologize if this is a silly question.

 

This is my plate already finished.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thank you for such a great invention.

 

 

[mjr]

Consult Again ..

MJR only use 14 outputs Joystick but leave 17 outputs if in future other buttons did it fall, my question is .. to reallocate more outputs Ledwz is as simple as editing the code in this way.

 

I do not use ports in the Joystick:

 

This part would be amended to "NC"

 

     PTC16, // J2 pin 5, joystick button 17

     PTC17, // J2 pin 7, joystick button 18

     PTA16, // J2 pin 9, joystick button 19

     PTA17, // J2 pin 11, joystick button 20

     PTE31, // J2 pin 13, joystick button 21

     PTD6, // J2 pin 17, joystick button 22

     PTD7, // J2 pin 19, joystick button 23

    

     PTE1, // J2 pin 20, joystick button 24

 

Ports unsigned to Ledwiz

 

     {PTC16, True}, // pin J2-8, LW port 23

     {PTC17, True}, // pin J1-14, LW port 24

     {PTA16, True}, // pin J1-16, LW port 25

     {PTA17, True}, // pin J1-1, LW port 26

     {PTE31, True}, // pin J1-3, LW port 27

     {PTD6, True}, // pin J1-5, LW port 28

     {PTD7, True}, // pin J1-7, LW port 29

     {PTE1, True}, // pin J1-9, LW port 30

 

Yes, that's right, except that the 'True' entries should all be 'False', since none of those pins are PWM-capable (that's just a hardware limitation of the KL25Z).  As long as you're planning to use those outputs to control on/off devices like contactors, rather than variable brightness devices like LEDs, they'll work fine.  Also, it looks like you copied the pin assignment comments from ports 11-18 - you'll want to just copy the pin names from the comments from the matching buttons instead (J2-5 for PTC16, Js-7 for PTC17, etc).

 

Hope this helps!

[javier1515]

ok, It would be something like ..

 

     {PTC16, False}, // pin J2-8, LW port 23

     {PTC17, False}, // pin J1-14, LW port 24

     {PTA16, False}, // pin J1-16, LW port 25

     {PTA17, False}, // pin J1-1, LW port 26

     {PTE31, False}, // pin J1-3, LW port 27

     {PTD6, False}, // pin J1-5, LW port 28

     {PTD7, False}, // pin J1-7, LW port 29

     {PTE1, False}, // pin J1-9, LW port 30

 

 

Sorry I do not understand English well, you could edit the lines so I copied and pasted.

 

 

Thanks for you help..

Edited by javier1515, 28 December 2014 - 02:14 AM.

[mjr]

 

ok, It would be something like ..

 

     {PTC16, False}, // pin J2-8, LW port 23

     {PTC17, False}, // pin J1-14, LW port 24

     {PTA16, False}, // pin J1-16, LW port 25

     {PTA17, False}, // pin J1-1, LW port 26

     {PTE31, False}, // pin J1-3, LW port 27

     {PTD6, False}, // pin J1-5, LW port 28

     {PTD7, False}, // pin J1-7, LW port 29

     {PTE1, False}, // pin J1-9, LW port 30

 

Close - just need to fix the pin names in the comments:

 

     {PTC16, False}, // pin J2-5, LW port 23

     {PTC17, False}, // pin J2-7, LW port 24

     {PTA16, False}, // pin J2-9, LW port 25

     {PTA17, False}, // pin J2-11, LW port 26

     {PTE31, False}, // pin J2-13, LW port 27

     {PTD6, False}, // pin J2-17, LW port 28

     {PTD7, False}, // pin J2-19, LW port 29

     {PTE1, False}, // pin J2-20, LW port 30

 

(The comments are just comments, of course, so it works the same either way.  Just wanted to make sure the comments don't mislead you when you wire it up.)

[lemming77]

Hi guys

 

Have my DIY plunger working well now.

 

A lot of the tables work out of the box with analog plunger support.

 

Some you just need to enable the check box "Enable Mechanical Plunger".

 

While others need table code changes etc.

 

Is there a resource for pre-modded tables with analog plunger support?

 

Would save a heap of time for everyone.

 

PS. I've got Scared Stiff working by checking "Enable Mechanical Plunger", but there's no animation. Does anyone know how to fix it?

 

Also, is it possible to use the analog plunger to shoot balls that generally use a button to shoot, such as Attack From Mars?

[hauntfreaks]

my PinScape setup has worked perfect from Day One... But I recently upgraded my PC to a i5 quadcore and kept my GTX560ti videocard

so because of the upgrade windows made me reinstall win7 all over again...  I had everything backed up so it wasn't  huge deal....

anyway whats happening now is if i leave the cab on for a while not being played when i come back to play the KL25Z has lost contact with the PC... it comes right back if i hit the reset button on the KL25Z

I have the screen saver and power management disabled 

 

anyone else having this issue??..... or know what it could be?

any help wold be awesome

[javier1515]

my PinScape setup has worked perfect from Day One... But I recently upgraded my PC to a i5 quadcore and kept my GTX560ti videocard

so because of the upgrade windows made me reinstall win7 all over again...  I had everything backed up so it wasn't  huge deal....

anyway whats happening now is if i leave the cab on for a while not being played when i come back to play the KL25Z has lost contact with the PC... it comes right back if i hit the reset button on the KL25Z

I have the screen saver and power management disabled 

 

anyone else having this issue??..... or know what it could be?

any help wold be awesome

 

 

My problem is similar to yours except my KL25Z not work when I turn my cab status light being in Red, I squeezed the reset button KL25Z and everything works fine.

What can cause this problem?

[mjr]

anyway whats happening now is if i leave the cab on for a while not being played when i come back to play the KL25Z has lost contact with the PC... it comes right back if i hit the reset button on the KL25Z

 

I haven't seen that myself.  The only thing that comes to mind is that it might be a USB 3 issue - you said you switched to a newer motherboard, so you might have gotten upgraded USB ports in the process.  The mbed KL25Z USB client library had some bugs with USB 3 support when I first started working with it - actually, it didn't work at all with USB 3 ports.  I managed to track down the root causes and fix them, and it's been very solid for me with USB 3 ever since, but I'm not entirely confident that there aren't some other compatibility issues lurking that might show up with different motherboards or USB controller chipsets.  If you have a USB 2 port available on the new PC, you might try plugging the KL25Z into that.  Many newer motherboards have both types.  If you only have USB 3 ports on the motherboard, you could try plugging the KL25Z into a USB 2 hub and plugging that into the computer.

[hauntfreaks]

 

anyway whats happening now is if i leave the cab on for a while not being played when i come back to play the KL25Z has lost contact with the PC... it comes right back if i hit the reset button on the KL25Z

 

I haven't seen that myself.  The only thing that comes to mind is that it might be a USB 3 issue - you said you switched to a newer motherboard, so you might have gotten upgraded USB ports in the process.  The mbed KL25Z USB client library had some bugs with USB 3 support when I first started working with it - actually, it didn't work at all with USB 3 ports.  I managed to track down the root causes and fix them, and it's been very solid for me with USB 3 ever since, but I'm not entirely confident that there aren't some other compatibility issues lurking that might show up with different motherboards or USB controller chipsets.  If you have a USB 2 port available on the new PC, you might try plugging the KL25Z into that.  Many newer motherboards have both types.  If you only have USB 3 ports on the motherboard, you could try plugging the KL25Z into a USB 2 hub and plugging that into the computer.

 

MJR thank you for the reply I will test all these options.... thanks again for a great system

[J3SteR]

Im having multi plungers showing on Cactus Canyon High res table. But I cant find "Motion" anywhere in the script. Anyone know what else in the script is causing it? Thanks

[J3SteR]

Ignore that now. Seems to not be showing two anymore? Or I got it confused with another table.

Edited by J3SteR, 03 January 2015 - 01:38 AM.

[ClarkKent]

I haven't read the whole thread but I would like to report what I experienced with a mounted 10k ohm potentiometer on my mechanical plunger (connected to the PinControl1 board):

DIView shows an absolutely correct movement, 0% at the park position and 100 % at the most pulled position.
In VP the plunger on the screen moves exactely the same way I'm pulling on the mounted plunger. Looks absolutely reallistic!

But - and this is the big BUT - it does not shoot the ball the same way as the digital plunger. And this happens on the same table.

When pulling the plunger with a key (digital) I get the reaction of the ball I'm expecting, like on a real pinball machine. The more I`m pulling, the harder the ball is hit. But when pulling the analogue plunger on the same table it could happen that I'm pulling it e.g. 2 cm and the ball just wiggles, then I'm pulling 3 cm and the ball still just wiggles, then I'm pulling 4 cm and the ball is shot with almost full strength. Skil shots are almost impossible, I have to use the digital plunger (key) to do skill shots.

Only tables with Koadic's impulse plunger works relatively good (after correcting the park position from 0 to a slightly higher value).Not perfect but good enough to do skill shots.

And I noticed that the "release speed" does not do anything when using an analogue plunger, no matter if you enter 50 or 500 there. But I think this is right because only a digitial plunger is released (from 100 to 0), analogue plungers do not release but moving back from 100 to 0 fast (100,99,98, etc.).

Is this a bug in VP or how can this be solved?

Edited by ClarkKent, 09 January 2015 - 02:31 PM.

[sliderpoint]

What I have found is that Mech Strength and Break Over Velocity are what affect the analog plunger.  I typically set the break over to 5.  This typically results in a small pull actually hits and affects the ball.  The Mech Strength can vary quite a bit depending on the rest of the physic settings on each table, could be as low as 35 or up to 90 (physmod vs 9.9 makes a difference too).   What I haven't pinned down yet is if the Stroke Length has an affect or not, but Pull Speed and Release speed seem to be for the digital key only.

 

-Mike

[ClarkKent]

I have the biggest trouble with the strength. Until a certain point (about 40 to 50 %) it's slightly increasing - but slightly more from this point and there is a leap in strength so that the ball is shot too far. Skill shots are impossible.

 

And I have the problem that it is not possible to set a table up for digital and analogue plunger. For the digital one the tip of the plunger hast to be only slightly outside the apron, the analogue one has to be place a little bit more up otherwise you can not shoot the ball at all.

 

I still think there is a bug in the code in VP. I hope somebody can fix this.

[ClarkKent]

What I have found is that Mech Strength and Break Over Velocity are what affect the analog plunger.  I typically set the break over to 5.  This typically results in a small pull actually hits and affects the ball.  The Mech Strength can vary quite a bit depending on the rest of the physic settings on each table, could be as low as 35 or up to 90 (physmod vs 9.9 makes a difference too).   What I haven't pinned down yet is if the Stroke Length has an affect or not, but Pull Speed and Release speed seem to be for the digital key only.

 

-Mike

THANX!!! I think this was it! I never thought the Break Over Velocity has anything to do with that - but value 5 helped a lot!

 

This should be mentioned in the documentation for VP!!

Edited by ClarkKent, 09 January 2015 - 07:30 PM.

[mpad]

Documentation?
I thought you have to spend at least 2 years reading forums before you are allowed to play a game!

[hauntfreaks]

I haven't seen that myself.  The only thing that comes to mind is that it might be a USB 3 issue - you said you switched to a newer motherboard, so you might have gotten upgraded USB ports in the process.  The mbed KL25Z USB client library had some bugs with USB 3 support when I first started working with it - actually, it didn't work at all with USB 3 ports.  I managed to track down the root causes and fix them, and it's been very solid for me with USB 3 ever since, but I'm not entirely confident that there aren't some other compatibility issues lurking that might show up with different motherboards or USB controller chipsets.  If you have a USB 2 port available on the new PC, you might try plugging the KL25Z into that.  Many newer motherboards have both types.  If you only have USB 3 ports on the motherboard, you could try plugging the KL25Z into a USB 2 hub and plugging that into the computer.

 

 

 

I checked and the new MB has all USB2 ports.... so im kinda lost... 

 

 

also I'm in the middle of building a cab for a local guy.... and have the  KL25Z all hooked up and working great.... but when i wired up the CCD once again (this is the second one) its DOA.... I have an RMA in with mouser ....but this is a real set back since this is a time sensitive build must to be done by the 28th.... anyone else ever get a DOA CCD?.... I would love to blame my soldering or lack of skills but i have been soldering electronics for over 25+ years.... just odd to have had 2 dead ones.... could be just my $h!t luck....

Edited by hauntfreaks, 12 January 2015 - 07:27 AM.

[Zablon]

Finally got around to ordering the parts for this and received them today. On to trying to not mess it up

[Spektre]

Hi
 
Thanks for sharing the code for this great project.
 
I've changed some code to get it to work with a slide potentiometer for the analog plunger instead of the CCD array:
 
http://www.ebay.com....tm/231268347558
 
It works out to be much cheaper.
 
I've still got a bit of tweaking to do but it looks like it will work out fine.
 
Has anyone else had a go at using something other than the CCD?
 
Thanks

That's great! I was about to fork the code to do this myself. I am planning to use this with my LVDT plunger.



Did you fork the code and is it available?