444 replies to this topic

[hotdp]

This is the first pin right (Goes to led wiz input 17 or 1):

 

Edited by hotdp, 30 December 2012 - 11:56 AM.

[zebulon]

Yup that is pin 1.

 

Instructions and ledwiz ini files are located in my signature below.

[Aurich]

This is me, re-wiring, because I did not read the right to left part very carefully.

[hotdp]

Hi,

Now that I have wired the board I need to know some FAQ and I hope its okay to ask them here (So others maybe can learn as well).

There might be some dump questions but I would just be 100% sure so I don't make any mistakes (or as few as possible):

• Led outputs have 350-700mA and a maximum of two led's pr. output. Does this mean that if I use one Led I should set it to 350mA and 700mA if I connect two?
• Will something like this be a good led: http://dx.com/p/3w-l...olored-rgb-4530
  • If, I can see that it need different voltages to the different colors. Do the board handle this for me?
  • "Note: each color channel is able to take a maximum of 350mA of current, thus a 1050mA combined current input and the 3W rating." This is way more than 350mA/700mA ?
• Contactors can I just wire them directly without any diode or anything?

[zebulon]

Hi,

 

No such thing as a dumb question.

 

The 350ma and 700ma refers to the type of led you are using. Having the board set to 350 and using 700ma leds is safe but reversing that (350ma leds on 700ma setting) risks blowing the leds.

 

The maximum of 2 leds per output allows for a safety margin for the traces on the boards. The are capable of handling more, but 2 sets is a safe amount (everyone is using different types so I can only design based on generic specs).

 

Whether you use one set of leds or two, the setting should be for the type of leds, not the amount. If you use the 1w (3x350ma) RGB leds, the setting should be for 350. Conversely, if using the 3w (3x700ma) RGB leds it should be on the 700 setting.

 

To add to the confusion, ebay listings are all over the map as to how they describe the leds. Some list 1w and 3w, some list them at 5w and 9w. It all comes down to whether they are describing the power rating of one colour on the led or all 3. The safest bet is to look at the actual mA rating in the description.

 

For those who are interested, I'm tossing around the idea of running off some pre-wired 5 RGB led light bars that can be mounted inside of the backbox or on top of it to make it easier for builders to source out these parts and ensure that they continue to work with the boards.

 

Hope this helps. 

 

 

Noticed I missed answering your question about the listing....Yes they will work.

Edited by zebulon, 31 December 2012 - 03:04 PM.

[zebulon]

http://http://youtu.be/7X4sC7nUS5A

 

A boring video of the testing procedure for the flasher board. Each board goes through a Negative and Positive, OFF and ON testing phase using an actual RGB Led (3W).

 

Plans are in place to make an actual lightbar and to build a test circuit that will step through the leds and then flash all the outputs.....I'll get to that one day when I have some spare time....

[hotdp]

For those who are interested, I'm tossing around the idea of running off some pre-wired 5 RGB led light bars that can be mounted inside of the backbox or on top of it to make it easier for builders to source out these parts and ensure that they continue to work with the boards.

 

How would they look and what would the price be?

 

You missed one of my many questions:

"Contactors can I just wire them directly without any diode or anything?" ?

[zebulon]

Sorry about that, completely missed it.

 

Yes, you wire the contactors and motors to the board without any diodes, all the diodes are pre-installed on the boards.

 

 Contactor Wiring.png   5.96KB   81 downloads

 

 

As for the LED bar, I'm still waiting on the parts to make the prototype.

[hotdp]

Sorry about that, completely missed it.

 

Yes, you wire the contactors and motors to the board without any diodes, all the diodes are pre-installed on the boards.

 

Contactor Wiring.png

 

 

As for the LED bar, I'm still waiting on the parts to make the prototype.

 

Thanks :-)

[zebulon]

No problem......

[tonyk26]

Hey Zeb,

 

I finished wiring my flashers, strobe and knocker last night to the boards.

They work great, very easy process.

 

I need a bit of help adjusting the voltage on the DC amplifer to increase the knocker strength.

I think i have a Williams knocker, and its mounted in the vertical "up" fireing position.

Whenthe knocker fires the metal rod in the middle is only comming up about less than 1cm, not enough for a knock.

i am measuring 19v across the knocker.

Is there somewhere on the board in can meaure the voltage produced from the amplifier and adjust it?

 

PS.

The rod in my knocker is metal with a plastic end about 2cm long - what is the correct way to have the rod? metal end or platic end firing "out"

 

 

Thanks

[zebulon]

Hi Tony,

 

you can measure the output of the knocker at the knocker output terminal (+) and (-)

 

If the amp needs to be adjusted, rotate the screw at the back of the amp on the top of the blue varister clockwise while measuring the output until you get to 32v. Do not go higher than 32v or you will blow the output for the contactors. Once you have adjusted the knocker voltage, you will have to adjust the contactor voltage.

 

All of this is covered in the instructions that can be downloaded from the link in my signature below.

 

I have no idea about the knocker orientation, I've never owned a williams machine but I would imagine that the metal end would make more noise.

[tonyk26]

edit

 

everything is fine,

I changed the mounting of my knocker so it almost touching the cab

It Sounds amazing now.

 

Your boards are working perfectly

Edited by tonyk26, 25 January 2013 - 09:46 AM.

[zebulon]

Sounds like you have a 50v knocker. You did the right thing, adjust the knocker so that the throw isn't as long and it will work.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

[nebrunner]

Package arrived today, thanks.  The LED bar looks real nice, you did a good job. Where is a good place to mount the motor/wiper board and how much room should I allow on each side of it?

 

 

One piece in the package was broken in shipping, not too sure what it did :

 

[zebulon]

That's the shroud for the shaker motor....I'll ship you a new one. I'm going to have to start shipping them flat as they keep breaking in shipping.

 

I'll get another one in the mail 1st thing Monday. the flat black Philips screws at the side of the shaker base held it in place.

 

I'd put the shaker and gear motor close to the front of the cab for the best effect. If possible, I'd put the shaker end close to the side of the cab (once you have the new shroud in place the side of the cab and the shroud would stop the counterweight in the unlikely event it ever came off the motor).

[nebrunner]

ok thanks, I need to read through this 14 page thread again!  Theres probably a picture (first page?) that shows what that piece of plastic should look like when attached.

[zebulon]

Your in the wrong thread for that.....

 

http://www.vpforums....ic=22122&page=2

[Tom1965]

Hi Zeb,can the strobe bar be easily integrated with the first version of the booster board? As I already have a shaker and gear motor.

Thanks

[zebulon]

Hi Tom,

 

You mean the ledbar? Sure it can. It takes up 15 of your outputs as each led uses 1 for red, 1 for green and 1 for blue. Once you've allotted those outputs though, you can add up to 4 of the lightbars to the original boards (although I can't see why anyone would want to...)