192 replies to this topic

[Keroppi]

SUCCESS! I dunno why the backlight output was only reading 1.5V, but I did a Hail Mary and got it to boot up!

 

I had checked for 12V, but I DIDN'T verify which lines. Per this video: Legends Pinball troubleshoot repair service guide the board side pinout is (for posterity's sake):

 

___

| o | GND

| o | GND

| o | GND

| o | 3.3V

| o | 12V   

| o | 12V

 

___

| o | 12V

| o | 12V

| o | 12V   <<< was reading 0V !

| o | 12V

| o | GND

| o | GND

| o | GND

| o | GND

 

...I had reseated the connectors numerous times. I remembered what you mentioned that they were planed together at the power supply side, so I simply spliced it into the 12V line next to it, and it all came to life. This is why pinouts are important, sometimes it's the simplest things.

 

@Tesla, thanks again for all your help!

[Tesla]

The AtGames Legends Pinball SMPS is a "open-frame" Saqcn SDL-125c 

 

Product Name: SDL-125C

Specifications: Boost two-in-one power board output 12V-6A + backlight with jumper cap to support liquid crystal products within 65 inches

Product size: 180*100*16

Rated power: 150W

Efficiency: 88%

Over Voltage Protection, Over Current, Short Circuit Protection

 

Input voltage: AC 90~264V

DC output voltage 1: DC 12v @ 6-Amps

DC output voltage 2: DC 40-60V @ 480-mA

 

 

 

 

Notice the voltages written on top and bottom of PCB.

 

Zoom-in to see the sets of connector-pins clearly shorted-together. That is why I think there is just really only one "12-volt rail". I think the black 0-R or 0-Ohm Resistors are basically acting-like solid-wire-jumpers.

Edited by Tesla, 04 April 2026 - 01:54 AM.

[Tesla]

 

SUCCESS!...  got it to boot up!

 

I simply spliced it into the 12V line next to it, and it all came to life. 

 

 

The Power-Supply started working or ... the whole ALP-cabinet booted-up, started working and "came to life"?

[Keroppi]

 

 

The Power-Supply started working or ... the whole ALP-cabinet booted-up, started working and "came to life"?

 

 

The whole machine...but it was short lived. Everything worked for ~2 minutes until I logged in. After I logged in, it kept popping up with a leaderboard error that I couldn't dismiss (typical atgames garbage) so I factory reset it.

Bad move.

It restored the firmware (looked successful), rebooted and...dead. First reboot showed splash screens...then after ~30 seconds it went to cycling colors on both screens (no signal)...I left it for 20 minutes before eventually power cycling it.

Next reboot: nothing but black screens. All voltages are still good, backlight on the screen is on still. Factory reset killed the board. FML.

 

So...how much you want for your old board?

[Tesla]

 

 

 

The Power-Supply started working or ... the whole ALP-cabinet booted-up, started working and "came to life"?

 

 

1. The whole machine...but it was short lived. Everything worked for ~2 minutes until I logged in.

 

2. After I logged in, it kept popping up with a leaderboard error that I couldn't dismiss (typical atgames garbage)

 

3. so I factory reset it.

 

4. Bad move.

 

5. It restored the firmware (looked successful), rebooted and...dead. First reboot showed splash screens...then after ~30 seconds it went to cycling colors on both screens (no signal)...I left it for 20 minutes before eventually power cycling it.

 

6. Next reboot: nothing but black screens. All voltages are still good, backlight on the screen is on still. Factory reset killed the board. FML.

 

7. So...how much you want for your old board?

 

 

1. Cool.

 

2. Hmm... Were you "logged in" with your account and WiFi was Enabled and connected?

 

3. I wonder what that does? I never tried it.

 

I did play/use mine for real for many months (it was actually pretty good). It was my first actual VP-cabinet play and some tables were pretty fun (like Rescue-911). To play VPX with real computer, I occasionally switched it into OTG-Mode.

 

4. Bummer

 

5. Mine is a Model:HA8819 . My old notes say:

Firmware:

In 12-2021 it Shipped with: v10970-A21

In 1-2023: Upgraded to: v5.68.0 

 

6. Weird. I never had any problems like that.

 

7. $1 plus shipping. Mine has the (non-standard wired) HDMI cable that goes up to the backbox-monitor. Guys on Reddit says that means it is v2.

[Keroppi]

2. Yes...that is what actually caused the main issue. It's evidently a known issue going on right now:

 

7. That is AWESOME man, I greatly appreciate it! Mine is also the HDMI but not HDMI. Let me know how to send you some coin!

[Tesla]

then after ~30 seconds it went to cycling colors on both screens (no signal)...I left it for 20 minutes before eventually power cycling it.

Next reboot: nothing but black screens. All voltages are still good, backlight on the screen is on still. Factory reset killed the board. FML.

 

 

I will PM you about getting my ALP main-board to you. If you really want to get your ALP running as stock again, I will try to help you. This main-board was always meant for someone who could actually use it, to make their whole cabinet work again as factory original. You are the first to ask for it, and fair-is-fair. I am also a proponent of returning whole-machines back to working order (and not just stripping them or sending to landfill).

 

That said ... if there is any way you can also get YOUR mainboard working, I think you should pursue it. After checking eBay and Amazon, looks like mine might be one of the last ones is existence (I see none listed anywhere, which I think is rather strange). I also read a forum-post that said AtGames wanted the guy's old defective-one back. That tells me they aren't making any more and wanted to refurbish it (for resale or warranty purposes).

 

Whatever is going on with your power-supply, cables, pins, or headers ... I suggest you repair that properly now (and test with meter, etc.). These boards are likely fairly delicate (in various ways) so they need good power and are not likely tolerant of any hacks or short-circuits.

 

---------------------

 

Verified Fix for cycling-colors is apparently:

 

https://www.reddit.c..._factory_reset/

 

==========================

 

To factory reset an AtGames Legends Pinball (HD or 4k), turn the machine off, press and hold the left flipper button and left nudge button simultaneously, then turn the machine on while holding both buttons for 10-15 seconds until a prompt appears. Press Start to initiate the reset. 

 

Steps for Factory Reset (HD/4KP):

Power Off: Turn the power switch off (underneath the cabinet).

Hold Buttons: Press and hold both the left flipper and left nudge buttons.

Power On: Turn the power on while continuing to hold the buttons.

Confirm Reset: Release buttons when a menu appears, then press the start button to confirm. 

 

Important Notes:

Data Loss: This clears all settings and reverts firmware, which may require a new update.

Hard Reset: If the machine is frozen, unplug it for at least 30 seconds.

4K Specific: If the screen remains black, it may require checking the video cable connection to the motherboard. 

Edited by Tesla, 06 April 2026 - 05:29 AM.

[Keroppi]

Yeah I definitely would like to get it back in order and keep it stock. 

 

I did open a ticket, but I don't expect a useful response. I have tried everything possible to get this board going again, short of wiring I2C up to it and probing around. It doesn't even initialize the monitor/get to splash screen, so I don't think even the bootloader is initializing.

 

I just think it's a heck of a coincidence that it was fine and reverting the firmware did it in...I have asked around on the message boards, and I am not the only one this happened to (died after factory reset/revert) but the answer was "buy a new board"

 

The color bars I read a few people having happen (and sometimes only to one monitor), but in most cases it was indicative of a dying board...a couple were loose cables, I have only read a couple that didn't end up replacing the board.

 

The power is all fine now, it was just that one 12V pin open (I suspect broken cable internally) and everything meters out fine now.

[Tesla]

1. Yeah I definitely would like to get it back in order and keep it stock. 

 

2. I don't think even the bootloader is initializing.

 

3. I just think it's a heck of a coincidence that it was fine and reverting the firmware did it in..

 

4. I am not the only one this happened to (died after factory reset/revert) but the answer was "buy a new board"

 

5. The color bars I read a few people having happen (and sometimes only to one monitor), but in most cases it was indicative of a dying board...a couple were loose cables, I have only read a couple that didn't end up replacing the board.

 

6. The power is all fine now, it was just that one 12V pin open (I suspect broken cable internally) and everything meters out fine now.

 

1. Acknowledged ... and I'm on-board with helping you on that effort.

 

2. Interesting. AFAICT, it's suppose to work like a "un-brick-able router". Master-Reset installs the default boot-loader. Get it working and then re-apply your firmware-upgrades.

 

3. Yeah, well ... I never tried it. Never had a reason-to. Now that I hear about it, it seems too extreme and I've bricked my share of computers in my days to know that any firmware upgrade is a dice-roll.

 

4. Lame.

 

5. The one I linked above said it worked fine. It's my impression that the base-set of 10 Gottlieb tables is burned into rom (so you'll have some good tables to play initially like I did). 

 

6. Good and thank you for doing that. Just trying to help advise and I think you only get like one more chance to get your ALP to work.

[Tesla]

OK, I found my old ALP Main-Board (I knew it was here somewhere, packed-away safely).

 

To the right of the black heatsink it says on the PCB: HA8819-MB-v2.6 (T=1.2mm 20210602).

That seems to match the real model-number, and it's likely a revision v2.6 main-board.

 

I also see a little reset switch above the heat-sink (that I never noticed before)

In your research, did anyone speak of it?

Since yours is already broken ... maybe try pressing-it, maybe try holding it, maybe try pressing it while powering-on whole cabinet.

Edited by Tesla, 06 April 2026 - 08:03 PM.

[Keroppi]

Haha, great minds...I had in fact tried all of the above options with that little silver button. I even tried different combinations of with and without the CMOS battery as well.

[Tesla]

OK, my old AtGames Legends Pinball main-board (HA8819-MB-v2.6 ) is on it's way to you. He said it should be there in a couple of days.

 

Not to be Captain-Obvious, but please remember to take your time installing it. Be very careful with it as it might be the last working-one in the USA. 

 

I would suggest NOT resetting it or messing with the firmware. As I posted above, it should already have a good-working firmware on it.

 

I'm thinking just erase my login-name (if you see it), and use YOUR account instead. I didn't mess with "removing my account" from it or anything like that.

Edited by Tesla, 08 April 2026 - 04:56 AM.

[Tesla]

@Keroppi said he got my old AtGames Main-Board, installed it in his cabinet (swapped for his bad-one), and it worked fine.

 

He said his cabinet is back in working order.

So, we brought another ALP back from the dead.

 

IIRC, the stock ALP is not so bad... its not VPX-8.0 but I think it's FarSight Studios (of TPA fame) game-engine running on some adequate proprietary hardware.

Mine shipped with 10 or so Gottlieb tables (including Rescue-911 and other famous ones).

Edited by Tesla, 16 April 2026 - 03:15 AM.