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LedWiz Booster Board
Started By
zebulon
, Feb 17 2012 12:28 PM
444 replies to this topic
#183
Posted 06 October 2012 - 04:28 PM
You don't need the 12v on the banks leading into the ledwiz, and you need to power the 5v and connect the ground on the booster board but the connections from the led wiz to the booster seem correct. You'll need resistors on the rgb leds or it will be the brightest, quickest flash that you'll see from them.
Glad to hear the board arrived ok.
Glad to hear the board arrived ok.
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#185
Posted 06 October 2012 - 06:39 PM
Yes, you can use the ledwiz for output and the booster for the rest with no issues. Good luck with the build!!
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#186
Posted 06 October 2012 - 06:53 PM
thank you zebulon.
I present my project here later. Here where I am => http://www.gamoover....p?topic=25998.0
I present my project here later. Here where I am => http://www.gamoover....p?topic=25998.0
Edited by vulbas, 06 October 2012 - 06:54 PM.
#187
Posted 14 October 2012 - 07:47 PM
Zebulon: I hooked up almost everything using the booster board and LEDWiz. I couldn't get the LEDWiz to drive the booster board until I connected the LEDWiz ground to the booster board's ground. I understand that the use of the octocouplers will isolate the circuits completely, but doesn't their need to be a common ground for the octocouplers and that ground connected to the ground of the LEDWiz? There are 4 ground connections on the booster board. Are they all electrically identical? (I didn't test myself and I don't want to disconect to check.)
Assuming I'm wrong, how do you avoid a floating ground between the LEDWiz and booster board? I was measuring large negative voltages at the LEDWiz outputs before I grounded the LEDWiz to be the same common as the booster board.
One more thing. compnents that take a lot of current like the contactors, and wiper motor, etc. cause the LED on the booster board to dim. What gauge wire should I be using?
Assuming I'm wrong, how do you avoid a floating ground between the LEDWiz and booster board? I was measuring large negative voltages at the LEDWiz outputs before I grounded the LEDWiz to be the same common as the booster board.
One more thing. compnents that take a lot of current like the contactors, and wiper motor, etc. cause the LED on the booster board to dim. What gauge wire should I be using?
#188
Posted 15 October 2012 - 03:50 PM
Hey Bent,
I answered you in your pm.
Thanks!
I answered you in your pm.
Thanks!
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#190
Posted 16 October 2012 - 03:43 PM
Hi vulbas,
Yes, you need to supply both 5v and 12v to the booster board in order for it to work.
Yes, you need to supply both 5v and 12v to the booster board in order for it to work.
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#191
Posted 18 October 2012 - 06:32 PM
New design for the boards.
Unfortunately the increased size of the pcb has increased the manufacturing cost. These are $225/pr but, they eliminate the need for multiple supplies, in fact, you can run the average cab off of a spare 300w atx power supply that plugs directly into the mainboard.
Resistors and diodes are included onboard for the motors and leds.
Cab Builder Bare.png 27.28KB
104 downloads
Lighting Rev 1.6 Bare.png 370.24KB
90 downloads
Unfortunately the increased size of the pcb has increased the manufacturing cost. These are $225/pr but, they eliminate the need for multiple supplies, in fact, you can run the average cab off of a spare 300w atx power supply that plugs directly into the mainboard.
Resistors and diodes are included onboard for the motors and leds.
Cab Builder Bare.png 27.28KB
104 downloads
Lighting Rev 1.6 Bare.png 370.24KB
90 downloads
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#192
Posted 18 October 2012 - 07:38 PM
hello,
I plugged my RGBW LED on the booster board. is it normal that the LED of the card decreases? when I open all ports on the card with the software lumiaudio the rgb led turns off. I use a 12v 7A power, is that okay? I think it is too little.
hello,
j'ai branché mes led rgbw sur la booster board . est ce normal que la led de la carte diminue ? quand j'ouvre tous les ports de la carte avec le logiciel lumiaudio, les led rgb s'eteigne. j'utilise une alimentation de 12v 7A, est ce que ça va ? je pense que c'est trop peu.
I plugged my RGBW LED on the booster board. is it normal that the LED of the card decreases? when I open all ports on the card with the software lumiaudio the rgb led turns off. I use a 12v 7A power, is that okay? I think it is too little.
hello,
j'ai branché mes led rgbw sur la booster board . est ce normal que la led de la carte diminue ? quand j'ouvre tous les ports de la carte avec le logiciel lumiaudio, les led rgb s'eteigne. j'utilise une alimentation de 12v 7A, est ce que ça va ? je pense que c'est trop peu.
#193
Posted 18 October 2012 - 09:16 PM
Hi vulbas,
yes, the led on the board will flicker under normal operation, it indicates the signals are being passed to the board. It is inline on the power running the optos so under full load and steady signal it will dim to nearly nothing. As long as your leds on the cabinet are working, everything is running as it should.
If you are using 700ma cree leds then you probably want a 15a power supply to run 5 of them.
Salut vulbas,
oui, la led sur la carte clignote en fonctionnement normal, il indique que les signaux sont transmis au conseil d'administration. Il est en ligne sur le pouvoir d'exécution des optocoupleurs sorte à pleine charge et signal stable il s'éteint progressivement pour presque rien. Tant que vos leds sur le boîtier sont de travail, tout fonctionne comme il se doit.
Si vous utilisez 700ma leds cree alors vous voudrez probablement une alimentation 15a de courir 5 d'entre eux.
yes, the led on the board will flicker under normal operation, it indicates the signals are being passed to the board. It is inline on the power running the optos so under full load and steady signal it will dim to nearly nothing. As long as your leds on the cabinet are working, everything is running as it should.
If you are using 700ma cree leds then you probably want a 15a power supply to run 5 of them.
Salut vulbas,
oui, la led sur la carte clignote en fonctionnement normal, il indique que les signaux sont transmis au conseil d'administration. Il est en ligne sur le pouvoir d'exécution des optocoupleurs sorte à pleine charge et signal stable il s'éteint progressivement pour presque rien. Tant que vos leds sur le boîtier sont de travail, tout fonctionne comme il se doit.
Si vous utilisez 700ma leds cree alors vous voudrez probablement une alimentation 15a de courir 5 d'entre eux.
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#194
Posted 18 October 2012 - 10:17 PM
thank you for your help zebulon,
I use 3 led cree 700ma RGBW. I have a 12v 10A power supply is going to happen. I think it's going to go.
merci de ton aide zebulon,
j'utilise 3 led cree rgbw 700ma. j'ai une alim de 12v 10A qui va arriver. je pense que ça va aller.
I use 3 led cree 700ma RGBW. I have a 12v 10A power supply is going to happen. I think it's going to go.
merci de ton aide zebulon,
j'utilise 3 led cree rgbw 700ma. j'ai une alim de 12v 10A qui va arriver. je pense que ça va aller.
#195
Posted 10 November 2012 - 01:48 PM
Received the latest revision boards yesterday and have started assembling for testing. Fingers crossed that all works as planned....
Whitby-20121109-00486.jpg 162.38KB
83 downloads
Whitby-20121109-00491.jpg 187.58KB
126 downloads
Whitby-20121110-00493.jpg 158.85KB
110 downloads
Whitby-20121109-00486.jpg 162.38KB
83 downloads
Whitby-20121109-00491.jpg 187.58KB
126 downloads
Whitby-20121110-00493.jpg 158.85KB
110 downloads
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#198
Posted 10 November 2012 - 03:10 PM
Thanks guys!!! Just finished testing the contactor/motor control board and it works like a charm!!
Still have to get the smd resistors on the flasher board to test it but really expect no issues there.
Starting to look like a simplified wiring process for cabs.....
Still have to get the smd resistors on the flasher board to test it but really expect no issues there.
Starting to look like a simplified wiring process for cabs.....
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......
#200
Posted 10 November 2012 - 03:36 PM
The new boards with resistors are running off of 3.3v from the atx power supply. The resistors on the boards are 2W and the values are 1R 2W and 3R3 2W. When the selection is made for 700mA flashers, the resistance for the red flashers drops to 1R6 2W.
Using less voltage to power the leds means less wasted energy in the form of heat.
Using less voltage to power the leds means less wasted energy in the form of heat.
Don't pm or expect an answer from me here ... the links above are my contacts.
I know so much about so little that I could teach you all there is to know about nothing......


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