31 replies to this topic

[sc204]

In ealy 2015 I built a widebody virtual pin from scratch.  https://www.vpforums...ic=30224&page=1

Measurements taken from a Williams STTNG that I had just restored  https://pinside.com/...ng-next-chapter

 

I used a 46" 1080P 60 hz monitor installed in a routed channel in the cabinet.   Thew computer was ancient by todays standards.  Probably a series 500 or 600 graphics card.

As I generally update my desktop computer every few years mostly dependent on purchasing a newer more demanding VR headset I had several more recent computer motherboards/graphics cards to use instead.

Some pictures taken from the build in early 2015

 

Edited by sc204, 25 January 2026 - 08:14 PM.

[sc204]

Biggest changes I want to make are obviously the computer.  This will be upgraded to either a 3080 or 4090 graphics card.  The computer tray will need to be modified to support the liquid cooler, otherwise will stay the same.  The next biggest change is the playfield monitor.  I want to go to 4K and 120 hz or higher refresh rate.  Choices were 42" OLED, high end 43" Samsung LCD (the only one that is 120 hz refresh rate) or a 48" OLED.  Unfortunately 46" is no longer produced.  Initially I was going to go with the 43" Samsung on a lift out tray, as this would be the easiest to do but the thought of going to a smaller playfield made me want to fit the 48" instead.  I could always return it if I couldn't make it work   Price was essentially the same, about $900 for the 90 series  43" Samsung or the LG 48" C5.

 

The bezel on the 48" LG is much smaller than the older 46" Samsung but still ends up a few millimeters wider requiring a little deeper slot on each side.  

The bottom of the LG is quite wide due to the speakers being there.  So they needed to be removed.  Pretty easy to remove the back  cover and speakers.   2 small boards, the on off switch and I believe the RF receiver needed to be moved from the bottom.  The stand brace was also removed as was 2 standoffs that the back cover screws onto.  The resulting exposed TV edges are quite thin.  Unlike the older Samsumg with thick edges I would not trust supporting the TV by the thin screen alone.  A rear support attached to the Vesa mounts is definitely warranted.

 

 

Edited by sc204, 30 December 2025 - 09:02 PM.

[Tesla]

1. Measurements taken from a Williams STTNG that I had just restored  https://pinside.com/...ng-next-chapter

 

2. In ealy 2015 I built a widebody virtual pin from scratch.  https://www.vpforums...ic=30224&page=1

 

I used a 46" 1080P 60 hz monitor installed in a routed channel in the cabinet.   Thew computer was ancient by todays standards.  Probably a series 500 or 600 graphics card.

As I generally update my desktop computer every few years mostly dependent on purchasing a newer more demanding VR headset I had several more recent computer motherboards/graphics cards to use instead.

Some pictures taken from the build in early 2015

 

 

1. Awesome thread. I almost bought a Star Trek - TNG machine about 20-years ago (would have been my first actual pinball-machine) for $2000, but the deal fell-thru. Took me like 15-years to come-up with even a virtual cabinet (what I have now).

 

As I was reading it, I was thinking "that would be a lot like building one of my gas-powered RC airplanes" ... and then I saw yours. I just fly drones now.

 

2. Looks nice (very "clean" neat, and tidy). 

 

Yeah, that's what I do ... computers for pinball-cabinets, upright-arcades, (or Kodi boxes) ... are usually my old (but still good) gaming/dev-class computers re-assigned to a new secondary-role.

[sc204]

 

1. Measurements taken from a Williams STTNG that I had just restored  https://pinside.com/...ng-next-chapter

 

2. In ealy 2015 I built a widebody virtual pin from scratch.  https://www.vpforums...ic=30224&page=1

 

I used a 46" 1080P 60 hz monitor installed in a routed channel in the cabinet.   Thew computer was ancient by todays standards.  Probably a series 500 or 600 graphics card.

As I generally update my desktop computer every few years mostly dependent on purchasing a newer more demanding VR headset I had several more recent computer motherboards/graphics cards to use instead.

Some pictures taken from the build in early 2015

 

 

1. Awesome thread. I almost bought a Star Trek - TNG machine about 20-years ago (would have been my first actual pinball-machine) for $2000, but the deal fell-thru. Took me like 15-years to come-up with even a virtual cabinet (what I have now).

 

As I was reading it, I was thinking "that would be a lot like building one of my gas-powered RC airplanes" ... and then I saw yours. I just fly drones now.

 

2. Looks nice (very "clean" neat, and tidy). 

 

Yeah, that's what I do ... computers for pinball-cabinets, upright-arcades, (or Kodi boxes) ... are usually my old (but still good) gaming/dev-class computers re-assigned to a new secondary-role.

 

 

Yup main hobby is R/C pattern precision aerobatics.  In fact the main reason for the VR setup was to fly planes on the computer with a program callerd RealFlight that now does VR.

[sc204]

The original monitor was mounted angled down in the back.  As the tables improved even years ago I thought that I might have made an error with that choice and decided that the new setup should be parallel to the glass.

This meant that a new slot would need to be cut on each side.  In order to not weaken the cabinet unneccessarily I decided to fill in the old slots.  

 

 

 

As the monitor would need to slide in through the back I had to open up the upper rear of the cabinet to get the slot where I needed it.  The monitor would need to slide in as high as possibnle in the rear of the cabinet.

 

 

 

 

I only needed a 1/4" slot for the new monitor but obviously it is much tougher to cut on an assembled cabinet as opposed to routing a slot on a flat piece of ply.  The center was easy to cut with a router running along a straight edge but the router could not get to the rear or all the way foward.  For the front inch or 2 I just used a Dremel tool with a few different bits to make the slot.  The rear was more difficult as it had to extend all the way out the back of the cabinet.  I used a Roto Zip with an angle attachment and a small circular saw blade to get close to the inside edge.  A little "wonky" but it worked.  

 

 

 

 

 

The monitor is 26mm wider than the inside of the cabinet so I set the slot to 13.5mm deep to give a little leeway.  It worked out OK

Edited by sc204, 30 December 2025 - 09:39 PM.

[sc204]

There were a few bare wood spots that would now be visable near the front of the cabinet were the old slot was filled in.  Amazingly I still had the paint over 10 years old in a "Ball" mason jar that was still good.  The paint was a mix of Rustoleum Black and Blue.

 

[Tesla]

1. Biggest changes I want to make are obviously the computer.  This will be upgraded to either a 3080 or 4090 graphics card.  The computer tray will need to be modified to support the liquid cooler, otherwise will stay the same.

 

2. A rear support attached to the Vesa mounts is definitely warranted.

 

 

 

1. Yeah, I only run Nvidia-cards now-days. Good to see someone else using radiators and Liquid-Coolers. My gaming-class computer sits underneath my cabinet.

 

2. When I first upgraded from 1080p to a LG 75Hz 1440p monitor, I just laid it on the cabinet's horizontal supports (not de-cased as the bezels and case are very thin). I was a lot of work recently, but it felt much better removing it and installing a proper (thin wall) steel VESA mount. It's properly supported and bolted-down now (but adjustable and removable if I must). There are pics in my build-thread,

[Tesla]

 Amazingly I still had the paint over 10 years old in a "Ball" mason jar that was still good.  The paint was a mix of Rustoleum Black and Blue.

 

 

 

Nice.

 

I recently used Jet-Black Model Airplane Dope

 

https://www.vpforums...=51113&p=548965

Edited by Tesla, 30 December 2025 - 09:55 PM.

[sc204]

Other updates planned for the game.  SSF is new since my build and I am going to add this in.  Unfortunately my current speakers are Bose Companion 5 computer speakers that are self powered and are fed from a USB port.  Doesn't look like there is any way to get them as part of a 7.1 system.  They soulnd great and are my preferred desktop speakers for my computer but will be replaced witha standard backbox sub speaker setup powered through an amplifier from a 7.1 card or direct from thje motherboard audio outs.

 

In addition I am going to rplace my plunger set uip which is an older Virtua plunger setup on a KL25Z board.  The board had issues since purchased often disconnectiog and needing to be reset.  I think it is a USB connector issue.  I 3D printed printed parts to connect a linear pot to my real plunger.  And I am going to switch the the Cleavland Software control board.  My "toys" are all hooked up through an early version of Zebs boards and an LED Wiz and seems to still work fine so I will stay with that.

 

 Amazingly I still had the paint over 10 years old in a "Ball" mason jar that was still good.  The paint was a mix of Rustoleum Black and Blue.

 

 

 

Nice.

 

I recently used Jet-Black Model Airplane Dope

 

https://www.vpforums...=51113&p=548965

 

Been a few decades since I used model airplane Dope.

[Tesla]

Delete 

Edited by Tesla, 01 January 2026 - 05:28 PM.

[sc204]

I added a 3/4" Baltic Birch ply backer board to the playfield monitor attached to the TV rear Vesa mount.  This will ride on oak rails to support the monitor.  Unlike the prior install where the monitor was supported by the top and botom TV frame in the routed slots.  The monitor is not supported by the slots this time.

 

 

A stop block keeps the playfiels monitor where I want it.  Just reaching the top of the lockdown bar.

 

 

 

[Tesla]

Interesting design, so thanks for taking the time to post the pics. Looking-good.

 

The slide out computer tray (with those nice drawer-slides) is also nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your solution for AiO CPU-Cooler/Radiator.

 

So, with the large coin-door and those sliding out ... the glass can usually stay in place huh?

[sc204]

I didn't want to have to make a new rear door for the cabinet (actually I didn't want to set up to paint just for 1 part).  I was able to use the upper portion that I cut away to make room for the new monitor groove gluing it to the existing door.  A few "dominoes" were added for strength.  The draw hasps had to mount to the sides instead of upward now.

 

 

Regarding the computer tray I moved the computer mount a bit forward from where it was to make room for the AIO cooler and still have room to plug in the monitors.   A simple plywood mount was attached to the rear of the tray for the AIO cooler.  I also updated the power supply that powers the Pinovation boards and all the toys.  Again from an old computer build the power supply has modular cables, so I was able to get rid of a few of the extras that were just wrapped up before.  

Once I get the new controller board from Cleveland Software Design I will rewire some of the connections and add some plugs so that everything is seperable from the computer area.  

 

 

 

Edited by sc204, 03 January 2026 - 09:40 PM.

[Tesla]

 

Regarding the computer tray I moved the computer mount a bit forward from where it was to make room for the AIO cooler and still have room to plug in the monitors.   A simple plywood mount was attached to the rear of the tray for the AIO cooler.  

 

 

 

 

The radiator at 90-degrees, exhausting out the back ... appears to be a viable-solution ... and the likely evolution of your existing design.

 

Your wooden frame is professional-looking.

[sc204]

Waiting for some parts to arrive.  Hopefully most will be here this week.  

I decided to "play" a little and add a coin door coin return switches.  Just in case I don't want to set all the games to free play.  Gives me a chance to use my 3D printer and some 3D modeling which I am just learning.  

Nice to print something that you can actually use.  

I know that there are some switch mounts that people have already made and uploaded to the 3D modeling sites if you don't have any 3D modeling experience.

 

 

I did have to bend the switch actuator arm a bit to make it work.

 

 

 

[robertms]

I did have to bend the switch actuator arm a bit to make it work.

 

Which micro-switches did you use?

[sc204]

 

I did have to bend the switch actuator arm a bit to make it work.

 

Which micro-switches did you use?

 

 

https://www.amazon.c...asin_title&th=1

 

Can't complain about the price.

Edited by sc204, 06 January 2026 - 10:04 PM.

[sc204]

Finally got most of the parts needed to continue the upgrade.  Took a little longer to get everything since I ordered right before the New Year.

From Cleavland Software I got their bare control board and SSF kit, and from Virtuapin a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers.

 

 

 

Edited by sc204, 09 January 2026 - 12:41 PM.

[sc204]

For this update I decided to go with a linear potentiometer on the plunger instead of the Virtuapin version that I had been using.  It was an earlier version and wasn't always reliable.  I printed some 3D parts I found on the Pinscape guide on this page http://mjrnet.org/pi...ide.php?sid=pot

The 10K linear potentiometer I am trying is from Amazon

http://mjrnet.org/pi...ide.php?sid=pot

 

 

First thing to get wired to the PinOne Control board

 

[sc204]

Time to get all the equipment installed/re-installed.  

My original speaker system had a seperate bass box which just sat in the cabinet.  I had a large hole in the bottom of the cabinet that was covered by a grill.  Much too big for the new 8" woofer.

 

I had to make a new speaker plate to cover that hole.  Circle template on a router to make the round cutout.

 

 

Edited by sc204, 10 January 2026 - 08:25 PM.