176 replies to this topic

[blackvulcan3]

Hey all, after sitting back for some time trying to find a cabinet in my part of the world (Far Northern Australia), I've worked out that getting any second hand cabinets will be as rare as rocking horse poo.

 

After investing in the computer and playing on my 55 inch with Pinball Arcade and FX2, I yearned for something more.  I've been dreaming of a cabinet build for some time, but the cabinet just never presented itself...until now.

 

I spoke with a local cabinetry place that does laser cutting. 212 Australian dollars later I have a slightly modified Williams Widebody cabinet being cut to size in 15mm plywood.

 

I am so thrilled to be starting this journey. I haven't set my mind on the play field screen yet, but somewhere around 42 inch will be my best guess. 

 

I have set a target (with full time work and 3 kids under 7) of the end of the year.

 

I have a long way to go before decals become an issue but I am torn, NBA Fastbreak (such an underrated pinball), Kiss, GNR or something more fun like Theatre of Magic.

 

I really look forward to putting some pics up (if I can work my subscription out). 

Edited by blackvulcan3, 21 April 2016 - 10:20 AM.

[DDH69]

Cane Toad decals? ..... just kidding 

 

Great to hear that you've got a build going.  Keen to follow how you go.

[blackvulcan3]

Haha. I have enough on my lawn tonight to do two cabinets.

[Nemo]

You must be pleased with that wood so nicely lasercut, can't wait to see a buildlog ....     

[nickbuol]

I remember many years ago (maybe 12 years ago) working with a local cabinet company to create MAME cabinets which was interesting.  I had to create everything in AutoCAD, but could get down to .001 of an inch with accuracy.  I was able to get the design set for $400USD, which included both 4 player and 2 player control panels with button holes cut, joystick areas routed thinner as needed, all joints either routed for biscuits or even dovetail connections, all CNC cut and the outside of the cabinet was finished with solid laminate in any choice of about 100 colors.  I would would think that a cut pinball cabinet would be a lot easier for them to do, and less holes to drill, etc.  I wonder what that same cabinet company I used years ago would charge today for a CNC cut cabinet?  Then again, flatpacks online are pretty cheap.  It would just be cool to get something completely custom made out of the box, so to speak.

 

Can't wait to see this build progress.

[blackvulcan3]

Hey Nickbuol, I did my first MAME cab and used a 38 inch upright cabinet as a donor. I used laser cut metal for the controls panel and one sheet bent to fit and laser cut cost more than this entire pinball cabinet with material.

 

Since I'm about 2000km (about 1240 miles) from the nearest capital city, the price to ship similar flat packs would be around $750 AUD ($450 online plus $300 shipping). 

 

I'm doing all the joins and pilot holes. 

 

I've wanted to buy all the parts for the machine separately but I'm thinking this http://virtuapin.net...&products_id=35 just looks too good to pass up on, even with the exchange rate.

[RustyCardores]

Hey Nickbuol, I did my first MAME cab and used a 38 inch upright cabinet as a donor. I used laser cut metal for the controls panel and one sheet bent to fit and laser cut cost more than this entire pinball cabinet with material.

 

Since I'm about 2000km (about 1240 miles) from the nearest capital city, the price to ship similar flat packs would be around $750 AUD ($450 online plus $300 shipping). 

 

I'm doing all the joins and pilot holes. 

 

I've wanted to buy all the parts for the machine separately but I'm thinking this http://virtuapin.net...&products_id=35 just looks too good to pass up on, even with the exchange rate.

 

What about delivery?

 

I got my bit's a pieces from GameDude, Mr Pinball & Oz-Stick... worked out quite well, but I wouldn't know how it compares to the above now, as I have long since hidden the receipts from the wife

[blackvulcan3]

Not sure what the delivery will be RustyCardores, I could source Aussie stuff and I have bought from OzStick before for my MAME build. The pack is an all in one solution but if around the same cost (or even a touch more) to buy local, I will.

[RustyCardores]

Not sure what the delivery will be RustyCardores, I could source Aussie stuff and I have bought from OzStick before for my MAME build. The pack is an all in one solution but if around the same cost (or even a touch more) to buy local, I will.

 

 

Good call... support Aussie business and all that.  re delivery, I have found that most times getting stuff out of the US is killed by the cost of freight. Especially so when it is a weighty, odd shaped or largish package.

[blackvulcan3]

So I went away for a week with the family and on Friday upon my return called the guys cutting my timber. Apparently they didn't get my "final" email with the measurements. So as this was a long weekend I had everything prepped to pre drill, counter sink the holes and prep the cab. Oh well, it should be ready by the end of the week. 

 

So I signed up for Silver tonight, not sure how long this process takes, but I will post a picture of the cab once I get it. I chose 15mm external ply in the end, this meant I had to change a few measurement to keep it original Williams Widebody externally but that was cool. I had thought about mounting the bottom of the cab and the rear of the back box on the outsides of each but have gone inside the cab, I prefer the look and I just wanted to keep the outsides as original as can be.

 

I have the ipac, buttons and wiring sorted, so that will be fun. I will be purchasing some leaf switches for the flippers, I really want to add some feedback (or DOF as the cool kids call it). I'm a launch button kinda guy so, for the first version of the build it will just have that.

 

I was interested as to some Australians (being 240v) setups for 2.1, did you choose car stereo 12v or just a 2.1 setup? If you went 2.1 what gave a nice punchy sound.  I can safely say that this unit will have music played from it also.

[RustyCardores]

I run the Logitech Z443 2.1 speaker system for the general sound.  The sound is pretty good. Mine also doubles a JukeBox and while it may not be of "audiophile" standards, it can still fill the room.

 

I went with these because I was on a budget, plus the satellites are rectangular and fit the backbox well. Also it has the Volume and Bass control on the front of the Sub and this was a big plus for me, as it could simplify the build. Ready access by just opening the coin door meant that there was no need to install other controls in the system somewhere.

 

For the mechanical sounds I use a secondary system. This is a very simple little 'BoomBox' vibrating driver... it's not a speaker, but a driver you stick to whatever you want and it makes that the speaker (it's great on your empty beer carton or esky when you are camping). I've attached it to the underside of my wooden lock bar (my lock bar doubles as a MAME control panel, so a normal lockbar was not suitable).  It sounds darn good for the mechanicals and because you have your hands directly on what is in effect the speaker, you get tactile feedback. You feel the flippers move, the ball drop or run on the wire ramp etc.... it's what I like to call "The Poor Man's DOF"

 

Here's a quick video of my JukeBox mode... 

Edited by RustyCardores, 04 May 2016 - 12:07 AM.

[blackvulcan3]

How good are those effects. Thats a party machine right there. I like that idea about the vibrating driver, I've seen them. Budget is good.

[RustyCardores]

How good are those effects. Thats a party machine right there. I like that idea about the vibrating driver, I've seen them. Budget is good.

 

My son just told me that I can daisy chain these BoomBoxes.... At the moment I just have one in the middle of the lock bar and while I can feel the effects at the side in flipper position, it is much stronger in the middle.  So it looks like one of my kids is about to lose their BoomBox so that I can have one each side right under my hands

 

EDIT: Nah I just tested one on the side. It's too strong. In the middle the feel is there without being OBVIOUSLY there.... and I think that's just the right amount.

Edited by RustyCardores, 04 May 2016 - 06:19 AM.

[DDH69]

I was interested as to some Australians (being 240v) setups for 2.1, did you choose car stereo 12v or just a 2.1 setup? If you went 2.1 what gave a nice punchy sound.  I can safely say that this unit will have music played from it also.

 

 

I've built two cabinets, both have 2 x 12vDC amplifiers with two sets of Fusion car speakers.  I get one audio input from the PC's sound out port, the other from one of the TV's audio out.  240VAC is not an issue if you use 12vDC amplifiers.  The amplifier units I've used were only a few dollars on eBay.

[blackvulcan3]

Got the wood today, the cuts are amazing. The ply....well, its pretty good, not perfectly straight for the cabinet bottom and sides but that should right itself with a thousand screws. 

 

Overall, vey happy with the decision not to cut it myself, they mitred the edges of the cabinet box so the measurements should be perfect. Mothers Day in Australia on Sunday so hopefully once my chores are done on Saturday I may get a chance to drill, screw and repeat.

 

I'm thinking 150mm spacing between each screw on the cabinet bottom, can anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't be enough?

Edited by blackvulcan3, 05 May 2016 - 08:52 AM.

[RustyCardores]

I went a little closer than that, but I also did my cabinet a bit different as I have 30mm square pine in all corners and also under all 4 sides of the cabinet bottom. see https://www.dropbox....h/pinballTV.jpg

 

These have been glued and screwed at intervals of about 120mm.

 

Having the base sit up into the cab 30mm gave me the space under to hide my LED light strips. That said, it now has disco lights under there and while these are quite large the recess still helps to hide them a bit. You have to be quite a way back from the machine (more than the room will allow) to see them.  Something I found out afterwards, is that the recess makes a really good handle when moving the machine.

 

The way I built mine might be a little overkill, but I wanted to make sure it was going to stay together, even with rough play. Plus I don't have a lot of confidence in the screwing into end grain... but that's just me.

Edited by RustyCardores, 05 May 2016 - 10:00 AM.

[blackvulcan3]

Looks good. Nice looking panel sitting in there too. 

[RustyCardores]

Looks good. Nice looking panel sitting in there too. 

 

40 inch Samsung ... it's great! Nice and fast, plus it has an excellent viewing angle, with no loss of contrast across the screen.  It also remembers that it was on and comes back on with cab power. I really wish I had put a 28 Samsung in the back box with this feature, as I have to use the remote each time for the one that's in there now. It's not a big deal, but just enough to bug me a little.

[Brer Frog]

I went a little closer than that, but I also did my cabinet a bit different as I have 30mm square pine in all corners and also under all 4 sides of the cabinet bottom. see https://www.dropbox....h/pinballTV.jpg

 

These have been glued and screwed at intervals of about 120mm.

 

Having the base sit up into the cab 30mm gave me the space under to hide my LED light strips. That said, it now has disco lights under there and while these are quite large the recess still helps to hide them a bit. You have to be quite a way back from the machine (more than the room will allow) to see them.  Something I found out afterwards, is that the recess makes a really good handle when moving the machine.

 

The way I built mine might be a little overkill, but I wanted to make sure it was going to stay together, even with rough play. Plus I don't have a lot of confidence in the screwing into end grain... but that's just me.

 

Since you are using 30mm square pine in the corners does that mean you are not using the internal metal brackets that the leg bolts attach to?

[RustyCardores]

 

I went a little closer than that, but I also did my cabinet a bit different as I have 30mm square pine in all corners and also under all 4 sides of the cabinet bottom. see https://www.dropbox....h/pinballTV.jpg

 

These have been glued and screwed at intervals of about 120mm.

 

Having the base sit up into the cab 30mm gave me the space under to hide my LED light strips. That said, it now has disco lights under there and while these are quite large the recess still helps to hide them a bit. You have to be quite a way back from the machine (more than the room will allow) to see them.  Something I found out afterwards, is that the recess makes a really good handle when moving the machine.

 

The way I built mine might be a little overkill, but I wanted to make sure it was going to stay together, even with rough play. Plus I don't have a lot of confidence in the screwing into end grain... but that's just me.

 

Since you are using 30mm square pine in the corners does that mean you are not using the internal metal brackets that the leg bolts attach to?

 

 

That's correct Mr Frog  .... I have aluminium angle covering the pine at where the leg bolts come through and then a washer and two locking nuts.  It was never my intention to be moving the machine to new locations, so easy removal of the legs was not a priority. At most it gets moved within the one room as I try different layouts.

 

If it were to become a issue, I could easily check out the pine so that those internal brackets could be used.

Edited by RustyCardores, 05 May 2016 - 11:06 PM.