8 replies to this topic

[HiRez00]

Greetings all,

I wanted to share my overall VP experience (thus far) and share my progression in this new found hobby (to me) that I thought perhaps some of you would perhaps benefit from if I went into overall detail and choice. I will also provide links to certain items that I found to work next for my projects.

Everything written here is although from multiple suggestions and resource still fall into my opinion and decisions, right or wrong, but my mistakes you might too benefit from so far.

Needless to say, it is a good story.

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PART I

I want to stat by saying that I am VERY new to the VP world and the Visual Pinball software itself.

I had heard about it (virtual pinball) and seen earlier versions as far back as VP8 and although I though it was neat, I didn't think it really looked that great.

Then, about 2 months ago, I saw a video on YouTube showing VPX, and needless to say, I was blown away with the image quality and game play.

I downloaded the VPX installer here on VPForums and installed in on an laptop to try it out myself. Even though I was only playing the "desktop" mode in VPX, I was impressed as hell.

It was then (and this was only 2 months ago) I wanted a VP cabinet and play all these great table full screen and full size.

I did some research and found plenty of diagrams, blue prints and schematics for building my own cabinet. Even though I am perfectly cable of building my own cabinet with the plans provided, I also looked into perhaps "buying" a finished cabinet from a professional pinball cabinet manufacturer.

Time was a the key factor. If I build a cabinet myself, with my work schedule and such and the actual time it would take to build a cabinet, it would take me probably 6 months to complete just the cabinet. Not to mention be fairly expensive (even though I would be building it myself) to order all the additional parts (legs, buttons, coin door, plunger, glass, trim, etc) from multiple sources.

I looked HARDER at buying a finished cabinet from a manufacturer. Not complete with monitors and computers installed, but a finished cabinet I could then wire and install the additional components myself. Plus "I" could actually learn about the required wiring and setup so I could update, add and do any maintenance required for maintaining a fully functional VP pinball. If I bought it ALL done, not only would that not be FUN, but I wouldn't know the first thing about how it worked or adding the necessary software updates, tables, roms, backlglass files, etc.

I was also working within a certain budget I was comfortable with.

There are several pinball cabinet building companies online, and all have completely different price ranges and "looks", which made the choices even harder because I wanted 3 main things, quality, authentic look, and price, and I examined best I could all the companies as to which could provide the best for my choices.

The only one I actually reached out and contacted was "VirtuaPin.net".

I sent an email with some questions, and "Paul" the owner emailed back and suggested I call him to discuss what I was asking because he could explain it better on the phone.

After a 30 minute conversation with Paul, and him explaining the process, what I would be getting and my choice options, I was ready to pull the trigger and place my order.

This is what I ordered:

1 x WPC-style Widebody Virtual Pinball Cabinet - Fully Trimmed
    Cabinet Art Packages None
    Cabinet Kit Addons Playfield Glass
    Cabinet Kit Addons Speaker Panel
    Cabinet Kit Addons Williams/Bally Coin Door
    Cabinet Kit Addons Button Package
    Cabinet Kit Addons Cabinet Protectors (Steel)
1 x VirtuaPin™ Digital Plunger Kit v3 (VPC-PlngrKit)
    Plunger Rods Black
1 x PinDMD v3 FULL COLOR Dot Matrix Display (PinDMD-3)
1 x Flipper Fidelity 5.25" Coaxial Speaker and Subwoofer Set (FF5inSet)

Over the next few weeks, I was updated as the status and progress to the stages of my cabinet being manufactured with a timeline and approximate delivery window so I could be ready for when the cabinet arrived I could start installing the final parts I was gathering in the meantime.

Paul and VirtuaPin.net was helpful about dimensions, suggestions on additional hardware, OS systems, etc so I could actually START the process BEFORE I got the cabinet and as soon as the actual cabinet arrived, I could get to work installing.

During that time period, I started assembling a brand new superfast "gaming" PC using the latest and greatest components. Although everyone was suggesting Windows 7 and Windows 8 OS for the PC, the prices of the newest hardware was LESS than the old hardware (particularly the main motherboard) that could ONLY run Windows 10.

Against others suggestion or Windows 7 or 8, I went with a system that would run Windows 10 with all the latest hardware, but I had an ace in the hole. A friend of mine who is an IT manager at a major company helped me with the Windows 10 install and SHUT OFF all the extra 'crap' that windows 10 is notorious for having built in that is intrusive and could potentially interrupt game play.

I couldn't begin to tell you what or how he did what he did, but not only is my system very fast, but I get no 'bog down', pop up alerts, or requests to connect with xbox or Microsoft. It runs like a dream and to this day I have had absolutely no issues (fingers crossed).

I installed VPX package onto the virgin system and started making my way through adding tables, roms, back glasses, PinballX front end, wheel images, and configuring everything to run perfect. Before the cabinet even arrived I had a couple hundred VPX (and some VP9) tables installed and ready to go.

For the main playfield monitor, I went with a TLC 4K 43" TV from Costco for $289. Remember, I hadn't received the cabinet yet and was still assembling my system parts, so I didn't want to commit to super expensive TV that I didn't even know if it would fit properly plus I don't like ordering TVs online unless I KNOW the model I want because they always seem to look different in person.

The TLC 4K is actually quite good and has a decent viewing angle even when rotated landscape / portrait. It was the best option at Costco for image quality, viewing angle, price and size. I actually stood there with a tape measure and measured the TV 20 times before committing. The TLC also has an equal border on all sided (i.e.: the bottom border isn't thicker than the sides or top) and there is only a very slim IR sensor / light the protrudes 1/8" out of the bottom center of the TV, so when I was going to mount the TV in the cab, it would be centered exactly.

For the the backglass monitor, I went with: BenQ GC2870H 28" 1080p Eye-Care Monitor, True 8-bit color, Low Blue Light, 20M:1 DCR, HDMI, VESA Ready (https://www.amazon.c...duct/B06XDSK4NN) for $179 from Amazon.

It was / is a highly rated monitor with screen buttons underneath the screen (side buttons would be a pain to ever get to when its mounted in the cabinet), and also has a nice even on all for 4 sides flat bezel. The VESA mount on the back made it really easy to install in the cabinet - approx 30 minutes and that time was spent making the bracket out of wood. Super clean image, bright and clear and perfect size for cab.

So ... The day arrived that the cabinet was going to delivered (after the delivery company wouldn't deliver on the friday before a holiday weekend and made me wait 4 extra days while it sat in a warehouse for the weekend ...

The anticipation was killing me slowly. Had I made the right decision buying a cabinet? Had it been damaged during shipping? Did anything inside get broken? Did I waste my money? All these thoughts were swimming in my head until ...

The truck arrived, and the driver pallet jacks out a 6 foot tall cardboard mass that is strapped to a full sized pallet and wrapped in multiple layers of shipping freight plastic wrap. After quick inspection, there were no dings or marks on the packaging what-so-ever, so I signed and we wheeled it up the driveway and transferred the mass to a furniture mover dolly so I could get it in the house.

I wheel it in the house and start removing the packaging (which was done very very very well I might add) including labels and "DO THIS FIRST" instructions cards so I wouldn't damage anything in the process.

Once all packaging was removed ... what I was looking at was what looked like a brand new pinball cabinet with the backbox folded down and standing upright (on it's back). There was a single band around the cabinet that was holding the backbox with a note that said "DO NOT RMOVE UNTIL CABINET IT STANDING ON LEGS". I still couldn't actually see the whole thing, but what I did see looked real real real good.

I unwrapped the legs and with the supplied bolts, attached them in what felt like seconds. I still hadn't been able to SEE the whole cabinet yet in its shipped position. I attached the front legs, tilted the cabinet down onto the legs, and propped the back of the cabinet on a stool that was taller than the back legs, attached the back legs, and then removed the stool. I removed the backbox band and lifted the backbox, locking it in place in the back, and stood back to take it all in ...

What stood before me was pure beauty. A PERFECT / BRAND NEW (CNC cut / milled / assembled) pinball cabinet with not a mark on it! This thing looked like it just rolled out of the Williams pinball factory 5 minutes before!

Upon complete inspection, I could not believe the quality of the workman / craftsmanship. Every single cut, detail, part, assembling was absolutely flawless! The materials uses at all to notch from the wood to the screws. Everything is SOLID and not flimsy. This thing is built to LAST!

I couldn't believe that I got this magnificent beast for the price I did ... then I thought, did I get the wrong one? Did they ship me someone else's who paid more?

The answer is "no" ... this was all mine - exactly what I paid for.

Sure I could have built this (right?). Sure I would have saved a few bucks (maybe) or completely blown my budget with trial and error. Sure it would have looked exactly like this (not likely). Sure it would have took me 6 months or nights and weekends to achieve this quality ...

When I balanced out everything about the idea of building the cabinet myself with the cost, quality, trail and error, and just the amount if time it would have taken to build my own (which no one ever seems to put a price or value on) against buying one build and assembled ... I am sure damn glad I went with buying one from Paul at VirtuaPin.net because I could not be happier with my purchase and INSTANT satisfaction apposed to months of work it would have taken.

You've heard the expression: "You get what you pay for ...", well this purchase was worth every penny and more!

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(Photos will follow later along with Part II)

Edited by HiRez00, 10 June 2018 - 02:51 PM.

[Brer Frog]

Were any instructions or suggestions provided on how to mount the monitors and/or other components?

[HiRez00]

Sort of, by I went my own route with some of it. They were very helpful.

I will be posting pictures and explanations as to why I did what I did soon.

[HiRez00]

PART II: MONITOR MOUNTS

 

So, I wanted to make a monitor mounting bracket / hinge so I could lift the playfield monitor and also have the ability to lift it out if I needed to.

 

(The following text and images is also in another thread I started)

 

I sat down and built it for about $50 in wood and parts from Loews / Home Depot in about 4 hours.

 
Attached are photos of the pf hinge monitor bracket I built and CNCd out a "slider plater" that adjusts the monitor back and forth and side to side. The slider plate can be made out of wood, I just so happened to have access to a CNC so I could make it EXACT to fit the VESA mount and also mill the "troughs" the monitor can shift / slide in to get the positioning perfect. The whole monitor support (with the 1/2" pipe) can be lifted out completely if needed by releasing the 2 clasps and hinges on either side. So not only does the monitor tilt up and down, but also can be lifted out very easy.
 
I took photos of every step of making his rig if a tutorial is requested by enough interested parties, but here are the final highlight photos.
 
I'm using a TLC brand 43" 4k TV for the playfield ($279 at Costco) and a BenQ 28" hi-resolution monitor (Amazon $169 on sale) for the backglass. The BenQ fit exactly between the 2 upright struts on the backbox that support the glass. Perfect fit.

 

[HiRez00]

PART III: DOF SYSTEM
 
So, I decided to try installing a DOF system for feedback for flippers, slingshots and bumpers.
 
I ordered 2 of these Sainsmart 8 Relay Boards (recommended) from Amazon to turn on and off the solenoids and other "toys" I will be adding later: https://www.amazon.c...duct/B0093Y89DE
 
I also ordered 12 of the recommended solenoids here: https://www.ebay.com...ZP/172933710813
 
The solenoids arrive in about 1 week, which was amazing considering they were coming form China.
 
Because I own a small CNC machine, I was able to mill out mounting brackets out of 1/4" ABS plastic. This is a HARD plastic and unlike "wood" it doesn't absorb the sound or vibration when the solenoids activate for the action of DOF. All vibration, click and thump of the solenoids is transfer directly to the cabinet and you "feel" everything.
 


 
The holes and indents for the 1/2 metal brackets are exact and the solenoid distance from the bracket is adjustable up to 1/4 of an inch back and forth to get the correct stroke distance.
 
Interesting enough, the metal brackets that the solenoid 'thumps' against come in various materials: Zinc, Stainless Steel, Brass, and Galvanized. All make very unique and different sounds when struck because each metal has a different consistency and softness vs. hardness.
 
When I got everything installed in my cab, I was not happy with the 'metal thunk' sound they all made. It sounded artificial and unrealistic to a real pinball machine.
 
CHEAP AND EASY FIX:
 

 
I found these very thin Velcro pads at Lowes / Home Depot. There are 2 types of pads included, the "felt" part and the "loops" part (the 2 different materials that make Velcro.
 
I simply attached a "felt" pad to the metal brackets of the flipper solenoids and the "loops" pads to the metal brackets of everything else and I got COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SOUNDS for each grouping of solenoids.
 
Originally (yesterday) I hated the sound the solenoids made. Now that I have added these pads, they sound JUST LIKE a real pinball machine, and the fix was $4.
 
Even my wife (who was skeptical about this whole thing) gave the cabinet a shot with the DOF system all working and even she thought it was pretty cool how it simulated a real pinball.
 
Hope this info is helpful to you!

Edited by HiRez00, 14 June 2018 - 03:47 AM.

[Nemo]

Very very nice Sir ! Had to look twice......did i see a deer ?? 

[HiRez00]

Very very nice Sir ! Had to look twice......did i see a deer ?? 

 

 

You are correct sir. There is a deer in one of the photos. It isn't real, nor is it taxidermy. A few years ago my wife and I went to a Hollywood prop warehouse house that was closing and they were liquidating everything ... I vaguely remember they even had a couple of old EM pinballs. Anyway, they had a bunch of fake animals and props left over from the movie "I Am Legend" (Will Smith movie) from a few years back. From what I was told, this was an artificial deer made from 100% synthetic materials that was used to be scanned into the computer for the sequence in the movie that there is a herd of deer running through the streets.

 

My wife fell in love with it and we managed to score it for I think $80 ... so it has been standing in our living room for 8-10 years now. At Christmas she puts a Santa hat on it. For Halloween, she puts a fake skeleton on it's back like its being ridden.

 

That is usually the first thing that catches people's eyes when they walk into my house for the first time ... "Why do you have a deer in your living room?"

[SlyceOLyfe]

Way helpful post, really great info. You've made ordering a nice custom table into a checklist.    I was wondering about the TCL screen, it looks like you didn't remove the case in the pic's. Have you noticed or have concerns about warping of the display over time given the weight from the "bottom" (right side) of the case? Do you think removing the case would make the main display too small? Also it seems you didn't purchase the audio amplifier with the speaker package from virtuapin, was there a better solution for you? Thanks again for the help.

[HiRez00]

@SlyceOLyfe,

 

I didn't remove the casing because it has the same boarder all the way around the screen so it actually works as a nice bezel for the screen with only 1/4" gap on either side. As far as any concern of warping. The top section (right side) of the screen weighs practically nothing. All the main weight of the TV is centered around the MESA mount which has full support. I guess a couple of blocks or a strip of wood could be added in the cabinet against the sidewall that could support the edges of the screen if it was to become and issue later.

 

I didn't order the amp with the rest of the components because I already had one of the exact same amps they sell. I bought it for another project several months prior that I didn't end up using it, so I used the little amp with subwoofer support for this project instead, The subwoofer make a HUGE difference in the sound.

Edited by HiRez00, 13 July 2018 - 02:01 PM.