99 replies to this topic

[sc204]

We have had pinball machines for the last 20 years and added 2 for a total of 4 last year.  Actually 5 but we gave our EM game back to my brother as it was actually his 40 years ago.  We have room for one more (make that permission for one more) and last year we decided that a Virtual pin would make sense for the final spot.  Intentions were to build it last winter but a full restoration on a Star trek the next generation (Pinside thread Star Trek The Next Generation Full Restoration) and total remodeling of our game room, now game/media room as well as real life responsibilities have postponed the build till now.  I like doing these threads as generally I find that the information you need is out there but not always in one place.  People have different skill sets and there are many ways to do something so the more options the better.  Some of the better threads were done a while ago and better hardware has made some of the information less  relevant.  Generally I have my own way to do things that may be different from others and hopefully another start to finish thread will be useful to someone else.  I will include the issues that I had to research or make decisions about as I hit them.  I started the build about a week ago so hopefully I will make a few posts today bringing it up to date and then it will follow in real time. 

 

I like widebody pinballs, 3 out of our 4 are widebody so it only made sense to make the virtual pin wideody.  I also thought that the 46" playfield was the closest to looking real sized in regards to the playfield length.

 

As far as monitors, we chose the Samsung 46" UN6300  for the playfield and the 32" UN5500 for the backglass.  The Samsung 5500 had the smallest bezel of 32" TVs that I could find.  32" is closest in width to the real backglass. 

As far as the DMD I still haven't chosen      I take care of some of this before putting it together and some as we go

 

Most of the cabinet hardware and some of the electronics were purchased last year.  I have a bunch of Zebs stuff and a Virtua pin plunger.

The computer hardware was just purchased.  I will list that when I get to the install.

 

Pictures of our current pinball lineup and the entertainment side of the room a 75" Samsung TV

Attached Files

•  Group.jpg   147.71KB   30 downloads
•  Ent Center finished.jpg   120.2KB   24 downloads

Edited by sc204, 11 January 2015 - 04:43 PM.

[sc204]

I have a lot of woodworking experience and a good set of tools to make some jobs easier.  We choose maple veneered ply for our cabinet as the inside will likely be clear coated and the tight grain will make priming and painting the rest easier.  I did use some of the online Widebody plans as a start for my cabinet but as I had several versions of the real thing including the STTNG I just restored 15 feet away I took measurements from the real thing and modified as needed.  I wanted this game to match as close as possible to the games already in our collection.  Cutting up the parts can be a PIA especially as some of the cuts are angled, ie: top of cabinet and front of the backbox. 

Many people use straight edges and circular saw.  We are lucky enough to have a track saw which really makes this part easy.  As long as you can properly measure and lay out your parts on the sheet of plywood, cutting them out is pretty quick.  The ply is laid on the floor on top of a sacrificial material (2" Styrofoam insulation) and the non slip track is placed along the line to cut.  The specialized circular saw runs along the track and plunges into the material first.  It also makes very nice 45 degree cuts for the corner miters.  Although pieces like the cabinet sides can also be cut on a table saw using the circular saw or track saw is much easier. 

Before starting to assemble the cabinet I cut a dado along the bottom of the sides front and back for the bottom piece.  I did use the table saw for this although a router and straight edge or edge guide would also work.  I made the lower back part of the cabinet the same height as the top of the rear leg brackets (about 6") and the upper back cross brace to fit just above the Table monitor slot. 

2 more things needed to be done before assembly.  First was the easy part, cutting out for the coin door.  Most if not all coin doors share their top attachment hole with the bolt hole in the center of the lockdown bar receiver, so the position of one is dependent on the other.  Based on my real game examples the front edge of the lockdown bar receiver is installed about 1/16" below the inside top of the front piece of the cabinet.  So that was installed first and then the 1/4" holes were drilled with the center one in the center of the front cabinet piece.  From there you can measure out the rest of the coin door cutout, probably varies a bit dependent on which coin door that you use.  I used a Forstner drill bit to cut the radius into the corners first and then cut the straight portions with my track saw and finished up the corners with a jig saw.

 

The most difficult decision was where to place the slot for the TV.   Lots of opinions on this and other sites.  I sort of went with a consensus and what I thought would look good and placed the top of the slot about 1" down in the front and 4" in the back.  4 1/2" if you add the back top cabinet cross piece.  In hind sight the front could have been a little higher to get the flipper buttons and plunger a little higher.  Not sure I would go as high as 1/4" as has been mentioned but that will have to wait till I am finished to see how the game looks under the glass.  I used a router with a 5/8" bit with a straight edge as a guide.  The cuts were about 3/8" deep and fit the decased Samsung.  (Spell check wants to make that deceased Samsung)

 

First attempts to dry fit the cabinet together.

 

Attached Files

•  Cabinet 1.jpg   104.08KB   25 downloads
•  Cabinet dry fit 2.jpg   71.6KB   18 downloads

Edited by sc204, 11 January 2015 - 05:23 PM.

[sc204]

I missed taking a few pictures during construction but the first of the two images show the relationship of the lockdown bar receiver and coin door frame as well as the rear lower cross piece at the back of the cabinet.  The original Williams cabinets had locking miter joints on all 4 corners.  I choose to use miters on the front corners and a butt joint in the rear as there will be a door back there for access to the computer.  Integrating a miter back there did not make any sense to me.  One additional note is that the top of the front of the cabinet is angled to match the sides of the cabinet.  This was cut on the table saw.  Since locking miters are a lot stronger than a standard miter or butt joint additional triangle bracing will be used.  Biscuits are a good idea but I do not own a hand held biscuit joiner.  The second image shows the back top cross brace.  I made it from the same 3/4" ply with a rabbit around the edge to match the 1/2" height on the original games. 

 

All construction is being done using polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue)

Before adding flipper buttons and the plunger I dry fit the TV to make sure that the hardware would not interfere.  The flipper button assemblies can go right up to the TV slot.  I made a trial plunger holder to see how high it could go without hitting the TV.  The plunger opening was made by drilling 4 holes and cutting out material between them.  The larger center hole is 3/4" and the 3 outside holes are 13/32".  The upper 2 are on the same center line as the larger hole and 1/3/8" apart and the lower is on the same vertical center line of the larger hole 1 1/8" below its center.  The first picture shows my test cutout.

 

The last pictures show the flipper buttons and plunger in place.  I also added a block into the front of the TV slots once I determined how far forward I I wanted the TV to be with the lockdown bar in place.

Attached Files

•  Coin door and receiver.jpg   98.97KB   23 downloads
•  rear top brace.jpg   80.12KB   17 downloads
•  TV test fit 1.jpg   212.74KB   20 downloads
•  Plunger test.jpg   78.95KB   17 downloads
•  TV Test fit 2.jpg   183.79KB   17 downloads
•  Plunger cutout.jpg   76.79KB   13 downloads
•  Flipper button cutout.jpg   72.07KB   18 downloads
•  flipper button and plunger from inside.jpg   77.22KB   19 downloads

Edited by sc204, 11 January 2015 - 06:36 PM.

[sc204]

I really wanted to get the cabinet standing on its own feet so the legs were next.  Drilling the holes into a corner as many have mentioned can be a pain and if I was making several cabinets I would make a jig to slip over the corner and line up the drill bit appropriately.  Another option would be to rout or sand slots in the miters before assembly although this wouldn't help my rear corners which are  butt joints.  My process which worked very well for me was as follows.  First I used an actual cabinet to measure the leg positions.  In the rear the lower bolt center is 2" from the bottom of the cabinet.  The front is 2" higher or 4" from the bottom of the cabinet. 

1) I marked the positions and used my router with the 5/8" bit and cut a flat into the corner at each bolt hole.  I eyeballed the 45 degree angle. 

2) I then drilled the holes with a 3/8" Forstner bit. 

3) Then I positioned the leg bracket on the inside using the leg and bolts to hold it in place.  I did have to adjust 1 set of holes a bit to get them to fit.

4) Leg brackets were fastened in place.

5) Corner triangle braces were cut to fit behind the leg brace and glued in place.

6) Before the glue dried I drilled through the corner braces with the 3/8" Forstner bit from the outside and a smaller bit that fit through the threaded end of the leg bolt plates without hitting the threads from the inside. 

7) the legs were then reattached and tightened in place while the triangle brace glue dried. 

8) after the glue dried the leg and brace were removed and a 25/64" bit run through the hole to open it up a little and make leg installation easier.

9) Reattach leg bolt braces and legs.

 

 

Attached Files

•  Legs 1.jpg   65.58KB   19 downloads
•  legs 2.jpg   60.56KB   14 downloads
•  Legs 3.jpg   50.5KB   15 downloads
•  Legs 4.jpg   70.61KB   14 downloads
•  Legs 5.jpg   73.46KB   17 downloads
•  Legs 6.jpg   77.28KB   21 downloads

[sc204]

If I really knew exactly what I was doing I would have drilled the holes for the cabinet buttons before assembling the cabinet.  That way I could have used the drill press.  Problem was I had no idea how many buttons I needed

Lots of variation there.  I wanted to take a more minimalistic approach but had no idea what the software would need.  Last year when I first loaded Visual Pinball on my computer I tried both Pinball X and Hyperpin as front ends.  I liked Pinball X so I that is what I am going with and have set up.  After playing with key selections in settings I have decided to go with three buttons besides the flippers (no magnasave) and Launch button in addition to the plunger to cover both game types. 

One button is to start the game, the second is a buy in and the last is Exit.  I choose to use the square button as exit as the button portion seems to extend past the black frame a little less than the round ones so less likely to be accidentally pushed and I want to add lettering to make it look like an red and white exit sign.

 

In Pinabll X the flipper buttons will be left and right to scroll through games, the launch or start game button will be the select and once the game is selected and started the start button will be the same as the 1 key to start the game.  I will use the standard Williams coin door switches as they are intended to be used.  Games will probably be set on free play, or possibly I will add a switch to the coin return to add credits.

 

I positioned the 3 left side buttons to keep them away from the corner brace on the left side that I wanted to run from top to bottom.  On the right side I added an additional corner brace relieved for the Launch Ball switch and Plunger.  Initially I was going to add dowels through the corners to reinforce them but I think the corner triangle braces attached with Gorilla glue should be fine.

Attached Files

•  Buttons.jpg   91.78KB   21 downloads
•  Corner brace 1.jpg   65.76KB   17 downloads
•  Corner brace 2.jpg   64.62KB   15 downloads

Edited by sc204, 11 January 2015 - 07:14 PM.

[sc204]

Like one of my favorite ZZ Top songs.  "She's got legs"

Back box is next.

 

 On legs.jpg   170.04KB   23 downloads

[sc204]

The back box was another area where the online plans did not match a real cabinet.  The bottom of the backbox is shown to be the same depth as the flat portion of the back of the cabinet.  On all my games (Williams, Bally and JJP)  it is set back in the front and flush in the rear.  My games measured 6 3/8" at the bottom and 9 7/8" at the top, and the backbox is a 28 5/8" square.  Using the 32" monitor there would be no way to get the back box down to 28 5/8".  Close but not quite.  The TV measures 28 3/8" wide and removing the back does not help on this model.  I decided to get as close as I could on width and ended up at about 29"  In order to do that the sides of the backbox needed to be relieved where the TV would sit. I tried to measure where the translite sat in a regular box and placed the front of the TV at that point.  Not quite sure how I am going to secure the TV in place but any structure will need to be removable so that the TV can come out from the rear.  The front of the top and bottom pieces of the backbox are angled to match the slope of the sides.  I cut those on the table saw.  As I do have a bench mounted biscuit cutter (not too useful on larger pieces) I opted to use biscuits to help secure the 4 sides of the backbox together.  A strap clamp let me dry fit everything and even make sure the TV would fit.  I used 2 of these strap clamps to hold everything while the glue is drying.  $5.99 each at Harbor Freight.

Attached Files

•  Backbox sides 1.jpg   72.55KB   22 downloads
•  backbox sides 2.jpg   78.38KB   14 downloads
•  Backbox biscuits.jpg   58.2KB   17 downloads
•  Backbox dryfit.jpg   107.28KB   16 downloads
•  Backbox with TV rear.jpg   106.7KB   15 downloads
•  Backbox with TV front.jpg   113.01KB   23 downloads

Edited by sc204, 12 January 2015 - 03:25 AM.

[Nemo]

Wait, wait, i have to get a cup for my drool ......   that's one fine game/entertainment room you guys got there 

I've read your restoration thread over at pinside, cool to find you here now with a virtual pin ! 

 

And you're already off to a great start !

[sc204]

At least I know someone was reading it

Edited by sc204, 12 January 2015 - 03:09 PM.

[STAT]

You should use this one 75" for the Playfield !!!

Overall, nice Things ...

Edited by STAT, 12 January 2015 - 03:18 PM.

[zany]

Looks awesome!

[sc204]

You should use this one 75" for the Playfield !!!

Overall, nice Things ...

I guess if I was trying to rebuild Hercules

http://www.raritygui...tari_1979_3.JPG

[STAT]

... ok, so try it as Backbox ;-)

 

This Hercules Machine is amazing !

I wonder, there is no "good" VPT for this, only one with bad Images ...

Edited by STAT, 13 January 2015 - 02:30 PM.

[nebrunner]

Hercules was pretty cool but it wasn't especially fun.

[sc204]

Stopped at Best Buy and found an Insignia 19" TV on the open box table.  $89 seemed like a reasonable price and ended up under $40 after using my rewards certificates.  So now I know what monitor I will use for the DMD.  I decided against a real DMD because I am hoping that someone will make use of the ColorDMD game files and integrate them into Visual pinball.  

 

Today I worked on the Back box TV mounting brackets.  The TV has to be removed from the rear so any mounting system behind the TV has to be removable as well.  I also have limited wood thickness at the sides behind the TV so simple screwed in blocks could not be used.  I ended up going with 2 vertical members that mount to the back of the TV with spacers between them  and the TV.   Both the top and bottom of these vertical members will slide into notched brackets glued to the top and bottom of the back box.  The bottom ends of the vertical supports will be held in place by tension and the top portion held in by another removable piece of wood which will lock them into the notches cut into the top bracket.  I am just waiting for the glue to dry on the lower bracket to complete it.  

 

 TV mounting 1.jpg   114.46KB   23 downloads

 

 TV mounting bottom bracket.jpg   144.79KB   19 downloads

I also played with fitting the Insignia 19" set below the 32" backgkass monitor.  It will fit tight up against the speaker panel in front which is  currently a solid piece of MDF and extends into the lower cabinet by about 3/4"  I opened an area on the back rear of the cabinet for TV and wires etc.  I believe that I should be able to fold the head up and down without removing the DMD monitor.

 

 speaker panel 1.jpg   122.77KB   17 downloads

 

 DMD monitor cut out.jpg   63.81KB   19 downloads

 

 both monitors front.jpg   145.93KB   20 downloads

Rear of the monitors and the cabinet cutout.

 

The speaker panel may be a challenge to cut out.  I will have to decide what i want and if I can do it.  I am thinking I will take a liberty and make the DMD a little larger then life sized. 

Attached Files

•  BBoth monitors rear.jpg   142.73KB   9 downloads
•  Cabinet rear cutout.jpg   94.01KB   14 downloads

Edited by sc204, 14 January 2015 - 12:07 AM.

[sc204]

I was able to finish the bracing for the backglass monitor and DMD monitor.  The brace is now one piece and is removed by removing the upper locking block (3 screws), the 4 bolts to the 32" monitor and the 4 screws to the 19" monitor.  The bolts to the back of the 32" monitor are probably superfluous as it is held in at the front by the recess cut into the side panels of the back box and pushed forward by the brace.  The DMD monitor does have some play so the 4 screws into the mounting bracket attachment points do the job.

 

The game now almost looks like a pinball machine

 

I still have the rear doors for the cabinet and backbox to make as well as the molding above the backglass monitor and then the speaker panel.  I will probably need to make some jigs for the router to cut it out as I would like.

 

 

 

Not sure why the system has such a size limit on images but then adds the next post into the one before?

 

Had to add another post for the final image.

Attached Files

•  TV mounting 3.jpg   146.81KB   15 downloads
•  TV mounting 4.jpg   133.24KB   12 downloads
•  TV mounting 5.jpg   114.54KB   11 downloads
•  3 monitors running.jpg   217.81KB   18 downloads

Edited by sc204, 14 January 2015 - 06:03 PM.

[Turn2]

Oh yea, I've been reading too, It looks really good. I have a feeling I'm gonna be jealous

[sc204]

Worked out some bugs I was having with the software.  I was having an issue with the DMD display always showing up on the backglass monitor.  I could reposition it but it would not save the new position.  tried changing the script and the specific position in the registry.  Something was still overriding.  Didn't matter if I was running straight visual pinball or PinballX.

After going through everything I wonder if  the position was reading off the default setting for some reason.  I didn't play with that but fixed it all using SetDMD from Pinballbulbs.com.  It sets all of the Roms but for me right now it did the trick.  Also set the Windows Background to Black so the DMD stands out better. 

Still having an issue with the DMD videos that play during game selection in Pinball X.  Some of them take a long time to load. 

[BzZziLLa]

I have been toying around with DMD solutions for my cab as well. The DMD for PinballX is alright. However, if you plan to run any future pinball tables, you should probably consider FutureDMD.

[gigalula]

Nice job so far .... Keep going