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any ideas for kickback when flippers are pressed
Started By
1up
, Mar 23 2009 11:29 AM
25 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 March 2009 - 11:29 AM
i recently played a ultrapin cabinet and really enjoyed the kickback when pressing the flipper buttons (just made the experience more realistic), apparently they just have a normal pinball solonoid which is activated every time the flipper button is pressed.
so what i would like to do when i build my cabinet is add some sort of kickback when the flipper buttons are pressed (just like the real thing), but not sure what to use or even where to start with this idea.
so if anyone has their thinking cap on and have any ideas on how or even if its possible to be implement this into a homemade VP cabinet, that would be great.
thanks in advance!
so what i would like to do when i build my cabinet is add some sort of kickback when the flipper buttons are pressed (just like the real thing), but not sure what to use or even where to start with this idea.
so if anyone has their thinking cap on and have any ideas on how or even if its possible to be implement this into a homemade VP cabinet, that would be great.
thanks in advance!
#2
Posted 23 March 2009 - 12:23 PM
You can buy solonoids from here http://www.jaycar.co...mp;form=KEYWORD
Let me know if and when you buy them and I will tell you how to wire them.
You will need a 12Volt power supply for them, as well as two double pole relays
Let me know if and when you buy them and I will tell you how to wire them.
You will need a 12Volt power supply for them, as well as two double pole relays
Edited by WWWW, 23 March 2009 - 12:25 PM.
#3
Posted 24 March 2009 - 02:18 AM
QUOTE (WWWW @ Mar 23 2009, 01:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You can buy solonoids from here http://www.jaycar.co...mp;form=KEYWORD
Let me know if and when you buy them and I will tell you how to wire them.
You will need a 12Volt power supply for them, as well as two double pole relays
Let me know if and when you buy them and I will tell you how to wire them.
You will need a 12Volt power supply for them, as well as two double pole relays
thanks for the idea. there's a jaycar only 10min away from me but i didn't know they sold these. i gave them a call and they had most of what you mentioned.
they only had 1 x ULTRA MINIATURE 12V SOLENOID, but they had a few in stock of the next size up (MINIATURE 12V SOLENOID). do you think they would be ok.
with the solenoids, would the (ultra miniature 12v soleniod) give a similar feedback to a normal pinball? i noticed that the next 2 sizes up, minature and standard go up in strength a fair bit. would they be a bit too strong?
they had a few different 12v power supplys in stock that the guy said would be suitable and they had double pole double throw relays (is that the same?)
thanks for any info you can give!
#4
Posted 24 March 2009 - 03:54 AM
I only suggested the mini ones because they were cheapest. The bigger ones would give more cabinet kick.
Yes double throw, double pole relays are fine. The main thing to remember is to keep the solinoid circuit seperate from the keyboard/ Ipac circuit.
I have attached a diagram of how to wire them. I am not sure of the monting of your solinoids, if it can be screwed you might have to glue them to the cabinet.
The reson I suggest solid state relays is that they have very low activation timing. A coil type relay may introduce a small delay between when the button is pushed and the flipper is activated. (Maybe 1 micro second, I'm not sure)
Different relays have different pin layouts. It is your responsibility to test or establish where the appropiate pins are. If in doubt you could post a picture of them and I could tell you what is what.
While I am confident of my advice, I cannot be confident of what you do. For this reason I suggest you have another person oversee what you do. It is totally your responsibility and risk. I know you understand what I am saying.
Regards Benny
Yes double throw, double pole relays are fine. The main thing to remember is to keep the solinoid circuit seperate from the keyboard/ Ipac circuit.
I have attached a diagram of how to wire them. I am not sure of the monting of your solinoids, if it can be screwed you might have to glue them to the cabinet.
The reson I suggest solid state relays is that they have very low activation timing. A coil type relay may introduce a small delay between when the button is pushed and the flipper is activated. (Maybe 1 micro second, I'm not sure)
Different relays have different pin layouts. It is your responsibility to test or establish where the appropiate pins are. If in doubt you could post a picture of them and I could tell you what is what.
While I am confident of my advice, I cannot be confident of what you do. For this reason I suggest you have another person oversee what you do. It is totally your responsibility and risk. I know you understand what I am saying.
Regards Benny
Attached Files
Edited by WWWW, 24 March 2009 - 05:51 AM.
#9
Posted 25 March 2009 - 06:49 PM
If you're taking that route, how about a knocker, too?
Again the UltraPin does that and you can download a .pdf manual for wring etc at UltraPin manual.
PK
Again the UltraPin does that and you can download a .pdf manual for wring etc at UltraPin manual.
PK
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Attack From Mars, Batman, Cirqus Voltaire (Fuseball), Corvette, Cue Ball Wizard, NBA Fastbreak, No Fear (Germax), Judge Dredd (aurian), JunkYard, Indiana Jones (Redux), Medieval Madness (macho), SafeCracker, Star Trek: The Next Generation (Destruk), Tales of the Arabian Nights (At Night), The Shadow, The Sopranos, The Simpsons Pinball Party, The Who's Tommy, Theatre of Magic (At Night).
#10
Posted 25 March 2009 - 09:59 PM
QUOTE (Pinball Ken @ Mar 26 2009, 05:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If you're taking that route, how about a knocker, too?
Again the UltraPin does that and you can download a .pdf manual for wring etc at UltraPin manual.
PK
Again the UltraPin does that and you can download a .pdf manual for wring etc at UltraPin manual.
PK
I went to the site, but cannot see the diag. Can you please post a link direct to it?
Regards Benny
#11
Posted 25 March 2009 - 10:14 PM
Here you go Benny,
I think what your looking for is found here http://service.globa...om/ultrapin.asp
el_timbo86
I think what your looking for is found here http://service.globa...om/ultrapin.asp
el_timbo86
#12
Posted 26 March 2009 - 05:13 AM
Thanks for the link.
The PDF is http://service.globa..._Manual-web.pdf Page 45
The only problem with wiring the knocker is you need the uShock I/O PCB to wire it into.
It appears that the board is connected via USB. This means it would be hard to get the actual knocker signal. If however the signal came via the serial port, it would be much easier to wire a home made knocker.
So for use plebs who dont have one, its not easily done.
I wonder if they sell the actually boards individually and for how much?
The PDF is http://service.globa..._Manual-web.pdf Page 45
The only problem with wiring the knocker is you need the uShock I/O PCB to wire it into.
It appears that the board is connected via USB. This means it would be hard to get the actual knocker signal. If however the signal came via the serial port, it would be much easier to wire a home made knocker.
So for use plebs who dont have one, its not easily done.
I wonder if they sell the actually boards individually and for how much?
Edited by WWWW, 26 March 2009 - 05:14 AM.
#13
Posted 26 March 2009 - 05:53 AM
er...most new computer motherboards don't have legacy ports like serial, parallel, and soon the PS/2 ports of old will be gone too. Guess most wiring will need to be custom in any timeframe for this. The uShock boards are sold separately - not sure if they have extras left to sell though, and $250 was a high price IMO for such a device.
Build a fire, vipers love the heat.
#14
Posted 31 March 2009 - 07:15 AM
QUOTE (1up @ Mar 25 2009, 11:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
el_timbo,
i've got a few busy days at work so wont get a chance to try this till at least the weekend, but when i do i'll try and take pics and a bit of a write up of how it went.
i've got a few busy days at work so wont get a chance to try this till at least the weekend, but when i do i'll try and take pics and a bit of a write up of how it went.
I'm keen to know how it all went?
#15
Posted 31 March 2009 - 08:05 AM
QUOTE (WWW @ Mar 31 2009, 08:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm keen to know how it all went?
actually havn't got a chance to do it yet, when i did get some spare time i was fiddling around with tables, pulling them apart and putting them together to try and see how VP tables work. but will give it a go this week and will let you know how it went.
#16
Posted 06 June 2009 - 02:10 AM
I actually tested this all out a while ago but never got around to posting the results, but just in case anyone was interested in the outcome of my testing of the flipper feedback, here is what happened.
i bought all my parts from jaycars,
1 x 12v 5A power supply
2 x 12v 5A doulble throw double pole relays
2 x standard 12v solonoids http://www.jaycar.co...mp;form=KEYWORD
i wired everything up and got it all working, but just wasn't happy with the results, i guess the solonoids are no where near powereful enough for what i wanted but whenever the button was pressed the solonoid was more of a soft tap rather than a loud bang and i could hardly feel any vibration/feedback with it right in front of me let alone if it was installed inside a cabinet.
i had everything connected as described in the diagram (minus the connection the the ipac/keyboard) and even used a multimeter to check the power that was going to the solonoid whenever the button was pressed and all seemed fine.
i guess i would have to go a real pinball solonoid if i wanted to go that route, but i'll give that a miss. this test was worth a try but just wasn't satisfacory for what i was after, but thanks to everyone for their help.
i bought all my parts from jaycars,
1 x 12v 5A power supply
2 x 12v 5A doulble throw double pole relays
2 x standard 12v solonoids http://www.jaycar.co...mp;form=KEYWORD
i wired everything up and got it all working, but just wasn't happy with the results, i guess the solonoids are no where near powereful enough for what i wanted but whenever the button was pressed the solonoid was more of a soft tap rather than a loud bang and i could hardly feel any vibration/feedback with it right in front of me let alone if it was installed inside a cabinet.
i had everything connected as described in the diagram (minus the connection the the ipac/keyboard) and even used a multimeter to check the power that was going to the solonoid whenever the button was pressed and all seemed fine.
i guess i would have to go a real pinball solonoid if i wanted to go that route, but i'll give that a miss. this test was worth a try but just wasn't satisfacory for what i was after, but thanks to everyone for their help.
#17
Posted 06 June 2009 - 03:58 AM
Thanks for posting the results 1up.
I see that the soliniods have a 2kg pulling force ( that sounds like quite a lot.)
I was wondering if the plunger actually hit a bit on angle iron bolted in front of it would make a difference. I have a feeling it would.
Have you removed them from your cab yet?
I see that the soliniods have a 2kg pulling force ( that sounds like quite a lot.)
I was wondering if the plunger actually hit a bit on angle iron bolted in front of it would make a difference. I have a feeling it would.
Have you removed them from your cab yet?
#18
Posted 11 June 2009 - 01:47 PM
QUOTE (WWW @ Jun 6 2009, 03:58 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for posting the results 1up.
I see that the soliniods have a 2kg pulling force ( that sounds like quite a lot.)
I was wondering if the plunger actually hit a bit on angle iron bolted in front of it would make a difference. I have a feeling it would.
Have you removed them from your cab yet?
I see that the soliniods have a 2kg pulling force ( that sounds like quite a lot.)
I was wondering if the plunger actually hit a bit on angle iron bolted in front of it would make a difference. I have a feeling it would.
Have you removed them from your cab yet?
that was their lagest size and i though also that they would do the trick, but just didnt have enough force to make any difference.
i was only testing these out on a table (cabinet not built yet, but shortly) and had them at all different angles just to see
if it made any difference, but it didn't.
#19
Posted 12 June 2009 - 06:12 AM
QUOTE (1up @ Jun 11 2009, 11:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (WWW @ Jun 6 2009, 03:58 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for posting the results 1up.
I see that the soliniods have a 2kg pulling force ( that sounds like quite a lot.)
I was wondering if the plunger actually hit a bit on angle iron bolted in front of it would make a difference. I have a feeling it would.
Have you removed them from your cab yet?
I see that the soliniods have a 2kg pulling force ( that sounds like quite a lot.)
I was wondering if the plunger actually hit a bit on angle iron bolted in front of it would make a difference. I have a feeling it would.
Have you removed them from your cab yet?
that was their lagest size and i though also that they would do the trick, but just didnt have enough force to make any difference.
i was only testing these out on a table (cabinet not built yet, but shortly) and had them at all different angles just to see
if it made any difference, but it didn't.
were they actually screwed to the table though?
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