16 replies to this topic

[007]

Hello

I'm gathering parts for my future building project, and I was wondering if anyone knows how the holes for "real" leaf switch flipper buttons are drilled?
I got buttons and pal nuts from a supplier today, but I can't figure out how they are supposed to be mounted.



Now the palnut's diameter is the same as the buttons diameter where it isn't threaded - the wider part.
Should the hole be drilled in two steps, one wider, then the rest narrower for the nut to actually secure the button??

I hope you can understand what I mean...

I have to confess that I've never seen the insides of a real piball machine, so I'm a little bit confused.

[powerchisper]

Hi 007.

I have experience in drilling button holes.
Anyway , I never drilled to fit those buttons , I use Industrias Lorenzo ( factory from which Happ controls come from )
An they need a 29mm diameterdrilling bit.

In this case , I think you are right.You'll have to drill the smaller diameter first , then route with something else to fit the " belly" of those buttons.
If you don't have such big holesaws , you can route the bigger diameter with a Dremel.

Another option is to drill the bigger diamater only , and get a big washer to prevent the nut from going through the hole.
That should be a really big washer , but if you don't have all the tools , that's a sugestion for a "chapuza" ( my translator says "fudge" for this word )

Hope it helps.

[007]

Gracias Señor

[powerchisper]

You're welcome !!

By the way...what's the difference between a nut and a pal nut ??

I thought pal was like your fellas , friends or something.

[007]

I think "Palnuts" is a brand originally
I think it is a nut like the one in the picture above; like a thin plate. It's supposed to flex a bit for tension, thus "locking" the nut in place.

At least that's what I've heard.

[Itchigo]

I used those same buttons for my cab without the palnuts (didn't know they were called that) mainly because no one had them by me and used regular big nuts. I worked by sight but drilled a big hole on the outside (top side) half way through and a smaller hole for the threads all the way through.
I forgot, I did this with a 3/4 inch thick surface.

Edited by Itchigo, 11 November 2010 - 01:37 AM.

[007]

Thanks
Yes, I think that's the way I'll do it. It sounds easier.
Maybe I'll drill a small guide hole all the way through first, though.

[GSGregg]

..... the palnut's diameter is the same as the buttons diameter where it isn't threaded - the wider part.

Do you mean that the pal nut threads on to the shoulder (cutting a thread as it goes on), or slips on.....if either is the case, the nut is way too large. It should thread onto the threaded part of the button. If you are using the type of switch/button holder shown in this Wikipedia article;
http://wiki.arcadeco...iki/Pushbuttons
then the nut will bear against the switch holder, and no other washer,etc., will be needed.

As far as drilling the hole/s, you will get cleaner holes with either an auger or a spade bit than with a conventional drill bit. To keep the two diameters concentric, I would start with the larger (1-1/8", according to the article) and drill just deep enough to admit the shoulder of the button; then center the pilot of the smaller bit (5/8"? Can't really tell from the pic) in the pilot hole begun by the large bit and drill through. If you want to prevent splintering of the inside surface when the bit breaks through, clamp a scrap of wood to the inside surface (use two clamps to straddle the hole) and use other scraps on the outside if you're concerned about marring the surface.

I think "Palnuts" is a brand originally
I think it is a nut like the one in the picture above; like a thin plate. It's supposed to flex a bit for tension, thus "locking" the nut in place.

Correct. The stamped nut 'pals', or accompanies, a solid nut that can't be tightened to substantial clamping force without damaging or flat-out crushing the material involved. As the palnut spirals onto the thread body and contacts the main nut (or in this case, the button holder), the six 'teeth' of its thread deflect down and in until their diameter is reduced, creating a 'bite' into the thread body that resists loosening even though the applied torque is minimal.

I have experience in drilling button holes.
Anyway , I never drilled to fit those buttons , I use Industrias Lorenzo ( factory from which Happ controls come from )
And they need a 29mm diameter drilling bit.

29mm (1.14173") seemed like a very odd size to me, til I remembered your Spanish flag. Even though the USA converted (sold out) to the metric system years ago, you'd be surprised to find how limited the consumer-level selection of not-so-common metric stuff actually is. I looked in a 4500-page Industrial Supply catalog for a 29mm bit; nothing over 20mm that any normal person could afford. East of the Atlantic, though, maybe augers and spade bits (however they're named) are manufactured metric. 1-1/8" (1.125") is only about .4mm smaller than 29mm, so the fit should be okay either way.

[007]

Thanks for the info GSGregg!

I should have been clearer: The nut's outer "diameter" edge to edge is the same as the "belly" of the button. The nuts fit the threaded part of the button (screws on).
The problem was that with a hole as wide as the "belly" the nut will go right through the hole.

Edit: I didn't know about the switch holders. Thanks for that info. I'll have to call the supplier again.

Edited by 7, 11 November 2010 - 01:06 PM.

[GSGregg]

Yeah, 007; nomenclature is a wonderful thing, ain't it. The referenced diameter of a nut or bolt/screw is the thickness of the bolt's thread body, while the distance across the span of the nut is the wrench, or hex, size. The size of the drillbit, rod or dowel that will go through, say, a 5/8" nut, is smaller than 5/8" (the nominal diameter) by an amount equal to twice the depth of the thread. I could go on for daze.....

I perhaps should have asked what material you are drilling, and how thick; I assumed wood, plywood or particle board.....any 'expertise' I possess is automotive rather than carpentry-related, so I just mentioned some of the basics. Let me know if it's as easy as I tried to make it sound.

GSG

[007]

That would be plywood. It's a project which haven't yet started, I've only just begun collecting parts.
I think I understand about diameters and wrench now, enough to drill a few holes anyway

[GSGregg]

All....righty, then! Have fun and good luck.

[powerchisper]

Yes !!

Spade bit is the ideal , in this case it is better to drill the bigger diamater first , as Gregg said.
It will make a cleaner hole , with no burned exit ( as happens with cheap hole saws ).It will also leave the center marked for the small drill.


29 mm is a weird size even in Europe.I think it's converted from an inch size ( 1-1/8 = 28,575mm ).

Its the normal size for American / European arcade buttons ( le'ts not talk abou japanese sizes )

[zebulon]

Yes !!

Spade bit is the ideal , in this case it is better to drill the bigger diamater first , as Gregg said.
It will make a cleaner hole , with no burned exit ( as happens with cheap hole saws ).It will also leave the center marked for the small drill.


29 mm is a weird size even in Europe.I think it's converted from an inch size ( 1-1/8 = 28,575mm ).

Its the normal size for American / European arcade buttons ( le'ts not talk abou japanese sizes )

Probably a little late for this but rather than a spade bit you could use a Forstner bit. It cuts a clean, flat bottom hole and has a pilot point to get you started. Drill the larger hole first (only deep enough for the recess) and then switch to the smaller bit and bore the rest of the way through.

[007]

Not too late, I'm a slowpoke myself
Thanks for the tip!

[Andurian]

I know it's an ancient thread, but...

What is the diameter of the smaller portion of the buttons?

Edited by Andurian, 04 April 2014 - 10:26 PM.

[Noah Fentz]

3/8"