5 replies to this topic

[Tesla]

I was in Pinscape Setup, and I noticed that it said:

 

Current Firmware: 2021-12-22-2148

Newer firmware version available: 2024-10-05-2011

It does however say my Config-Tool software is already up-to-date (so, I got that going for me) <smile>

 

This is an older KL25z, and Mini-USB ports.

- I bought it from Amazon back in 2023. It has “2018 NXP B.V.” written on it

- It has a working accelerometer (that I use for VPX nudging)

- I soldered-in the Headers a while back (used for Buttons and a DOF device)

 

Should I risk doing it? Do I even need to? 

 

Is my situation like having an old computer motherboard that you only risk a firmware-flash if something is not working properly?

Or, is it more like a router or micro-controller in a newer computerized device … where you are going to need to get the Firmware-Updates on there eventually (in progressive-order and to reach the final working/stable-ones) … so you might as well do it now?

 

I really don’t want to mess it up (or brick it) as it seems to be working fine now, so I thought it better to ask first.

What say yall?

 

[mjr]

It's pretty safe to update a KL25Z, because the firmware install is handled by a separate CPU dedicated to just the firmware installs.  So even if you install new firmware that's totally broken, it won't affect the updater CPU in any way, so you can just go back to the previous firmware.  Just be sure you have a copy of the .bin file corresponding to your current version - my site has an archive of all of the old releases, so you can find it by date there.

 

http://mjrnet.org/pi.../swversions.php

 

I usually recommend keeping up to date due to the ease of rolling back to an earlier version if something breaks.  But if everything's working for your current setup, there's also something to be said for just leaving well enough alone.  There's a summary of changes in each version in the archive list linked above, so you can look there to see if there are any new features or fixes that would be of interest to you.

And no, there's no need to keep up to date like with a Windows system or the like.  Each version is totally standalone, so you can switch from any version to any other version in any order.  Switching versions doesn't do anything irreversible to your system, since each version is a complete install that replaces the previous one.  It's not like Windows where there are millions (or so it seems) of interacting components that all get updated separately - it's just one big firmware monolith that gets installed each time.

[Tesla]

Wow, glad I asked as you led me to the page with the answer to my question already written-out. Having the old ones archived there (along with the matching Release-Notes for each) is also potentially helpful (not that you want to find yourself in that hole actually needing them). 

 

> It's pretty safe to update a KL25Z, because the firmware install is handled by a separate CPU dedicated to just the firmware installs. 

 

Interesting. So, you can always just Boot-Load it back to whatever stable version, or if the firmware-flash just goes sideways ... nice.

 

> Each version is totally standalone, so you can switch from any version to any other version in any order. 

 

Cool. AFAIK, like the full-BIOS for a (Windows) computer motherboard (although not all have a BIOS-Recovery mode and/or allow back-flashing).

 

Thanks for the post. With all those protections, I'll think I'll give it a try.

That way, my KL25z will be running on the "current" firmware-code again (and I won't fall too-far behind).

Edited by Tesla, 16 October 2025 - 09:48 PM.

[Tesla]

The latest firmware installed fine, and it seems to still be working properly.

 

Thanks.

[Tesla]

I meant to also report ...

 

I used the Pinscape program's automation.

I flashed it with the firmware-file it downloaded for me (which was also the correct one).

I just have the one USB-cable, so I did the "cable swap" procedure to flash-it (I haven't done that since I initially installed it years-ago).

It retained all my settings (without any special intervention on my part).

 

The is on a (Pegatron made) motherboard in my Dell/Alienware Aurora-R6. It still has a few USB-2.0 ports, so I use one of those for its Mini-USB cable. Running Windows-11 Pro 64-bit.

 

EDIT: Seems like maybe my nudging force is decreased a bit (but it also might just be my imagination). We know that the only accelerometer-calibration required is that it must be none (no Windows calibration). For now, I just increased the two-numbers in VPX Prefs a bit ... I'm up to 195 now and I'll give that a try.

 

We noticed that if set too high, (while cool) you can potentially nudge either yours or other players locked-balls out of holding and that tends to derail the game in progress.

Edited by Tesla, 17 October 2025 - 06:05 PM.

[Tesla]

Yeah, X&Y-Gain at 195% seems about right for my cabinet. What are yall using?

 

I wonder if mine is a little high just because:

a. I'm fascinated by the real-time nudging in VPX (and try to use it whenever I get an appropriate opportunity) 

b. That's the way I play on real-machines in the arcades.

c. My KL25z is mounted inside a protective-box on stand-offs, and that box is (heavy duty rigid) "Command-Stripped" to the inside of the cabinet (but there is also a screw though the middle of the plastic box's bottom ... holding it all down tight to the cabinet's floor).

Edited by Tesla, 25 October 2025 - 03:53 AM.