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My first build (untitled for now)


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#1 connorsdad

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 12:25 PM

My shopping list is nearly complete so time to start my build thread :)

Components:

Screens.
AOC i2769Vm (Backglass)
http://www.currys.co...707491-pdt.html (Currys)

LG 39LN5400 (Playfield tv) http://pages.ebay.co...5658564&alt=web (Ebay)

DMD LED Screen http://pages.ebay.co...1937835&alt=web (Ebay)

DMD Controller http://pages.ebay.co...7293829&alt=web (Ebay)

PC.
Samsung 250gb SSD http://www.overclock...rodid=HD-168-SA
(Overclockers)

Corsair 600W PSU http://www.overclock...d=701&catid=123
(Overclockers)

Gigabyte Z97P-D3 Intel Z97 http://www.overclock...pid=701&catid=5
(Overclockers)

Intel Core i7-4770K 3.50Ghz (Haswell) http://www.overclock...rodid=CP-471-IN
(Overclockers)

Corsair 8GB DDR3 http://www.overclock...pid=701&catid=8
(Overclockers)

EVO labs 550W PSU (Spare) for the toys

Nvidia GTX 650 (Spare) Backglass & DMD

Nvidia GTX 560 (Spare) Playfield

Feedback.
Shaker/gear motor http://www.zebsboard...-combo-6-detail (Zeb)

RGB Light bar http://www.zebsboard...htbar-20-detail (Zeb)

Strobe light panels http://pages.ebay.co...9028009&alt=web (Ebay)

Under cab lighting http://pages.ebay.co...0796078&alt=web (Ebay)

Rotating beacon http://pages.ebay.co...9919350&alt=web (Ebay)

8 X Contactors http://pages.ebay.co...1943611&alt=web (ebay)

Boards.
LEDwiz http://www.zebsboard...s/ledwiz-detail (Zeb)

Zeb board http://www.zebsboard...tput-kit-detail (Zeb)

Ipac2 http://www.arcadewor...rd-Encoder.html (Arcadeworld)

Cabinet furniture.
Zaccaria Lucky Fruit donor cab http://pages.ebay.co...EBAY-GB&alt=web (Ebay)

Backbox using freezys plans

Black and chrome T-moulding http://www.arcadewor...-T-Molding.html (Arcade world)

4 X Chrome legs http://pages.ebay.co...4166893&alt=web (Pinball heaven Ebay)

Coin mech http://www.arcadewor...-Mechanism.html (Arcade world)

Buttons.
Gold leaf arcade buttons http://www.arcadewor...ade-Button.html (Arcade world)

44mm illuminated arcade button X 4 (Red, Orange, Green and Blue) http://www.arcadewor...ade-Button.html (Arcade world)

Launch ball button http://pages.ebay.co...1992629&alt=web (Ebay)

Cooling.
2 X 120mm Fans http://www.overclock...rodid=FG-026-ZW (Overclockers)

2 X 120mm Fan guards http://www.overclock...rodid=FG-005-GE
(Overclockers)

2 X 200mm Silent blue led fan http://www.overclock...rodid=FG-017-AE
(Overclockers)

2 X 200mm Fan guards black http://www.overclock...rodid=CM-022-OE
(Overclockers)

Miscellaneous.
Plunger sensor http://pages.ebay.co...2853977&alt=web (Ebay)

Power Strip http://www.amazon.co...2&robot_redir=1 (Amazon)

Multi hub http://pages.ebay.co...2967105&alt=web (ebay)

20awg wire in various colours (eBay)

5v Leds X 5 http://www.arcadewor...5-Volt-LED.html (Arcade world)

Sound.
Lepai LP-168HA http://www.amazon.co...#ref=mp_s_a_1_7 (Amazon)

Sony XS-GT1028F 10cm 2-Way Coaxial Speakers http://www.halfords....tegoryId_265869 (Halfords)

Audio switcher box http://pages.ebay.co...6991411&alt=web (ebay)

Subwoofer 300W http://pages.ebay.co...1948793&alt=web (eBay)

Xbox 360 Kinect

Edited by connorsdad, 20 July 2014 - 12:27 PM.

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#2 connorsdad

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 01:44 PM

Progress so far:

I wasnt happy with the original backbox so decided to make my own using Freezys plans.

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My speaker panel created using a router and following this great tut from ericleroi http://www.hyperspin...ll=1#post314443

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Place the backbox on the cab body to make sure I'm happy with the proportions.

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Laminate the backbox door, I precut the pieces of formica which is why it has "door" written on the door :rolleyes:

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Add strips to the speaker panel to hold the DMD screen in place.

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Mount the backglass monitor.

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Paint the speaker panel and add the bezel to the backglass.

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Setting up the software side :)

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A few vids from my testing/setting up phase, both too long :bebored:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSBgFmyG9v8

Edited by connorsdad, 20 July 2014 - 01:54 PM.

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#3 connorsdad

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 02:01 PM


Apart from the DOF configuration the system is 95% finished, 259 tables thanks to having most already setup on my G4D cab :)
Almost have the backbox finished just need to add the T-molding (Black or Chrome :hmmmm: ), speakers, fill any screwholes and add the artwork.

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#4 connorsdad

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 02:27 PM

Test fit of the TV today (Thanks to Striggell for the recommendation), fits great :)

Will add black vinyl to cover the metal trim, may add mirror to the wall sides I'm not sure yet.

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#5 connorsdad

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 02:40 PM

Small update.

Got the amp delivered today, tested it for a little while, it's not bad, certainly suitable for a pincab but wouldn't like to use it for listening to music, then again I did try it without a sub connected. Got the speakers fitted and the backdoor to the backglass cabinet finished.

Posted Image

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#6 connorsdad

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 03:37 PM

Look what came in the post :)

Posted Image

These are a work of art :)

I have a few questions regarding these boards I hope you guys maybe able to answer.

1. Am I right in thinking the ribbon cables connect to the "Low - Input" sockets on both boards?

2. Which board connects to which side of the ledwiz adaptor plate?

3. Am I right in thinking I don't actually wire anything direct to the ledwiz, except for the USB obviously :)

4. I see the connections for light bar leds, strobe, knocker etc, where would I connect my 12v rotating beacon?

5. Is there anyway I can test all my toys without first having to connect up my PC and running vp, maybe a wire that triggers the ledwiz?

6. No need for fuses or resistors, just install the bare wire into the terminal blocks?

7. How/where would I wire a 12v toggle switch to switch on/off the feedback devices (day/night mode) ?

Thanks

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#7 gtxjoe

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 03:50 PM

I can only help on question 5. I don't know if you can test everything without a PC, but there is a simple PC utility to turn on/offthe individual ledwiz ports. Download LEDBlinky and run the simpleledtest.exe

#8 connorsdad

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 04:49 PM

More questions for those of you that have built cabs.
 
I see most builds have the rgb flashers pointing straight at the player, to do this in my cab I would have to reduce the height of the bar itself, not much of a problem but is there any specific reason for doing this?
 
I tried it with the bar at an angle and with it in a flat position, please see the photos below. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?
 
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Also, what gap do you guys have between the edge of your lockdown bar and start of your screen? (Apron)
 
Your answers will help me with the final placement of the screen which I think is probably the most important aspect of the build.
 
Thanks

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#9 mjr

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 05:15 PM

I see most builds have the rgb flashers pointing straight at the player, to do this in my cab I would have to reduce the height of the bar itself, not much of a problem but is there any specific reason for doing this?

 
I tried it with the bar at an angle and with it in a flat position, please see the photos below. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?

 

I have mine situated at an angle similar to your picture (the angled one, not the flat one).  That seems to work great.  I don't think there's any functional need to have it at any particular orientation - certainly there's no need to point them at the player to maximize brightness, since they're extremely bright no matter which way they're pointing, and the domes do a good job of scattering the light in all directions.  Glare from the glass or the monitor *might* be affected by how they're angled, but again, they're so bright that I don't think that makes much difference.  It seems that putting them at the back makes glare irrelevant anyway since your visual attention while playing is mostly focused on the mid to lower playfield.

 

 

Also, what gap do you guys have between the edge of your lockdown bar and start of your screen? (Apron)

 

I use about 4-1/2".  The driving factor in mine is the plunger - it's situated at the same vertical position as the TV, so the front edge of the TV had to be far enough back to clear the plunger.  I was a little concerned in the design phase that this would put the TV a little too far back, but it actually works out really well for most tables.  Most of the full-screen tables cut off some of the apron, so having a physical apron ends up spacing things out just right.  The flippers land right about where they'd be on a real machine.


Edited by mjr, 21 July 2014 - 05:16 PM.


#10 connorsdad

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 06:19 PM

My plunger originally ran in line with the screen too so I swapped the plunger and the launch button around. The only downside is now when pulling the plunger it will not relate to what is happening on screen as it's now lower. Sacrifices have to me made :)

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#11 zany

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 06:25 PM

Your build looks awesome! :D

I plan to have my launchbutton on top of the plunger, even if i think i have room for it the opposite way, else i think the plunger will be in the way of the launchbutton!



#12 Carny_Priest

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 06:44 PM

Your build looks awesome! :D

I plan to have my launchbutton on top of the plunger, even if i think i have room for it the opposite way, else i think the plunger will be in the way of the launchbutton!

 

Yes. That's how my layout is arranged, too.



#13 mjr

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 08:28 PM

Your build looks awesome! :D

I plan to have my launchbutton on top of the plunger, even if i think i have room for it the opposite way, else i think the plunger will be in the way of the launchbutton!

 

Do you mean in the way from the player's perspective?  I don't think you need to worry about that, really - if you use one of the standard big red launch buttons, it's big enough that it's perfectly visible and reachable even with the plunger on top.  The other way around would be perfectly fine functionally, too, of course - I just prefer it aesthetically to have the plunger in the standard position, since I'm trying to replicate the 90s WPC look as closely as possible.  (Granted, it breaks this rule to have both a plunger and launch button in the first place, since a real machine from the era would only have one or the other, but this much seems unavoidable, so it qualifies under the "as closely as possible" hedge. :))


Edited by mjr, 21 July 2014 - 08:31 PM.


#14 zebulon

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 10:03 PM

There's a whole set of installation documents available for download here.... http://www.zebsboard...x.php/documents

 

And a wide variety of wiring examples and diagrams available here....http://www.zebsboard...wiring-diagrams

 

And of course you can contact me directly with anything that isn't covered by the other two sources.....:)


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#15 patrickfx

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 10:26 PM

Oh! With a list of component like that. You make me shy!
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I should play sometimes, not just configure my Pinball !!!

#16 gigalula

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 05:38 AM

Wow your build inspired me to change my DMD thanks  :)

 

Nice work ... Will keep an eye on your progress.



#17 connorsdad

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 06:18 PM

How can I test everything?

I have a contactor wired upto SL, both boards connected to the ledwiz. Tried out "Simple LED test" from ledblinky and nothing happens.

I've found lwsend.exe but can't seem to get anything to work with that either.

I want to make sure I know how things work before I install everything into my cab.

I was hoping it would be possible to just install a piece of software on my laptop, click a button and see my contactor react.

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#18 connorsdad

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 04:31 PM

So I see there's no easy way to test my toys without using dof so I installed vp and dof on my laptop to test my toys, I'm struggling with the dof at the minute.

 

I have used the DOF Config tool to generate a directoutputconfig.ini and a table config which I changed to tablename.ini (Fire! table btw), I placed a copy of these into my tables folder and a copy of them into .DirectOutput/config folder, yet when I run vp, dof cannot find the configs.

 

https://www.dropbox....25 17.22.09.png

 

What am I doing wrong ?


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#19 gtxjoe

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 05:17 PM

SimpleLEDTest.exe can be used, something is wrong with you overall setup.

 

Basic test to make sure LEDwiz and SimpleLEDTest.exe is working.

1) Connect 12V power supply to LEDwiz Bank Voltage Select 1-8

2) Connect Ground wire to Ledwiz GND port

3) Run SimpleLEDtest.exe and turn on Port 1.  

4) Using multimeter, you will see 12 V between LEDwiz Pin 1 and LEDwiz Bank Voltage Select 1-8 pin

5) In SimpleLEDtest.exe, turn off port 1, voltage will drop to 0

 

Next step test a 12v illuminated arcade button.

6) Attach 12v to one side of button lamp and attach other side of button lamp to LEDwiz Pin 1

7) In SimpleLEDtest.exe, turn port 1 on and off, you will see arcade button light turn on and off

 

Once you have LEDwiz and SimpleLEDtest working then move on to you complete setup and use SimpleLEDtest to troubleshoot



#20 arngrim

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 05:57 PM

don't change the name of the ini files