48 replies to this topic

[deadmanworking]

You're right that a visual feedback or toggle switch would be much welcome from a usability standpoint. What I did is add a .bat file that triggers when night mode button is pressed that sets my Equalizer APO to attenuate all bass channels by a few dB and throws a popup "NIGHT MODE ON". Handy

[Tesla]

Good idea.

 

So, for that 1K-Ohm Resistor on the KL25z's control line, I went to the shed and dug-out my old resistor assortment from the 80's. It looked fine (and read fine on DMM) so in a pinch I used it. And they told me to save the card, so I did <smile>

 

Archer (Radio Shack) Resistor Assortment Card

 

But now we have this nice App I just downloaded.

 

I'll be ready next time ... I bought this assortment (looks like a fairly legit Chinese company that actually knows electronic parts), and to round-out my "electronics hobby kit assortment", also this assortment of ceramic caps (and I get the same impression from them). 

Edited by Tesla, 25 October 2025 - 04:25 AM.

[Tesla]

You're right that a visual feedback or toggle switch would be much welcome from a usability standpoint. What I did is add a .bat file that triggers when night mode button is pressed that sets my Equalizer APO to attenuate all bass channels by a few dB and throws a popup "NIGHT MODE ON". Handy

 

My coin-door in ALP is decorative and does not open. Also, I'm not big on having core-function external switches near front of cabinet that someone might touch or mess with.

 

I finally got my BackBox cover vented, so it's back on (and so BackBox is again closed-up). However, the back lower-cabinet cover ... I still leave it off for some passive ventilation. I think I will create a small control-panel and mount it just inside this opening. I'll just install this Night-Mode switch for now, but there will be room on it to add others later as the need arises. 

 

I had some old (like 30 years) switches, but they look tarnished and old (sheds are actually a poor environment, with the excessive heat and humidity). Instead, I ordered this nice assortment. Somehow, they are still inexpensive ... 20-Switches Assortment .

Edited by Tesla, 04 November 2025 - 03:08 AM.

[Tesla]

I added a Switch-Panel and the Night-Mode toggle-switch.

 

https://www.vpforums...=52387&p=549217

Edited by Tesla, 04 November 2025 - 05:44 AM.

[Tesla]

No Booster, Just a separate 12v PSU for some 12v Toys.
This solenoid for knocker, a "car-door-window-motor" for Gear, a Vibration motor (search for Type 775) for Shaker, some Siemens contactors for flipper/bumper/Droptarget
All dof Toys controlled by a "Rigmaster", it's a pinscape compatible kl25z Board.

 

Do you happen to remember how close the hammer is to your wooden surface?

 

Now that I finally put the cover back on my backbox, the sound from my knocker has gotten muffled (even with new 1-inch vent holes in the cover up near it).

 

Here is mine installed in my (generally just MDF) backbox:

https://drive.google...vvTlseyvFP/view

 

For right now, I'm going to try mounting it down in the main cabinet, near the back (as I still keep that cover off for ventilation).

IIRC, I have my hammer at 7mm of 10mm travel. My thinking was that at 75% travel, it should be up to full-speed. Now I'm wondering if just mounting it a bit closer would make it louder?

Edited by Tesla, 19 November 2025 - 08:37 AM.

[mjr]

> Now I'm wondering if just mounting it a bit closer would make it louder?

 

I think it's worth a try.  In the original machines, the ones I've seen are mounted with about a 1" gap, but I doubt that means anything for your setup since you're using a different kind of solenoid.  Other than experimenting with distance, you might try adding a metal strike plate.  The real ones use a small piece of relatively thick sheet metal, probably 18 gauge steel, about 2" x 2", which I think makes it louder than hitting the wood directly.  You mentioned you're using MDF, and I suspect that's even more sound-absorbent than the plywood they use in the originals, so some kind of strike plate might help a lot.  Maybe something like a mending plate or tie plate from Home Depot.

[digitalarts]

Hi Tesla,
I mounted the solenoid 180° flipped. The opposite Hammerside is touching slightly the Wood, in "Zero" condition. When the knocker is triggered, it hammers against the Wood (i placed a little piece of foam between as damper)


https://drive.google...ew?usp=drivesdk

[Tesla]

You mentioned you're using MDF, and I suspect that's even more sound-absorbent than the plywood they use in the originals, 

 

A lot of effort here to make some noise, but if we can't hear it good ... seems like wasted effort.

 

It's like the various speakers for SSF. I've discovered that when using conventional speakers, there needs to be an actual good-sized hole for the sound to escape or you (unfortunately) have to mount the speakers outside the cabinet (hopefully, kinda hidden).

[Tesla]

Well, I can hear it again <smile>

 

I moved the whole wooden knocker-box-assembly down to the lower cabinet, mounted near the back where cover is permanently off for ventilation.

 

Still not sure if mounted closer is better, or if "picking up speed" and hits at 75% travel is louder ... but I moved striker 2mm closer. So, now at 5mm away or 50% of 10mm total-travel.

 

It can't be pointing down to strike toward gravity because the residual voltage makes a lame rattle-noise afterwards. But maybe not completely opposite that like I had it (100% against gravity). I decided to go with @DigitalArts horizontal mounting. Works fine, no lame after-rattle sounds when firing.

 

The screws that hold the solenoid to the mount have to be exactly the right length. They have to screw all the way in, but not touching the windings (covered in blue mylar sheet). Use small washers as needed. Even with screws fully tightened, I could still slip a piece of paper in-between.

 

EDIT: I un-did some of that above (as it seemed louder before, and a slight after-rattle-sound developed after-all). Assembly still mounted in lower cabinet (where we can hear it) but back to "longer throw, pick-up speed" at original 7mm of 10mm possible. Also completely vertical (I think reduces friction of hammer for max speed).

 

Now, seems loud (I can hear it over the table's music) . One "hit sound" and no after-rattle. I'm calling it done.

Edited by Tesla, Yesterday, 12:42 AM.